TWINSET

Make this;

 

 

It gets interesting at 2:39!

 

Generally, for crawling, you want solid axles as they force the chassis up and out of the way when the suspension cycles - IS means one wheel goes high but everything else stays low, causing fouling on chassis, diff etc.

 

It all depends on how much articulation you're after though, what terrain you'll be crawling, where you want the centre of gravity etc.

 

Don't get too engrossed in having loads of suspension articulation though - when crawlers were first 'marketed' having the front axle twist perpendicular to the rear axle looked great, but it caused a lot of problems with wheels dropping into holes etc.

 

The action of the suspension is just as important - if you're driving over uneven ground, you don't have to have all the wheels totally follow the terrain as, if the 'diffs' are locked, having a tyre in mid-air isn't a complete disadvantage if the other three tyres have traction - you could stop the wheel that's in mid air, or run it at reduced speed once it detects it's not under any load, so it will at least realise when it's back on the ground.

The original thread was locked because we were told we couldn't mention Kamtec's name on this forum any longer. 

The original thread wasn't locked, there was a request posted that repro goods were no longer discussed.
 
In the thread you originally started you posted that you'd no longer try contacting Keith, so please either sort it out with Kamtec or leave it - their contact details are easy enough to find, I suggest you start with a Google search.
 

I will not bother contacting Kamtec. Though I cannot imagine what "side" of any "story" there could possibly be, it's done. And after dealing with that "Other" repro company, I can easily say Kamtec is out of my mind for good

 

Most companies etc. will upset someone at some point, but it's good to hear when people are happy with them too -  thanks Lawdog for the original post

I'd forgotten about the BDII
Reminds me of an early Nissan Patrol for some reason

 

 

Just seen on the interweb;

 

Experience the thrill of life in the bus lane as grannies risk all to be crowned Queen of the Mountain.

Viewer discretion advised.

Contains scenes of incontinence and a handbag fight.

 

 

 

 

the trick to avoiding import duty is to use the cheapest slowest postage option, as soon as you use the express shipping option it goes via a large courier company that is tied directly to customs and excise ,  ups for instance have customs officers  from many countries working at their depots , if you use the cheaper option you wont get stung

This is not the case - there is no guaranteed way to avoid import duty - posts like this aren't helpful..
Even the slowest parcels are subject to import duty otherwise everything that comes into the UK on a boat would be duty free
Stella's 'slow' service comes through the UK via Royal Mail, their faster service uses Parcel Force

Anyone considering importing goods into the UK from outside Europe should check HMRC's website and make sure they know the charges they may have to pay before importing - on average, the fees are around 23% of the total price paid, plus a fee to the carrier for clearing the package through customs - Royal Mail/ParcelForce handle a lot of the domestic imports unless the sender uses UPS/DHL etc, and Royal Mail/ParcelForce charge £8-£13 depending on whether the parcel was sent standard (£8) OR Express (£13)

To minimize the charges, a lot of Far East companies will declare the value of the goods at a far lower value than the price you actually paid, but even then you'll sometimes get charged on the shipping costs - Import duty and VAT are charged on the total - Cost of goods + Shipping costs
Try this for the wosrt case scenario; Duty Calculator

I imported a CC01 Jeep from Stella and got stung, even though I opted for their lowest price shipping.
Shipping from Hong Kong/Japan/Korea certainly does seem the safer way to go in order to avoid import charges, but there is no guaranteed way to avoid import duty simply by using a slow shipping service - the only way imports will not attract charges is if the value of the goods declared on the export paperwork is below the UK threshold for attracting duty and taxes.
Do some proper research before importing, don't believe everything you read on the internet!


HMRC Website

Do you think a longer wheelbase with a longer body is needed to have a scaler?

Doesn't hurt;




http://www.tamiyaclu...111077&sid=4292

Ford F-250 Super Duty Cab Clear Body for 12.3" (313mm) Wheelbase Crawlers
Product ID : 3392-00

This is a Ford F-250 Super Duty Cab Clear Body for the Axial SCX10 Trail Honcho. Pro-Line has a brand new body for all of the Scale Crawler fans: a Licensed Ford F-250 Super Duty Cab for the SCX10 Trail Honcho! The Honcho is a sweet looking Scale vehicle because of the built in cage in the rear and will look even tougher with F-250 Super Duty cab on the front. The Super Duty has a Bold and Iconic Ford grill that will announce to all the other trucks on the trail that you mean business! If you want to transform the look of your Honcho, this Ford Super Duty is the one to get!

Features:

• Licensed Ford F-250 Super Duty body for your Honcho
• Bold and Tough Ford styling
• Made from durable / genuine Lexan®

What's Included:

• Clear Lexan® F-250 Cab Trail Honcho Body
• Decal sheet
• Window masks included
• Paint-then-peel overspray film included

Spec:
Length:     12.0" (305mm)
Chassis     7.4" (188mm)
Height:     5.8" (147mm)
Wheel Base: N/A

i do like the idea of anonymous voting and no comments.  mainly just to focus on the spirit of the task at hand.  but it's probably not worth doing any special coding to accomplish this.  and to respond to TWINSET on the efficacy of anonymous voting, yes there would definitely be a loophole way to discover who is behind each entry, but this would involve enough effort to discourage people from side-stepping the rules.  people's laziness should not be underestimated!

It's not so much people's laziness in not bothering to find out the identity of the entrant, more entrants trying to bypass or accidentally bypassing the anonymity
Plus, the anonymity effectively excludes old photographs as the older the pic the more chance it has of being recognised, thereby bypassing anonymity
If everyone else is anonymous and one person isn't because the had to use an old pic - what happens then? we remove their entry because their busted knee means they can't go out and take pictures?

So someone not being totally anonymous would be just as big an issue.


In the past, pretty much every aspect of a photo-based comp has been complained about
Camera quality - only the rich will win etc.
Interpretation of theme
Action shots excluding shelf queens, concourse shots excluding bashers etc.
Use of image manipulation - "not everyone can afford/learn to use Photoshop"
Locational or seasonal advantage - We had a Mad Max comp - there were genuine complaints before voting that the Aussie entries would have the edge - as fate would have it an Aussie did win, but with a hellish good pic - What won that comp - pic or nationality?

Couple more Clods in gravy

And every now and then, it's necessary to cheat, although this only really works on 4WD cars without a centre diff

Post-photoshop



What was removed


Where it went

Found a couple more I quite like




Sticking with the 'it doesn't need to be a great picture' excuse



Action, just not fast action

The only one I know to avoid is Yodel - terrible reliability for collections, even Amazon have dropped them now
City Link have always been good as far as my parcels go, but never had any dealings with Hermes.

Been after a 'fixed' USB hub for ages now - tried a few extension leads with bases but the power coming out at the socket wasn't always sufficient to charge from - My iPhone and Nexus 7 in particular wouldn't charge from the really cheap M/F leads although they were usually market for either card readers or WiFi dongles.

Browsing Amazon for a lead for an external HDD, this popped up in related items so I took a punt
Link to Hub

It works great - it connects to 2 USB ports on my PC, so will charge my phone now plus, as it's fitted in the desk, it stays in one place :-)

It needs a 60mm hole in the desk, but a lot of cable routing grommets are 60mm diameter, so they chose a 'standard' size.
My desk didn't have a hole which meant I had to make one, but at least it's within easy reach now.

The hub is in two parts; the trim ring and the central puck.
The puck pops out of the ring by pressing two barbs on the puck. Removing the puck means cables with larger plugs or those large ferrite blocks can be passed through the ring easily.
For instance; with the puck in place, a monitor plug wouldn't fit through the cable hole.

The cable to the hub has two standard USB plugs and 3.5mm audio plugs for headphones and mic.

I also bought a 60mm holesaw and initially the hub is a sloppy fit, but a shim made out of a 20mm sliver of Amazon box made it snug. I can now remove plugs an the hub stays put.

Cropping a pic makes a lot of difference too;