2011 (1995) Ford F150 Baja
Started by Japanscaledriver, Jul 15 2011 09:48 AM
52 replies to this topic
#26
Posted 10 August 2011 - 06:01 PM
i had the original,
its a good truck, if your using it offroad i recommend at least adding a manta ray ball diff to the rear end to improve wheel spin.
tamiya discontinued all the other goodies for the ta chassis years ago, but if you can grab a aluminum motor mount do so.
other then adding bearings and a rear diff its a great basher.
its a good truck, if your using it offroad i recommend at least adding a manta ray ball diff to the rear end to improve wheel spin.
tamiya discontinued all the other goodies for the ta chassis years ago, but if you can grab a aluminum motor mount do so.
other then adding bearings and a rear diff its a great basher.
#27
Posted 10 August 2011 - 11:06 PM
this one has the manta ball diff in the rear.
as an SC truck, this rolls way too easily when turning with any speed... but can be fun.
as an SC truck, this rolls way too easily when turning with any speed... but can be fun.
#28
Posted 11 August 2011 - 12:07 AM
The original one has a ball diff in the rear too.this one has the manta ball diff in the rear.
Put the DF01 buggy lower wishbones, DF03 dogbones (these have steel balls on the ends, DF01 has plastic), and DF01 or DF03 turnbuckle upper and steering links to make it handle corners better. The kit damper towers will still work with the longer suspension arms, but you may need 65mm long dampers to get the right ride height. Sort of turns it into a 4WD stadium truck with the wheels outside of the gaurds. This is what I did to mine, and it handles great.as an SC truck, this rolls way too easily when turning with any speed... but can be fun.

Don't forget to toss the kit pinion and fit a steel one!!
#29
Posted 11 August 2011 - 04:22 AM
The original one has a ball diff in the rear too.
Put the DF01 buggy lower wishbones, DF03 dogbones (these have steel balls on the ends, DF01 has plastic), and DF01 or DF03 turnbuckle upper and steering links to make it handle corners better. The kit damper towers will still work with the longer suspension arms, but you may need 65mm long dampers to get the right ride height. Sort of turns it into a 4WD stadium truck with the wheels outside of the gaurds. This is what I did to mine, and it handles great.
Don't forget to toss the kit pinion and fit a steel one!!
I knew you couldn't leave that out
TA-Mark you are a flippin legend around here IMO. I dig your wide track F150 too, that is exactly what I will be doing when my young bloke gets tired of going slow or I just get itchy Tamiya box wrench syndrome
@Japanscaledriver, this one will crawl before she flies so I'm not worried about the narrow track initially. Thanks for the incentive buddy.
#30
Posted 11 August 2011 - 04:36 PM
Do you have a picture of this with a body on it? but how durable would this be as opposed to a 2wd traxxas slash?
The original one has a ball diff in the rear too.
Put the DF01 buggy lower wishbones, DF03 dogbones (these have steel balls on the ends, DF01 has plastic), and DF01 or DF03 turnbuckle upper and steering links to make it handle corners better. The kit damper towers will still work with the longer suspension arms, but you may need 65mm long dampers to get the right ride height. Sort of turns it into a 4WD stadium truck with the wheels outside of the gaurds. This is what I did to mine, and it handles great.
Don't forget to toss the kit pinion and fit a steel one!!
subrau brat
#31
Posted 30 August 2011 - 12:20 PM
Well mine arrived late yesterday so let the fun begin.
This is a 4 colour box art paint scheme and I have decided to do this first. I have done plenty of 2 colour schemes and I have always used masking tape and never had any trouble like bleeds.
Would liquid mask be better given the added difficulty or should I stick with tape, boom boom. There are plenty of succesfully painted originals on here so I would be interested to know how people have achieved best results?
Having said that there are plenty of originals on here, I have also noticed that nobody has posted a re-release F150 in their showrooms and 58495 doesn't even appear in the model database yet
I'm thinking this re-re might be a bit of a slow mover, any thoughts?
This is a 4 colour box art paint scheme and I have decided to do this first. I have done plenty of 2 colour schemes and I have always used masking tape and never had any trouble like bleeds.
Would liquid mask be better given the added difficulty or should I stick with tape, boom boom. There are plenty of succesfully painted originals on here so I would be interested to know how people have achieved best results?
Having said that there are plenty of originals on here, I have also noticed that nobody has posted a re-release F150 in their showrooms and 58495 doesn't even appear in the model database yet
#32
Posted 30 August 2011 - 12:38 PM
58495 doesn't even appear in the model database yet
It's on there now
I think this one musta fell off the shelf into production, it's not even a recognised part number on Tamiya.com, only the US site
It also went under the radar for the new car thread; http://www.tamiyaclu...?...st&p=412876
FOR AVATAR INFO CLICK HERE FOR HOW TO ENTER PHOTO COMPS CLICK HERE
FOR PHOTOS IN FORUMS CLICK HERE
#37
Posted 22 January 2012 - 03:58 AM
Hello all I have this kit delivered from the shop now. I'd like to see your news and more pics specialy alternative body paintings. I have bought alu motor mount and bearing rubber sealed. Thanks.
Hi, user rides is a great place to start
http://www.tamiyaclu...ides.asp?id=167
#38
Posted 30 January 2012 - 09:08 AM
Hello all Tamiyaers 
To chassis:
I'd like to ask you before I will start to build up the chassis of this truck. Do you have any recommendations what to do differently from the included manual ? I've read something about front dumpers (they are too low). What modifications (preferable DIY) do you recommend to do as MUST before I start ? I've made an order of rubber sealed bearings and alu motor mount for now.
To body:
I have an idea to make a first layer with silver paint (just back rims and spare wheel rim), I think it is easier to mask off these rims outside than inside. Than I will continude with black...
Thank you for answers.
To chassis:
I'd like to ask you before I will start to build up the chassis of this truck. Do you have any recommendations what to do differently from the included manual ? I've read something about front dumpers (they are too low). What modifications (preferable DIY) do you recommend to do as MUST before I start ? I've made an order of rubber sealed bearings and alu motor mount for now.
To body:
I have an idea to make a first layer with silver paint (just back rims and spare wheel rim), I think it is easier to mask off these rims outside than inside. Than I will continude with black...
Thank you for answers.
Tamiya TA-02T Ford F-150 #58495 / Losi 1:24 Trail Trekke
#40
Posted 30 January 2012 - 02:18 PM
That is, would be nice to know "how-to" prevent from this issue before I complete that dampers.To chassis: This thread covers the important stuff I think. The dampers are fine but the body will foul on the front of the front tyres.
First option how to modify the dampers (shocks). - I prefer this
Second option how to modify the dampers (shocks).
And what are the best alu hop ups dampers to replace ?
Tamiya TA-02T Ford F-150 #58495 / Losi 1:24 Trail Trekke
#41
Posted 09 February 2012 - 11:30 PM
I know it's a Chevy shell, but the chassis mods work for either body - I recommend going with Hummer suspension parts for a little extra width and MUCH better handling...
http://www.tamiyaclu...a...752&id=1363
It's a few years old now, but at the time it was the only way I could get a proper Stadium truck!
sTeVE
http://www.tamiyaclu...a...752&id=1363
It's a few years old now, but at the time it was the only way I could get a proper Stadium truck!
sTeVE
__________ ___ __ _
Steve Goss - Simple things should be simple, complex things should be possible
__________ ___ __ _
Steve Goss - Simple things should be simple, complex things should be possible
__________ ___ __ _
#43
Posted 10 February 2012 - 02:21 AM
I know it's a Chevy shell, but the chassis mods work for either body - I recommend going with Hummer suspension parts for a little extra width and MUCH better handling...
http://www.tamiyaclu...a...752&id=1363
It's a few years old now, but at the time it was the only way I could get a proper Stadium truck!
sTeVE
Hi there, can u please pm me where you got those arms from? And what drive shafts did you use? Cheers, Dave
#44
Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:37 PM
Hi there, can u please pm me where you got those arms from? And what drive shafts did you use? Cheers, Dave
I'm going wide track on my F-150 also but I would prefer to keep with Tamiya parts on this one. Very interested here. @ redzone, I'm keen to know what your up to over there if you are doing the same
#45
Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:47 PM
I have been looking into these more. I currently have a lot of stuff that was build pre 90s. I was thinking of doing one of these up. The price is right for them. I was wondering if you can put hottter modified or brushless motors in these and if they can take the abuse?
Thanks
OSR
Thanks
OSR
#46
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:08 PM
I have been looking into these more. I currently have a lot of stuff that was build pre 90s. I was thinking of doing one of these up. The price is right for them. I was wondering if you can put hottter modified or brushless motors in these and if they can take the abuse?
Thanks
OSR
I can't see why not, there are plenty of pumped up TA-02's out there. Wide track all the way if you want go fast though. The COG with the truck body and kit wheels / tyres is a bit too high even for a silver can.
I'm thinking either Manta Ray arms and driveshafts with buggy wheels and tyres or Hummer arms and driveshafts with kit wheels and F-350 Hi Lift tyres.
#47
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:18 PM
I can't see why not, there are plenty of pumped up TA-02's out there. Wide track all the way if you want go fast though. The COG with the truck body and kit wheels / tyres is a bit too high even for a silver can.
I'm thinking either Manta Ray arms and driveshafts with buggy wheels and tyres or Hummer arms and driveshafts with kit wheels and F-350 Hi Lift tyres.
Maybe we chould start a thread on pumped up hop-uped TA02??? I would love to see some. I am not big into Fords never have been but I could see a lot of different bodies on this chassis! Thommo you wan to start the thread? I really don't wan to take away from this guys original thread?
OSR
#48
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:31 PM
Maybe we chould start a thread on pumped up hop-uped TA02??? I would love to see some. I am not big into Fords never have been but I could see a lot of different bodies on this chassis! Thommo you wan to start the thread? I really don't wan to take away from this guys original thread?
OSR
OK. I tried a lexan brat shell on mine last night and the wheelbase is spot on for starters. Good thinking OSR, I'm on it
#49
Posted 11 February 2012 - 07:28 AM
I'm going wide track on my F-150 also but I would prefer to keep with Tamiya parts on this one. Very interested here. @ redzone, I'm keen to know what your up to over there if you are doing the same
Not quite the same here, i'm interested in longer arms for my TA02W onroad cars
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