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  2. Before and after... scary to think that there is a potential 39 year gap between these bodies!
  3. Hopefully this is the last one its getting kinda expensive but I'm thinking probably not I'm going to put the dynatech in it because of its colour not an exact match with the uprights and shocks but near enough for me!
  4. Oh thanks for the head up! I've not looked at my wheels yet just the manual I'll have a look! Are you spraying them TS gunmetal?
  5. Ive spotted something on the internet in Denmark and I don't think they ship to the UK. Is there a member from Denmark willing to help🤞🏻 Sven
  6. Another little job I managed to tick off this weekend was sorting out the fairlead on the front of the BOM. I'd been using a roller type that came attached to a cheap scale winch a long time ago, but it bit the rocks at the Scaler Nationals and acquired some damage. This new fairlead by SSD arrived in the week. Hole spacing seems the same, so it looks like this will be a quick fix Installed, with longer screws from my parts tub Job jobbed, ready for some trail action again! Although I'm pretty sure the splines stripped on the drum at the Nationals, so that's another quick job that needs doing...
  7. Next up, I decided to install the new 50-70mm propshaft I got from RCBitz. It's listed as an RC4WD part, but comes in JD Models packaging. It wasn't cheap - £55 - but is listed as being strong and scale. The part looks nicely-made and seems sturdy and attractive (although the latter attribute is less of an issue on this build). The studded rings around either end are detachable - I think they're made like this for appearance only, but the unions are probably weaker without them installed. Underneath the rings, however, the threads in the unions were neither entirely happy-looking, nor drilled square, so I couldn't easily get a threaded grub all the way through. That's a bit of a step backwards, ideally a propshaft has a pin going all the way through to stop it popping off or spinning on the input / output shafts. One I put my old shaft next to my new one, I realised there was going to be a problem. This is with the new shaft fully compressed, and the old shaft without the cup installed. With the new shaft fully extended to its maximum length of 70mm, the splines are literally only just engaged. So, a "50 - 70mm" range isn't really valid - I'd say 60mm is the max to get any strength, and 65 the maximum allowable extension before it's at risk of popping out. Turns out my shaft needs to be around 71-72mm, so this expensive little item is simply not going to work at all. Which was a shame, as that's a lot of money to spend on a propshaft. I've ordered a cheaper, longer Punisher shaft which hopefully will be about right, be shortenable if it's too long, have sufficient angle in the UJs and be strong enough to transmit the load for all 6 axles. If not, the project might well be stalled once more while I find a suitable shaft. Fingers crossed it gets here in time for the weekend - parcels are taking a while to get here now as we enter the Christmas rush with all the postal strikes going on.
  8. Today
  9. Switch installed on the battery tray, for convenience LED lights make the tail lamps. I'll 3d print a boss to install them in so they don't poke through so far.
  10. I didn't get a lot of workshop time this weekend, as I had to be at a mate's 40th birthday party in Bristol for midday. Since I'm terrible at getting motivated if there's something on the calendar that I need to switch off and be present for, and also because I'd skipped my usual Friday evening walk because my wife was out at a market, I decided to head out to the countryside in the morning to get in a few miles of fresh air. I didn't get back the workshop until after 3pm, so I decided I'd focus on some smaller, simpler jobs instead of getting stuck into something that could take the rest of the day. One thing that needed doing - one of those simple, 10 minute jobs that is really complicated and takes hours - was wiring up the lights on the 6x6. I won't be installing full functional lights on this rig (although the cab supports it), instead I just want simple headlights out front and tail lights on the back. I opted to hook the lights up to the programmer port on the ESC. Mainly this is because I'd already installed the radio and all the wires in the waterproof receiver box and didn't want the hassle of opening it all over again, also because it felt neater this way. I usually begin by hooking up all the LEDs to a breadboard, to make sure I've got my resistor values right before I start soldering things. In this instance I couldn't find my breadboard, which prompted 5 minutes of me wandering around the workshop saying "Where's me breadboard? Eh? Eh? Have you seen it, sir? Have you seen it, madam? I've seen you wrapping presents when it's nobody's birthday!" before I eventually found it on the workbench. I then totally got into a Thing, and did pretty much the entire soldering and braiding job without picking up the camera, before I took this somewhat awkward pic of the braided wires being cable tied along with the motor wires. The whole thing was slightly awkward, as cables run off in various directions and somehow or other I managed to make them just a little bit too short.
  11. Wired up the Egress black and gave some color to the driver and wheels. The gray wheels looked incredibly cheap as is.. like a Mini-yonku wheel.. even my Gamebol's wheels are painted..
  12. I've just received a PJ shipment via FedEx and mine is the same - repacked with the internal PJ paperwork missing. I guess FedEx have taken them for Customs purposes, although several previous shipments that came via DHL were intact. The order was just under £135, and shouldn't attract charges, so that won't be why it was opened.
  13. Hi magpie, you are correct. 9805486 is the new generation, red bladder design. These I have. I´m looking for a replacement for them with a better design. (more flat) VQS Hicap set is the same as for Egress. You don´t need to buy single Egress parts at the moment. There are still some suppliers around, that have the complete VQS Hi Cap set. Top Force instead has short /short Hicaps, so long bodies front and rear. If you use the Hicap set on an original Vanquish/VQS/Avante 2001 front shock tower, you have to use internal spacers coming with the kit, to reduce the extended length. Or you get the optional front shock mount for Hicaps. The X-shaped one. Unfortunately, it´s not supplied anymore in the VQS damper set. Oh Tamiya... In the first batch, a carbon version was included. Back in the days, an FRP version came with the mini Hicap set for the Vanquish with the same geometry. Kind regards, Matthias
  14. I can't believe I forgot about it This car kicked off whole Scale RC rally thing here in Czechia and it was The rally car for years. Many people still race them today. Although, only the red gearboxes suggest it was a TA02 in the past (Photo from Embie Racing)
  15. Following my question from yesterday, is this Tamiya's definitive XV-02 option parts list? https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/catalogs/XV-02_parts_catalog.pdf If it is, I think it is clear that 54379 is an option for the single piece non-adjustable suspension mount, but I don't see any confirmation that the separate non-adjustable ones 54376 & 54377 fit (and their fitment looks quite different to 54884, which takes 2 screws and looks shorter). Would be very grateful for anyone's insight on this. (sorry for slight thread hijack! Should I be asking somewhere else?)
  16. Oh wow! Good thing you didn't slip. Be careful next time. My daughter would love to practice ice skate on that small frozen pond though if she saw it.
  17. Thank you @Nicadraus! Believe it or not, I had a couple close calls while attempting to take it 🤣 the ice was thick enough to carry my weight but fully detached from the sides, so it tipped when I stepped on it and I almost slipped in the water while holding the buggy in my hands. Well worth the risk ahah
  18. hello are these for vqs or egress,there part no. 9805486 on ebay under egress.iam trying to get set of front hi caps for egress but only do in parts or for vqs.which are shorter.
  19. I tried this with my FF-03RR and S10. But are running with Radiolink RC4GS RX (with built-in gyro) and activated them. Well it didn't turn out great and very unpleasant to drive because the gyro tries to correct that car's movement and makes it run straight right after turning and spoils the drifting. So I deactivated both and didn't bother using the gyro again.
  20. Page 1 edited. Check that XV-01 out from your cart now. It'll help you move on from the TA-02 and help you experience what a proper modern rally car is. You'll thank me though.
  21. Oh but there are ice spots underneath already (pretty chilly up here), making the uneven spot a bit too uneven to drive. And much more snow coming anyway. It's like this every year, during the transition season I just wait one out until there's an even layer, then it's worth carving a truck again (even got a new snow blower for that!). These are the only conditions for me in the winter 😉 we get tons of snow and it's also very cold, so this is it until April at least. Great fun with the cars but better when it's fully covered in snow. Even the smallest pebble can be deadly when stuck in ice I have the same problem finding good spots salt-wise, unless of course I showel my own but there's not always time for it! That's why I do a bit less postal racing and more free running in the cold season. Carving a track on snow/ice is great fun for driving though! Just no great lap counts.
  22. Great, as you've already got a dump this could be a very cheap add on, really just need a drill and an extra servo, plus a few little spares you'll probably have.
  23. Right place at the right time literally gone into my local hobby shop for thin masking tape for corners and just to catch up with the owner really! and they had just received their orders from tamiya 5 minute before so they are now in the uk I know technically not delivered to my door by any delivery company but delivered to the shop (just putting that out there before certain people go off on one)
  24. If you were going down the rescue services route as you mention the police, a variant would be the fire brigade. That ties in with the squirt gun/water canon that are on some fire trucks. You could also add a ladder to the roof which could extend and retract via the transmitter. For style points flip a switch to then use the transmitter controls to rotate and extend/retract the ladder to aim it at a window to rescue people. You could even add large extending support legs like you get on some heavy vehicles (cranes?) to hold them stable when stationary. The sort that extend by remote control e.g. https://www.dreamstime.com/hydraulic-foot-crane-extended-side-truck-outrigger-stabilizer-support-to-mobile-telescopic-close-up-image163771924 You could add a digger arm to front or back. A tow truck rig to toe away naughty parked RC cars that dad left on a double yellow The automated sort I have seen in the US where the truck backs up to the vehicle and then arms automatically slide under the car behind and lift its front end. (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WkIi_XF8KE about 3:30 in)
  25. Lots of great new pics as usual @Ferruz But this one is something new. Great!
  26. Sounds! Not engine sound. But music sound. There are many small bluetooth speakers now that can fit inside and playback via bluetooth 5.0 or 5.1 which can reach up to 20 meters of no thick solid obstruction like think concrete walls. I think it would be cool. Which by the way makes me want to put in my crawler.
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