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  2. Yes, it's a shame really as the concept is fantastic - and certainly some parts (such as the Knight Customs VW engine I have on the SRB Cage Racer) are reasonable, particularly when they are printed in a clear/fine material - although larger flat surfaces (particularly body-panels for example) and some of those V8 engines you see for sale on ebay look like they've been assembled from LEGO pieces rather than printed... I'm sure the technology will continue to improve, but I think the layering format that the [current] printers use is the issue, and that some printers [typically commercial vs. home] are going to be better quality than others of course. fwiw. As I recall, isn't there a technology being developed that would essentially 'cast' a part inside a block of powdered material using a laser? - that seems very sci-fi to me, but you'd hope it it would improve the finish as I imagine it could be done much more quickly than building the material in layers? Jx
  3. Peter_B

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Took some tools to the newly arrived Monster Racer. The main objective was to remove the scuffed FRP gearbox mounting plate so I can send it off to be copied in carbon fibre. Whilst I had the car on the bench I noticed that it's not quite as it seems. First I noticed the mounting holes in the body aren't square and don't line up with the dimples moulded into the body. Looking closer the chassis doesn't have the right body posts fitted. It looks to have King Cab posts fitted. That leaves the question - is it a Monster Racer with King Cab body posts, or is it a King Cab with Monster Racer body and wheels? I don't yet know enough about them to figure out the answer. Nevertheless, I managed to find 2 sets of Monster Racer body posts online so ordered both. For now I'll just make the correct holes in the current body and eventually get a repro one. One small piece of broken plastic did fall out of the chassis, but I haven't been able to spot where it might have come from. Other than that the rest of it seems pretty sound. Diff feels like it needs a rebuild and fresh lube but doesn't feel "bad".
  4. Today
  5. graemevw

    Cad design for fibre lyte

    I downloaded inkscape and had a play. Admittedly i dont know what im doing, but i found it a nightmare to try and use. I can draw, i can measure, bit what i cant do is plot points. I want to be able to plot accurate hole markings, preferably by typing in dimensions rather than trying to drag with the mouse, then once the holes are plotted, draw lines around the outside to get the shape of the piece. There must be a simple program where i can tell it to place a mark, then place another 36mm to the left, then another 10mm up etc etc to get a layout of hole centers, then draw a shape around the lot. Maybe ill try google sketchup next.
  6. El Dougo

    XV-01 Help

    I mentioned to a dude at my RC Club that I was building an XV-01 and he happened to have one that he only raced once, well:
  7. DrewZ

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Painted this thing while feeding and bathing my kids. And my wife says I can't multi-task! There is a powerful connection between memory and the sense of smell, and man, Tamiya spray paint takes me back!
  8. As you may know, Hobbyking has been a great source for DIRT cheap 27T silver cans for a few years now. Well they have just started stocking the 20T version too. As far as I know, these are true 20T motors and not retimed like the Tamiya Torque and Sports tuned motors. They should give equal or slightly better performance compared to the sports tuned and cost £3.57! The only catch, if you can call it that, is that it will probably have no flat spot on the shaft so you'll have to make your own with a dremel or something similar. I mostly use brushless these days but it's nice to have a cheap option for a brushed motor, great for older stuff where gear strength is dubious and for cheap projects.
  9. Super Clodbuster Junkie

    Tamiya konghead to Kongbox

    Cool cliffhanger. Well played, well played.
  10. Sweet... when I fall down upgrading the motors rabbit hole I refer back to you guys for help, great explanation which will make more sense when I'm actually sat in front of a motor rather than at my desk at work during lunchtime, ideally I'll just buy motors ready at zero timing so they will work from the get go like the silver cans ;p Great, now Wooders28 is going to set the Bullhead speed record even higher before I can challenge it lol ;p Good luck with it.
  11. In recon there’s heaps left with the silver can. I was using a 1060 esc with the 3s run. I recon with a castle MM2 in 3s and in a RM01 or F103GT it would be quicker. Less drag on the drive line, lighter.
  12. Hi, does anyone have any information on an old nosram national esc , like specs,setup or instructions I have in an old car?
  13. Thought that was the 4s, that burnt out and welded, hadn't realised that was 6s 😳 The clod/heads seem to be kinder to silver cans, not sure if it's the gearing, but thinking the life span would still be short on 4s, but faster is faster 😏
  14. Does anybody have a set of Monster Racer wheels, with or without tyres?
  15. acprc

    Are these pretty rare bodyshells now?

    Any of the Escort bodies are now commanding fairly good prices. I see all of them on your list quite a lot be it Japan, the USA or Europe. The Pilot, Repsol, Tiger Stripe and WRC bodies have shot up in value over the last few years.
  16. I ran the silver can on 3s, 4s and 6s 3s I got 50mph 4s was 51mph 6s was 48mph. I lowered the gearing for 6s the best run was in 3s. The motor made a few passes and was still ok. 4s it burnt out 6s the brush welded to the communicator.
  17. Agree with you on the grainy texture 3d printed parts have being a turn off. I know you can "smooth" them with acetone vapor, but in my experience even that leaves a bit to be desired in the finish department. IMO it takes a lot of work to get a 3d printed part smooth enough to be acceptable appearance wise.
  18. J@mes

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    And this morning I took a stroll to collect a TBLM10.5T but had to pay the customs charges. Nice detail on the shaft!
  19. Yeah, 3s with silver cans 👍 @stew_mac tried 4s with a, bedded in reverse run in water bath, 540 silver can, and it didn't last one run, I don't think it even got upto speed, but the clodhead (?) Is low geared, so 🤷‍♂️ I bought a couple of HPI firebolt 15t motors to run, no mention anywhere of being directional, and £8 each 😁 Need to find time to get them nailed in and see how they fair on 3s, the novafox runs ok with the firebolt on 3s 😏 You need to alter the end bell to allow timing adjustment, either remove the tabs,and glue the end bell in its new timing position, or new slots etc. (I think you can do it with altering brushes?), for a 10° advanced motor, you'd need to retard it 20° for it to be 10° running in reverse. Most of the brushed modified motors have adjustable timing anyway, loosen a screw, turn end bell, tighten 👍 Yeah, but you'd need 2 esc's as the feedback for motor position wouldn't work too well.
  20. Jason1145

    Are these pretty rare bodyshells now?

    That's a good insight thanks. , I just wondered as I don't think I've seen these for sale in the UK so I guessed they would be pretty valuable over here compared to those prices in Japan... if they were to sell for those prices that is!
  21. Heh, that IS a long link indeed. Don't let timing scare you. Unless you do something really strange and don't think a bit ahead, it's very easy for this application. Most of the rebuildable motors that are open on the back, have adjustable timing. Some are set @ 0 from the factory, as the manufacture does not know which way it needs to turn. Adjusting the timing is not only a matter of running two motors, it's often needed depending on your model. Depending on the gearbox layout, some cars require the motor to spin in one direction, and others the other. I believe the DT-03 has reversed rotation as an example. Anyway, as I said, it's not hard at all. These motors usually have timing marks, +/- 10-12 degrees or so. And even if they don't and you want to pair up a set of motors, it's still very easy - you play it by ear. While timing is important for best performance, and to an extent, the life of the motor, hitting the timing 110% dead on balls accurate, is not a must. Trust me, no two silvercans are exactly alike, despite being @ 0. Only way to find true 0, is to adjust while the motor is running and then measure for lowest amps. But here's how it's done. On the back of the motor you will find two screws. Those two needs to be loosened so that the endbell can be turned. Do not remove them completely, just enough so that it will turn. Do not loosen these before we know which motor to adjust. Now connect both motors to the same ESC via a splitter cable, making sure one is in reverse. Use the throttle trim to make the motors run at say 1/8-1/4 throttle. Now you can hear which motor is the slow one, and this is the one we need to adjust. Shut off the motors and mark the one that is the reverse, so you always know which is which. While both motors are running, loosen the endbell on this motor just enough as mentioned previously. Now slowly turn the endbell in the same direction as the motor is spinning. You will hear it pick up speed, and as the speed of the two motors get closer, you will hear the sound get more and more in harmonic phase as the tone of the motors gets equal. Once you find that the combined tone of the two motors are steady, you tighten the screws. Voilá, your motors are now timed Brushelss is simple in this regard. Only thing is that you need two ESC's. As long as the motor timing is set @ 0, which is most often is, and the setup is sensorless, you simply connect one motor ABC to ABC, and the other ABC to CBA. The slightly more advanced ESC's can reverse the rotation, so you don't need to alter the connection sequence at all.
  23. Re-Bugged

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I am ashamed to admit that today I made my son an accessory to Tamiya part smuggling 😱. I ordered a spare rollbar & nudge bar for my Brat ( Brat car, didn’t mean my son). US$10 free postage to the College he’s studying at in Alabama, Otherwise it would be the the equivalent of US$35 shipped to Australia with postage etc. So with the savings that completely justifies spending several hundred $’s on my next order 👍🏻. My wife will be so pleased, I just know it 😁.
  24. Yeah, all those bad folks causing trouble, wearing those Vans and Vision Street Wear gear. Up to no good for sure. People's misconceptions crack me up.
  25. Saito2

    Thorp 4512

    Kalsh is right. Unfortunately, finding them might be tricky. I never saw the hole-less axles in person back in the day but I remember seeing them in the Thorp catalog. Supposedly, some folks were having issues with the hole version axle breaking at the the hole point. These clamp-only adapters with solid axles were Thorp's remedy.
  26. Mokei Kagaku

    Are these pretty rare bodyshells now?

    I fully agree with Svenb if you actually mean the original release boxed body parts sets and your question is really about how rare they are and not necessarily how much they are worth. Because, for these bodies, rarity and value don’t correlate very well. Except the Michelin Escort, all of them have been re-released either in car kits or as body parts sets in plastic bags. For collectors who want the original release body parts set in NIB condition, that doesn’t matter much. Most others, including those who want to build/paint/use the bodies, the re-release bodies will be the cheaper option. This generally reduces the demand for the original body parts sets, having a negative impact on the prices achieved. Also, I don’t know about the Japanese market, but I've always had the impression that most fans outside Japan think the Levin body is a bit boring and undesirable, and during my countless visits to hobby shops in Europe, I’ve seen the original Levin body parts set as (unsold) old stock at very reasonable prices quite many times. With a little patience, it shouldn't be very hard to find the Levin body parts set for 30-40 EUR/USD. Also, though predicting future Tamiya releases and re-releases is next to impossible, the Fiat body is most likely compatible with the new M08 chassis, making a future release of the Fiat on the M08-chassis and/or as a body parts set a logical move. (It was re-released on the M05S chassis, but as it doesn’t fit the M04 and M06, it hasn’t been so common in recent years.) I also think there is a good chance the Jaguar will be re-released again. It hasn't been verified yet, but there exist indications that the Mazda 787 is about to be re-released, and just like the last time the Gr.C chassis cars were re-released, the Jaguar could follow. So, from a value/demand perspective (and not rarity or my personal taste), I think the Michelin Escort is the most desirable, followed by the F40.
  27. Jason1145

    Sonic Fighter Parts needed

    Oh I definitely don't have the grey seal so Svens offer looks good
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