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Mannyp1980

TT-01E Rally Conversion

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Hi Guys,

I have been pondering this for a while. I have a TT-01 rolling chassis that I am not using at all. I have decided to convert it to a rally car.

So higher ground clearance is the main priority. What length Shocks should I get?

I wanted to know if anyone on these forums has done the conversion before and what pitfalls I should look out for.

I have already got bearings, Alu main shaft, Tamiya adjustable upper arms for it. Tamiya Rally Block tyres on the way. What other rally tyres should I also consider?

I am gonna try to make a type of dust/splash cover for the internals. I know that they need air circulating over the electronics to cool them, but I am planning on getting a motor heatsink with a fan and a fan for the esc, if they get too hot.

Speed is not the biggest concern right now. Just want to be able to thrash it in the grass and dirt a bit. So gonna keep the standard silver can and TEU-105BK esc.

Anything else I should look at, Other Hop ups? Alu lower arms? Alu knuckles?

Sorry for so many questions at once. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys

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Sounds like a good project!

The TT-01 isn't the most obvious choice for a rally conversion, but it can work really well in this role with a bit of work. This is mine:

DSC03952_zpseoxmd3cv.jpg

I started off with a used chassis in rather good condition, which had originally been built with parking lot racing in mind. In preparation for the conversion I disassembled the car completely and gave everything a good cleaning, so that I had what amounted to an unbuilt kit of parts.

The first modification I made was to cut away small sections of both front and rear B6 parts (the braces that go under the gearboxes, keeping the bulkheads in place). This allows the suspension to deflect further downwards. I didn't need to cut away much - I just trimmed where the lower suspension arms contacted the parts, until I had enough droop.

The second mod I did was to take the four SB4 outdrives and remove the protruding flanges. This I did by putting them in a drill press and holding a file to the spinning parts until the flanges were filed flush with the rest of the part. This was done to stop the flanges hitting the wishbones when the suspension is at full droop. Incidentally, this mod also removes some rotating mass from the drivetrain, improving performance. (If you don't fancy trimming the outdrives, you could simply replace them with DF02 outdrives which are supplied flange-free.)

The shocks were next to receive some attention. I decided to use Tamiya plastic Mini CVA shocks on the car, as they can be built quite long and give a nice smooth ride without costing a fortune. They also don't show scratches, unlike anodised alloy shocks that start to look a bit tatty after a while.

I built the shocks with small internal spacers, and used Yokomo ends on the shafts. The shock length is the means by which one sets the cars ride height, so they are pretty much a case of personal preference. More ride height = softer landings, but it makes the car easier to roll when cornering. It is just a case of experimenting to find the best setting for your driving style.

The extra travel that one gets from the mods described above means that the stock plastic steering links (part B1) are not up to the job by any means, as they limit your suspension travel. If you haven't done so already, now is the time to make up some adjustable ones using a bit of 3mm threaded rod (a bolt with the head cut off works well) and the four spare shock shaft ends that came with the Mini CVA shocks. These clip onto ball links that you screw into parts A7 and A1.

The diffs in my car were originally built to run very free, and only had a little thin oil in them for lubrication. However for rallying on gravel and sand, something a bit tighter is recommended, so that you dont lose out on performance when one wheel loses traction and all your drive suddenly gets transferred to it. The old drifter trick of using fuel tubing on part MA11 makes them a bit too stiff, but packing them full of AW grease seems to work well.

At this point I added my usual selection of TT01 go-faster goodies to the mix. These are again a matter of personal preference, and depend on how mild or wild you want your car to be. I chose to use the following, for the following reasons:

· Sealed bearing kit, for ease of maintenance and less drive train friction, resulting in more speed and longer runtimes.

· Aluminium prop shaft, as the standard one tends to vibrate at speed if you use anything faster than a standard Johnson 540 motor.

· Motor heat sink, to keep the motor cooler and prolong its life.

· Metal motor mount, to further help with cooling and to overcome the classic TT01 wobbly motor syndrome.

· Carbon chassis brace, for added rigidity and robustness.

· FXX long axles and hexes all round, to widen the track slightly for better cornering stability.

· 2 degree toe-in rear hub carriers, for improved straight-line stability.

· 58-tooth spur and 25-tooth pinion for taller gearing.

With regards to the gearing, one can go all the way to 55/25, but as the courses for rallying are typically quite tight and technical, I thought it better to sacrifice a bit of top end for the sake of punchy acceleration. Gear ratios are easily adjusted though, and also depend on the motor you choose for your car. For example, a Johnson-equipped rally car seems to work well with around a 61/20 ratio.

I considered putting adjustable upper wishbones on the car, but decided to stick with the stock items as they are stronger, and cheaper to replace if they do break. Rally cars have to be tough, and also cheap and easy to fix, as they are probably going to take a bit of a hammering on the course. As a clubmate said, "A basic guideline for a rally car is to keep it simple. The wear and tear is extreme, so dont put expensive components into the car."

The final step on the chassis was to stone-proof it. The TT01 already has all the gears sealed, so the main areas that need protection are the driveshaft and steering mechanism. It is also a good idea to find a way to keep stones and other debris from collecting in the tub and weighing the car down, and some protection on the underside might also be wise if you want to keep it looking neat.

To stone-proof the driveshaft, I initially made it a cover out of transparent plastic overhead projector sheet. This I secured with double-sided tape. It worked satisfactorily, but when a stone did manage to work its way in there, it was a real pain to get it out again. I have since removed this cover, as it was more hassle than it was worth.

To stop debris from getting into the tub, I first tried a set of lexan mudguards. These didnt work at all, so I instead opted for a cotton fabric cover that fits over the entire tub. The cover is elasticised front and rear and attaches to the tub sides with Velcro. A piece of foam cut to fit around the front driveshaft cup and steering mechanism keeps debris clear of this area.

20140428_205014_zpspapob8va.jpg

This solution works really well. The fabric is breathable to facilitate motor and ESC cooling, but it keeps stones and dust at bay. I find it works even better if I dampen it with water before running the car, as this lets it trap more dust, and further helps with cooling.

To protect the underside, I first covered it in a layer of fibreglass tape, which I followed with a layer of black duct tape, doubling up on the front over the area where the three screws attach part B6 to part A2. I know from experience with off-road buggies that it is important to protect screw heads that might otherwise be worn down or clogged with debris, making disassembly of the car rather tricky.

Cover%20003_zpspakp0npo.jpg

To finish off the chassis I added a waterproof LRP ESC, a 19-turn rebuildable LRP Rally Special motor (rebuildability being important in rallying as motors can get a bit mucky and need regular cleaning of their innards) and a water-resistant Spektrum receiver.

I then fitted that car with appropriate wheels and tyres. I used Tamiya Rally Blocks, which are easy to find, not ridiculously expensive, and provide a good compromise between grip on tar and gravel. These were mounted on a set of 2mm offset rims. The less offset you can get away with, the less bending stress is placed on your axles when you land after a jump, although more offset = wider track = less chance of rolling. Compromises, compromises...

I think a rally chassis deserves a bodyshell that represents a full-size rally car, and my LHS happened to have HPIs Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VI bodyshell in stock at a reasonable price, so thats what is covering my chassis at the moment. What shell do you have planned?

I look forward to reading more about your project as it progresses. Good luck, and be sure to keep us posted!

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This is great, totally following...

I have my old TT-01 VIP Porsche 911 GT3 and have yet to finish the darn thing! I've built up the chassis but, something was holding me back—just never really like matte black "ohh I'm a VIP" drive on tarmac look.

I have something up my Art Director's sleeve…

In my typical design my own fashion, I prefer to create stickers with a real livery theme. I have decided to go rallye style with this. The 997 911 GT3 is a proper rallye spec these days too, just makes sense. Time to pick up some spare VIP 911GT3 body sets...

Thanks for the inspiration and tips guys! Look for some cool designs soon, not necessarily this, but this is what I'm talking about...

Cheers, Thompson

22507135528_31a7656948_b.jpg

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Wow, thanks XV Pilot, that was really informative and helpful.

I have not decided on a shell yet, I currently have a HPI Zonda body sitting on it that I am gonna bash the heck out of.

I was my first try at painting a shell, so not that great. So it is gonna get re-purposed as a rally body.

I've always been a fan of the Rally cars from the 80's, especially the Audi Quattros. If I could find 2 of those it would be awesome. One to bash and one for Shelf Queen status.

I'm considering a Lancia 037 or Delta Integrale or Stratos Also Lancer Evo or Bug eye Subaru.

And after seeing StudioRS post, I was drawn to the old Porsche 959 they used for the Dakar.

So many choices, so little money. :P

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Krickey, wish these were available across the pond here… Although, they are available via eBay UK :)

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If you are a fan of Quattros and painting isn't your thing, how about topping it with one of these?

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/carisma-audi-rallye-quattro-pre-painted-bodyshell/rc-car-products/367478

Krickey, wish these were available across the pond here… Although, they are available via eBay UK :)

Those are amazing, to bad they don't ship to my country. I guess I'll have to be ebaying.

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Another good choice, with a couple of options from different manufacturers/sellers. Hopefully one will ship to your country. Which country is that BTW?

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@Mannyp1980 — The Datsun 240Z would be awesome! Drop some LED lights in the front light pod, so cool.

Datsun 240Z Rallye Body Set - Tamiya Nr. 51407

Real deal.

60ef3791a6bfcf503ba7b4600572f1a0.jpg

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Another good choice, with a couple of options from different manufacturers/sellers. Hopefully one will ship to your country. Which country is that BTW?

I live in Namibia, in the capital called Windhoek.

@Mannyp1980 — The Datsun 240Z would be awesome! Drop some LED lights in the front light pod, so cool.

Datsun 240Z Rallye Body Set - Tamiya Nr. 51407

Real deal.

60ef3791a6bfcf503ba7b4600572f1a0.jpg

That Diorama looks absolutely amazing, the detail is so realistic. Its like it almost real.

:P:D

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So I have been feeling under the weather lately, sick as a dog. But I did manage to start my rally conversion.

With the advice I got from you awesome guys at the forums, I started with modifying the from lower arms.

Before:

Front%20lower%20arm%20before.jpg

After:

Front%20lower%20arm%20After.jpg

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Then I modified the Front and rear Diff cups. Shave just a little off the front ones so they clear the arms.

front%20drive%20cup.jpg

The Rear ones needed a lot more to be shaved off.

Rear%20drive%20cup.jpg

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Manny, looking good, I'm following your progress on this TT-01 rallye build.

Have you decided on a body yet? Keep posting photos!

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Manny, here's a little tip on pics. Since you are using PB, paste the IMG code next to your pics in your comments so the pics show and not a hyperlink.

Rally%20Rear%201.jpg

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Now I am just waiting for the Rally tires to arrive.

I have not decided on a body yet. But probably gonna be a Scooby or Lan Evo.

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Manny, here's a little tip on pics. Since you are using PB, paste the IMG code next to your pics in your comments so the pics show and not a hyperlink.

Thanks for the tip, gonna fix those posts now.

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Hi Guys,

I have come to the conclusion that I would like to use a Subaru body on my rally car.

I am looking for a Bug eye scooby.

Scooby%201.jpg

Scooby%202.jpg

Do you guys know of any one who makes these for 1/10 on-road or off road?

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Hi Guys,

I have come to the conclusion that I would like to use a Subaru body on my rally car.

I am looking for a Bug eye scooby.

Scooby%201.jpg

Scooby%202.jpg

Do you guys know of any one who makes these for 1/10 on-road or off road?

Errr, Tamiya? :)

tamiya_58273_zpsmkggzojh.jpg

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Errr, Tamiya? :)

tamiya_58273_zpsmkggzojh.jpg

Ok, now I feel dumb. Why did I not know about this. Now a better question would be, where can I find just the body?

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