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Fitting a 12mm hex wheel to the front


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#1 bugone

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Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:26 PM

I've been pondering for ages how to fit a set of modern wheels, designed to fit a 4 wheel drive, as free wheeling to the front of a rear wheel drive car.

I got the HPI front wheel adapter set, however this didn't fit the HPI wheels I'd bought, and I couldn't think of a way to adapt them accurately enough (I didn't want to drill the wheels.)

Anyhow, after a bit of pondering, I came up with a solution, that works! Apologies if this is a well known work around, I couldn't find any other reference to it.

So, the dilemma. Make this, fit this....

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I already have the HPI rear wheel adapter set, that allowed me to fit the 12mm hex wheels to the rear of the Monster Beetle easily.

My idea was, instead of making the wheel free wheel, make the whole axle free wheel, like the rear. So, I used my old rear driveshafts, and chopped the hub off the end of it to give a nice flush 'end stopper'

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I then used a a TL01 upright that I had lying around, and trimmed it to fit the monster beetle. The original pin went through nicely.

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Ignore the rear wheel adapter above, that put the front wheels spaced out too far. To bring them inline with the rears, I put a 8x5x2.5 bearing either side of the hub assembly (as a spacer) then I used a HPI wheel washer. Instead of the rear wheel adapter for a Tamiya, I used the flush 12mm hex adapter that came in the HPI kit, and opened the hole our to 5mm.

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Then, on the other side of the wheel I used two Tamiya 'bearings' as spacers.

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The end result is a perfectly secure, balanced, free wheeling wheel. Plus as an added bonus, I'm not going to be breaking any more uprights. <_<

#2 mongoose1983

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Posted 20 April 2012 - 10:43 PM

I know this might be as offtopic as it can get, but couldn't help to notice the number stamped on that Brat chassis (first picture). Is that some special/numbered kind of chassis? Oh, by the way, your custom truck looks pretty cool!
RR+SS+SC+Brat+FAV+Grasshopper+Hornet+Bruiser+BigWig+BF+MB+CB

The BIGWIG owners & enthusiasts S.I.G.

#3 Daves956

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Posted 21 April 2012 - 03:25 AM

I found this Traxxas front suspension in a bargain bin. It might save you some steps since it's a shorter axle and an over the counter part at a LHS.
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I wanted it for just such a task.

#4 bugone

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Posted 21 April 2012 - 05:45 AM

I know this might be as offtopic as it can get, but couldn't help to notice the number stamped on that Brat chassis (first picture). Is that some special/numbered kind of chassis? Oh, by the way, your custom truck looks pretty cool!

I have no idea about he number. Don't all chassis have one? It was like that when I got it at Xmas. Perhaps some o the gurus here will be able to spread more light on it.

#5 mongoose1983

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Posted 21 April 2012 - 05:58 AM

I have no idea about he number. Don't all chassis have one? It was like that when I got it at Xmas. Perhaps some o the gurus here will be able to spread more light on it.

Well, I have had five grey ORV chassis, three original and two re-res, and until now I have never seen such thing. Have you got it in some kit or as NIP spare parts?
RR+SS+SC+Brat+FAV+Grasshopper+Hornet+Bruiser+BigWig+BF+MB+CB

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#6 billg4

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Posted 21 April 2012 - 05:53 PM

I found this Traxxas front suspension in a bargain bin. It might save you some steps since it's a shorter axle and an over the counter part at a LHS.
http://i1171.photobu...56/IMG_1217.jpg
I wanted it for just such a task.


I too have used traxxas pede/slash parts to put 12mm hex's on front of 2wd tamiyas

#7 Andyrt200

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:26 AM

Looks very good, but what's the bump steer like now? I was trying something similar only I found the lower mounted steering arm made the bump steer worse than it was with the original uprights on it.

#8 Daves956

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 01:14 AM

On the one here, the steering arm is on center with the axle.

#9 bugone

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 08:35 PM

Bump steer is pretty shocking. However, I've just looked at the photos and it looks like I can improve this by swapping the two sides over, and putting the ball joint in the other way.

Can't believe I didn't see this before.

#10 bugone

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:01 AM

I've now managed to refine the front axles to eliminate bump steer, and remove any wheel movement. Originally, the holes in the uprights were slightly larger than the original MB pin, so I've changed this for a 4mm x 40mm half threaded rod, and and a standard Tamiya locking nut. I had to open the upright holders hole a little, and the upright, but they not fit securely and have no flex.

I've also now flipped the upright, and am using a longer ball joint, this has lifted the pivot up quite a lot. The tie rod is nearly horizontal, so hopefully bump steer has been eliminated.

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