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Tub chassis vs CF chassis


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#1 TenzoR

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 02:27 PM

I'm deciding if I should upgrade my tub chassis to a cf chassis. My driving is average at best. I can setup my car pretty decently since most of the top drivers who helps me says my car is very easy to drive (so the problem seems to be me). I'm curious to know if the CF chassis will help or will it make it worst? Currently I have a TB03 and I'm looking to get an used TRF417.

#2 sosidge

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 04:37 PM

I'm deciding if I should upgrade my tub chassis to a cf chassis. My driving is average at best. I can setup my car pretty decently since most of the top drivers who helps me says my car is very easy to drive (so the problem seems to be me). I'm curious to know if the CF chassis will help or will it make it worst? Currently I have a TB03 and I'm looking to get an used TRF417.


In that case I doubt you will notice any benefit. A well set up car is a well set up car, changing the chassis material will not make it instantly significantly faster, and can even make it worse.

The only benefit I have really found with the flat-plate chassis is that it easier to set the tweak on them (moulded chassis are often slightly askew). But on the track, the moulded cars run well.

#3 kaiser

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 06:05 PM

if anything the cf chassis will make the car a bit twitchier (if thats a word lol).

the plastic tub has more flex and will be more forgiving compared to a stiff unforgiving cf chassis

#4 Origineelreclamebord

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 08:13 AM

As long as you feel the car is not holding you back to reach your best lap times, and the most fun of course, it is not worth buying a different car. If you had a very aged tourer it might be worth it: I drive buggies and I'm very glad I replaced my Dyna Storm with a TRF201 - but that's an 18-year gap in age and development, not +/- 3 years like with the TB03 and TRF417 - which shouldn't make that big a difference.

The only thing I could comment on about the TB03 vs TRF417 is the type of drive they have. Shaft drives put the power down a bit more direct than belt driven cars do, so getting the power down smoothly might prove a little harder - if you have fitted a hot motor it may become more noticeable than you would with a silver can - that's what I've heard anyway, just putting it up here :)

I'd just stick with the TB03 and train yourself. Perhaps you could try to get some info from fellow members and pro's as to how they drive their cars. Try some different styles of driving and find one that suits you and your car :lol: Once that's done you'll overtake those 417s with your TB03!

#5 bromvw

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 08:31 AM

As long as you feel the car is not holding you back to reach your best lap times, and the most fun of course, it is not worth buying a different car. If you had a very aged tourer it might be worth it: I drive buggies and I'm very glad I replaced my Dyna Storm with a TRF201 - but that's an 18-year gap in age and development, not +/- 3 years like with the TB03 and TRF417 - which shouldn't make that big a difference.

The only thing I could comment on about the TB03 vs TRF417 is the type of drive they have. Shaft drives put the power down a bit more direct than belt driven cars do, so getting the power down smoothly might prove a little harder - if you have fitted a hot motor it may become more noticeable than you would with a silver can - that's what I've heard anyway, just putting it up here ;)

I'd just stick with the TB03 and train yourself. Perhaps you could try to get some info from fellow members and pro's as to how they drive their cars. Try some different styles of driving and find one that suits you and your car :) Once that's done you'll overtake those 417s with your TB03!

I can only relate this to 1:1 cars . I used to be involved in motorsport both as a driver and engineer . Chassis stiffness is vital . So is set up , ie spring rates , camber , toe in, tires ect ect . Finding the optimum set up for any given track is a dark art . Ask around and walk the padocks . Take note of what the fast guys are running . After that its all down to practice and more practice . Consistant fast laps take time to achive . Dont replace a car just because its not competitive . More often than not its easier to adjust the way a car is driven than the car itself .

#6 Percymon

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 09:14 AM

Put an average driver in a Porsche 911 and a skilled driver in a Golf GTI and watch the Golf disappear into the distance.
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#7 bromvw

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 09:22 AM

Put an average driver in a Porsche 911 and a skilled driver in a Golf GTI and watch the Golf disappear into the distance.

well put . my point entirely

#8 Percymon

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 10:55 AM

Put an average driver in a Porsche 911 and a skilled driver in a Golf GTI and watch the Golf disappear into the distance.

The lightness of CF can be an advantage, and can often give you a few extra options for placement fo electronics for improved weight distribution. But as stated already it comes with added stiffness which isn't always a good thing.
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#9 TenzoR

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 01:12 PM

I was doing pretty well (about mid fields) up until we moved facility. Now I'm near the bottom. I guess I just need more time than others to fine tune the car to my liking. We are just running blinky 17.5 so it's not too powerful.

I was thinking about a change since several people approach me about buying my chassis since they all seem to love it when they drove it. Must be me really :)



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