All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
stulec52 started following Blazer (Wild Willy) Tires
-
Hi all Recently picked up a very nice Blazin' Blazer, but the tires are a little cracked. I seem to remember picking up a set of tires for my Wild Willy a couple or three years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember from where. Anyone know where I could find a set these days? Thanks !
- Today
-
Mini update, live from the dunny. Roll Damper Part One After running the car in stock form i.e. without the roll dampers I found that the adjustment of the t-bar screw (aka the o-ring squashing screw) has to be a compromise, as usual: too tight and the car under steers (boring!) but too loose and the car becomes unstable and the rear can be knocked loose if you're not really gentle with your steering inputs (annoying!). The roll dampers help in that respect, allowing a somewhat looser setting of the infamous screw for sharper cornering without loosing the rear. The first step was to choose some dampers. I wanted them simple, light and black đŸ˜¬ so I bought the same ones I used to have on my Roche F1 Evo: These are friction dampers and commonplace in F1 and pan car racing. I use Tamiya friction damper grease in these. You have to wipe them clean very often as they obviously attract dirt but they work extremely well for their simplicity and almost negligible weight. The Group C bathtub has some convenient alternate body posts locations that are not used with the Jag body. These have an hex recess shape which happens to match the Square RC body posts that I found in my stash. I started by cutting them to only keep the bases: Then I sanded them flat and neat: Now, the annoying part is that the hex is oriented in such a way that it's an edge rather than a flat that faces aft. If I am to attach a damper to that hex I must drill a hole right on that edge! So I sanded a very subtle flat and then pointed a hole with the point of my dividers: (look closely, there's a hole there!) Then, holding the hex between two pieces of wood I drilled a hole with my trusty drill press: I found a 2.6mm diameter bit that is a great choice for drilling a hole in plastic that is going to be tapped to M3: The next picture has a worn adjuster and ball nut for fitment purposes only: Next up will be the attachment of the inner part of the dampers to the pod.
- Yesterday
-
Bearings for my. Clod arrived in the mail after work . I started taking the axles off to start tear down/ bearing replacement. Then wife got home from work and I had to start dinner , now I have a half apart clod on the bench.
-
If these came in your kit they are simply 26mm Racing Slicks or Racing Radials (the harder compound that comes with all TT-02 kits other than rally).
-
Winch recommendations
_Ben_ replied to _Ben_'s topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Thanks for the input, chaps. A servo winch could be a winner, if I can make it work. -
Yes, they do! There is a grey cardboard box for all the kit parts, and another smaller one for tires, etc. It was a nice surprise but then Horizon could not find a suitable box to ship the Tamiya box in and they shoehorned it in a marginally suitable box which buckled the Tamiya box Not a huge deal as I am not a Mercedes fan but still kind of annoying when your things arrive already damaged.
-
Today I tested some clear lacquer as a top coat over Tamiya metallic purple sprayed on a piece of sprue from between the wheels of my DT-03. Before lacquering the wheels, I wanted to test for adverse reactions and see if it improved the resilience of the finish. The left part is just PS paint, the right is PS and lacquer. The PS on its own was readily scratched with my fingernail, the lacquered PS stayed put despite vigorous scratching. Thus emboldened, I lacquered the wheels which I had sprayed previously with the same PS paint. They came out looking lovely and shiny. Once they have had at least 24 hours to cure, I'll pop the tyres on and take some photos with them on the car. With the lacquer top coat, they are now a nice glossy match for the inside-painted polycarbonate shell.
-
So the Mo got a run at Tamiya Junkies but I was too eager. I got it out early, before I was acclimatised to the track, overshot the bend after the straight, hit something solid and broke a front arm. A slightly foolish crash, but not an unusual one. It was bound to happen at some point, just a shame it was so early. It's also the case that I had designed these arms considerably thinner than any others I've done before. They're perhaps only half (or less) as strong as the rears on the Falcon, for example, which I've yet to break, and I think front ones are more in the firing line. I said somewhere earlier in this build thread that I am in part experimenting my way to understanding how big/tough parts should be. I can't realistically do it with maths so what I've got is good old trial 'n' error. Eyeballing a few other 3d printed arms on Saturday, they do tend to look chunkier, more akin to my Falcon rears. I think I'll start by increasing the height of the main spars by about 50% at the inboard end, tapering to less at width, plus running a plate through the whole arm as I did at the rear. That would be a considerable strength increase while retaining, hopefully, decent looks. Another leftfield idea I have is to fix a strip of carbon sheet to the front of the arm, pivot to pivot, but I probably won't - I still want the arm to break first. I don't know when I'll get back to a meet like that but as soon as I can I will, and it's a perfect test bed for this buggy. So in the meantime I think this car should be my number one focus, to beef up the front a bit, and at the same time tackle my other minor niggles, which are: - too much slop in the front hub area. I intend to remedy this by increasing shaft engagement length (in place of 2mm adjustment with spacers, which I don't need) and designing all holes undersized to be accurately reamed to size manually. I've also currently got a mishmash of 5mm adjusters on there, because I experiment with what I've got in the spare box for sizes before fitting new, so that's an easy fix. - a bit too much width at the front, which I intend to fix by redesigning the c-hubs and possibly the uprights too. I may as well redesign if I'm reprinting because of the above slop issue, plus the big opportunity here relied on redesigning the arms, which I'm now doing anyway. Basically, my existing simple C-hub design places the wheel a way outside the suspension pivot - I could redesign to place the pivot outboard on the C-hub but only if I change the arm to clear more C-hub. Should be quite doable and a nice little design challenge. I may or may not redesign the upright at the same time - the current ones are fine but the Kyosho axle I'm using is longer than an M chassis one, so there may be a few mm in that but I'll probably only change it if I can stick with a consistent and big bearing size and if it makes a significant difference. - Rear camber link to spur cover clearance still needs attention -some baggy holes in some prints mean i think I'll reduce my printed hole size for M3 - the body, thin as it is over the rear tower, probably won't last. I probably won't change it now, because I like it, but at some point we'll move to a front half plus tower-mounted wing. - shared parts - as I redesign stuff I intend to keep parts sharing in mind, for stuff like arms and hubs especially. Would be great to run more cars with common spares. - and suspension settings. I think there's a bit too much roll at the moment, with this tending to lift a rear wheel at times. What should I do here? Harden up the front a little? Consider a front sway bar maybe (not designed in at the moment but I always had in mind a place for it) Edit: also changed the thread title
-
I personally think tt-01 is great for what it is… maybe you can try one out.
-
Good points made here. My motivation for this question was two fold. Firstly, the oil is indeed making a bit of a mess. A drop every session seems to be overdoing it. There is a lot of residual oil film on the outside of the can, and likely inside, that collects fine dust. Maybe I will reduce the application to one drop when a vehicle is taken off the shelf for the first time in a long while. I had figured the bushings were a sintered metal, like Oilite, based on their appearance. Nevertheless, I thought the extra lubrication couldn't hurt, but it actually may be if it is fouling up the innards of the motor. A little bit goes a long way, especially with the synthetic engine oil I am using, much like Juggular is using in his application. The second motivation for this question is that the two vehicles with basically new Torque Tuned motors are making a noise that I attribute to the motor. It is the classic "chatter" sound of a shaft spinning in a bushing that is worn or dry or both. It's that nasty squealing/shrieking sound and it seems to be at a frequency that matches the motor rpm. It also is most noticeable at very light loads and goes away under heavy acceleration. It just seemed odd that a new motor would behave this way. Wasn't sure if anyone else is experiencing this.
-
Unfortunately the Dakar body doesn't come with the CMX - The body came from rally legends rc over in Europe. I bought one from a place in Italy, Ital trading. I don't know if any are left as I think it was produced about ten years ago. The CMX was a used slider I picked up to go under it. I do wish someone would produce Dakar truck/lorry bodies for rc. It seems like you could sell the front & back separately; various cabover truck brands in front with various rear body styles (the stepped shown here, straight back, angled down, etc.)...
-
Interesting. if the BT-01 is 4WD, overall it will be similar to a TC-01 in layout?
-
Progress. Not much but progress. Need to bind the receiver and center the servo before I do anything else.
-
One more TXT-2 "Agrios"
Mouc-RC replied to Mouc-RC's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Few hours of "decaling" later... Body's wheelbase is a bit off (and I still have to mount that rear steering servo "behind the axle"), but I think I'm happy, with that orange marrying the sunset light well First time I try to accentuate the panels lines! Tough job I found, steady hand needed! Before using a thin black pen, I "carved" the lines with a self-tapping screw. Gosh, I was nervous. -
@SlideWRX what a gorgeous Dakar truck. I didn't know about this one; MST are definitely a surprising brand and perhaps underrated brand. Dakar trucks are not only one of the few forms of trucks that get me excited but the teal Petronas liveries are my absolute favorite. Jealous!
-
Your dedication is admirable đŸ˜„ When i was running 54000 M Chassis dampers on my TT01E the Short Spring Set 2 54797 was really good. Not pretty colours, but very short.
-
HI @TurnipJF I considered writing this post but was too afraid of stepping on Postal Racing's toes - I am glad you wrote this! In fact, in an attempt to entertain myself I considered appending some "endurance" driving impressions to my build thread. Here are just some thoughts from a very casual driver: Race Length: With lipo technology already decades old and enabling cars to run well above an hour I think 30min race time would be a nice wink at the old days, when race time had to be limited because the poor electric cars just couldn't manage more than a few minutes out of their 1200mah NiCd. On the Group C - for example - the kit-supplied Sport Tuned motor consumes less than 300mah per 5min of Postal style driving. Bashing aimlessly at full throttle would certainly use more, ditto if the track were just made of long straight and giant sweepers rather than technical 'in-field' kind of layout. That means that a 20$ shorty pack would yield at least an hour of runtime. Without getting into the details, I never received the round lipo I ordered over 2 months ago so I have been using my regular 4600mah shorty; it drops directly into the square portion of the battery compartment! A nice surprise, but it requires undoing 4 screws. Not a huge deal, and thumb nuts are on the way. So I just want to make sure we are not refraining from doing a 30min race length if everybody is on-board with lipo's. Also we could always have that mandatory 2min stop suggested by @skom25, I would say "to be chosen at any time during the 30min race" which would add to the fun. Pit Stops: While we are talking about stops, I was initially going to propose a stop not for battery change (which didn't even occur to me :D) but to rotate tires as that would greatly extend the life and improve the wear pattern of foam tires, while at the same time conveying the spirit of 1:1 pit stops which is super fun. We can make it a fixed mandatory time as well if we want to make things easier and take out the competitive aspect of rushing through pit stops. Either way seems fun. Classes: Perhaps we could start off with a single class for the first round and later on further diversify depending on how many people manage to enter? Track: It all comes down to how much room people have and we should be careful not to have people miss out because they do not have enough space. At the same time, when the 5mx8m of Postal Racing suits the M chassis and AWD retro buggies like a glove cars like the Group C, even with the kit motor, do feel like a lion in a (small) cage on Postal Tracks! I am lucky to have access to full size basketball courses so I have little space limitation to complain about - others can voice their space restrictions. If people are able to go bigger, then a simple solution would be to start with the current month's Postal Track and multiply all coordinates by 1.5, making it fit a 7.5mx12m space. Other Rules: As for the other rules such as "enter as many times as you wish", I actually thought that we already have that with Postal Racing, and it doesn't even work too well for Mr. Tired Father of Three but for some reason I got excited about the idea of preparing the car, doing a few test runs to fine tune the setup, measure current consumption, pick the right track location etc and then as a single "happening" for each month, enter the endurance race once. Then it gives something unusual to look forward to every month etc. We cold also increase race time if everybody is on-board. All the above is just some thinking out loud! I am happy with anything the greater number of merry drivers want to do!
-
I was practicing a bit with my Dark Impact yesterday, finally decided to give it a go and ordered some track markers, the missus didn't agree to use the dishes from the kitchen. It oversteered a lot, I got the impression that the rear diff was very loose. Can that be related to each other? Tightened the front diff, but failed to do so with the rear one, did I screw that one up?
-
I would be very surprised that they fit. They look 1.9 or 2 inches in mounting diameter, maybe even 2.2? Sand Scorcher & Super Champ are 1.55, and Rough Rider & Ford Ranger are 1.7 (happy to be corrected if I'm wrong / sorry if I am) Edit: if BBX tires are 1.9 (to be confirmed), you could try them on a pair of 22077 rims by Tamiya, just like below. Fits SRB's perfectly.
- 1 reply
-
- 3
-
Nismo R34 GT-R Z-Tune TT-02D MOTOR options
skom25 replied to ThorsNana's topic in Build Tips and Techniques
Definitely check pinion. I am 99% sure that there is the cause of issue.- 12 replies
-
- nismo r34
- motor tamiya
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with: