82 replies to this topic

[shenlonco]

That looks a lot better than I thought it would. GREAT job!

Steve

THANKS
Still conimplating on the white or black wheels...white says Happy black says mean..... what do you guy's think looks better?

[AutoCuriose]

Looks stunning - love it!

I'd say keep the white wheels

[gazwilts]

as a design i think it looks awful, sorry i dont mean no offence to anyone, its great for the kids etc, im sure theres a huge market for it, but for me that gap under the shell when on the chassis, the wheelbase and the whole look of it is very poor from tamiya and i didnt mention all the holes in the body yet, im quite shocked actually, i dont even think nikko would be seen dead releasing somthing that bad

[mr crispy]

Great build thread shenlonco, thanks for posting this. Loving your lime green paint job, nice, simple and LOUD just like a beach buggy should be

But I have to say Im also very dissapointed with how the SR looks on the DT-02 chassis. Didnt someone in Tamiyas R&D department notice that it just doesnt fit? The front axle is at least 1-1.5 inches too far forward. That just makes the wide stance appear even wider.... and this is coming from someone that loves his HB2010. I've been hoping they would release the SR on the DT-02 but its just too far off the mark for me. I can live with holes the in bodywork and gaps between the chassis but this is taking the mick! Im really P'd off by just how bad it looks

I dont even think seeing it running will help this little fella.

[shenlonco]

Great build thread shenlonco, thanks for posting this. Loving your lime green paint job, nice, simple and LOUD just like a beach buggy should be

But I have to say Im also very dissapointed with how the SR looks on the DT-02 chassis. Didnt someone in Tamiyas R&D department notice that it just doesnt fit? The front axle is at least 1-1.5 inches too far forward. That just makes the wide stance appear even wider.... and this is coming from someone that loves his HB2010. I've been hoping they would release the SR on the DT-02 but its just too far off the mark for me. I can live with holes the in bodywork and gaps between the chassis but this is taking the mick! Im really P'd off by just how bad it looks

I dont even think seeing it running will help this little fella.

Yes it's to bad it really is nice I think it's better looking in person... BUT like others said the front wheels are just to far farward for this buggy that's what makes it look stupid.... At least tamiya could have made new A Arms for the front that pushed back the front wheels like a half inch or more!!!

[pastimesteve]

Yes it's to bad it really is nice I think it's better looking in person... BUT like others said the front wheels are just to far farward for this buggy that's what makes it look stupid.... At least tamiya could have made new A Arms for the front that pushed back the front wheels like a half inch or more!!!

One way to fix this some is to swap some front Blitzer a-arms and use spacers to bring the wheels back a fair bit. Just keep in mind, you'll need new steering rods and camber adjustment rods because the arms are narrower than the DT02 arms.

Steve

[KyoshoTomahawk-SRB-Dan]

One way to fix this some is to swap some front Blitzer a-arms and use spacers to bring the wheels back a fair bit. Just keep in mind, you'll need new steering rods and camber adjustment rods because the arms are narrower than the DT02 arms.

Steve

Hey Steve Thanks for the Info

I Lurve the SandRover

But Everyone on TC who wants to build one is going to have to do Sooo Much
Extra Work Just to make the thing Right ..Dear Me !

Side Panels Fill Holes Sort out Shok Clearance/Travel Fix Front Wheel Reach (Thanks Steve)New Proper Scale DuneBuggy Wheels
(The Black ones look mean but you know they are just not right) too bigg and too Plasticey

I mean No Offence whatsoever to anyone Who has Built one , All builds I have seen so far are to a very High Standard,
My Problem is You Wait for something for Soo long, looking at all the originals you cannot afford (£400 Quid Super Champ Body Parts Set Anyone!!???)
and then when I find out from TC that the RERE SandRover is Here,,
I must Say I am filled with dismay at this Poor Effort from Tamiya

I read somewhere they have an excess of DT02 Chassis ? to Shift at the Warehouse,,, It Seem's It must be True.

So I Guess I will just Buy the Re Re Rover Bodyshell When I Can and then stick it onto my Kyosho Tommie Rolling Chassis
(This Idea given to me when I was looking through the TC Tomahawk Galleries last night, one of the members already did this and WoWoWow Nice)

I might even think about something like _miga_'s Yello StreetRacer Scorcher on the Ta04 TRF Chassis for a SandRover build or maybe I Just Got Rover Fevverrr
Is a Street Racing Dune Buggy Just too ??WRONG!??
heee

Kind regards from Dan
KyoshoTomahawk-SRB-Dan
If i did anything wrong u can tell me cos I just joined so I don't kno all da rules Cheers,,,,

[B.M.T.]

I have a thought.... The pairing of one SR2011 body and a M06R in long wheelbase mode, modded with NuFrog rear axles, WW2 upright parts to allow stub axles and olde 1.5" rims and some Sand Tyres Unlimiteds rolled under there.

I happen to have a M06R... and all the other bits sans body.

[mr crispy]

Yep I was thinking get the body and stick it on an M chassis... maybe i'll wait till someone else tries it first

[B.M.T.]

So I got my arm twisted today from a friend in Bendigo to do a shared order on a pair of these.....

[Carty]

mine arrived this morning from Gold star(thanks guys), already given its top coat of orange (thanks to the great october weather). Really pleased with this as although its different to the original it still manages to capture the spirit and evoke the memories for me of the glory days of rc.
Strange that the only place I could find with the sand rover in stock was gold star

[B.M.T.]

We're getting ours from Tower. I know they are $40 more than the Japan based sellers (they were for the HB), but same as last time, too inpatient

[Carty]

went uk sourced as well, always had good service from the shop keeper and prices are always keen

[Carty]

Mine all finished, set of bearings, b3 shocks alround and a peak raven 25t motor, goes great

[shenlonco]

Mine all finished, set of bearings, b3 shocks alround and a peak raven 25t motor, goes great

Very nice!!
Are the B4 shocks the exact same lenth as the stock ones from the kit?

[lindorf]

Im hoping get my from LMS tom already ordered enough parts sink a ship lol

[Carty]

Very nice!!
Are the B4 shocks the exact same lenth as the stock ones from the kit?

went with b3 shocks as i had them spare and they were only a couple of mm longer, b4 shocks maybe a little longer

[shenlonco]

went with b3 shocks as i had them spare and they were only a couple of mm longer, b4 shocks maybe a little longer

Ok thanks... Reason why i ask is my brother in law ordered 3racing ones for the holiday buggy and the oil in them was way to thick and the springs where not to good he actually put the stock ones on because they felt much better.

Here it is we did some running and racing today!

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[Carty]

Ok thanks... Reason why i ask is my brother in law ordered 3racing ones for the holiday buggy and the oil in them was way to thick and the springs where not to good he actually put the stock ones on because they felt much better.

Here it is we did some running and racing today!

last time i had 3 racing shocks on my hb 2010 they came with extra pistons 2-3 holes the ones fitted were single hole and stiff, so open them up and change them then refil with 30ish weight oil and off you go, they work a treat

[VTRSP1]

Been awhile since i last update this thread....n my oh my...... Since when did my build become someone else build thread?

Anyway..... Got around to change the bevel gears to spline and narrow down the width of it.....but was met with afew small teething problems.... Will have to go look thur again to find some solutions......

Photos will take over now.......





Together with the HB2010


As some might notice....i din post much photos on how to narrow the width, thats bcos its covered in another thread, interested, search " how to narrow HB2010 width" should get you the thread.....

Updated... The link in here
http://www.tamiyaclu...mp;#entry416027

[VTRSP1]

following comment from fellow member, donut, i swap the front arm from E2 to E3, and it does bring the front wheel further back afew mm....

photos....

E2 compare to E3


before



after



with this changes... it was easier to mount the shocks.....

will try to put more time into this

thanks for looking

[donut]

Finally got to work on my Sand Rover and followed your instructions on how to bring the wheels in. Only things I did different were:

- trimmed the front shock towers so they don't extend past the hood of the body
- fabricated an additional shock tower so I could cover up the holes on the hood and use extra DF-03ra shocks I had in my spares box
- trimmed the rear screw pins instead of drilling holes in the chassis
- used washers instead of spacers and installed the front uprights as far back the A-arms as possible







Now to cover that horrible gap between the chassis and body.

[bromvw]

Finally got to work on my Sand Rover and followed your instructions on how to bring the wheels in. Only things I did different were:

- trimmed the front shock towers so they don't extend past the hood of the body
- fabricated an additional shock tower so I could cover up the holes on the hood and use extra DF-03ra shocks I had in my spares box
- trimmed the rear screw pins instead of drilling holes in the chassis
- used washers instead of spacers and installed the front uprights as far back the A-arms as possible







Now to cover that horrible gap between the chassis and body.

I've being giving the Sand Rover a look as my next project . I also think the gap between the body and chassis looks wrong . My thinking is to make some side pods in a similar way do how i did them on my Funco Champ ie balsa shaped to profile then covered in styrene sheet . I would think that these could be screwed through the tub sides so they are permanantly fixed in place . this would make them quite strong as the composit method is very rigid . i'd also like to mod the shell to make it more like a Mayers Manx but i'am still working on just how i'll do that .

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[wolfdogstinkus]

Been awhile since i last update this thread....n my oh my...... Since when did my build become someone else build thread?

Sorry guys, don't mean to interfere, not sure what the forum etiquette is on this but I have seen other threads that have been "hi-jacked" much to the displeasure of the original poster.

Great pictures and builds from everyone though.

[VTRSP1]

Finally got to work on my Sand Rover and followed your instructions on how to bring the wheels in. Only things I did different were:

- trimmed the front shock towers so they don't extend past the hood of the body
- fabricated an additional shock tower so I could cover up the holes on the hood and use extra DF-03ra shocks I had in my spares box
- trimmed the rear screw pins instead of drilling holes in the chassis
- used washers instead of spacers and installed the front uprights as far back the A-arms as possible







Now to cover that horrible gap between the chassis and body.

Nicely done on the front shock bracket donut, i like ur idea....
I am also currently in the progress of covering up the holes..... what are you gonna do about the rear?
Now with E3, the wheels is sitting much better right?
I got a idea from another fellow member here on how to cover up the gaps, but as usually, did it with a little changes here n there
Will post the pixs later