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hotshot build tips


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#51 MadInventor

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 01:33 PM

alright james thanks for the advice.
I never greased the thrust bearings (did think about it) because the manual never mentioned it i assumed they would,nt require it.
im i best back tracking and greasing them up?
cheers Karl


Oh yes. As the motor applies power, the bevel gears try to force themselves apart, effectively trying to squash that thrust bearing at the same time as rotating it. Without grease it will get worn out very quickly, and they're about £5 each to replace.

#52 FLEXUS

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 03:02 PM

Oh yes. As the motor applies power, the bevel gears try to force themselves apart, effectively trying to squash that thrust bearing at the same time as rotating it. Without grease it will get worn out very quickly, and they're about £5 each to replace.


i took the boxes apart last night and greased both bearings with moly grease. <_<

Quick build update...

Im still doin the driver detailing but inbetween coats i,ve assembled.

both shocks

rear suspension crank

roll cage and roof

wheels and tyres

i,ve got pictures but need to try that imageshack to upload them.might try tonight.

Karl

#53 FLEXUS

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 10:07 PM

hi guys im just trying to upload some pictures of my hotshot build.

here goes

snv36724.jpg
snv36733.jpg
snv36756.jpg



i,ll upload more if this works as im not sure how to do it. :unsure:

cheers Karl

#54 FLEXUS

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Posted 30 November 2011 - 08:25 PM

the build so far... :(

snv36769.jpg
snv36770.jpg

ready to try out check the radio gear

#55 GregM

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 12:00 PM

im having problems connecting my ESC battery plug into my receiver when the other two channels are plugged in.
the problem is the red tamiya plug is too thick to fit in.
i know your ESC is different to mine but will it have the same size red bat plug?
i had to trim the ESC channel plug to get it to fit my reciever as you mentioned in my post.
did you have to trim the red battery plug?

If using the 4 separate batteries all 3 plugs fit but space is an issue as you said
Cheers karl

Some receivers like your Acoms GR-24 do have really tight sockets. Please try to trim the red plug, as well as the receiver plastic case, if necessary. :(
The TEU-302BK speedo that I am using for most of my cars doesn't feature that red plug, as its built in BEC will power the receiver just by using the throttle plug.
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#56 FLEXUS

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 12:27 PM

[quote name='GregM' date='Dec 1 2011, 12:00 PM' post='438316']
Some receivers like your Acoms GR-24 do have really tight sockets. Please try to trim the red plug, as well as the receiver plastic case, if necessary. :(
The TEU-302BK speedo that I am using for most of my cars doesn't feature that red plug, as its built in BEC will power the receiver just by using the throttle plug.
[/qumate.

cheers for that gregm. :D

I was thinking of trying to trim the red plug.
I thought buying the car as a package the plugs would all fit nicely in the reciever without modifying them.
Thanks for the advice mate.

#57 FLEXUS

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 11:05 AM

hi guys with a bit of trimming of the red esc plug i managed to get all three plugs into the receiever..

and hey presto i,ve now got a running hotshot.(on ramps) :)
the esc was easy to set as i,ve read on here they can be tricky to do,although the acoms manual is a bit vague.(trying to set the failsafe). <_<

once its fully built is there any kind of run in procedure i need to follow to bed the motor and gears in?

cheers

#58 FLEXUS

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 08:24 PM

almost done now just the body to trim,paint and sticker up.

plus my underguard i,ve just bought.(£32 for a piece of plastic and 4 screws) :lol:



snv36829.jpg

snv36830.jpg

is the turning circle quite poor on the hotshot as there does not look to be a lot of steering movement?

also what does steering ATV stand for?

cheers Karl

#59 GregM

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 10:02 PM

Sorry, I don't have an answer for your last questions...

...but it's great to see your building progress! You have even done the tire lettering. :)
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#60 markbt73

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 10:11 PM

Yes, the Hotshot's turning circle is awful. You can improve it slightly by using the inner holes on the front hubs for the tie rods instead of the outer holes.

ATV on the transmitter stands for Adjustable Travel Volume. Meaning, how far does the servo move compared to how far the wheel is turned. Turn it all the way up for a Hotshot, since you need all the steering you can get.

Car looks great, by the way...

#61 FLEXUS

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 10:57 PM

Yes, the Hotshot's turning circle is awful. You can improve it slightly by using the inner holes on the front hubs for the tie rods instead of the outer holes.

ATV on the transmitter stands for Adjustable Travel Volume. Meaning, how far does the servo move compared to how far the wheel is turned. Turn it all the way up for a Hotshot, since you need all the steering you can get.

Car looks great, by the way...


thanks for the answers guys.

yeah im really pleased with how the build has gone so far considering its my first. :D

i,ve done my homework on this forum and tamiya 101 plus the advice of you guys has really helped and pointed me in the right direction.

gonna give the tyres another coat tomoz then i can have a test drive and set the steering up before i begin the body.(more help will probably be required). :)

steering ATV is mentioned in the acoms manual but it is very vague at explaining things. :)


out of curiosity how did you manage to fit the 4AA battery cradle in the old days.(if needed) as there is hardly any room in the radio compartment? :unsure:

cheers Karl

#62 HunterZero

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 01:00 AM

gonna give the tyres another coat tomoz then i can have a test drive and set the steering up before i begin the body.(more help will probably be required). :unsure:


If you can resist it, don't run the car outside until you finish the body, so you can enjoy a minty fresh build car... And then thrash it! :) :P

Plenty of tips on the site for painting the body. Here's a summary...

1. There is a clear overspray film over the body. This is why the body looks slightly cloudy. Remember to remove this film after you cut and spray, but before you put the decals on!
2. It doesn't really matter if you paint first then cut, or cut first then paint. But if you paint first, you have to be careful when cutting to not damage the paint, so I recommend cut first, then paint.
3. Use paint for polycarbonate, not normal model paint. Eg, Tamiya PS spray.
4. When painting, don't try to paint it in one thick coat. Use several thin coats, especially when painting with metallics. Wait 15 mins between coats. If you spray too much on at once, the paint will run and look ugly. The rear wing is tricky to paint, it will take many careful coats to get the paint into the sides of the rear wing.
5. When cutting out the body, there are couple of techniques... You can use a combination of the two. Small sharp scissors are the best approach around the complicated front of the body.
* Sharp scissors. Using large scissors for the stragiht bits, and curved polycarbonate scissors for the more intricate bits
* Hobby blade/exacto blade/scalpel. Scribe once along the line you want to cut on the outside of the body, then bend the polycarbonate back and forth until it can be snapped or torn off. This requires a steady hand, but gives great results.
6. Holes for body posts and the antenna are best cut with a polycarbanate body hole reamer or hand drill. use a needle to mark the center of the hole before you start.

Hot Shot decals are not difficult to put on, but note that the '4WD' decal on the rear wing is traditionally off-centre. Make sure to press the wing decal into the detail of the wing as you lay the decal down, to avoid a gap being left under the decal where dirt will get in.

If all else fails, you can buy a pre-finished Hot Shot body! :D

out of curiosity how did you manage to fit the 4AA battery cradle in the old days.(if needed) as there is hardly any room in the radio compartment? :)


The Hot Shot was one of the first Tamiya cars that required BEC. You could not run the car with the 4 AA receiver battery pack. It came with a BEC voltage regulator unit to power the receiver directly from the mechanical speed controller (even a non-BEC receiver). You snipped the plug off the battery back and twisted that onto the regulator wires.

- James

#63 FLEXUS

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:21 PM

If you can resist it, don't run the car outside until you finish the body, so you can enjoy a minty fresh build car... And then thrash it! :unsure: :P

Plenty of tips on the site for painting the body. Here's a summary...

1. There is a clear overspray film over the body. This is why the body looks slightly cloudy. Remember to remove this film after you cut and spray, but before you put the decals on!
2. It doesn't really matter if you paint first then cut, or cut first then paint. But if you paint first, you have to be careful when cutting to not damage the paint, so I recommend cut first, then paint.
3. Use paint for polycarbonate, not normal model paint. Eg, Tamiya PS spray.
4. When painting, don't try to paint it in one thick coat. Use several thin coats, especially when painting with metallics. Wait 15 mins between coats. If you spray too much on at once, the paint will run and look ugly. The rear wing is tricky to paint, it will take many careful coats to get the paint into the sides of the rear wing.
5. When cutting out the body, there are couple of techniques... You can use a combination of the two. Small sharp scissors are the best approach around the complicated front of the body.
* Sharp scissors. Using large scissors for the stragiht bits, and curved polycarbonate scissors for the more intricate bits
* Hobby blade/exacto blade/scalpel. Scribe once along the line you want to cut on the outside of the body, then bend the polycarbonate back and forth until it can be snapped or torn off. This requires a steady hand, but gives great results.
6. Holes for body posts and the antenna are best cut with a polycarbanate body hole reamer or hand drill. use a needle to mark the center of the hole before you start.

Hot Shot decals are not difficult to put on, but note that the '4WD' decal on the rear wing is traditionally off-centre. Make sure to press the wing decal into the detail of the wing as you lay the decal down, to avoid a gap being left under the decal where dirt will get in.

If all else fails, you can buy a pre-finished Hot Shot body! :D
The Hot Shot was one of the first Tamiya cars that required BEC. You could not run the car with the 4 AA receiver battery pack. It came with a BEC voltage regulator unit to power the receiver directly from the mechanical speed controller (even a non-BEC receiver). You snipped the plug off the battery back and twisted that onto the regulator wires.

- James


wow what a detailed reply :) thanks for the advice.

i was just gonna have a test run in the house.now i,ve spent so long building it and detailing it dont think i want to get it dirty. :)

i,ve already bought a body reamer(advised on here) plus the red PS spray paint.

im planning on spraying it in the spare room but inside a big box due to the weather this time of year.(windows wide open)

as for the decals i,ve put on so far i,ve used soapy water and a cottan wool bud to press them down while drying using the hairdryer(worked good so far on the small ones)

where sells the pre-finished hotshot body might get one for display purposes?

cheers Karl

#64 HunterZero

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:12 AM

where sells the pre-finished hotshot body might get one for display purposes?


Check with seller jr-rc.

- James

#65 Cozzer

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 02:16 AM

thanks for the answers guys.

yeah im really pleased with how the build has gone so far considering its my first. :P

i,ve done my homework on this forum and tamiya 101 plus the advice of you guys has really helped and pointed me in the right direction.

gonna give the tyres another coat tomoz then i can have a test drive and set the steering up before i begin the body.(more help will probably be required). :lol:

steering ATV is mentioned in the acoms manual but it is very vague at explaining things. :P
out of curiosity how did you manage to fit the 4AA battery cradle in the old days.(if needed) as there is hardly any room in the radio compartment? :lol:

cheers Karl


Alright mate! i see your build is going well. im a little behind you by the look of it. What paint did you use for your tyres? its a nice detail, i just wonder how long it will be before it cracks. i still have not bought a controller or even a servo, i really need to get that sorted soon. what servo do you have? was it a good fit. ill get my photos posted soon. i can never seem to find the time. Keep up the good work.

#66 FLEXUS

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 06:29 PM

Alright mate! What paint did you use for your tyres? its a nice detail, i just wonder how long it will be before it cracks. i still have not bought a controller or even a servo, i really need to get that sorted soon. what servo do you have? was it a good fit.



hi mate i used this pen. http://thumbs1.ebays...VHQl-VQ/140.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cbf6e6278

i read the reviews and everybody said it was upto the job.hopefully it,ll last if not i,ll just do them again...
i bought mine of amazon it was only £2.50. :P

the controller and servo came with the car but this is mine. http://www.modelspor...p2402system.jpg

yeah it all fitted ok although with both the servo and ESC throttle plugs in(channel 1 and 2) i had to trim the ESC battery plug as it was too thick to fit in as well.
the acoms receiver is tiny.

hows your build coming along,where are you up too?

im gonna paint the spot lights tonight although the tamiya acrylic paint is not the best to brush with as it dries very quickly. :lol:

#67 FLEXUS

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:16 PM

hi guys i,ve just fitted the wheels to my car and i,ve noticed there is a bit off play(especially the rear)if you grab both rears say you can pull them apart by say 1mm per side.
is this normal? :)
the play is coming from the wheel axle(MR14).i,ve checked i,ve got the drive shafts(front and rear).
tightening the wheels more will not help as the play is between the axle head(where drive shaft sits and the BD7 2x10mm shaft.
with the wheel off you can feel/see the play on the axle if you pull/push it.
is this normal? :unsure:
im using bearings all round as well.
also one rear and front wheel look like they are not running as true as the other 2 wheels as well will this cause problems? :unsure:

cheers Karl

#68 Cozzer

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 02:37 AM

hi mate i used this pen. http://thumbs1.ebays...VHQl-VQ/140.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cbf6e6278

i read the reviews and everybody said it was upto the job.hopefully it,ll last if not i,ll just do them again...
i bought mine of amazon it was only £2.50. :)

the controller and servo came with the car but this is mine. http://www.modelspor...p2402system.jpg

yeah it all fitted ok although with both the servo and ESC throttle plugs in(channel 1 and 2) i had to trim the ESC battery plug as it was too thick to fit in as well.
the acoms receiver is tiny.

hows your build coming along,where are you up too?

im gonna paint the spot lights tonight although the tamiya acrylic paint is not the best to brush with as it dries very quickly. :unsure:


That pen is great, i had no idea. ill hunt one down tomorrow.

So i ordered this today, i have no idea if its good or not, but for $11 its worth a punt.
http://www.hobbypart...rvo-mg996r.html
I also ordered a controller, for the price its not going to make or break me.
http://www.hobbypart...rradio-lcd.html
hopefully it will all work out.

My build has ground to a halt but the end is in sight, i want to take my time with the body work and get it right. I just read your other post about your wheels, ill be interested to hear what advice you get. Good luck and thanks again for the info.

#69 FLEXUS

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:51 PM

That pen is great, i had no idea. ill hunt one down tomorrow.

So i ordered this today, i have no idea if its good or not, but for $11 its worth a punt.
http://www.hobbypart...rvo-mg996r.html
I also ordered a controller, for the price its not going to make or break me.
http://www.hobbypart...rradio-lcd.html
hopefully it will all work out.

My build has ground to a halt but the end is in sight, i want to take my time with the body work and get it right. I just read your other post about your wheels, ill be interested to hear what advice you get. Good luck and thanks again for the info.


alright cozzer for $11 that servo looks fine.
its probably better than mine acoms as the servo plug looks to be made of brass and is already threaded as the acoms is plastic and needs to be tapped using a self tapping screw.
the tx looks good as well although i prefer the stick type(from when i was a kid).
let us know if you have a bit off play in your axles as described in my previous post.
not had no reply's to it as of yet. :)
had a little go in the house mate and its pretty fast.
just left two lines of black rubber on the kitchen floor the mrs is goin sick. :D

#70 metroplex

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 05:54 PM

hi guys i,ve finally bought a hotshot 25 years after first wanting one as a teenager.
had a nosey in a model shop while shopping with the mrs and spotted a boomerang which was the last one(display model).
after trying to find one i settled on a hotshot from modelsport uk
just wondered is there any tips/special tools etc or things to watch out for when i start my build?
i,ve bought the car bearing set accoms 2.4 plus a 4500 battery red paint(just ordered the acrylic paints required as the shop never mentioned them)
any help appreciated cheers karl


Regarding tools, I really recommend Tamiya´s eight piece R/C tool set (#74085, can be seen here: http://www.tamiyausa...oduct-id=74085). It´s a bit pricey, but the tools are of very high quality and are perfect for work on Tamiya models. A must buy!

#71 Cozzer

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:50 PM

alright cozzer for $11 that servo looks fine.
its probably better than mine acoms as the servo plug looks to be made of brass and is already threaded as the acoms is plastic and needs to be tapped using a self tapping screw.
the tx looks good as well although i prefer the stick type(from when i was a kid).
let us know if you have a bit off play in your axles as described in my previous post.
not had no reply's to it as of yet. <_<
had a little go in the house mate and its pretty fast.
just left two lines of black rubber on the kitchen floor the mrs is goin sick. :(


"lines of black rubber on the kitchen floor" ha ha, that made me laugh.
Its funny you prefer the stick type controller from when you were a kid, its the complete oppersite for me. I wanted the wheel because as a kid i had the stick and went through countless bumpers due to me crashing it into every curb i could find. Hopefully im better with the wheel.

im going to try and get the wheels on this weekend if i can find the time, ill let you know if i notice any play in them.

You better start scrubbing that floor.

#72 FLEXUS

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 10:31 PM

"lines of black rubber on the kitchen floor" ha ha, that made me laugh.

You better start scrubbing that floor.


ha ha yeah was scrubbing last night mate. :(
the mrs can not wait for me to finish the build as there,s bits of cars and boxes all over the house.

the play mate seems to be in the axle see if you can pull them once the hubs are on with the drive pins fitted.

i,ve just made a little red flag for my aerial (thats antenna on your side of the pond mate) :P

gonna start the body this weekend not looking forward to cutting it out though. <_<

cheers Karl

#73 MadInventor

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 10:49 PM

ha ha yeah was scrubbing last night mate. :(
the mrs can not wait for me to finish the build as there,s bits of cars and boxes all over the house.

the play mate seems to be in the axle see if you can pull them once the hubs are on with the drive pins fitted.

i,ve just made a little red flag for my aerial (thats antenna on your side of the pond mate) :P

gonna start the body this weekend not looking forward to cutting it out though. <_<

cheers Karl


I've found it helps a lot when body cutting to mark out the cutting line with a felt tip or fine permanent marker on the outside of the shell. Makes it a lot easier than trying to hold the shell up to the light to spot the cut line when you're cutting

HTH

#74 Cozzer

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 10:53 PM

I've found it helps a lot when body cutting to mark out the cutting line with a felt tip or fine permanent marker on the outside of the shell. Makes it a lot easier than trying to hold the shell up to the light to spot the cut line when you're cutting

HTH



Nice tip, ill give that a go myself. im going to test out the dremel on a waste area.

#75 Cozzer

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 10:58 PM

ha ha yeah was scrubbing last night mate. :P
the mrs can not wait for me to finish the build as there,s bits of cars and boxes all over the house.

the play mate seems to be in the axle see if you can pull them once the hubs are on with the drive pins fitted.

i,ve just made a little red flag for my aerial (thats antenna on your side of the pond mate) :)

gonna start the body this weekend not looking forward to cutting it out though. <_<

cheers Karl



Now i want a flag! I call it an aerial as well, im from Northamptonshire, ive been over here for about 8yrs. :)
Im glad to hear your Mrs lets you enjoy having your car parts lying around, mine made me go and buy plastic storage containers to keep "everything tidy." Actually im glad because i have not lost anything which is unlike me. :(



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