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  1. Past hour
  2. Muso31 started following Madcap
  3. Muso31
    Looks great! Which ball connector nut did you use in the C-Hub to connect to the turnbuckle ends? Is it a 5mm ball end and an M3 x 15mm screw?
  4. Gebbly
    Every video I see of someone soldering involves them using some sort of clamps and it looked like a good idea. I didnt want to spend hundreds of pounds which seems possible so got a basic kit with everything for cheap and then I can upgrade bits if they need it. Last time soldering was about 25 years ago in university, big fat blobs of solder everywhere
  5. Today
  6. Saito2
    I avoid sand in everything but something simple with relative few pivot points, like a Lunch Box. In my mind, the abrasive nature of sand is going to chew at things no matter what. I can completely visualize @nowinaminute's experience of sand -bound dry pivot points and I do see grease helping improve that situation. In the end, sand is going to get in there and scuff things up and will need cleaned out. It might be harder to clean, clumped up with grease, but it will perform better in action. Wear and cleaning will be the results either way IMO.
  7. alvinlwh
    Out dragons seem to be great at picking up stuff. I got half a football field's worth of grass wrapped around my rear drive. šŸ¤£
  8. nowinaminute
    Tried dry lube but it does nothing to stop it getting into places and binding stuff. It could well be a factor of grain size, plus I tend to run in the very dry sand that kicks up in clouds everywhere. Seems to affect different vehicles differently, too. I don't recall ever having a problem with my Lunchbox or heavy dump truck, for example (apart from now and then it will get into the steering link ball joint on the dump truck) But certainly the Thunder Dragon has done it every time I've taken it out. In particular it gets stiff in these places. There's such a small contact area I was in disbelief that it was sand at first but after cleaning and reassembling again, it went back to being smooth as silk. Then I ran it again and the same thing happened. But after adding grease, it would make it through a run without binding. I also had the same thing with the TD steering assembly. Although to be fair, this has happened after running in fine dirt as well, so not exclusive to the beach. But the same kind of thing where sand seems to get in and seize it up, preventing it from centering properly after a steering input. Again, only adding some grease seemed to prevent it. You can see in the photo where grease has caught the sand, but has also stopped it getting further inside, assessed on the mechanism still being free after several runs whereas before it got stiff and "crunchy" after every run. I suppose like most things in life, there's a thousand variables at work simultaneously so there's no catch all answer for every scenario. I still general avoid greasing for the most part, but in some cases it certainly seems to help. On a side note, I've taken my Kyosho Mad Van to the beach just 3 times with no grease and look at the ball joints on the front uprights šŸ˜³ That part has never seen grease and it's getting nicely chewed up, still.
  9. rwordenjr
  10. dannymulder
    I am running my cars for years 99% of the time on the beach, and I never use grease, in the begin when I started the hobby I used grease but It was acting like a grinding paste and stuff wear quickly. So grease on the beach is a big no no for me, but to be honest I do not have the experience that things seized up like steering and suspension arms, and to put grease on them every run and then remove it and put new on seems like a lot of work, maybe it is the grain of the sand why I do not have seized up parts, the grain here on the beach is rough. Maybe use Dry lube, I have used that and it works fine.
  11. Wooders28
    Got me into metal!! I recorded it off the radio, and would keep rewinding it, just to listen to Eddie (didn't know it was him at the time though.. ) Kind of on topic, Shinedown's new album is awesome! Had to Google it, but aye, opinions are fine, just don't try and force them on me, and tell me mine are wrong.
  12. Wooders28
    They remind me of school!! You knew you were in for a easy class, when one of those bad boys got rolled in, carrying half a tonne of CRT TV though... Not jealous at all..šŸ™„ Love it!! How awesome would an old 850.T5 be, infront of that.šŸ˜
  13. GeeWings
    That looks great. I've currently just got a soldering iron but no way to actually hold things in place which normally leads to some pretty comical set-ups when it comes time to solder
  14. Willy iine
    I use stackable shoe boxes (plastic bins) mainly for bulky spare parts and just stack them up after labeling them. Labels are general too.. either chassis names or by category.
  15. Mrowka
    FyI, I tried the liquid masking tape idea on a piece of scrap lexan, with one edge of the plastic film lifted. Seemed to work.
  16. Nikko85
    I took my brushless QD beetle buggy to the park. Only drove for 3 mins as I was also with my 3 month old but had a blast anyhow. The beetle was great in the dirt, creating huge rooster tails of dust as it sped along. At 208 mm it's the longest wheelbase of all my cars, this seemed to help it track straight on the very loose surface, with controllable slides when turning. It ran well over short grass too with the suspension soaking up bumps better than I thought it might, considering it's essentially a 1/14 GH. 9.6 volt at 5200 kv gave enough speed and some, definitely a car for big open spaces where the cogging at low throttle is not a issue. Not great for driving where you can crash into things!
  17. Re-Bugged
    This thread should help too, happy organising, I often find stuff Iā€™d forgotten about just digging through now and again šŸ˜‰
  18. Re-Bugged started following RC Gallery Comment thread and Help: spares, hop-ups, scraps
  19. Re-Bugged
    Itā€™s a tricky one as everyoneā€™s space is different. There have been a few threads on here, searching ā€˜Storageā€™ (title only) throws up most of them. I used to keep stuff model specific, but now the collection has grown that was getting less practical. I just keep types of screws/fixings/hardware in groups, machine thread screws in one tub, course thread in another, ball connectors in another etc etc. Sprueā€™s are kept in a Monster Beetle kit box. Bigger bits like motors, servos and ESCā€™s have there own tub. Iā€™ve tried to keep the bigger tubs the same as stacking then is much easier. An under the desk drawer unit houses my PS paints, Soldering gear and sundries in the top. Hereā€™s some ideas for such stuff..
  20. GeeWings
    Not as exciting as a Marui Galaxy but these arrived for my City Turbo today...
  21. burakol
    I only have about dozen Tamiya cars and one Traxxas Summit in my stable. I've been meaning to tidy up garage and the puny workspace I have. With the amount of space we have in our house, it is imperative that I organize the "important" stuff I have so the misses will not give me an earful. My main challenge is I don't know where/how to start. I didn't realized that I have amassed a fair amount of spares/extra parts from the parts trees that were unnecessary for the build, now I don't know if I have any use for them but I fear that if I throw them out, I may ended up needing something down the road. I also have bought some hop-ups and spares just because and it is in a plastic container together with a bunch of RC stuff. I am interested to know how do you guys keep yours organized? Do you have a plastic bin for each model containing hop-ups, extras parts, etc? Or do you organize them by type/parts (ie, motors, ESCs, servos, etc?) in one plastic container? For the screws, I have a small drawer with multi compartments that I just throw the screws in and any other random tiny bits. For the batteries, I do have a Bat-safe that I styore my LiPos in. Just interested to know what you guys do and any suggestions are appreciated.
  22. Yesterday
  23. alvinlwh
    I had been making static models for decades and (almost) all serious model makers I know of only use Tamiya tape and nothing else. They are the only one I had tried that masks cleanly and removes cleanly. If cost is a issue, only use Tamiya tape for the edges and cheaper masking tape for the "insides".
  24. Re-Bugged
    Thanks very much @Willy iine, it was a bit of a masking tape marathon but super happy with the end result. I think the GT is really nice bodyshell and Iā€™m dying to take it for a spin when time and weather permits. Iā€™m sure the TTO2R itā€™s riding on will be a big improvement to the bog stock TT02 that came with it and ended up under my MK1 Escort.
  25. Willy iine
    @Re-Bugged Wow your latest Ford super car is fantastic!! Very nicely done as always.
  26. Mrowka
    I am not the greatest paint and body man out there, but I know that not all masking tape is created equal. I've had my best results using 3M frog tape.
  27. Willy iine
  28. Willy iine
    Test fitted both Willy and Billy on my Sabre Miniā€™s. I noticed I cannot fit a driver on the M03 and M05ā€™s (unless I mount the driver onto the chassis on the M05 which I donā€™t care to do). I may do the BSR Basher m-chassis, but no more on the Tamiyaā€™s. oh well.. Going to hit the platforms with some matte black next. Update.. I finished the light blue and posted pictures in the gallery only thread. I am working on the green one next. This is on my TOP Racing Sabre Mini FWD.. the green one I will post later is my Sabre Mini 4WD (m-chassis).
  29. GeeWings
    Could you not just peel a little more film away and then cover with tape on the body and over the film? As for masking tape; just be careful, Iā€™ve had bleeds with regular tape. As much as some supplies with Tamiya name on them can seem overpriced I think their tape is worth every cent.
  30. GeeWings
    Honestly I like the idea of painting the drivers but the reality frustrates me. I think Iā€™m adding visors on mine from now on so I get the fun of painting without the frustration of the face part!
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