14 replies to this topic

[dragnse7en]

Hi there everyone

Yet again, another restore and rebuild thread. This time, I believe that it's the Team Associated RC10 Championship Edition buggy.

I am pretty sure that the chassis I bought is indeed a CE edition, but then again, I've been surprised and proven wrong before.

This time, I think I want to add some non-CE era features to this project.





I really like the newer front wide white arms on this one so far. I will most likely need advice and help with this edition, because I don't know all that came in this kit BITD.

Also, those un-used stealth transmission holes in the chassis seem so tempting. I have a B3 Stealth from my cousin, but I'm not certain if it would be appropriate for this project.

I'm currently at a standstill on this restore/ update/ rebuild project, because I'm also rebuilding my rally car, and my workbench is too full and I have no room to start until the rally car's finished.

Looking at the pictures above, the car is missing quite a few things. All the parts I ordered are new or in new condition. Here's what I have ordered for it so far:

Front jellybean 3-piece wheels with Cadillac era 4 rib tires - they're in super great shape, looking at the pics.
The kit's steering linkage, with the kit's correct turnbuckle, with new condition screws, washers, and nylon nuts.
The white nylon servo mount blocks.
Front and rear gold shocks; the rear shocks are the older, external load ones, and I will be replacing the front's top caps with gold ones. The fronts are the internal loading ones.
A set of battery cups and straps.
A new stainless steel screw set.
A new Kimbrough servo saver, made for the original RC10.
A white whip antenna.
A world's car carbon fiber tranny brace.
A white stealth tranny.
A gold motor mount. The stealth comes with a black one, which I won't use. I have a spare gold motor mount, but someone drilled a bunch of crazy holes thru it before I got my hands on it, so i won't use it.

I have hunted down all the other parts needed to complete the car, and the things I don't have are on my wish list. One of the things on the list is a set of MIP CVDs, because I intend to race this.

I'm at odds with the type of body to get for it. Since this won't totally be a stock chassis, I am leaning towards either old skool vintage or something that came out after the CE. It will either be the original Protech buggy body (I have four AE foglights to mount to it), or the Mirage body - not the turbo one, the one without the side scoop.

Stay tuned for more later down the road!

[dragnse7en]

So, as of this post, I'm waiting for another batch of parts I ordered for this build. My first big batch came in the mail last week, and included with it is the stealth transmission I plan on restoring, and possibly upgrading to the 2.65:1 RPM set. I'll definitely be making my own custom mods to it, because BITD I learned a couple of tricks when I had my 1st gen RC10T.

I can go with two options on this; keep the original stealth configuration, and replace the top shaft and slipper assy with B4 parts, or go with the RPM aftermarket option. There's an advantage and disadvantage to both:

1. If I add the B4's top shaft and slipper unit, the tranny will still have the original 2.25:1 gear ratio, and seems to me to be too low for today's brushless motor applications. However, the B4's slipper pad has a much larger surface area, and to me would make a lot of sense to use with a BL setup.

2. If I use the RPM stealth conversion, it will sort of be the opposite of the things mentioned above - the gear ratio will be very close to the B4 version, but the slipper unit will be the same, have less surface area, and may possibly slip out easier than the B4 unit.

Either way, I'm not too concerned about either disadvantage, because I can always tune the car with the right gearing and slipper adjustment in either case.

I took the tranny apart, minus the diff itself, to see what I have to work with. It came with a black motor mount, and that will be replaced with a nice gold one.



What I found a little strange, shown in the pic above, is the slipper pad. I know AE made them orange, and this isn't a factory part. Despite being glazed, and in need to be re-conditioned (cleaned and lightly scuffed up), the material doesn't feel like what I remember as a slipper pad at all. I did have the Losi Hyrda Drive conversion BITD, and I think I remember their slipper pad was a lot like what you see above, but then again, I could be wrong.



Above, the outdrives look like they've seen better days. They are rusted and have wear, but I had to run my fingers along the inside edges to feel how worn they are, and the slots are actually still straight and not gouged out. After I clean them up, I'll take a second look at them to determine whether or not I need to replace them. My best option I see so far are the RC10GT outdrives - correct me if they won't work, but I believe that they're interchangeable.



The pic shown above is missing the end cap/ plug that sits next to the end of the top shaft. That part is becoming a painful search to replace, and this is the main reason that I would opt for the RPM upgrade.

Of course, I will be replacing that spur gear with a brand new Robinson Racing 48p gear set. I'll buy the same tooth gear as whatever came stock with the kit for now, and tune the tranny from there.

So, some time around the middle of January, I'll post the restoration and mods of what you see above.

Stay tuned and thanks for looking

[dragnse7en]

Okay -

I've made a decision on the tranny.

It shall be the factory stealth transmission. I just bought a tranny case on eBay that has the plug/ cap that covers the end of the top shaft. For a substitute, I also got a neoprene rubber gasket from a B2/B3 tranny to protect the space between the motor mount, top shaft, and gear case from dirt and debris.

Also, on its way, are the B4 top shaft and a complete slipper assy.

I lucked out with the tranny case, b/c two old skool white tear-drop shaped wing button mounts were included in that auction. Nice!

Stay tuned for more my friends . . .

[dragnse7en]

A new twisting update for this old skool project - an old skool Team Losi Hydra Drive complete conversion set, which will certainly be added to this project. Bonus!!!!

[dragnse7en]

Here's the finished transmission, for now. I want new diff balls for it, but it's otherwise clean and it runs smooth.

[dragnse7en]

Here's the most recent update for this build -

I got brand-spanking new diff rings, diff outdrives, a whole thrust washer, bearing and screw set, and new carbide diff balls. The parts are all now installed, and it makes a huge difference.

The chassis was unusable, so I searched around and found a much better one, and it came with a ball bearing steering system. I think it's from RPM, but I'm not entirely too sure. I usually like the looks of a bare gold nose, but it came with a black RPM noseguard that fits the look of the rest of the car.

The chassis came very clean, with the same white reinforced "X" rear arms that I wanted to use. I didn't take the time to clean the old ones. so they're going in the spares box along with anything else I've found salvageable off the other chassis. The only broken part on the newer chassis was a bent hinge pin in the rear, which has now since been replaced. It also came with the factory team carbon fiber shock towers - a wicked nice bonus!

I need a whole set of turnbuckles for this car, which I still don't have yet, and I might as well pick up some dust covers and ball cups while I'm at it. Other than that, it will soon be able to drive. I have the wing and wire mounting set and body, and I'm still thinking of a paint scheme. I have three different ideas right now, and all I need to do is pick up the paints when I decide.

When I got the chassis, I added my own shocks, transmission, and ball bearings. I also used a stainless steel screw kit on the car, and swapped out almost every screw.

While I'm looking for turnbuckles, I'm going to keep my eyes out for a titanium set as another hop-up option.







Thanks for looking and stay tuned for more!

[RichieRich]

I've heard you can use a Losi hydradrive topshaft with the RPM transmission and use the B4 slipper. I haven't verified that. BTW, there are two versions of stealth slippers that fit the 2.25 transmission. There's the original and there's the bigger version that came with the B3/T3. I use the bigger one with the stock and the RPM 2.65 transmissions.

[dragnse7en]

The Losi top shaft won't work with the RPM 2.65 tranny. That upgrade pack comes with its own top shaft, which has less teeth than the Losi/AE one has, and the tranny case included is molded with different hole positions for it. The instructions call out to use the existing idler gear and diff from the 2.25 stealth.

I know that the B4 slipper will work with the Losi Hydra Drive top shaft - I test fitted it, but the shaft is slotted for the impeller/torque converter and I would go with the AE B4 top shaft anyway, since it's a little longer (I was concerned about the slipper spring not compressing enough).

I just moved on the 1st Friday of this month, and the CE is sitting on the workbench along with my helis. I just need the titanium turnbuckle set, the front wheel bearings, and some polycarb spraypaint, and it'll be finished. I got a new Mirage body for it - just like Brian Kinwald's car, without the turbo air intake on the side (they used to mount the esc there, and that scoop helped it breath better under the body). Not the turbo mirage, just the regular mirage body set.

I see you opted for Masami's front shock tower on yours - or is that the RC10T's part you've got on it?

[RichieRich]

I have two builds (with a third on the workbench) that are RC10s with more updated parts so that I can drive them.

This car http://www.tamiyaclu...d=100809&sid=18 has a carbon fiber shock tower set like the Worlds RC10, A&L steering, RPM transmission, B3 slipper, CVDs and wheels.

This car http://www.tamiyaclu...id=97481&sid=18 has the RPM Worlds shock tower but in carbon fiber. I ordered it from Fibre Lyte. It also has the B4, slipper, wheels and longer suspension arms all around to accomodate the B4 wheel offset.

The third build which I haven't uploaded any pics yet since it's not finished has the RPM transmission, B3 slipper and will have longer suspension arms to take advantage of B4 wheels.

[dragnse7en]

Not bad - I like them both! I was shopping around on eBay for some pinup stickers, but I had no luck; they were either too big or wouldn't specify a size.

I'm building this project to become a runner/ racer. I know it's heavier than the newer buggies out there on the track, but at least this thing is bulletproof. My cousin let me borrow his B3 a while back, and I ended up replacing the front arms - wow - the newer ones do not like crashing at all

Anyway, this project will be on hiatus for a bit, and I'll pick back up on it after I repair three of my helis. The last time I drove my rc cars was this past winter, w/ my ballistic TA02 BL conversion.

Thanks for the links - they both look great!

[dragnse7en]

Building, building, measuring, trimming, cleaning . . . . . .

The stock wing tubes must go. I shall add a custom "Masuski" rear wing with dubro collars or something similiar.

I'm also not too comfy with the rear treads - although they are AE dubs, I think I want some Silver Losi 2.0 Step Pins mounted instead. Stay tuned. . . . .

[dragnse7en]

Alrighty then!!!!!!!!!!

My project is finally finished! I took out the battery cup and brace and I'm using double-sided tape to secure the lipo pack. There are a small handful of loose ends to tie up before it hits the track, but I won't bore you with the menial stuff

I used a Mirage SS body and wing from TBG to finish off my kit, and decided to paint it the same way I painted my old RC10T back in the day The paint scheme is the same, but I gave the sticker layout a more modern look and feel, although some of the stickers are vintage (the AE ones on the bottom sides). I saw a cool B4 body that had cool side windows, so I did the same thing, and in this case with black and bright blue. My custom window trim is two rolls of Pactra Trim Tape, and the blue screen is a painted plastic window screen painted with leftover blue I had for this scheme.

I also like the custom look of some of the old wing mounts and did my own custom job. I used a couple of #4 aluminum washers and some Dubro 4-40 threaded couplers, then bent and trimmed the BRP wing wire kit, and then finally mounted and soldered the wire ends into each coupling. The wing won't go anywhere now!! Two nylon locking nuts now hold it all in place.

The giant blue Vans sticker on the wing grabs my eye every time I look at the car - I can't stop looking at it!

So, here it is! -








Thanks everyone for helping me with the resources that I needed to finish this project! And again - thanks for looking too

PS - If I get some video of it at one of the races I'll post it here!

[RichieRich]

Excellent build! I like the solution to the wing mount. Looks great!

[dragnse7en]

Thank you!

[dragnse7en]

Some more pics of it - finished, tested and RTR!!!! It's loud - I forgot how much older cars were whiny lol