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  2. Hi. I have built various Tamaya kits but I’m new to the king yellow and similar chassis. I bought one used/pre-built a few months ago and yesterday my kids flipped it causing what looks like the steering system to jam. Not being all that familiar with these kits, it looks like the steering arm pivots around a metal pin. If you see the attached video (could only take a very short one due to file size limit) , it’s now jammed to one side and almost seems like it’s now spring loaded to that side. Does that mean the metal pin could be bent? If so, it looks like the only way to push it back out is to disassemble the chassis and push it out from top to bottom. Is that required or does anyone know if there’s an easier way to try getting that out since according to the instruction manual it looks like it is tapped in during assembly. Thank you for the suggestions. Rob 73559615556__41048666-1D55-493E-91AA-2C2780B87ACB.MOV
  3. The only way I am financially able to justify this hobby is by completely ignoring Kyosho products. If I go down the Kyosho rabbit hole, like I did with Tamiya I just dont think I could viably continue in this hobby whilsts raising a family haha. However, the Turbo Optimo is just gorgeous!!!
  4. I have considered making a parallel plug so I can plug all 3 in at once and not have to stop. However, like you say, there is the risk that one would drain faster than the others. I know one of the packs is weak (it was replaced by Modelsport after I showed it had a weak cell on receipt) and there would be no way to tell if one was getting drained unless I put LiPo alarms on all of them. The other problem is that I'd have no warning before the packs dumped. At least right now I can estimate how far I'll go after I make the first pit stop. I averaged 3.25 miles per pack, which is pretty bad, and given I did 9 miles, that meant I potentially only had 0.75 of a mile left. If I'd plugged all 3 in at once and gone for a 10 mile walk, I'd have been carrying it for a quarter of a mile. The final version will (hopefully) have a Deans connector hard-mounted somewhere where it's easy to plug one pack out and plug the next one in with a single hand. I don't know if there's such a thing as a surface-mount Deans connector, but if not, I'll make one
  5. So, were there any issues that need resolving? Well, I've already mentioned the Arduino problems with the inertia settings. I can either turn the inertia down, or find a way to turn it off from the transmitter. I've run out of channels, so I'll have to find a new way - maybe pull-and-hold on the right stick? Gearing - it's too high. In 1st gear it would be OK if it was a regular rig, but with all the batteries on board it's too heavy. I was kinda hoping I could tow a trailer, but I don't think it'll have the torque. Perhaps a 5-pole motor would help (it definitely helped in Big6 where this same 55-turn Novak motor struggled) or maybe going to a 550 or 600 can, if it will fit. I spent a lot of time tracking down a small 1:1 transfer case that would fit, but perhaps a transfer case with a reduction would be better, if I can find one small enough. In 2nd gear it's a speed demon - given the weight, it's too fast for its own good. It looks pretty impressive gliding down the gravel, but my plans of sticking it in 2nd and idling it along on the trails are dashed - it just doesn't have the torque. If I can get a 50% reduction via a transfer case, 2nd gear might be a more realistic ratio for the gravel paths. Suspension - way too soft. Not surprising since I'm using the standard (long) shocks off the CFX-W with all that weight in the back. I wound up the rear springs but there's no damping at all. The good news is there's enough space to get a proper chunky shock in there, so that's what I'll do. I normally steer clear of cheap Chinese shocks because they're too stiff, but in this case they may be just right. CoG - too high. To be expected given the body style and material, but right now it won't side-hill at all, it just falls over. Having the batteries mounted on their side can't help, they'll be flat in the final version. It would be nice if I could suspend two of them either side of the floor, but there might not be space with the suspension links and sway bar, plus it puts them at risk of damage from rolling over rocks. They're only softies, and I don't fancy a LiPo fire on the trails. When the truck nears completion I'll buy some new wheels and tyres (probably the same as what's on the front now, as they're cheap, effective, and look right, plus then I'll have 4 spares - 2 for the spare carrier and 2 for a trailer). Then I'll be able to put weights inside the tyres (the ones I have are pre-glued, so I can't) and that will help keep the wheels down. I also need to add some scale parts under the floor - fuel tanks, air tanks, etc - and I can put weights in those to keep the weight down. Ultimately, though, it's always going to be a top-heavy truck, and I need to control that with the suspension. Servo mount - too soft. I can see it flexing just wiggling the axle. It's a standard Tamiya mount, but modified. If I make another out of aluminium, I can allow space for the front servo winch. Propshafts - squeak like a mouse. The rear shaft is a Cross RC one, which is good and has very little play, but the other is an Aliexpress Special and squeaks real bad the whole time. Come to think of it, something in the suspension squeaks also - my sway bar, maybe? But, when all's said and done, despite all those problems, it managed almost 9 miles on its first outing and despite some nasty rolls (one on the gravel path after the servo glitched) it's come back without a scratch on that unused Scania cab, so hopefully it'll still look good when I clean it up and throw some paint at it.
  6. Update: I decided to check servo internals. I removed all parts, cleaned them with dry brush to not risk with degreaser etc. and used Tamiya Ceramic Grease on gears. Stock grease was surprisingly dirty. I think it was another victim of TT-02. I had the same servo used previously in TT-02B, opened it and it was cleaner, despite I ran it for much, much longer. Most tricky was to assembly gears properly, because it was hard to set them ideally in the center. It does not matter too much, because movement range in car is far from movement limits of servo. After assembly, I did a lot of testing if it centers properly etc. Everything is fine. I am not sure why, but I have only two photos. Then I cleaned it from outside, straightened wire and replaced connector, because previous was scratched. It took me quite a long time to service it, I did few mistakes, but at least I learned new thing.
  7. Do you run the batteries one after another? Could they be run in parallel, or do you run the risk of over draining one of them?
  8. got a few parts for my Yokomo RD2.0 project. Yokomo aluminium front shock tower, Axon aluminiums big bore dampers and Hiro Seiko aluminium spacers.
  9. It’s cool to see the H-pin tires again. Those will make a Lazer ZX-R rere a bit easier..
  10. I've mentioned this over on the Arduino thread, but I'll say it again here: I had some weird glitching in the truck at this point. Whether it's proximity to the army camp (something for jamming drones, perhaps? or interference from military radio systems?) or coincidence that I switched to the same dodgy battery pack, I can't say, but I had a very problem last time I tested the Arduino here. My battery ran out right here that time, too. Sometimes, the truck would be running along with no problem, then the Arduino would reboot, like it had lost power. I tried wiggling the connectors, which may or may not have helped, because after that it would act like it was going into failsafe mode - i.e. all the servo outputs would centre and the drag brake would come on. A few times I was walking right behind it and almost tripped over it. I programmed the failsafe to output centre signals to all servos if the Arduino receives the exact same input across all 8 channels for 10 consecutive reads. Even with all the sticks centred, the values read by the Arduino are generally a couple of microseconds apart - whether that's an inherent lack of accuracy in the FlySky radio or a timing issue on the Arduino, I can't be sure, but either way it makes for an easy way to tell if the Tx has died. But somehow it acted like that was happening up on Imber Path, although it did get better the further along the road I got. Strange. Anyhoose, after almost 3 hours and 50 minutes we made it back to the van, averaging 2.3 miles per hour, with a total distance of almost 9 miles and an elevation change of almost 800 feet (although surely there's some clever maths going on there, because if I had walked a circular route and finished 800 feet higher than I'd started I'm sure I would have noticed). At this point there wasn't much to do besides take one last parting shot of the sunset, then head home for a pizza to replenish all the calories I'd burned on the trails.
  11. @Jonathon Gillham sorry if I asked about this already, but I cannot find this: What is your opinion about 3PV? I really have doubts, if it makes sense to buy 4PM for "bashing" but I want to have reliable Radio. Price difference is huge.
  12. A little way on, and we're stopped again, this time to swap batteries. 4.3 miles in a single 4250mAh 3S pack isn't too bad, but nowhere near what I was getting out of the CFX-W. That said, the Scania is (as I have mentioned) very heavy, plus the gearing is kinda high - a little too high in low gear, tbh, although I'm not sure how I can fix that. Plus, any time the motor is stalled, it'll be pulling a lot of amps from the battery, and that's going to drain it fast. If I can implement a way to disable the inertia for rough sections, I'll probably save half a mile. Anyway, I swapped over the battery - so simple now - and carried on. The next couple of miles were pretty easy going, and I didn't take any more photos as I was enjoying the walk and the drive. I found a nice technical climb, which the Scania got up without too much trouble, although again I had to be very positive with the throttle to keep the inertia values up, and it was smelling hot at the top. It soon cooled off once we were on the flat, and managed a tricky descent and a long, gentle climb up a gravel path without any trouble. At that point, we faced a dilemma. The quickest way back was across a very rough field with no proper path, even the CFX-W struggles over there - there was no way the Scania would do it. Another option was to get on the tarmac lane that takes us back onto the ridge where I'd changed the battery, but I don't like going back on myself, so that left the Endless Climb back up to the Imber Path. I wanted to stay off the tractor trails, as the chevron tyre ruts make the Scania work hard, so I took a path I'd never taken before, which was very pretty but unfortunately was still rough on the Scania, and again, I needed to keep the throttle up to stop it bogging down and stalling. Here's a look back down the trail that we came up. The sun wasn't far off setting, the camera makes it look lighter than it was. A while later I came out on the Imber Path, about 300 metres from New Zealand Farm Camp, which is an army training based. The Imber Path is full gravel here and very dusty, so I tried to get some cool photos of the Scania kicking up dust in 2nd gear. Unfortunately, trying to drive a very heavy truck with a loose steering servo, locked diffs and very soft suspension very fast on loose gravel with an inertia-based steering and throttle system proved too difficult to do one-handed while also operating a camera, so this is as good as it got. And then the battery died. I guess that long run across the grass field followed by the long, rough climb to the path really took it out of the battery, because we only got just over 3 miles out of it.
  13. Here was my wiring solution. I used two 16 SWG into a bullet connector crimping them together. This way it's somewhat neat, or at least neater than it could be. All wired up it looks like this. The wires are a little longer than needed for sure. And with the li-ion in the battery bay. I also sprayed the tires in WD40 and left for 8 hours in a sealed bag. They are much much better for this. Now I can test it. The car is pretty nippy on fast gear. Slow gear slows it right down, and it can crawl ok, although I am a little worried about stripping gears to want to try and power up too much. What is interesting is how dramatically the locked front diff reduces the turning circle. The gear selector is a little tricky, essentially the gears have to line up for the gears to shift over particularly going into low gear which needs two sets to line up. Manually this was probably done by rolling the car forward and back, but I am finding that sometimes the gears just don't change. It may be I have added too much grease in the gearbox, stopping them slide past. I may also consider the option of beveling the gears so they can slot in a little more easily. I could also consider a stronger spring as perhaps that has lost tension after 40 years?
  14. Today
  15. 3 miles in and we had our first problem. I describe this in more detail over in the Arduino Scaler Controller thread, but essentially, the problem is the inertia-based throttle. When I add throttle, or release it, the Arduino calculates an inertia-based increase or decrease in throttle, so the truck builds up speed slowly and slows down slowly, just like a real truck. The problem over rough terrain is that the truck (which is very heavy with 3x batteries, toolkit, and lots of metal parts) gets stalled on the bumps and needs a lot of power to get over them. Because the power is fed in slowly, it takes a while for the truck to get enough power to unstall itself. This allows lots of heat to build up in the motor while it's stalled. After a short, steep climb over some rutted ground, the motor was smelling seriously hot. I'd skimmed the comm just before I went out as it had overheated last time I used it in Big6, but it'll probably need another skim and new brushes. At this point it was making so little power it could barely move under its own steam, however there was a short (but steep) route back to the van, if I had to abort and head home. I didn't really fancy carrying it, so I syphoned some water out of my hydration pack and poured it over the motor, which was almost too hot to touch, then sat down for 10 minutes. A horse rider came along and wanted to talk about it, so I totally nerded her out talking about inertia values and C++ pointers and motor-turn-to-Kv relationships. Then some big boys on motorcycles arrived and we all got scared. The next part of the walk was a long, continuous climb through the trees, and I wondered if the motor might just get hot again right away, but it went fine. We got to the top of the hill and went through a nice easy flat wooded section before we got to the boundary of the Military Vehicles Only zone, where I had a convenient concrete pillar to give the truck a good check over. We're 4 miles in at this point, which is about half way. First problem I noticed was the servo had come loose on the servo mount. In this photo you can just about see the JIS self-tapping screws behind the chassis rail, but I couldn't get a driver on them to tighten them up, and getting the mount out requires a partial strip-down of the chassis, so I decided to just leave it as it was and carry on. What you can't see (and I almost missed until I was flipping the rig back over) is the screw holding the steering rod to the servo horn had almost completely backed out. If I'd lost that on the trails it would probably have been game over, since I hadn't brought any spare screws and I don't think there's another long screw I could have borrowed from elsewhere on the rig that would have left it in a driveable condition.
  16. I’d imagine better plastics, pads and maybe even a better coating on the slipper plates.
  17. I think I like the layout so much from my 1/18th racing days. All the cars were this layout.
  18. This is my portable toolkit. It's got pretty much every tool I'll need for trail repairs, although sadly the tape won't fit and needs to go in my rucksack. Also the spare Tx batteries went in my rucksack as I was worried about the pack opening and them falling out on the trails. Since the rig has no lights yet, I stuck an old torch up in the cab just in case it got dark while I was out. And here we are, at 16:22, out on the trails. Mini bungee used to hold the cab closed, as I have no lock installed yet. 10 minutes later and we've descended the steepest part of the walk. It's a horrible downhill gravel track that I hate, but it's best to put it right at the start of the walk to get it done. I had some issues with steering on the descent. The truck has a tendency to turn in whichever direction it's leaning - I'm not sure if that's entirely due to the geometry (an on-chassis servo will always have some degree of bump steer) or if the servo mount is too soft. I could see the servo mount flexing a lot when testing in the workshop, and I was having to make big sweeping trim adjustments all night long, so I think I need to make a stronger servo mount. This should also give me space to mount the front winch, so win-win. The scenery is much nicer now spring has sprung.
  19. Back to the arches: on the final version these will be painted black and held in place with hot glue or impact adhesive for a tough, watertight fit, but for now I just stuck them down with silage tape. It's strong and waterproof. Then it was time to get busy with the wiring. I took the Arduino Mega256 with the latest version of the code, and plugged it in to the truck's electrics. ESC was stolen from Big6, as it's currently out of action with a broken interior and I won't have time to fix it for a while. Everything worked as planned. In the final version the battery packs will lie flat, but because of where I'd mounted the ESC, I had to stagger them and have them upright. I used servo tape to hold them down. (It worked well - despite some rough driving and a few rolls, they stayed put all night).
  20. I did not know that! Wish it was stil made in America!
  21. I found a 13.5T with the 17T pinion went really well. Just a cheap older model motor works too like a Trackstar, SpeedPassion, Rocket v3 etc, you don't need to spend much money on the motor. Mines back to silvercan just because of the smaller space we run in. FWIW the Super Hotshot comes with a GT Tuned and 13T or 15T pinions. Since I've been running the 15T pinion in the Boomerang I went with 15T in that too, but that Super Hotshot has been sitting almost complete for 9 months now so I can't say how it goes.
  22. The next thing I needed before going on a test-drive was something to protect the front lights. These are only screwed on at the inside, and they'll snap like a dry twig in a crash, do I definitely need some kind of protection. My original plan had been to make something out of brass rod, but I couldn't figure out how to mount it without it either taking an age to fabricate or looking silly. Instead, this 9.5mm square section alu bar is a nice fit behind the sump guard. Here's one option - bar mounted behind the guard. This gives a flat face and looks more "factory", but doesn't offer 100% protection, plus doesn't give me many options for adding more protection later. Also two lots of exposed screw heads on the front don't look quite right. Here's the other option - bumper mounted in front of the sump guard. Provides better protection, plus I recessed the screw heads in the bar so it looks neater. Also notice I radiused the ends of the bumper and used the bench polisher for a nice smooth finish. I prefer this for actual use, although it can easily be moved back behind the bumper later if I prefer a more scale appearance.
  23. Yes I meant I don't charge them in the radio, can't even blame autocorrect for that one! That is the same issue I had, even the local shops said they can't get them. I could get one from Hobbyking I think, but at about $60 when I have about 20 NiMH AA's already it just doesn't seem worth it.
  24. Most of our running is at race meets now which can be up to 3 a month (although hasn't been that many for ages now) with a few sessions in the backyard each month. They last long enough that it doesn't feel like I'm changing batteries all the time? Say 3 months, of using it for 12 hours or so at a guess? The one that I do find runs out quickly is the Sanwa M17. It uses a 1S lipo that it came with and seems to be flat every 2nd race meet. Its easy to charge, just plug into a USB port, but its remembering to when I never had that issue with the 2S in the MT4S, and I can just take spare AA's for the 3PV
  25. At that time I wanted to be more competitive and jumped the bus for the Exotek F1R2 conversion. I didn't want the F104 to end in parts and bought everything to complete the F1R2 to a full runner (pictures of this chassis will follow later). I was also fed up with the previous body and ordered two F60 body sets. I found the body a bit "empty" without the obvious Marlboro sponsoring: ...and cut the decals myself for Felipe and Kimis cars: First step was cutting white vinyl: Then add the small black stripes: Kimis body was elected to race on track: This is when one of my favorite photos was made:
  26. Given all the rain we had in March, I thought the ground might be wet - so I wanted to protect the inside of the rig from water. It'll never be 100% waterproof, but keeping the big splashes out will be helpful. I found these, which I have used for propping things on while I paint. Sliced in half. That's about right A chunk cut out to clear the spare wheel carrier Bit more to clear the wheels OK - that'll do for now...
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