Hotshot
Model Number: 58391

Released

Drive

4wd

Re-release

Reviews

gozone

8/26/2007 8:02:53 PM

As with the Wild One, the Hotshot has always made me want one, and for some reason, i never got one, until now it was re-relaesed, so therefore, i cannot compare the new version against the old version in any way.

Well , i started out the build by ordering a full set of Ballbearings, which are more of a must than a 'option' in my book, when it comes to runenrs, and this WAS going to be a runner ,so i just bought some to install during the build. (Don´t we all?)

As usual, it´s kinda like Christmas when opening a new kit, and this was no different than all the other times i have tried it.. Unlike many others, a am not missing the blister-packs at all, as i remember cutting my fingers with a hobbyknife when opening the blisters back in the early days,

Anyway, the kit was a pleasant build, and it all went pretty easy together as usual with Tamiya-kits.. DO remember to have a hobbyknife or scalpel handy when building ,as there are lots of 'flash' on the parts from the sprues when breaking them off.

I used a vintage Graupner SSM reciever, a Futaba S3003 servo, a Tamiya Expec tranny and a Tamiya TEU-101-BK esc for this car, along with the kit-suppiled motor.
The bodyshell was painted red as per boxart. (boring old me, LOL)...

Also as usual, the manual is easy to follow, and it shows every step quite good i think. The parts of the kit are exact made, and fits perfectly also, with the only thing in the build, being a bit fidly, is the trimming of the bodyshell and wing.. This is best done with a conbination of straight and curved scissors, along with a scalpel, followed by a touch of sandpaper to smooth the edges.

The only thing in the 'mechanical' departent, which can be a bit annoying is the fitting of the small metal-plates, which align the pinion with the spur gear. However, with a bit of patience, this is also accomplished without big trouble. I used the 15 tooth gear, which meant positioning 2 plates on each side of the screw. The plates can be held in place by using a small amount of grease to 'glue' them together and is place, when fitting the screw.

Instead of the kit-supplied molybdenum-grease, i used the AW-grease from Tamiya in the diffs, making them much more tight, and thereby not loosing as much momentum to spinning wheels in turns. I used the same 'trick' on my Frog, which also works good.
I have heard others thinking that the screws securing the top and lower deck together were too tight, and they have used grease on the screws.. I cannot understand this issue, as i thought they went in very easy. (Eat some more black bread, guys.

The monocoque-type frame offers good protection from the elements, but makes servicing and adjusting the ESC a nightmare. Therefore, make sure to adjust throttle and steering response BEFORE finishing the build. (But the manual also says that.)..

The place in the reciever / esc-area is not very big, so make sure to fasten / protect the wiring from damage by the the propeller shaft, which also goes through the compartment..

The bodyshell does not fit snugly, because of wires going out (Battery and motor), so it is not very likely to sit perfectly after each run, LOL...

The car runs very well i think, with a slight understeer, so i adjusted the toe to be a bit smaller than manual-setup.. After that, it went round the track in much better style. Sofar, i have not made any REALLY good jumps, as the car has a tendancy to 'over-jump' with the rear, making it land on it´s nose.

My conclusion is that it is a very well made car, easy to assemble, and quite a good performer, however, the kit-supplied motor will get very boring, very quickly, so fitting a Superstock TZ or RR must be advised. (Probably due the to loss of power through all those darn gears, LOL)

Michael


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