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#26 Percymon

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 10:28 AM

The R1 gearbox and motor mount allows 9T to 19T pinions which gives gear ratios from 53.65 to 25.42. R1 portal axles are geared 2.76.
History for last 30 months.. bought too many, not sold enough - current stable 46 EEK

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#27 bromvw

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 02:05 PM

I've managed to find some good ref photo's that will be a big help with the build . The actual Actionman GPA seems fairly true to the original and even has a prop and rudder so hopefully making it funtional won'nt be that hard :unsure: . I can only hope so B) . Most of the stuff i need seems to be available from either after market crawler sites ie RC4WD or scale boat sellers . Hopefully i'll be able to build a real one off .http://www.american-.../43fordGPA.html

#28 bromvw

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 03:28 PM

Postman Pat has left a card through the door while i was sleeping ( night shifts this week) so l'll have the hull/body in the morning when i pick it up from the sorting office on my way home ;) . Then i can make a start and really see whats involved .

#29 bromvw

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 07:30 AM

Well its now here . It actually looks as if this is going to be easier than i'd thought . I'll most likely cut the top 'deck' off to allow access . Then it will be a case of building wheel arches ect ect . My past experiance in building scale boats is going to come in handy ;) . One or two bits missing ie steering wheel and a passanger seat but thats easy to sort out . Not sure how far i'll go in detailing but i'd like it to be as scale looking as possiable .

EDIT 'deck' section cut off and i have a nice 'hull' to work with . I now think that this will be a lot easier then i thought . Even the position of the existing prop is good in terms of mounting a functioning drive .

#30 bromvw

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 07:32 AM

can anyone recomend a suitable glue for use on the soft plastics as used on actionman vehicle's ???Is there anything other than loctite all plastics superglue that i can use as this is rather expensive ?

#31 bromvw

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 08:58 PM

I have a 380 in a scale boat that is ideal size wise ie correct prop and shaft length , question is could i use this on a twin brushed esc without risk of causing damage to the unit ?no idea how many turns it is .

#32 bromvw

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:50 PM

I'am still at the drawing board and design stage . Top deck has being removed and i'am now working on the wheel arches ect . I'll start a build thread when i'am a little further along . I'll be adding bulkheads to pervent any water swamping the electrics when entering the ponds/rivers and adding some foam just in case it ever decides to become a submarine :D

#33 bromvw

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 07:15 PM

i've being giving this a lot of thought and i think i'am going to do all the internal mods ie wheel arches , bulkheads ect in a composite of 3mm marine ply and fiber glass epoxy . The plastic molding is a PITA to get anything to bond to so i'll give this a go .

#34 bromvw

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:04 PM

I've done a few test pieces and i'am beinging to think that to correct way to go about this is to use the existing 'hull' as a mold . Theres no reason i can'nt have a fiberglass lower section and use the existing deck .

#35 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 10:50 AM

This is still very much a work in progress . Obviously i'am having to design and source everything and this is taking time but i'll not give up on it . I have 90% of the running gear figured out so its more a case of fabrication now . Once done i'll be fitting Dragon USMC 1/6 action figures and perhaps a 50cal browning . IMO to get away from its actionman beginings it needs loads of detail to pull it together .
Its a long term project but i'am keeping a good photo record and have a file of all the bits i'am using so i can do a detailed build thread once its further along .

#36 30YrsL8r

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 11:01 AM

IMO to get away from its actionman beginings it needs loads of detail to pull it together .


There's no shame in it... I think you should install an AM as the driver :lol:
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#37 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 11:04 AM

There's no shame in it... I think you should install an AM as the driver :lol:



i've thought of that but the Dragon action figures are far better detailed . Hopefully i can fit a small servo and having the steering wheel turning through his hands .

#38 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 11:05 AM

There's no shame in it... I think you should install an AM as the driver :lol:

EDIT while looking for scale parts i've come across this e bay store . OMG if i buy some bits from here it will save me hour and hours of work . ;)
http://stores.ebay.c...sid=p4340.l2563

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#39 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:26 PM

http://stores.ebay.c...sid=p4340.l2563 . Think i've found a great source of jeep parts that will save me many many hours of work . As a example - all i did was enter jeep in the product search .

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#40 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:35 PM

and another item .

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#41 30YrsL8r

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:44 PM

And you're going to drive all this cool stuff into a pond?
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#42 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:45 PM

And you're going to drive all this cool stuff into a pond?



Yes :lol: . the more detail the better

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#43 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 02:27 PM

windscreen is very well detailed. I was getting down hearted over this project but now i can see some light at the end of the tunnel . Ok so it will cost me to finish it but a one off is never as cheap as a bespoke item .

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#44 mr crispy

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:17 PM

Check out www.armorpax.com for more 1/6 detail bits. I use to collect 1/6 figures, Dragon are a good company and their line called Dragon in Dreams will give you a lot of great details kit to fill out the jeep.

Got any pics yet?
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#45 bromvw

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:27 PM

Some good stuff on that armorpax site but as their white metal i dont think i use them .The 1/4ton 4x4 truck (jeep) from Dragon is a good scorce of parts as its basically a jeep and the jeep shared many parts with the Ford GPA seep . I have to keep the all up weight in mind . No photos as yet because all i have to show is a 'hull' that is very rough and cut about . As soon as i get somewhere i'll post .One design choice i have made is to not have a chassis and to use the hull as the chassis instead . Its very strong and i can simply bolt through it .

#46 bromvw

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 05:39 PM

I hope to start making some real progress on this over the next week or so . I have a lot of parts on order but while they arrive i'am going to start laying up all the internal hull mods and bulkheads in 3 mm marine ply and fiberglass . If anyone happens to know the distance between the leaf spring mounts on rc4wd T Rex 60 Axels that would be a huge help so i can make the wheel arches .I belive their interchangable with the Bruiser ? so if you can measure for me ?



#47 Skottoman

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 10:44 PM

Center of leafspring mount to leafspring mount on my T-Rex 60 axle is 82mm.

Cheers,
Skottoman

#48 bromvw

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 04:44 AM

Center of leafspring mount to leafspring mount on my T-Rex 60 axle is 82mm.

Cheers,
Skottoman



Many Thanks Skotto
Cheers,

Arron

#49 bromvw

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 08:50 PM

i've come up with a very simple way to switch from the wheels drive motor to the prop drive when entering the water . I'am simply going to wire a float valve switch and a relay to the prop drive motor supply so it can only operate once i enter the water and cut the supply to the wheels motor . that way i can use a 2 Channel set . Simple but effective .

#50 30YrsL8r

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 11:27 PM

i've come up with a very simple way to switch from the wheels drive motor to the prop drive when entering the water .

What about leaving the water? Aren't you relying on the prop to push you far enough up the bank to drop the float and start the wheels?
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