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  1. Past hour
  2. Some more work on Falcon #2 gearbox treated to ball bearings utilised a brand new resistor plate to mount a resistor cover (no resistor as I’ll be running an ESC and 2.4ghz but wanted a retro look) and then ive fitted the brand new front bumper and have a brand new torque tuned 540 waiting for an 18T pinion. Its now 1:34am so off to bed (just glad my shed is so warm) JJ
  3. Today
  4. I picked up a dark grey chassis and switched over last weekend... Its HAWT! https://jpegbay.com/gallery/007550055-1.html#1 Terry
  5. Has anybody picked one of these up??? I'm starting to see parts on EBAY... Specifically, I'm wondering if the BlueBrat chassis A Parts are the same as the Re-Re Frog (ie the same indicators) or if they are the same as the dark grey KBF chassis... I picked up a dark grey chassis on EBAY a couple of months ago and I'm wondering if its a KBF or BlueBrat chassis... Terry
  6. Are you in the US??? I'm sure I have one in my Toolbox... If I do, and you are in the US, I can send you for free + postage... Terry
  7. So here it is all in place. Looks pretty nifty if I do say so myself! It was dark and wet out by the time I finished so I only gave it the briefest of drives but it seemed to work pretty well. In all fairness, although it's not a great handler in stock form, it is pretty stable due to how low and squat it is so I wasn't expecting much benefit there. It did seem a little more planted and less bouncy though, at least at the front end! One thing I did notice is that the articulation is reduced now that the wheels don't do the back to the future thing. I always prefer when a car can bottom out on the chassis so the force doesn't go through the suspension components and I prefer it twofold when the parts are 3d printed so that's another area I would address if I knew how to do 3d modelling. I'm currently running mini CVAs at the front and short at the rear. I think a slightly taller shock tower and shorts all round would be about perfect. I will have to wait till I have some spare time in the daylight now before I can drive it more. I'm probably not going to try doing massive jumps or anything to stress test it but I won't baby it too much either. I'll probably try it on the carpark down the road which is heavily weathered tarmac. My Lunchbox used to have a similar thingiverse front end conversion and that seemed to manage ok once I went to 100% infill. If it holds up as well as the Lunchbox did in the same circumstances I'll be happy because it means it should do ok in dirt and at the beach which are my favourite places to bash.
  8. Yesterday
  9. And here it is in an all black stealth look (Lexan looks cloudy as the paint cools the plastic and it’s late and humid outside so there is a little condensation on the outer shell) JJ
  10. Sections 15 to 24. This is the best bit so far. Screw bag B gets opened & the wheelie bar gets built. If if you are going to build one of these & you want to add the upper arm connectors immediately then it saves taking the tie-rods off if you do it between steps 19 & 20 as the tie-rod length is different to the manual, less toe-in with the connectors. manual states 1mm gaps on tie-rods all round. Connectors instructions specify gaps of 2.2mm rear & 4mm front. I don’t know why there is no mention of the connector hop up as an option in the manual. I acquired some thread-lock via a relative who was sent it as a mispick on an Amazon order. The seller didn’t want it back, result! There was need of it for the counter sunk screw in to ball connector nut in section 18 on the steering linkage, the only metal on metal in the build so far. & here’s an action shot with the blue thread-lock already applied to the connector. Section 22 to 25 is the AA battery case and electronics set up so I’ll jump to section 26 next.
  11. svenb

    TB-02R rebuild

    Have you got the SSG chassis brace 53679? It's a nice part just never seen when fitted!
  12. IMO Miles who him and his father used to sell vintage Tamiya and Kyosho parts did the best decals, all were redrawn in vector and the colours were the best/closest. Screenprintdigital as did quality ones as well. I have a feeling both were given cease and desist letters from Tamiya. I have bought decals twice from MCI Racing. The first was 5 sets, including a Juggernaut set and a boomerang set. The juggernaut ones were so badly pixelated. Someone here posted a picture of the Dick Cepek logo, which was the same as mine. The boomerang ones I cut the bumper stickers out and placed them on a new vintage bumper, and then proceeded to buy a NIP vintage Tamiya set. I wasn't happy with any of the 5 sets and haven't used any apart from cutting out those boomerang bumper stickers. The second set I bought about two- three months ago. I decided to give it another whirl as I felt like my Grand Hauler could do with some vintage king hauler decals but with a colour change. These are the king hauler ones, the gold looks to have run out or something, so cannot be used. I sent an email and was assured replacements were on their way. That was over a month ago. Still hoping they will show up.
  13. Postie dropped this off today! Paid a little more than I wanted to but it is new unused never been in a car and I suppose you pay for quality no matter how old it is! And I have no idea what car if any its going in
  14. Enjoy your build👍 I've always had a soft spot for the Monster beetle from right back from the original to the 2015 all good to me
  15. For the camber links, I decided to try two different approaches. Both use plain old m3 threaded rod but on one side I used those little Tamiya brass ball studs and Tamiya connectors. The advantage is that they only have m2 threades which means a minimum of material being removed. The downside in my experience is that they are prone to stripping the threads, even if you take the time to tap the holes first (which itself is easier said that done with a 3d printed part) For the other side, I tried some combined ball connectors and larger m3 self tappers. I originally wanted to just put machine screws and nuts on but for the upper link, there's no clearance between the tower and the shock even for a screw head, it catches on the shock spring and binds it up so I've had to resort to a self tapping screw which is not what I wanted at all. Besides having to make a larger pilot hole and remove more material, I now have the force of the screw pushing outward and stressing that area too. I would space the shock outwards slightly but the bottom mount sandwiches the shock eye so there's no potential to move the bottom outwards. I'm not sure if there's enough freedom of movement there to allow me to add enough spacing at the top to clear a screw head or not. I will report back when I try.
  16. I thought the photo was mirror-sided, but I guess not?
  17. Lexan replica shell arrived today for Falcon #2 not a bad replica but a few flaws in the area under the wing and the cut lines are almost non-existent so marked them as well as I was able. i used the other 2 shells for reference. Cutting is always a PITA for some reason but the falcon shell is a whole other league.... who designed this shape ha lots of time and v careful trimming with a mix of Stanley, craft and scissors and it was done. the Lexan kit comes with the window masking kit do not long till I start that. i have a metallic graphite/black I used for my comical hornet and it looks lovely so will use that again. I’m not gonna do any s*******y masking and painting of the red and just gonna rely on the stickers. the question is, do I use the original sticker set or the replica set (and sell the originals to support the build costs) thoughts?? JJ
  18. The parts integrate nicely with the chassis without modifications which is very satisfying. Unfortunately, I could instantly see that the shock tower isn't going to work with the steering link mod. There's barely enough room for the stock wire to pass underneath which is a shame because the mod is really needed here because there's so many sources of wobble and play. The arms themselves fit loosely, just like the stock ones and although adding some heat shrink to the arms helps, there's a limit to how far you can go before they begin to bind. The next source of play is the uprights, it's quite common with 3d printed parts to have looser tolerances than Tamiya parts and it's no different here. I can certainly shim them to make a significant improvement but again, it will be a juggling act between removing slop and introducing binding. Then you have to consider that there is no upper wishbone and only a camber link so there's an asymmetric force working on the uprights which isn't a flaw in its own right but it will provoke any sloppiness elsewhere. So overall, the wheels still have a lot of play and undesired freedom of movement just like in stock form but at least the suspension is now fundamentally superior, gotta look at the bright side!
  19. Got the wing on my Coppermix, so I think it’s done. wheelbase is a bit off on the front, but that might. Be exacerbated by the offset of the wheels. I’m not sure it or the TA07 it sits on will ever leave the shelf, maybe one day
  20. I decided to be a guinea pig and try these out. I had the same concerns as greg about those upper link mounts plus the overall design hasn't been done with consideration to fdm printing. I've already been taught that harsh radii are baaaad and that it's better to chamfer/fillet to take away stress points. I can also see various wasted opportunities where there was ample room to simply bulk vulnerable areas up and give them a better chance of sustaining impacts. Saying all that, it's still a really neat and thought out design and considering that I'm useless at 3d software I can't really be too critical! I ordered the parts in PETG with 100% infill via Treatstock. This was about the best compromise between the parts having half decent strength and not spending too much money on what amounts to an experiment. The parts came back looking pretty nice although I did overlook the fact that the vendor only had transparent PETG on hand so the results were a little more like cherry drops and sherbet lemons than I anticipated!
  21. This is great! I hope all members use it for this forum so I can finally see some photos. Photo services such as imgurl are blocked in my country.
  22. Thanks for all the info, i have checked the set and it does indeed have the chrome rear wing of the CS, so it kind of figures that the white set i saw was the non CS set.
  23. Loving the look of those decals! Excited to see what they look like on the shell!
  24. More surgery on the TA06 Lots of blather on my build thread if you're interested. One thing though, this is my first RW Racing spur gear. It's soooooo smooooth 😁
  25. Well, MUCH fiddling this week. Fitted the kit springs. Much stiffer, but seems a little calmer. Ride height was a bit high at the rear, so i pulled out a thin preload spacer leaving some dead 'rattly spring' travel, but that got the rear down to 5mm. Ran it briefly and it seemed a step in the right direction so i needed to figure out how to get rid of the dead travel in the shock. Some surgery..... I didn't really want to rebuild the shocks with a spacer inside, and as things were looking ok on the handling i wanted to dial back the rear toe in too. So, i pulled the rear arms off to install the 1X RF blocks to give 3 deg toe in (down from 4) and whilst the arms were off i took advantage of the reversible option and flipped them. The reversible arms have staggered holes on either side. The kit build has you install them so the rear shock mounts on hole 3 (outermost hole of the inboard pair of holes). Flipping them allows me to use hole 4, the widest possible option. This did exactly what i wanted and required full shock extension to reach it. I took up the slack on the spring with the thin preload spacer and dropped it onto my board. (i hesitate to call it anything as grand as a setup board - it's a spare laminated shelf). The new position had the effect of increasing the leverage and effectively softening the rear end (a good thing for me) as the ride height was down at 3mm. I shuffled the preload spacers to get back to 5mm, reset the droop (4mm) and added some droop to the front (6mm). Ran it for a good few minutes and this definitely heading the right way. I think i might be getting somewhere! I have still ordered 53440 spring set which will hopefully be here in time to do some final tweaking before racing on saturday evening. One final thing: You might have spotted the white spur gear. I had been running an Associated spur but it seemed to be noisy and warp a bit. This is the first RW Racing i have had and it's sooooo good. Prefectly round and straight and the car just purrrrrrs. Lovely!
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