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Help me figure out EZrun stubs on motor...


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#1 Yello

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 12:12 AM

What are those three stubs on the motor? And how do I remove them?

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Here's a better picture, considering that my motor has the colored wrapping on the stubs:

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What I'd like to do is remove those stubs so that I can solder in wires coming in from the other direction.

But I'm not sure if those stubs are themselves soldered in. It doesn't look like solder. They seem to be bolted in, though I might be wrong.

Would it be possible to simply open up the motor and flip that plate around? So that those stubs point *in* rather than away?

Presuming I'm supposed to solder in wires onto those stubs, those stubs+solder+wires sticking out will make the EZrun in a Baldre practically useless considering I won't be able to place the body over it.

In fact, if I'm honest, I already have the wires soldered in and so I have experience of the problem directly. I will have to melt those wires off and try to re-solder them in coming in from the other direction. Maybe I'll need to use flux.

Trying to do a good soldering job and not having the proper equipment, or a third or fourth arm, made soldering the single most difficult and stressful thing I've dealt with since getting back into RC. Very difficult for me.

Would appreciate the help, as usual.
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#2 Thommo

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:38 AM

They are actually the terminals and you should be able to pull the connector out of each one. Pliers will help. The connector comes out and the terminal remains.

As this is going in your Baldre, you will have to solder the motor wires at 90 degrees to the connector. Then you can just plug in and un plug your motor wires easily.

Good Luck.

#3 Yello

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:26 AM

I learned something here. I didn't realize those things are connectors. They do come off. But those terminals remain. Anyway to flip them around instead?

You're saying that I will need to strip these connectors of their sleeves solder them perpendicular ?

Once I get this corrected, the fun factor behind the Baldre will increae tremendously considering that I won't have to worry as much anymore about all the debris getting into the chassis.
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#4 TWINSET

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:07 AM

I flipped mine - they just solder in to that plate
Heat each one with a soldering iron and they come out dead easy

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#5 Thommo

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 12:51 PM

You're saying that I will need to strip these connectors of their sleeves solder them perpendicular ?

Once I get this corrected, the fun factor behind the Baldre will increae tremendously considering that I won't have to worry as much anymore about all the debris getting into the chassis.


You don't strip off the coloured insulation if that's what you mean. Tin your motor wire with solder, tin the connector inside the channel of the connector with solder. Lay the motor wire down in the channel at the end of the connector at 90 degrees and hit it with the iron.

Once you have finished all three just pop them on and they sit nicely across the end of the motor. The body sits very close on the Baldre but all good.

Or flip them over if you prefer.

Have Fun

#6 Yello

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:58 PM

Thanks for the reply. Those terminals ARE soldered on. Granted, it wasn't easy for me to melt those things down and stick the terminals back in -- It was a PITA, and I hope I didn't melt anything within the motor consideirng how much time I spent at it. But all seems to be fine.

I will definitely need to invest in a better soldering iron.

Thanks guys.
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#7 Live Steam Mad

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 01:44 AM

Thanks for the reply. Those terminals ARE soldered on. Granted, it wasn't easy for me to melt those things down and stick the terminals back in -- It was a PITA, and I hope I didn't melt anything within the motor consideirng how much time I spent at it. But all seems to be fine.

I will definitely need to invest in a better soldering iron.

Thanks guys.


For help with soldering see ;-

http://www.tamiyaclu...showtopic=59967

...and ;-

http://www.tamiyaclu...mp;#entry361706

Very intersting to read about those motor terminals, I have always wondered how they worked since I first started to see them on sensored brushless motors. Can anyone show us a picture with the terminals unplugged from their sockets (or whatever it is), that would be useful to see.

For my Scorcher I chose a sensorless motor simply because the motor cables came out in a different direction (Hobbywing / Keda 13T motor 3000kV 380 rotor in 540 sized can in my case).

Cheers,

Alistair G.
in NW & want to recreate vintage FUN races? Contact me!
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#8 Yello

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 02:39 AM

Sorry, the electronics on my EzRun don't like to be fiddled around with. it's currently at a happy stasis, nice and stable, and so I don't have personal pictures.

But when you remove the "stubs" above, what's beneath are simply banana-plug-like plugs or tips. Kind of like the male tip in this picture:

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Thanks for the reply. - I still have trouble soldering. I tried getting a chisel tip for my 30w Radioshack soldering iron but could not find a chisel tip its size, and today I had to solder a Deans plug onto my first ever lipo battery. The solder joints look arthritic! But they seem strong.
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#9 Live Steam Mad

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 06:46 AM

I still have trouble soldering. I tried getting a chisel tip for my 30w Radioshack soldering iron but could not find a chisel tip its size, and today I had to solder a Deans plug onto my first ever lipo battery. The solder joints look arthritic! But they seem strong.


I would suggest that 30W is not enough so that anyone inexperienced (not directed at you necessarily, just a general point) with soldering would have quite a bit of difficulty in joining a 14 AWG wire onto one of these terminals, I imagine, at least for their first attempt.

You really need at least a 40W or more iron for this sort of stuff, I use a 50W Antex TCS iron on medium temperature setting, or maybe you can get away with a 30W iron if you use a large bit such as the 6mm one that I use sometimes (single faced, oval faced bit, with an angled (chamfered) face), all my bits are this style, I have the 1mm, 3mm and 6mm bits). If I was to preheat the end of the 14 AWG wire for about 20 seconds with the 6mm bit (possible if Silicone insulated wire is used and not PVC) before attempting to make the joint then I would probably be able to acheive it with a 30W iron. But if your iron's bit is the same style as mine but only a couple of mm in diameter and only 30W then you can more or less forget making a good full shiny joint on these kind of thick wires and terminals.

Also, are you using RadioShack .032" 60/40 Tin/Lead ROSIN (flux) core solder or similar like I am? I had to import mine from USA, I used to use Deans Racing Solder but they stopped doing it, and then the UK banned sale of all solder products with lead in them unfortunately, and lead free type solders need lead free type irons as well so I was told, and lead free solder has a significantly higher melting point and does not flow as well (I was told the latter point by several people).

In short, it seems your iron is too low powered, and your bit may be too small or the wrong style for doing these type of jobs easily.

I just looked at the price of the Antex iron and I'm glad I got it some years ago when I had some money, it's about 50 GBP now and I'm a lot poorer now LOL. It was worth the money back then though as it seems to last forever (so do the bits) and does a great job every time, I'm very pleased with it.

Cheers,

Alistair G.
in NW & want to recreate vintage FUN races? Contact me!
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#10 sosidge

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 10:47 AM

Actually the sale of leaded solder products is not banned. They are just banned from industrial use.

If you go to an independent hardware/electrical shop rather than one of the big sheds you should be able to find it relatively easily.

I would never use lead-free solder for hobby use. Complete pain to work with.

#11 Live Steam Mad

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 09:29 PM

Actually the sale of leaded solder products is not banned. They are just banned from industrial use.

If you go to an independent hardware/electrical shop rather than one of the big sheds you should be able to find it relatively easily.

I would never use lead-free solder for hobby use. Complete pain to work with.


Thanks for the info.

Our local independent Webbs Electronics shut long ago, so did the chain called Tandy. So now I'm just left with Maplin and I was told in Maplin that they were not allowed to sell soldering products with lead in them, and all their range of irons and solder was now lead free, so I just walked out LOL.

Cheers,

ARG
in NW & want to recreate vintage FUN races? Contact me!
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