A couple clod crawler questions
Started by Daves956, Aug 16 2012 02:48 AM
32 replies to this topic
#26
Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:37 PM
if you ever run a lipo in a power hungry application you'll ask yourself why you never switched before.
You can run 1 lipo and 1 BL motor in a txt for example and be faster and longer run times than you ever could with nimh
You can run 1 lipo and 1 BL motor in a txt for example and be faster and longer run times than you ever could with nimh
#27
Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:57 PM
if you ever run a lipo in a power hungry application you'll ask yourself why you never switched before.
You can run 1 lipo and 1 BL motor in a txt for example and be faster and longer run times than you ever could with nimh
+1
I just fitted a castle creations 4600kv motor in my blitzer and the 3000mah ni-mh batteries were struggling to power it, it flies with a 2s lipo and is almost uncontrollable with the 3s lipo. The lipo's are 5000mah, I don't think I have flattened one in one run yet.
I mainly bash in the car park while I sneak out for a sneaky ciggarette at night time, when I work out how many ciggarette's it takes to flatten a lipo, I will let you know.
E2A: In my opinion* It does provide more torque as well so it might help a crawler.*The better power delivery allows the motor to provide more torque.
#28
Posted 20 August 2012 - 11:46 PM
Not very long ago I had over 20 different transmitters and 7 different power plug types. I also had 5 cars with multiple batteries. With the exception of the shelf queens and my daughters cars, it's now 4 transmitters and 3 power plug types and 0 with multiple batteries. I learned that simpler is better and standardizing as much as you can makes it so much more fun. This crawler uses the same type transmitter as the semi. so it's not even a new control to get used to and easy to justify having spare parts. When all the switching over is finished I hope to have all the batterys, ESCs and radio gear so standardized that only a bad mechanical crash can sideline any car. The cars I have that are fast enough to hurt themselves have loads of spare parts already.
Being able to top off the battery and go drive any variety is so much more fun than fussing over them. This crawler was added to the collection because it was a different type I didn't have and it's really fun to drive. Now it's simple to maintain too. I think it and the Mattracks will be fun in the snow as well.
Being able to top off the battery and go drive any variety is so much more fun than fussing over them. This crawler was added to the collection because it was a different type I didn't have and it's really fun to drive. Now it's simple to maintain too. I think it and the Mattracks will be fun in the snow as well.
#29
Posted 22 August 2012 - 10:22 PM
Well it's 5000 MAH single battery, Two Hitech high torque metal gear servos, two Integy 55 turn motors, two Tazer 15 T escs and a Tactic TTX404 radio. I'm going to try out the other tires just for fun. Under it is some of the connector carnage, 14 pairs of just Tamiya ones to be tossed out.
#31
Posted 28 August 2012 - 03:42 AM
Just a couple of improvements. I replaced all the links and shortened the wheel base by 4.5 inches. It's now 13 inches. Swapped out the shocks and gave it another 1/2 inch of travel. I looked at all the steering options for sale and didn't really like any of them so I made the servo bracket to fit how I wanted and it works really well. I made 2 brackets so the rear gets the same treatment. There's no more flex in it and the axle protects it.
On carpet it's new turning radius is 3 feet, on a harder surface I can spin it almost in place using reverse and forward at the same time.
On carpet it's new turning radius is 3 feet, on a harder surface I can spin it almost in place using reverse and forward at the same time.
#32
Posted 05 September 2012 - 09:21 PM
I had a play a couple of years ago mixing up clod steering. In the end I modified the transmitter, it was a 4 channel and I used seperate channels for each servo, I then piggy backed the wiring from the appropriate pots inside the transmitter so that 1 stick movement controlled 2 servos - on separate channels. by fitting a remote switch to the servo reverse on the rear steering, I could switch between 'normal' and 'crab' steering.
I did write it up in a tutorial on here but like I said it was a while ago
Theres a highlighted version here - http://ukrcrc.com/fo...t=1907&start=30
hope this helps with ideas, I was going to do exactly the same with the throttle as well so that I could have switchable 'dig' - I'll do it someday lol
Found it! http://www.tamiyaclu...=91993&id=24931
I did write it up in a tutorial on here but like I said it was a while ago
Theres a highlighted version here - http://ukrcrc.com/fo...t=1907&start=30
hope this helps with ideas, I was going to do exactly the same with the throttle as well so that I could have switchable 'dig' - I'll do it someday lol
Found it! http://www.tamiyaclu...=91993&id=24931
I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder.
#33
Posted 06 September 2012 - 12:22 AM
This is on a flight stick with a V tail function. If I hold both sticks into the corner on power up it combines the steering for me. I've found that the dig I need varies with how steep the incline is. It's also nice to be able to pull the rear to the left or right and dig with the front. I don't think I'd like the throttles any different. It's been hard to learn but I'm getting better with it.
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