Leopard2A6
Started by VTRSP1, Dec 13 2011 08:27 AM
44 replies to this topic
#4
stu22
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Posted 28 February 2012 - 07:09 PM
Wondering how this build is going. Run into any problems or find anything someone else building one should know about?
I just failed to get outbid on one so there's one more thing on my project list. I think I might actually make the time to build the tank though, it's something I always wanted to do.
I just failed to get outbid on one so there's one more thing on my project list. I think I might actually make the time to build the tank though, it's something I always wanted to do.
#5
VTRSP1
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Posted 29 February 2012 - 02:41 AM
Wondering how this build is going. Run into any problems or find anything someone else building one should know about?
I just failed to get outbid on one so there's one more thing on my project list. I think I might actually make the time to build the tank though, it's something I always wanted to do.
actually no, havent had the time to start the build yet.
#6
stu22
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Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:28 AM
actually no, havent had the time to start the build yet.
Can you please start. My kit isn't going to show up for at least a week and I really want someone else to make some mistakes so I don't have to do them myself
#7
gozone
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Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:48 PM
I built one a some time back, and I think it´s hard to make any mistakes building it, as the instructions are very good.
Only thing that was really timeconsuming was painting the thing.
Only thing that was really timeconsuming was painting the thing.
GO FOR IT!!!
#9
VTRSP1
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Posted 05 July 2012 - 04:45 PM
Wondering how this build is going. Run into any problems or find anything someone else building one should know about?
I just failed to get outbid on one so there's one more thing on my project list. I think I might actually make the time to build the tank though, it's something I always wanted to do.
Got this tip and another from fellow tankies,
"watch out for one extra gear that looks very identical to the correct one. Common mistake to install that wrong gear. Roll the gears to see them turn smoothly before you close the gearbox halves"
"don't install any clear parts untill all painting jobs and decals sealed with a flat clear coat. Warning! Clear parts will show fine line cracks when contacted paint solvents. Use blue tack to temporary secure hatches and glides. Paint them separately, when paint dry then glue them or else the wet paint will seep in and freeze the driver sliding hatch"
"one more about the glue. Use the slow drying superglue. Its more tough and resist to shock"
#15
VTRSP1
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Posted 07 July 2012 - 05:07 PM
Got this tip and another from fellow tankies
"watch out for one extra gear that looks very identical to the correct one. Common mistake to install that wrong gear. Roll the gears to see them turn smoothly before you close the gearbox halves"
Look out for this gear, it has a "C" stamped on it, this is the extra gear that you wont need.
"watch out for one extra gear that looks very identical to the correct one. Common mistake to install that wrong gear. Roll the gears to see them turn smoothly before you close the gearbox halves"
Look out for this gear, it has a "C" stamped on it, this is the extra gear that you wont need.
#18
MadInventor
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Posted 08 July 2012 - 09:24 AM
Very interesting and nice clear photos of the build so far. Interesting that the gearbox has 3 differentials in it. This seems to be a bit of an overcomplication in comparison to the transmissions in other tanks and I'm wondering why it's been designed like this. In fact, looking closely at it, it looks like the outermost gears on the first idler shaft are firmly attached with a pin through the shaft at each end, so how does it work ? Am I right in thinking that one motor drives the outermost gears, which in turn drives the outer diffs, and then the other motor applies force to one of the inner shafts connecting the diffs to provide a steering input ?
#19
VTRSP1
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Posted 08 July 2012 - 10:44 AM
Very interesting and nice clear photos of the build so far. Interesting that the gearbox has 3 differentials in it. This seems to be a bit of an overcomplication in comparison to the transmissions in other tanks and I'm wondering why it's been designed like this. In fact, looking closely at it, it looks like the outermost gears on the first idler shaft are firmly attached with a pin through the shaft at each end, so how does it work ? Am I right in thinking that one motor drives the outermost gears, which in turn drives the outer diffs, and then the other motor applies force to one of the inner shafts connecting the diffs to provide a steering input ?
Ya, for Leo, one motor is for the driving action, forward backward, the other motor is for turning.
#21
lee1980
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Posted 10 July 2012 - 12:50 PM
If I ever get a tank this is the one i want really, but how old is it now? wonder if there will ever be any updated tank designs ever.
I think in UK kit alone is about £800 now!!
I think in UK kit alone is about £800 now!!
Thanks
Lee.
Latest Bruiser re-re = awesome build! tank or 3spd truck next...................
Lee.
Latest Bruiser re-re = awesome build! tank or 3spd truck next...................
#25
VTRSP1
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Posted 10 July 2012 - 02:29 PM
Its darn expensive all right, think its the most expensive tank among all Tamiya tank.If I ever get a tank this is the one i want really, but how old is it now? wonder if there will ever be any updated tank designs ever.
I think in UK kit alone is about £800 now!!
This is the latest updated design, that was a 2A5 before this, and a 2A4 or a 1A4...............
Its also the most complicated one.....but its also the most pretty among the other WW2 models.
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