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  2. Wow, taking a closer look at the chassis on my PC, it is really nice and clean. With some searching and patience, you can fine Original GH parts to replace things like your front bumper. Tires might be harder to replace - they don't age well. The ReRe ties are exactly like the original (well I think they are slightly different but you won't notice). And you could get a ReRe body. AFAIK, there is no difference b/w the OG body and the ReRe body, except maybe badging on the inside. And there are 3rd party manufacturer's that make clones of the Original decals... And then I would get a ReRe GH and drive the living daylights out of that! Hopefully some of the GH/Hornet experts will pop up... Terry
  3. I have the Associated B4 48p spur in mine. As @ThunderDragonCy says you need the Associated slipper pads and I had to ream out the centre hole in the spur slightly to fit.
  4. Ok I want a 1:1 Holiday Buggy now please (maybe a DT02 will suffice?) I was curious so I did some Googling and found some more info on the Corsair Stripper https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=96951&id=23692
  5. This^^^ My Shelf Queen shelf is empty as all my Shelf Queens are in various stages of mods, re-builds, waiting for the next drive, etc... I tend to use "Shelf Queen" as a phrase to mean any car that I would cry over if it broke... Terry
  6. I'd have to know a lot more about it before dropping that much, but if I was in the market for another project Frog (and enough of the car was usable), this would be a good start to a cool period racer. Guessing it's a Brat that was converted to Frog spec (with a few extra hopups) for someone's weekend racer back in the day. Hard to say if the chassis has been dyed or painted, but that dark gray spaceframe was only used on much later Blackfoot series ORVs.
  7. I'd go the same route (re-re for a carefree basher with the kids) and keep your original not just for the shelf, but runnable, so you can have the occasional light cruise with it. If I made pure shelfers out of my old cars, I wouldn't have anything to run! I completely understand the impulse to preserve, but it's usually outweighed by my desire to drive
  8. Or a modern splinter pattern in blacks and greys
  9. Nothing planned until the restrictions lift. Probably mid-summer earliest.
  10. Failing that, RW Racing do 0.5mod Helicoptor pinions for 3.175 shaft motors down to 10t.
  11. I've seen it mentioned people running Associated B4 48dp spur gears. You'll need the octagonal Associated slipper pads too, and possibly drill out the centre slightly, but having looked at the manual there's no reason why that shouldn't work.
  12. I couldn’t wait for the weekend so had a quick inspection..... Noticed the fender is leaning to the left. It’s never been removed or reglued but surely it cannot be a Tamiya error? This bracket was actually the wrong way round! Again it can’t be a Tamiya error surely not? There’s no indication to say it’s been opened before.... Chassis is nice and straight although one bracket was slightly bent which I removed and made straight in the vice... Certainly made a difference but not 100% perfect. I think I can live with the little error if I’m honest. I certainly think it’s the way the cab has been glued which makes the corner stick out more than it should. Thoughts gents?
  13. Thanks Terry. I had had this thought actually. Maybe it's just easier and I'll be less precious about it if it gets trashed!
  14. Unfortunately looks like ACOMs is a 40Mhz. Thanks for digging these out. Think I have managed to source one elsewhere! Will soon see if works.
  15. I think my Modelsport order said may originally then it said June and I just looked and it says 12th April which is quite specific?
  16. Dont forget Tamiya in Germany was in cooperation with Dickie making a brand like Dickie-Tamiya, my QD was bought in Austria. And has Dickie Tamiya written. also they have made that „Carson“ brand https://www.simba-dickie-group.com/en/companies-and-brands/tamiya/ as for the pinion I believe its 0.6 just on a small pinion. The pinion wire seems to be off the measure
  17. Nah - I’ll just send the people round JJ
  18. Today
  19. hi all...its been a long time im after a rc forklift truck,working preferred......make either hobby or huina or similar uk buyer..paypal ready
  20. Yeah but I fear the worst in the long run. Storage space is my biggest limitation. I got +20 Gundam kits and it's a "what the heck, just move this to the side a bit" storage process LOL . The RC process is 1 kit for terrain type ATM.
  21. When I rebuild my Frog a few years back I found a lot of the plastic had become brittle and broke easily. I ended up replacing most of my car with ReRe parts. Save yourself the same headache and buy a new ReRe Grasshopper. For your original, clean it up and put it on a shelf. Terry
  22. “Sassy chassis” used to make these chassis’ and you’ll see one occasionally on eBay. eBay seller “sicnme” sells the modern version of it, which I’ve take to calling the Crashy or Flashy or even Bashy Chassis... He doesn’t have them listed ATM but you can send him a message and get one. He told me he didn’t like the way the top part of the tranny connected so he made a Mod. I might have one of the first Moded Trashy Chassis... Terry
  23. The Long Shock Conversion Way way back in the mists of time, the Thunder Dragon promo video shows the rear long shock upgrade option for the Thunder Dragon. This mounts the 105mm long Boomerang/Bigwig/Supershot rear shocks to the top mount on the original narrow shock tower. It looks awesome, but these shocks are actually way too long for even the top shock mounting hole. Now, as you all know, I've tried a *few* different configurations of this suspension on my various Thundershot chassis transmission buggies. Last week I came to the conclusion that the best I have ever used is my black CVA 2 shocks in longest 94mm length, running on the top Long Shock position on the narrow tower. At full extension this shock length gives full droop (the droop stops on the arms are just about touching the stops on the gearcase), lots of droop, lots of grip, lots of fun. It was the best option on my other Thunder Dragon, and I've reverted Ultra G to it too, because it's the best there. I've tried the wider Terra Scorcher tower, the original configuration here, with a bunch of different shock lengths, and none are as good as the Long Shock in my opinion. So, with this in mind, I wanted to see how I could keep the OG yellow CVA shock look and get a good Long Shock conversion for this fairly stock Thunder Dragon. Here's the original configuration with short shocks, which are 80mm eye to eye. To give you an idea of what I'm blathering on about, here's my other Thunder Dragon a couple of years back with it's Long Shock CVA2 configuration: First things first, the big different between original CVA Short and Long shocks is the body itself. These are usually readily available as the Boomerang/Bigwig U Parts tree, but there's nothing out there new right now. I lucked in with a member who I bought some used Long shocks off complete. These bodies are 10mm longer than the short shock bodies on their own. Here's the original short shocks sitting next to the long shocks: Then comes the piston rods. Here, I relied upon the brilliant Buggy Damper Thread where all the various CVA piston rod lengths are listed. I went for the current CVA short shock rod 9805917, which at 47mm long is a little longer than the original short shock rods, but 11mm that the rods in the Long shocks. However I've since found out that the Fire Dragon ReRe uses these 9805917 rods in it's original style CVA short shocks, so it's possible the difference isn't that great, so if you have a ReRe Thunder Dragon or Fire Dragon you probably don't need new piston rods, just the Bigwig U parts for the body. First build up and I put them together and the total length came out at 93mm, and I wasn't getting full extension of the suspension to the droop stops. I popped the ends off and fitted a 3mm CVA spacer between the nut and the shock end to extend to 96mm Perfect! These springs are from the DF03 setting spring set and needed another thick preload spacer on top of those pictured to take up the slack. I don't know how long the stock CVA springs are, but probably shorter so you'll need a few preload spacers handy. The Long shock springs are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long. Would have had ridiculous preload built in, which is not good. Got travel? Haven't run it yet, but if it's anything like as good as Ultra G, it will be great. And now it's all done a final thought occurs: In the buggy damper thread you'll find that the next size up piston rod is the 49.5mm long 54043 TRF501 gold coated rods from the Aeration dampers. So, you could go well s*******y and get those for the perfect length without any spacers. Hmmmmmmm......gold bits...... Oh, and here's the awesome original Thunder Dragon promo video Cheers!
  24. Bump. Still available.. 👍 may trade for ta02 / trf / f103 hopups..
  25. i think i used a shoo glue i got from penn when i put my merc together and this cab is a right pain to work on.... it dont tip very far for access so i always end up taking the cab off but it is a great price with every thing included the access screws are in the bottom light grill/bar that comes off then the the top cab is held on when a couple of hinges beyond the upper grill
  26. @Room335 0.7 tip to, let me know if it stay on if you are going to drive outside in wet weather. My latest order in my Quest to find pen’s that are easy to apply and stay on is Sharpies 1mm (silver/gold). I also noticed that my new Tires have writing that is not hollow, so i think the Sharpie’s would be easy to use on these
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