Twin Detonator
Model Number: 58309

Released

TBA

Drive

4WD twin motors

Suspension

Four wheel double wishbone

Chassis Description

Polycarbonate monocoque frame

Body Type

Lexan polycarbonate

Motor

RS-540SH x2

Similar

58231 Wild Dagger

Width

310mm

Length

431mm

Height

243mm

Wheel Base

281mm

Tread Front

250mm

Tread Rear

250mm

Ground Clearance

47mm

Weight

2360g (fully equipped)

Scale

1/10 Monster Truck

Tires

front:130mm All Terrain lugged
Rear:130mm All Terrain lugged

[from Tamiya}


Thundering around off-road stadiums with immense tires, Monster Trucks have fascinated the world for years. Tamiya is proud to present its latest radio-controlled monster truck: the Twin Detonator. In order to generate power worthy of its dynamic image, the chassis has been equipped with a motor in both the front and the rear. With the battery located in the middle of the chassis, the Twin Detonator is perfectly balanced for rough riding. The centrally positioned servo ensures the equal alignment of the steering tie rods, improving control. The four-wheel double wishbone suspension offers flexible handling over all road conditions.



Two motors for a powerful monster truck




The chassis adopts a sturdy gear-train, firmly holding the gearboxes on both sides with a semi-monocoque frame. This arrangement guarantees stability on even the toughest of terrain, and allows easy access and maintenance of gearbox without disassembly.




Reviews

Henk4Focus

6/23/2008 2:36:55 PM

It was the first Tamiya that I ever owned and it was purely the look of the box art that made me buy it. In standard form it is a bit of a slouch and nothing to write home about. MSC and silver cans make for very pedestrian speeds. The CVA shock units are bumpy and absolutely terrible in my opinion. I uprated my motors to sport tuned but this just burns the contacts on the MSC and you end up disasembling the MSC on a constant basis.
I kept my one Det standard to honour it being my first foray into the world of RC. My second was made 2wd as with the Blackfoot Extreme and runs a 19turn motor on a novak ESC. Long travel shocks with hard damper oil makes for great jumps but now it does tend to flip more. I am not a great fan of the tyres these trucks come with as they seem to be a little of balance but I live with it.
All in all a great first car but to heavy and slow for most people.

Evoman

2/13/2004 10:15:13 AM

this is the review to be put in radio race car
First things first

This is the new truck from tamiya and it’s very similar to the wild dagger with a few exceptions.
The first things you notice when opening your new-boxed truck is that the hardest part of the build is done for you i.e. the gearboxes are fully assembled. As far as I am aware this is a first for tamiya and maybe a step towards part built kits as we already have fully finished and decaled body’s and pre cut stickers on other cars. Tamiya do make a ready to run range of cars based on their current chassises so this may come out as a ready to run truck some day. Anyway back to the build, after unpacking and checking everything was there, getting the tools out of my pit box, I then stripped the affor mentioned gear boxes down and fitted them with ball bearings. I did this for the simple reason that the standard white plastic bushings that come with the kit will not last very long when I later fit faster motors and run better batteries plus it’s better to put them in now than having to strip the whole car down at a later date. This is shown at the back of the instruction manual plus it gives you sizes and part numbers for the new ball bearings. After this you cut out and fit the upper and lower arms to the rear gearbox then rear axles and drive shafts. A point to mention here is that the manual tells you to grease these parts before fitting them but I find that doing this on a off road truck that is made to run on dirt and rough surface just gives dirt something to cling on to so I don’t do it myself. After the rear comes the front arms and axles with steering hubs and carriers. The only thing to be careful of here is when screwing the four step screws (king pin’s) into the hubs. The hubs have threads inside them and if there not lined up correctly when you screw them in, the kingpin may not fit correctly and may fall out with vibration when running the car later on.

Shocks and servo’s

The next step is to build four shock units. These are a very simple but effective design used on the cheaper touring cars with two differences. 1: they have the rubber tube inside AND outside the unit the second is used to limit the shocks action and keep the truck from bottoming out when jumping and landing. The first is greased to smooth the action for rough terrain driving. 2: the bottoms are far longer to cope with the travel needed to fit on a truck of this size. After assembly it’s time to fit them to the gearboxes with the bumpers to complete the units. Next comes the bit most beginners have trouble with (in my experience) the setting of the servos. This being more of a beginner type truck than the choice of a racer many people will not have set up servo’s before. The first thing to do is go and put your main car battery on charge this will be 7.2volts and vary between 1200-3300mah. The main difference is that the manual shows a wheel type transmitter not the normal twin stick type we more often see in the UK. This can throw people off and complicate matters and as this is a vital part of the build is must be done right first time. Basically you must fit your radio gear together outside of the car and set the neutral position on the servos before fitting them into the car with the correct servo horns on them. Follow the instructions in your radio gear and fit the servos and switch into the receiver. Then tape up the two blue and one white thin wires that come from the 3-step controller as per the car manual. Plug in the small red plug on the controller into the switch and then plug in your main battery to the controller with the big white plug. Look at you transmitter and check that the sticks and trims next to them are in the middle and that the normal/reverse switches are set to normal. Turn on the transmitter then the switch for the servos the two servos will then set themselves to neutral and that’s it. Turn off the receiver switch then the transmitter and unplug your two servos. You are now ready to fit the servo horns to them as per the car manual.

Main construction

The two halves of the main chassis are the same so you can’t get them the wrong way round so all you have to do it put the joining struts on them, fit in the servo’s, manual speed controller and resistor. That sounds easy doesn’t it BUT it isn’t. You have too be very careful where all the wires go in the main truck chassis. The way I did it was to get some tape and tape the wire to the outside of the chassis where it ended up and made sure that none of them where trapped inside when fitting the two halves together. This is a lot easier if you enlist a second pair of hands to hold all the wires for you when fitting it together. The next step is fitting the receiver and the internal roll bars. Then add two pre made gearbox’s making sure they are the right way round. Snap up the front steering and adjust according to preference (toe in or out) Put the bag over the speed controller (to keep dust and dirt from sticking to the switch lubricant) fit all four wheels and tyres with the groves going all the same way and your done with construction

The body

The first thing to do is to cut out the body from the moulding this can be done with 1: a sharp knife and a steady hand 2: a pair of special rounded scissors (available at you local model shop) 3: the best set of scissors in the house. After cutting out then you may want to wash the inside of the body free from oil and grime this will give a great finish to the body. As the manual says you should use washing up liquid and allow to air-dry before starting. This next step if vital if you want a nice looking body for your truck, shake the can well and go outside to spray it make sure it’s not very cold or hot out there as this can effect your spray job. Hold the body about 20-30cm away from you and spray the INSIDE very lightly from left to right all across the body so you can barely see the paint. Cover the whole body with a light coat then leave it a nice airy place for at least an hour for tamiya cans and maybe more for other makes. After you have done this three more times you can start putting on thicker coats until the can is empty or you like the finish you have. Some people coat the body in a different colour to BACK UP the colour on top like using silver will make the top colour seem lighter and thicker or black will make it look darker and deeper. The next thing to do is rip off the top cover sheet and cut out the stickers again with a knife or scissors. The best way that I have found to put the decals on the body is to cut it out as fine against the lines as you can, then peal a small bit away and cut off the backing sheet then you can place your sticker on the shell and move it without ripping it in two. When the position is correct then you can slowly remove the rest of the backing sheet and press down the sticker into place. After the decals are done all you need to do is fit the roll bar onto the back of the body and your done.

Testing (play) time

With four fully charged 2000 batteries I went out to test the truck on my local dirt BMX track. After finding no kids playing on the track I started off mildly driving round and was pleased to say that the car has a lot of grip on this surface and is fast for a twin motor truck. After I leant the way this truck was handling the track (I normally use my TXT-1 here) I gave it full power and took all the jumps at full speed and was happy with the fact that it didn’t nose dive or flip over. All of the small jumps and both of the 3-4 meter high jumps it took with no problem. After the third battery I fitted two 21 turn double motors into the truck and some old oil filled dampers of a TB-01 rally car and went out for some fun. The truck went very fast but the run (play) time was almost cut in half with the faster motors fitted. The handling of the truck was phenomenal it took bends at full speed and didn’t lift up any wheels it just dug in. So when you have built your truck my advice is to get some oil dampers for it and slightly faster motors to have more FUN with it wherever you use it.

Stefan

1/25/2004 5:00:25 PM

This car, is a easy one to build, would be a real good 1ste time rc car,
manual is clear, and no modifications needed to make it all fit & work.
The driving, with ballbearings and a esc, it is to be honest a bit slow, pushed with a 3000Ma battery all i can say is... ' Well, it goes'
I am afraid some hot engine's are needed to give this one a real push trough the dirt.

Talking about dirt. Yes, it goes about anywhere, rock, sand, mud,grass , name it, it goes over it. But, also some downsides, the low ground clearence really gets u stuck fast on a decent pile of dirt. On the other hand, if u just keep the speed in (and, for that fact, it does not mather if u go on concrete or a fresh plowed farm field) , it goes just as fast. U will break/smash your way over it all without any problems. But, the added oil shocks on my test car for this review might have something to do with that also.

Also, in the name of sience tried to wreck the car, to see what it could take, real nasty one wheel hits with curbs, head on curbs , try to flip it, name it, i have tried it.
But, no damage at all, only the usual scrape marks at the bumpers.

Conclusion, very good product! indistructible, easy to build, and, a lot of fun to drive/smash/bash.
The only 2 real downsides i could find is the stock low speed, and the low ground clearence. the first should be a easy fix, the second, could need some aftermarket parts.

Stefan


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