35 replies to this topic

[FLEXUS]

It's not possible to fit the motor in there any other way to change the rotation direction of the motor in relation to the direction the model travels. The reason the instructions mention the direction of rotation is due to the high amount of advance in the motor timing. You will certainly notice it if the motor is spinning the wrong way, just the same as you will notice that driving in reverse has reduced speed and power if it's fitted correctly.

Some models with two motors have one motor rotating CW and the other is rotating CCW. One of the motors in this situation would need to be retimed for the 23T BZ to suitable.

Good day Mark

thanks for the detailed motor advice.

yeah i thought that about the motor direction as it can only be fitted one way.

Don't run this motor with plastic bushings. Fit a complete bearing kit in the chassis. There is a high chance the extra rpm of this motor will melt the plastic bushings.

I wouldn't run a model even on the silvercan kit motor without fitting full bearings. The plastic bushings wear the metal shafts as well as the bush when they are run, and when you do finally fit bearings they are a loose fit on the shaft. Plastic bushings should be considered as shaft supports for shelf models only.

i,ve already fully ball raced the car mate it was my first hop up.

cheers Karl

p.s you boys from down under certainly know your tamiya,s.

[FLEXUS]

hi guys

i,ve fitted my new superstock BZ motor, 13t hard pinion and mtroniks storm ESC today as well as giving the hotshot a good clean an re grease.

i,ve noticed the car no longer free wheels (can not push it by hand).is this due to the motor being more powerfull/stronger magnets??

nothing is binding in the drivetrain.

not been able to have a blast outside yet as its raining in manchester for a change.

cheers Karl

[wolfdogstinkus]

Yes that's normal, my brushed 19T motor used to make the rear wheels lock up and skid when you pushed it by hand

[94eg!]

This is called cogging. It's a testament to either the strength of fresh modern magnets.

Usually after some heat cycling, the magnets will weaken and the bearings will free up making the motor easier to back drive via the wheels.

[shenlonco]

Hi that's my video and yes it's faster than the stock silver can... but if i was you i would try the smallest pinion gear for your buggy it's 13 i think and try a duratrax photon speed 2 twenty turn motor they are good motor for $11.00 shipped on e-bay... It should blow the super shots stock motor away also.

and another good motor a hair slower then the duratrax is the elextric rc 20 turn for there staduim truck it has a built in cooling fan so with a smaller pinion it m,ay run cool and be very fast.


as for that tamiya motor in the super shot compaired to the ez run 9T 4300KV the ez run will blow it away by a looooong shot!

[FLEXUS]

Hi guys

now summer has briefly returned i gave the hotshot a quick blast and im pretty happy with the speed increase the BZ motor has over the silver can,plus it looks great without the foam cover.

i ran it on slightly damp grass and getting grip was a problem although good fun.

This is called cogging. It's a testament to either the strength of fresh modern magnets.

Usually after some heat cycling, the magnets will weaken and the bearings will free up making the motor easier to back drive via the wheels.

i take it this "cogging" then is a good thing then showing my motor has good magnets as the car drives fine at all speeds,it just does not free wheel/coast like it used to with the silvercan.

do the motors require oiling?(i take it they have bearings inside)

cheers Karl

[94eg!]

Cogging is a good thing, but it will ease up over time.

Yes, the bearings need oil. Just a small drop of bearing oil where the rotor shaft stick out of the end-bell. You can do the inside bearing too if you happen to pull the motor out of the car. They only need oil every once in a while. The Super Stock motors actually uses bushings rather than bearings for armature support (just like the stock 540). This generates a bit of extra friction/heat. You can increase efficiency & rpm by replaced them with motor ball-bearings if your comfortable with that kind of work. It's not really difficult.

Even still, a well kept cleaned & maintained bushing motor will last forever.

[FLEXUS]

Cogging is a good thing, but it will ease up over time.

Yes, the bearings need oil. Just a small drop of bearing oil where the rotor shaft stick out of the end-bell. You can do the inside bearing too if you happen to pull the motor out of the car. They only need oil every once in a while. The Super Stock motors actually uses bushings rather than bearings for armature support (just like the stock 540). This generates a bit of extra friction/heat. You can increase efficiency & rpm by replaced them with motor ball-bearings if your comfortable with that kind of work. It's not really difficult.

Even still, a well kept cleaned & maintained bushing motor will last forever.

alright 94eg

thanks for the advice.I,ll look into changing them for bearings.

are the super stock "bushings" the same brass ones as in the tamiya kits?

do you know what size they are? 850 or 1150 i take it?

i,ve also bought the commutator cleaning brush so i,ll run that when i replace the brushes.

just had another bash tonight i reckon the car is probably 50% faster now maybe faster as it struggles for grip on slightly damp grass.

think i prefer the braking system on the tamiya ESC though over the mtroniks tio storm as the storm goes straight into reverse when braking.

cheers Karl

[94eg!]

are the super stock "bushings" the same brass ones as in the tamiya kits?

do you know what size they are? 850 or 1150 i take it?

i,ve also bought the commutator cleaning brush so i,ll run that when i replace the brushes.

The bushings are a brass/bronze colored material, but I'm not exactly sure what they are. Very similar to Tamiya bushings yes. The size is not a metric size though. The standard rotor shaft is actually 1/8" so you would do best to find bearings specifically sized for brushed 540 motors. Here is one example:

http://www.trinityrc...&product_id=315

You could also pull bearings out of an old defunct motor (provided they are still smooth) if you have one handy.

Honestly the bushings will run fine. A little oil a couple times a year will get the job done. I wouldn't go to too much trouble to upgrade them.

Comm cleaning brushes do okay for keeping carbon buildup under control. But what they can't do is keep the comm round. Through use, the commuator actually takes on a triangualr shape that causes the brushes to ramp up and bounce. This needs to be taken care of before new brushes are installed. If you come to the point where it's time to replace the brushes, do yourself a favor and find someone to machine/true the commutator for you. This will renew the motor 99.9% providing a smooth surface for the new brushes to wear into. If you don't true the comm when re-brushing, you will experience accelerated wear of both the comm & brushes as they bounce & arc off one another.

[FLEXUS]

do yourself a favor and find someone to machine/true the commutator for you.

Hi mate

i,ve found somebody to turn the commutator.ME

I program and set CNC turning centers for a living.

if and when i can get any time free im gonna make a set of alloy wheels although the days of doin foreigners is very hard as we,re so busy.

This will renew the motor 99.9% providing a smooth surface for the new brushes to wear into. If you don't true the comm when re-brushing, you will experience accelerated wear of both the comm & brushes as they bounce & arc off one another.

i.ll have to take the motor apart and have a way up when im due to replace the brushes.i take it there is enough material on the commutator to do this a few times as i dont think much will have to be turned off to get it concentric again.

can that part of the motor be bought?

cheers Karl

[94eg!]

IF you take care of the motor, there is plenty of copper to run through quite a few sets of brushes. The trick is to skimm only what you need to make it round again. You usually run a sharpie over the copper as it spins. Then make very shallow passes till no black ink shows on the comm. I re-coat the comm with sharpie after each pass.

Some stock-motor racers used to true their comms after every race. Kinda a waste for a small boost in performance.