16 replies to this topic

[Leethal Driver]

Having forgotten all about this (literally, it took someone asking if it was still for sale to remind me) I decided the first thing to do was to get a new shell sorted. Bearing in mind this isn't going to be a comp crawler, just a weekend basher I'm not fussed that either option below weighs a bit more than a std shell. Sooooo...

Bashed up Blackfoot shell, nothing major just some road rash along the top of the cab:



or, MP in pretty good condition:



I think the BF is a better fit? I'm going to move the body mounts up into the side of the battery tray to get just enough clearance for full lock on the axles, and also help to fit the body mounts into the length of the shell in between the two wheel arches, currently it's right on the edge at the mo using the stock chassis mounts. Maybe see if I can use some M4 rod to make something a bit stronger perhaps.

[mr crispy]

Looking good so far. I agree the BF shell fits the wheel base better and looks great. I removed the electronics tray from my Scout completely to drop the body shell down further. The battery now rests on the top links behind the steering servo and doesnt fowl the articulation, it's also lowered the COG a lot.

[Leethal Driver]

Cheers Nic. Having looked at it again I'm thinking about cutting a wide slot in the tray to allow it to drop down over the gear, and then using the body mount holes in the chassis plate to fix the electrics tray lower down. Could go a bit lower and drop the tray almost on top of the trans but would need to drill new holes in the chassis plates. Would still leave room for electrics although would need to cut the battery cover mounts off but no biggie. Would like to leave space for an interior if poss and this would help. Only real gripe is that I need to limit the articulation a little I think, either that or mount the body a little higher (the COG which would be offset by dropping the electrics I hope). Prob look at putting a nano lipo on top of the servo as well. Plan to copy your chop job on the tranny mount to get the links inboard too

When you removed your tray, did you take the mounts off at the top of the shock mount brace or have you used spacers to keep the chassis plates same width as they are now?

Can't believe I didn't get round to this sooner, these things are ace and most of the mods are free/cheap

[Leethal Driver]

Something like this - not a great pic but the gear now pops up through the tray with a nice wide slot dremel'd out, and the tray sit just above the trans. Plenty of room left for electrics

[Leethal Driver]

Eeek!



You do wonder - they've managed to fit bearings throughout (at this price point, that's a big +) and failed to stick a couple of splodges of grease in the axle. The mind boggles. Still, nothing some moly can't sort out.

Gonna order up some rubber sealed bearings, replace the steel ones that are subject to the elements.

[mr crispy]

Eeek!

Yep that was my exact same thought when I opened mine up! Wait until you see inside the tranny... It's dryer than the Sahara desert, that will be why it sounds like a bag on spanners in a washing machine And to think I drove mine for a couple of hour long runs like that! Doesn't seem to have done any lasting damage though. Once you lube it up it'll purr like a kitten.

When I removed the tray I used some tubing to space it out again. I like what you've done with dropping it down and cutting the gear hole. It's a better solution I think, maintain the robust design. I had intended to move the mounting points for the top of the shocks outwards, but after running it I decided not to bother as it didn't seem to improve the ride. I've also limited the articulation with rubber tubing on the shock shafts so that the tyres won't rub any body work. Even with this it's still a surprisingly competent crawler.

[Leethal Driver]

Trans and both gearboxes now well lubed, bearings should arrive tomorrow so can rebuild it over the weekend and start looking at the body fitment. Have cut the trans plate to get the links inboard but noticed the stock trans plate is a flimsy bit of work so ordered a Delrin trans plate and some AX10 high clearance links from ST Racing Concepts (only twenty quid odd delivered so keeping costs down for a change ). Unusually for me I did spot before I hit the BIN button that the Axial trans plate has slightly narrower holes in the middle for the AX10 trans housing whereas the Mav has square (equidistant) screw holes so I'll need to flip it round and drill my own holes when it arrives. Good job I spotted it as I was just about to buy the ali plate instead . The links need to be threaded with M3 rod to fit the ball ends but no biggie, think I can manage that.

And, whilst on Rccrawler I found someone else on the Isle of Man who crawls so I dropped him a pm to see if he fancies a bash in the new year. Might be good to get out and at least have someone to talk to

[Leethal Driver]

Ok, bit of an update.

Picked up a Novak Fifty Five motor cheap on ebay, needs new wires/connectors soldering on:



All external bearings now replaced with rubber sealed rather than metal.

Rear axle rebuilt.



Did notice that the front knuckles (a common cheap improvement from experience) have a flange that if trimmed away improves steering lock. The one on the right still has it, the one on the left, not.



Waiting for the trans plate and links to arrive. Been mulling over the shell - the BF shell is a good deal wider than the MP and the two chassis plates which may cause some grief but I'll worry about that in due course.

[Leethal Driver]

Righto, these turned up in the Christmas post, quite suprised by speed of delivery so well done the chaps at ToadzRC.



Drilled out the transmission mounting plate to fit the Mav gearbox. As you can see all four screws are perpendicular whereas the Axial gearbox has the inboard screw holes closer together. Have ordered some 10mm countersunk M3 screws and I'll drill out the holes so that the bottom of the trans mount plate is a nice smooth surface without the screwheads jutting out - a minor mod but it'll help slide over those rocks Also, the Delrin is a much stiffer material than the stock mounting which is far too flimsy so will help to keep the chassis a bit more rigid.





Going to do a bit of work on the links this eve, will post a pic or two once it's all back together.

[Leethal Driver]

Chopped some M3 rod into 20mm bars thus



Good spread of Loctite blue threadlock and voila (apols for crappy pic)! Although a couple hadn't dried fully when I cam to put the rod ends on so had to redo those Kept the existing links to see if I can use them on my Clod at some point in the future.



Put rear end back together just to see how it looks.



Using stock driveshafts for now. Is it worth upgrading these out of the box to Junfac (got one on my Jero and it's top work so would get a couple for this)? Am also toying with using a solid M3 rod all the way through between the chassis plates to mount the shocks at the top and the body at the same time but will get front end together and then see where we go from there. Still worried that the BF body is too wide for the chassis but it does mean I'll be able to drop it down over the chassis more.

And does anyone know if the F350 interior would fit in a BF with a bit of chopping about? Keen to get a driver into this to finish it off.

[Leethal Driver]

As is my wont, this has been knocking about on the bench for a while and as I had an hour or so free this eve I thought I'd get back on it.

Wheels all wrapped in lead tape, with a couple of 3mm holes drilled though either side. Can't remember how much it was but it's quite a diff when you hold all four wheels and tyres in your hand.


Fitted the Novak 55T and put the chassis back together. Fired it up and it runs nicely but a little bit of tweaking here and there. Going to get on with the shell; plan to keep it simple so I can get it done reasonably quickly



Not sure if the lower links are the right way round but they do the job anyhow . Need to drill out the delrin tranny plate now I've got some 8mm countersunk screws to hand too, give it a nice smooth underside.

[mr crispy]

It's looking good to me mate. I found weighting the wheels made a big difference to what mine will climb. Think I put 200gms on the front and 100gms on the rear wheels, it's a heavy old lump to pick up now. How much difference has the 55T motor made? More torque?

[Will16]

The Mav is lookin' good! How far did you drill the Mav's transmission holes in to the transmission plate?? Sideways I mean.

[Leethal Driver]

Comes pre drilled (I had to drill some holes slightly wider apart for the Mav tranny) and the stock horizontal mounts for the chassis plate are an exact match; I gather much of AX10 will fit the Mav without mods (or vice versa).

Well, I spent all weekend in the garden with a 10Kg Demolition Hammer giving it to the potting shed. Whilst lumping the hardcore onto my garden path (so I can start at one end and wheel it out with a barrow, I'm not daft ) I had a eureka moment early doors, and then spent the rest of the day trying to "place" the bricks so I could give the Mav a proper run out later Unfortunately, it started to rain so I got all of five minutes at the end of the day (and tbh, I could just about lift the tranny I was that knackered). It's all going this Friday so I'll have half an hour before the skip arrives and I have to then cart it all out of the garden. Ah well, it'll be fun whilst it lasts....

[Will16]

Thats looks like a great crawling territory!! Have fun!!

Does the Maverick come with a slipper clutch?? (I highly doubt it!!)

I dont suppose you could take the wheelbase and width of the Mav could you??

[Leethal Driver]

No it doesn't come with a slipper, that's asking a bit much for £125 RTR

Axle to axle is c.330mm, centre tyre to centre tyre is 200mm give or take. Official stats are 450x250mm.

So got half an hour in before the skip arrived. Great fun, although I did pop the rear drive shaft off the transmission which put paid to proceedings. Grub screw still there, must have caught it on one of the edges of the bricks. Took a few pics of the action

Off we go


Up and over


I want your flex


Easy does it


This was my favorite bit of the "course". Never did manage to get across to the other part of the platform, every time I got the front wheels onto the second platform they just kept sliding away with the camber as there was quite a bit of dust. You can see the body mount on this one, a piece of M3 rod all the way through the the chassis plates and the top of the shocks. Going to drill a couple of holes in the BF shell and then use a couple of lock nuts to hold it in place but I'll start that once I've got the rear mount ready.


Would have been easier had I worked out how to switch the steering direction on my new 2.4g radio as it was the wrong way round and I couldn't be rsed digging out the instructions. That's why I kept rolling it and failing to make that gate. Honest.

Need to practice driving a bit slower too...

[Leethal Driver]

Finally got the shell fixed, had to turn rear shock upside down and move the top mount a little forwards.







To get it 100% right it needs a bit of tweaking here and there - mostly the front and rear parts of the shell need cutting away on each wing to prevent tyre rub (which is how most crawler shells look anyhow).

BUt, as I don't have the time to finish this it's in my Trades section. Take a look.