M03 Racer Winter Rebuild Thread
Started by Butler, Dec 02 2011 07:01 PM
33 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 02 December 2011 - 07:01 PM
Evening,
I love a rebuild thread with good pics, so thought I'd do one. Granted my subject isn't particularly special, but loads of us have a mini.
A group of us get together every Tuesday to race our M03's outdoors with a make shift track of fire hose and rubber cable protector. We have standardized on kits motor and tyres, but everything else is free.
Below is how my car looks as it had just been raining at the last meet. It been 2 years since I did any real maintenance, not bad as its probably had 50-60eves racing in that time.
Plan is to strip it tonight and list parts I need, order them and build it back up over xmas.
Spec:
M03M Swift Chassis
Mini Cooper Body, colors inspired by skip665's race mini.
Universals
TA03 diff with hard cups.
GPM Shocks
Bearings
Acoms 27Mhz radio gear.
GP3000 NiMH Batt
Comments welcome.
Cheers,
I love a rebuild thread with good pics, so thought I'd do one. Granted my subject isn't particularly special, but loads of us have a mini.
A group of us get together every Tuesday to race our M03's outdoors with a make shift track of fire hose and rubber cable protector. We have standardized on kits motor and tyres, but everything else is free.
Below is how my car looks as it had just been raining at the last meet. It been 2 years since I did any real maintenance, not bad as its probably had 50-60eves racing in that time.
Plan is to strip it tonight and list parts I need, order them and build it back up over xmas.
Spec:
M03M Swift Chassis
Mini Cooper Body, colors inspired by skip665's race mini.
Universals
TA03 diff with hard cups.
GPM Shocks
Bearings
Acoms 27Mhz radio gear.
GP3000 NiMH Batt
Comments welcome.
Cheers,
#3
Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:45 PM
#4
Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:46 PM
#5
Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:49 PM
#6
Posted 02 December 2011 - 09:36 PM
#7
Posted 02 December 2011 - 09:40 PM
Quite surprised that you drive it every week, it "seems" fine. You pick it up, check it over and it "seems" fine, but strip it down and the crud thats in it is unreal, and you notice half the suspension is seized, the steering's notchy. etc etc.
Hoping to gain a bit more suppleness in the handling and hopefully a little more speed from cleaning the bearings and motor.
I think the plastics will go in the dishwasher and the metals in motor cleaner.
Any tips on bearing oil? I only have 3in1, I guess its a little too think.
Hoping to gain a bit more suppleness in the handling and hopefully a little more speed from cleaning the bearings and motor.
I think the plastics will go in the dishwasher and the metals in motor cleaner.
Any tips on bearing oil? I only have 3in1, I guess its a little too think.
#9
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:36 AM
Personally I would just throw those worn bearings in the bin, they usually cost less than a quid each to replace. I always leave the factory grease in them, spraying them out and oiling them won't do much to lubricate them under load or in the long term. They might feel free on the bench but they won't be any more efficient on the track.
David Allen - fiveeight0sixsix.wordpress.com
#11
Posted 03 December 2011 - 08:04 PM
I'll decide later about bearings, but food for thought, thanks.
Found a bent steering ball joint.
Both hubs are notchy due to tiny gravel wedged between the C hub and the steering knuckle.
The front dampers are slightly different lengths
Diff doesn't feel great either. I think it might be too tights.
Both the ESC and receiver were full of dust too.
Strip down done. Plastics and gears are in the dishwasher.
Shell cleaned.
Parts list:
Bearing oil or maybe bearings.
Steering ball joint
Super glue
Tyres and inserts.
Reinforced wheels
Aluminum type for body shell repairs? Is that right?
Found a bent steering ball joint.
Both hubs are notchy due to tiny gravel wedged between the C hub and the steering knuckle.
The front dampers are slightly different lengths
Diff doesn't feel great either. I think it might be too tights.
Both the ESC and receiver were full of dust too.
Strip down done. Plastics and gears are in the dishwasher.
Shell cleaned.
Parts list:
Bearing oil or maybe bearings.
Steering ball joint
Super glue
Tyres and inserts.
Reinforced wheels
Aluminum type for body shell repairs? Is that right?
#12
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:45 PM
I'll decide later about bearings, but food for thought, thanks.
Found a bent steering ball joint.
Both hubs are notchy due to tiny gravel wedged between the C hub and the steering knuckle.
The front dampers are slightly different lengths![]()
Diff doesn't feel great either. I think it might be too tights.
Both the ESC and receiver were full of dust too.
Strip down done. Plastics and gears are in the dishwasher.
Shell cleaned.
Parts list:
Bearing oil or maybe bearings.
Steering ball joint
Super glue
Tyres and inserts.
Reinforced wheels
Aluminum type for body shell repairs? Is that right?
Some people use the aluminium foil tape, it works quite well.
David Allen - fiveeight0sixsix.wordpress.com
#13
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:56 PM
This is awesome! I need to do this. I have an old M03 that I haven't "rebuilt" in years.
I don't race it, but it's been bashed and thrashed forever! There's probably not even oil left in the dampers!
Great idea using the container lid for parts.
I'll be watching your rebuild, and especially your reaction to how much better it drives once completed!
Cheers,
Skottoman
I don't race it, but it's been bashed and thrashed forever! There's probably not even oil left in the dampers!
Great idea using the container lid for parts.
I'll be watching your rebuild, and especially your reaction to how much better it drives once completed!
Cheers,
Skottoman
#14
Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:32 AM
Bagged up all the bits now til xmas and I will build the car back up over that holiday weekend.
Decided to swap over to Tamiya mini short shocks because my 3racing ones are damaged and you can't get spares, like the rods or caps. Got them from europro975 (Tony) and he checked in some missing e clips I needed and the 1 ball connector I needed also. Good man.
Also ordered reinforced wheels, hard inserts and some ali tape.
I have soaked the bearings for now in cleaner, but haven't decided whether they will be refitted or binned yet.
The gears are all still fine. rw steel pinion as new.
Got my hyper 7 to occupy me while I await the build.
http://www.tamiyaclu...showtopic=64395
Decided to swap over to Tamiya mini short shocks because my 3racing ones are damaged and you can't get spares, like the rods or caps. Got them from europro975 (Tony) and he checked in some missing e clips I needed and the 1 ball connector I needed also. Good man.
Also ordered reinforced wheels, hard inserts and some ali tape.
I have soaked the bearings for now in cleaner, but haven't decided whether they will be refitted or binned yet.
The gears are all still fine. rw steel pinion as new.
Got my hyper 7 to occupy me while I await the build.
http://www.tamiyaclu...showtopic=64395
#15
Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:04 AM
Bearings...
Most of the bearings now feel worse than before I soaked them. I reckon the cleaner has washed the grease out, but not the grit. However three of the bearings now feel really nice. One is the TA03 thrust bearing from the ball diff, and the other two have had the seals removed from one side.
None of the bearings feel worn or loose any freeness under load. I think they would clearly support loads much higher then you could create with a tamiya mini on standard tyres. Maybe high spec'd touring cars on sticky tyres might stress them more.
I have removed the seals on one side of the rest of the bearings and soaked them face down. I'll use these with the open face pointing inwards and see what happens. They'll be fine unless the grit gets them. If so I'll order new ones, nothing lost.
Sorry my camera is pants.
Most of the bearings now feel worse than before I soaked them. I reckon the cleaner has washed the grease out, but not the grit. However three of the bearings now feel really nice. One is the TA03 thrust bearing from the ball diff, and the other two have had the seals removed from one side.
None of the bearings feel worn or loose any freeness under load. I think they would clearly support loads much higher then you could create with a tamiya mini on standard tyres. Maybe high spec'd touring cars on sticky tyres might stress them more.
I have removed the seals on one side of the rest of the bearings and soaked them face down. I'll use these with the open face pointing inwards and see what happens. They'll be fine unless the grit gets them. If so I'll order new ones, nothing lost.
Sorry my camera is pants.
#16
Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:22 AM
#17
Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:52 AM
I've more often than not found the same result when washing out bearings - they really feel worse after the grease has gone. the good news that after a hour long soak in a good quality motor oil (5W30 fully synthetic for instance) they feel a lot better. They aren't perfect but still an improvement on their original used state. Worth the effort, especially if you can save buying 20 bearings !
History for last 30 months.. bought too many, not sold enough - current stable 46 EEK
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#18
Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:58 AM
These spin nicely with no lube at all now, so I am certain all the grit is out. I'll just use a tiny drop of oil.
#19
Posted 15 December 2011 - 11:24 AM
Final parts arrived. Can't wait.
Rebuild over holiday weekend. Getting together for some testing on the 27th.
Rebuild over holiday weekend. Getting together for some testing on the 27th.
#20
Posted 25 December 2011 - 10:00 PM
#21
Posted 25 December 2011 - 10:02 PM
Step one, but with a TA03 diff, not the gear diff. I did have it built tight with AW grease. Built it standard this time, hoping it will turn a bit better.
#22
Posted 25 December 2011 - 10:03 PM
#23
Posted 25 December 2011 - 10:04 PM
#24
Posted 25 December 2011 - 10:05 PM
Step2 done. Decided to re use my bearings, with a tiny drop of all. Open faces pointing in.
#25
Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:17 AM
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