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Ford Aeromax Build Thread


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#1 mtbkym01

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 04:45 AM

Ok before you get too excited (as I know a few of you are waiting to see this) I'm thinking of starting this very soon, but......at this stage I dont have an MFC and am wondering if I build the kit, is it much of a hassle to fit the unit later (as at this stage, I'm not sure when an MFC will find it's way to me)

Also, if anyone has some idea's about any other hop-ups that are "required" that would be most appreciated

Will start posting pics as soon as I get into the kit, already got the cab/body paint scheme in my head

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#2 bromvw

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 05:04 AM

i've always thought that a Heng long ( as used in their scale tanks ) smoke unit plumbed into the stacks would look great on any Big Rig build . Seem to be available as proprotional units so with the engine start up sounds from a MFU it would be very cool .

#3 MadInventor

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 08:08 AM

I'd get a full set of roller bearings. It will be right pain to retro fit them afterwords.

If you don't want to spend mega bucks on an MFU right now, Stella models do a light unit that controls headlights, indicators, brake lights, and reversing lights for about 17 It comes with 4 3mm indicator LEDs, 2 5mm brake lights, and 2 5mm headlights. Also has an additional plug for LEDs to be on al the time (Think lightbar, foglights, etc)

#4 Tamiya1/10

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 11:07 AM

Your typical hop up (other than bearings as already mentioned by Mad) for the Aeromax from Tamiya would be the metal wheels, (I think there are aftermarket, which are cheaper), oil filled shocks, telescopic antenna, which I think is about it from Tamiya for the Aero.

I build the King with old MFU at the same time without the interior inorder to fit the speaker. I think for the old MFC you can add it later, but you will likely use the current MFU and yours is an Aero so your best bet is double check with your LHS or maybe email Tamiya USA if you are from the States and see what they tell you. I have a feeling it can be fitted later and will not be a problem like the bearings, after all is just wirings and founding a place to mount the speaker and shaker motor.

#5 Skottoman

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 05:35 PM

Ok, here's my thoughts (You knew they were coming!) :D

I did a quick scan through my Knight Hauler build to see when I actually put the MFU in.
It's not until a lot of the truck is built, but a minor problem lies in the lights.

If you look at my build, you'll see I'm running wires as I'm building up the chassis, and placing them for the MFU later on.
While I think it's totally possible to retrofit lights/mfu after the build, it would involve re-doing some work.

If you don't mind pulling a few pieces and threading some wiring, I think you should go for the build, and even get into the body painting (which does not require any lights/mfu to get started).
If you want to get things together all at once, then wait on the chassis build until you get an MFU.

Up to you, but of course I would prefer to start seeing pix of the build! :D

As far as upgrades? I would skip the oil filled shocks, as I don't see them making much difference in handling.
Lots of aftermarket alloy wheels, RC4wd has some great wheel hubs, etc, but all are not required.
I'd say the #1 thing to do is get a 55t motor to slow the truck down to closer to scale speeds. It's still plenty fast in 3rd gear!

Enjoy!
Skottoman

#6 berman

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 01:58 AM

As far as upgrades? I would skip the oil filled shocks, as I don't see them making much difference in handling.
Lots of aftermarket alloy wheels, RC4wd has some great wheel hubs, etc, but all are not required.
I'd say the #1 thing to do is get a 55t motor to slow the truck down to closer to scale speeds. It's still plenty fast in 3rd gear!

Enjoy!
Skottoman


Yeah wait for the MFC-01, it's a bit of a brain melt having to cross reference (especially when you are tired and cant put the screwdriver down!),
but better to have everything at the ready. Like Skotto said, by all means paint the shell now if you want! :)

I second the hubs Skottoman said, they look awesome on his KH and I'm going to follow suit one day!
But the best thing ever is the 55t I borrowed off a mate, I clocked my KH at 20 kph with the stock silvercan (that's as fast as a m03 mini!) and I've put the
trailer up on two wheels while trying to turn at full speed :lol: Also the gears weren't a realistic speed, 1st went on forever, once I put the 55t in I was much happier. :P
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#7 mtbkym01

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 06:20 AM

Great info guys, really appreciate it, Yeah, have decided I'm gonna wait until the MFU is here for it, but have been thinking about paint, and have settled on a design, so I'll grab some TS soon, and get masking.

The worst thing is I had an awesome Reedy 55T that I had in my crawler for a week (replaced with a Brushless set-up) sitting in my toolbox for 12 months, then sold it for less that 1/2 it's worth, and now could defintely use it in the Aeromax. Oh well, will have to grab another 55T at some point.

Stay tuned, Body shots to appear in the not too distant future

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#8 Skottoman

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 02:56 PM

I will also add that you could start building up the chassis, as the only part that has wires are the rear lights. The rest of the lights are installed in the cab. (Except maybe the front bumper)

Wiring up the rear light pods wouldn't be that difficult to do after the fact. You can even build up the transmission, install servos, etc.

You WILL need the MFC-01 before you finish the shell to attach it though.

Basically I think you could build up the truck and add the MFC before cab install.

Looking forward to the pix!
Cheers,
Skottoman

#9 mtbkym01

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 10:33 AM

Ok, next one, Speedies? TEU104BK do the job, or do I need something else?

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#10 BiggusDitchus

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 10:42 AM

If you are going for the MFC you wont need the esc, if you arent using the MFC the 104bk will do just fine.

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#11 mtbkym01

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:34 PM

Still no MFC, and not even any paint yet :lol: , but decided it was time to crack it open and get up to my elbows :D

I still get a huge buzz from opening up a NIB, getting ready to start building
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Futaba servos, to go with the 4YF
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Man this thing is long, not much room on my table
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Shocks all built, not a fan of the anodizing
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Front end progress
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Rear end progress
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Gear Box
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Thats it for now, heading away for a few days with work, but stay tuned

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#12 Skottoman

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:07 PM

This is great!!!!! Now I bet you can appreciate the awesomeness that is the Tamiya Semi!

I see your kit appears to have come with ball bearings? I also find it interesting your fuel tanks are black instead of chrome. I guess you paint those? (EDIT: I see, looks like there is a cover for them...)
I hated the pink shocks also but you can't really get paint to stick, so I wrapped mine in chrome decal. Works well.

I may be starting up a Scania R470 build in 2 weeks when I get back from a vacation so it could possibly be a truck build fest!

Cheers!!!!
Skottoman

#13 matman

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:08 PM

Great start so far . You just can't beat a NIB build , Just opening
up the box & getting that NIB smell .
Amazing how you can smell some thing & it takes you back to some special
time .
So what do you think of the build so far ?.

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#14 mtbkym01

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:37 PM

This is great!!!!! Now I bet you can appreciate the awesomeness that is the Tamiya Semi!

I see your kit appears to have come with ball bearings? I also find it interesting your fuel tanks are black instead of chrome. I guess you paint those? (EDIT: I see, looks like there is a cover for them...)
I hated the pink shocks also but you can't really get paint to stick, so I wrapped mine in chrome decal. Works well.

I may be starting up a Scania R470 build in 2 weeks when I get back from a vacation so it could possibly be a truck build fest!

Cheers!!!!
Skottoman

I'm very concerned, the enjoyment of this kit may make me want to appreciate it over and over, meaning more kits of course :D
The bearings were ordered separately, as far as the shocks go, I have heard of anodizing being "stripped" back to normal aluminium, so I may research that a little further

I'm liking the thought of a Euro truck to sit alongside this one :rolleyes:

Great start so far . You just can't beat a NIB build , Just opening
up the box & getting that NIB smell .
Amazing how you can smell some thing & it takes you back to some special
time .
So what do you think of the build so far ?.

Awesome build so far Matt, infact, I'd go as far to say, the best Tamiya build for me to date (at least on par with the Avante)

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#15 mtbkym01

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 01:26 AM

Decided to get a bit more done this morning, hard to stop :rolleyes:

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Will need to do some disassembly for lights already :D
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Bypassed a couple steps to get it sitting on it wheels
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Think that will be it for the chassis until I get the MFC, will stop by the LHS soon to get some paint and get the body detailing happening.
I've never used clearcoat before (havent really done a hardbody worth clearcoating) so hopefully I dont stuff it up.

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#16 Skottoman

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 02:38 PM

Yeah, you're doing great! It is a bit concerning that these are sooooo satisfying to build, that you want another before you're even done with the first one!

You'll do great on the body this is coming along nicely...
Cheers,
Skottoman

#17 bromvw

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 03:09 PM

Dont worry about clear coat . Just leave the base coats to fully harden ( about a week) . Give the entire jod a good going over with rubbing compound then lay on the clear in light even coats . leave it another few days to cure then buff it up . It takes time but the result is well worth the extra effort .

#18 mtbkym01

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 09:02 PM

Hey Skottoman, did you use some double sided tape to attach your shift gate to your TX?

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#19 Skottoman

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 11:02 PM

Hey Skottoman, did you use some double sided tape to attach your shift gate to your TX?


Yup, I cut some small pieces and stuck it on. Didn't want to get any CA glue involved, the tape works great.

I'll say it was a fairly thin foam tape. The kind that comes with most kits, and you never know what to do with... haha.

Cheers,
Skottoman

#20 berman

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 11:05 PM

Looking great so far mate! :) Yeah that is the thing with these, they are addictive to build. I so want another one!

You should be able to get the anodising off with oven cleaner, I haven't tried on the actual semi truck shocks myself though.

Yes use double sided tape on the shift gate, recommend either the common rubbery tamiya stuff or some thin foam stuff, the thin (selotape type)
stuff that usually comes with these kits for the trim is too thin for the shift gate. four strips around the gate should be enough.


Decided on a trailer yet? :lol:
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#21 mtbkym01

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:23 AM

Ok, cheers, thought tape would be the go.

As far as trailers go, I really like the tanker, but who knows, will see what happens when I have the funds, other stuff to buy first

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#22 gozone

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 03:54 PM

The anodizing on the shocks comes off REALLY fast using Caustic soda dissolved in water. ;) But be careful.. If left in too long, the shocks will vanish all together..

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#23 mtbkym01

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 09:00 AM

A bit of premature assembly to get a feel for the size of this thing
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You will probably notice the smoke stacks at 45 degrees rather than straight out the back as per the kit instructions, I think it looks better this way, and perhaps more common to what is out on the full size roads. Promise I'll get some paint soon.

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#24 KalEl63

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 09:28 AM

Very Nice!
I still have to get one of these..... must stop buying buggies :)

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#25 Skottoman

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 03:30 PM

Looks massive! Aren't these just great to build? Doing a superb job...

Now the real fun begins... the body and detailing!
Cheers,
Skottoman



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