Tamiya Rere B.A.R. Honda Hotshot Evo III

There's a lot to tell about the car, and it's now on Evo III. So please check out the link to the Hotshot Evo II and Evo I versions for full info if you're interested.

This is what I've changed from Evo II:
1 ) From B/L to brushed (In NVC the rules state max 19T brushed for this class). Now using 13T pinion (lowest possible), Hobbywing Quicrun ESC and 19T brushed motor. I bet that'll be faster than with a 13.5 turn B/L since the brushless is 'geared lower' and you can't gear the transmission up more. I'll never again use those standard Tamiya ESCs - they overheat and shut down even when using a Sport Tuned!
2 ) Sway bars front and rear are now in place, as it'll be run indoors now on high grip carpet. Std sway bars but with adjustable turnbuckles in the rear. And Radshape alu holders in the front. I sanded off some material in the red sway bar mounts in order to make it moove freely. Sadly the cool X11 front wing had to go as there was no longer room for it.
3 ) Reversed the front damper holders back to normal and added a longer support alu tube, thx again MadInventor for making this for me!
4 ) RC Damper front alu uprights.
5 ) White Kyosho wheels dyed black with RIT dye. And VBC Swedish Edition slick tyres.
6 ) Superhshot alu roof, painted red.
7 ) Racer's Edge alu servo arm.
8 ) Never again el cheapo servos! In with a Futaba 9550!
9 ) Made my own Kydex bumper in thinner material than the JG Bumper (which broke). I also altered the shape slightly in order to get more ground clearance.
10 ) I've grounded off as much material front and rear as possible without the gearboxes falling apart - giving it more suspension travel and more ground clearance. This is one of the Hotshot's biggest design flaws.
11 ) Installed DF03 universal drive shafts in the front.
12 ) Found a better way to balance the chassis. Now it has quite ok transmission (except ball diffs'd be better of course). But the motor sticking far out on the right side really tweaks the chassis balance. I've cured this in Evo II by adding a lot of weight on the battery and chassis on the left side. But now... I used a 'shorty' LiPo battery and the Hudy balance tool - giving it PERFECT weight distribution - without adding any extra weight! Some dremeling and drilling was needed in order to mount the battery firmly using a wide cable tie.

Can't wait to race this baby in the Nordic Vintage Challenge in one week! In the 4WD Classic Class.

Thx for looking & comments are very welcome! :-)