26 replies to this topic

[atf300]

how do i solder the esc wires to a motor like this, i also have enough 4mm gold plugs so i could rig them in between . or should i just solder directly ?

[WillyChang]

if hardwiring is ok for you, just poke tinned wire thru the hole & reflow some solder

these days you can also buy small "male" bullet connectors that you can solder into those 3 holes
then you can plug in a hobbywing style ESC which have female bullet plugs

[atf300]

i do have males as well , so ill do that then

thank you !

[WillyChang]

its a special male connector with a tail sized to fit snugly into the hole btw

[atf300]

mine look like this . the're standard 4mm golds .

guess they are no good then

[WillyChang]

those are for inline wiring

there's some new connectors that you solder onto the motor tabs,
either to make it easier to solder wires onto or able to accept a female tube

[atf300]

one more question .

if i solder the wires that came with the esc directly to the motor , then split them and install 4mm bullets so it can be removable .will i do anything wrong . the thing is , that the combo will be going into the blitzer beetle and i want to route the wires trough the hole provided .

[WillyChang]

nah its all fine... best keep all 3 wires equal total length, especially with unsensored ESCs

that's the reason of the connector i'm talking about - you solder the little copper cylinder into the motor tab and it acts like a bullet connector without needing any tiny length of wire flex between motor & plug; you simply push the female bullet over it & your wires stay removable without unsoldering.

[atf300]

all done , had to extend the wires a bit since the esc and motor are a bit too close . i kept the wires the same length and also , the motor is sensored .

[chrisk5]

I like to solder straight to the motor. i have used the gold terminals in a pan car so the wires got to the motor straight and have no tweak in them. I think KO make them they come in 3 different lengths



But my TC for racing straight to the motor

[94eg!]

- Cut wire to desired length + ~1/8"
- Strip off an ~1/8" of the insulator on each wire
- Tin the ends of each wire full of solder
- Once cooled, take a pair of dykes (wire cutters) and clip the soldered ends twice each to make them into pointy wedge/spear shape
- Take one wire and stick it into the hole of the motor tab enough so it stays put
- Feed molten solder into the opposite side of the hole until it's smooth & flush

The solder should quickly fill the rest of the hole and melt into the wire as well. This happens almost instantly. Now let it cool and move onto the next wire. When your done, everything should look perfect.

The wire shouldn't stick through the hole. The wedge shape just kinda pokes into it The solder will fill any empty space and make a very solid connection. You can also tin the holes first to, and then feed both together while melting the tinned hole through the opposite side. This method only requires 2 hands and no additional solder feeding. Either way if you do it right, your wire insulation should butt right against the motor tabs on one side, and you will have perfectly smooth solder filling the holes on the other side. It's not that hard, it just takes practice.

Connectors are a waste of time. Just practice your soldering, and you will get really good ad swapping motors etc. You will actually enjoy custom wiring.

[94eg!]

Should look like this if you do it right:

[WillyChang]

& preferably not like this

[94eg!]

No way that's real wiring! lol

[94eg!]

Here's an image of MY own racer (415 MSXXxxx... Reinhard whatever). Doesn't help much as it's a brushed setup, but I figured I would bump this thread up. This pic was taken right after a complete rebuild a little over 2 years ago.

The postiive wire is one solid piece from the battery straight to the motor. There is only one small spot that's been stripped and soldered to the ESC's positive terminal as it passes by.

[chrisk5]

I like that when i seen the pic some time ago on RCTECH. good job.

My tamiya i have very similar (all blue wiring) thou. Gota love the 415

I have a 415MSX MRE as my VTA car, also a 416x and a 417x for TC

great job once again

[TA-Mark]

& preferably not like this

What's up with that?

The wires that are actually connected are all the right length. The 'mess of wires' piled up on top to make it look bad are not connected to anything.

Not sure what the bungee cords are for though.

[humbug]

The postiive wire is one solid piece from the battery straight to the motor. There is only one small spot that's been stripped and soldered to the ESC's positive terminal as it passes by.

Was just wondering if this gives any increase in performance? Should it always be the positive terminal? Also, would this affect things like schotky diodes or capacitors? Did you remove the positive motor connection from the esc completely?Cheers

[WillyChang]

most fwd-only ESCs switch thru the -ve only, the +ve is straight thru from battery.

Some ESCs only have 3 leads going to it... the +ve link to the ESC
can be made with skinny wire, it only carries enough current to power the electronics.
If your motor is closer to the battery than ESC, go the shorter distance with fat noodle.

There shouldn't be measurable difference between a solid piece of wire
and the same wire cut in middle with a properly soldered joint rejoining it.

[94eg!]

I like that when i seen the pic some time ago on RCTECH. good job.

My tamiya i have very similar (all blue wiring) thou. Gota love the 415

I have a 415MSX MRE as my VTA car, also a 416x and a 417x for TC

great job once again

Thanks for the nice words. Yeah I posed those pics on RCTech the next day after the rebuild. Man I love that car. Wish I was still into racing, but I have no time with work & family now. Plus my 1:1 scale car hobby is sucking up all funds.

More RC pics here: http://s125.photobuc...ms/p53/94eg/rc/

My 1:1 hobby:

Was just wondering if this gives any increase in performance? Should it always be the positive terminal? Also, would this affect things like schotky diodes or capacitors? Did you remove the positive motor connection from the esc completely?Cheers

Schotky's are supposed to be soldered directly to the motor (forward only ESC). I used to have one on there, but it was a pain. Plus it made the motor almost impossible to maintain. I didn't notice any performance/temp difference without it (27T stock racing). I do have the capacitor soldered to the +/- battery leads on the inside. The Tamiya VOLAC is just a blue KO Propo VFS-1 race ESC. KO sold this ESC under many different brands (Hot Bodies, Corally, Tamiya, Muchmore, Yokomo, and another green one I can't remember. Forward only ESCs only have 3 connectons where the positive motor & battery are the same thing as Willy said.

[humbug]

hmm interesting. I have one of these:



As you can see it has 4 leads. I was wondering if the pwer cap is really needed since I'm using 50C 5k mah lipos. Plus I was wonding if it would be a good idea to place the schottky diode on my leads so I can use this same motor with my reversable esc? (I've used deans connectors on the motor too so I can change motors at ease)

[WillyChang]

when u open up the case in that LRP you'll just find the motor & battery wire joined to the same track on PCB

[WillyChang]

Schotky's are supposed to be soldered directly to the motor (forward only ESC). I used to have one on there, but it was a pain. Plus it made the motor almost impossible to maintain. I didn't notice any performance/temp difference without it (27T stock racing).

only bothered putting Schottkys on the superhot motors like low turn Orion V2s, not the 27T rebuildables

there's zero benefit when ESC is 'on' power; but brakes did feel stronger & smoother

ran Novak Cyclones & a GT7 back then... can't recall them ever getting warm in use

[humbug]

Do you think there would be any point for a 15T then? I guess these diodes do nothing for glitching then right?

[94eg!]

No they don't. Just skip it. It's for low-turn racing where they were dumping 4200mah in 5-8 minutes (35-50amp AVERAGE continuous discharge). As you can imagine ESC temp was a major factor cause they typically didn't use thermal protection. Top Level racers would rather burn up the ESC in a race rather than "thermal" and drop out early.