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  2. First Post in here for a while, first delivery too. Just a little something to get me back in the groove.
  3. That 4409MD came stock in the Desert Fox from HK. I bashed my DF for a couple of years until I got sick of breaking front suspension pieces. That servo then went into a Stampede that my kids bashed for another couple of years. Now it is in my BL Stampede. I really like it, it's been great to me! I also picked up a couple of 1250TG's and a TS-920 to try out.
  4. So the printed tower and Tamiya CVA combo actually works surprisingly well at the front! This only took a few revisions on thickness too - quite happy. I need to adjust the pink parts which are old falcon parts but it works for the time being So instead of the intensive nose job, I found that I could get the body to sit lower and further forward with the removal of these two parts of the roll cage. This was not done lightly as this is a fairly delicate shell with cracks already and removing 2 of the precious few non cracked bars could really bite me in the rear. Eventually I just bit the bullet and did it because its less involved than cutting and extending the nose and I will be aiming to make another bar further along at a different angle. I'll also tweak the rear shock tower too. It needs to be a smidge thicker anyway. I got some nice goodies in the post today, Lunchbox axles and some ball joints. I was going to get blitzer shafts but these were £6 for the pair and are the right length, so that beats out £5 for a single blitzer part. They fit good, although the stock hobbyworld ball joints are absolutely woeful. I'm now dead set on changing the lot out. I was hoping to keep a few as it's not the cheapest thing in the world to keep buying joints but they're just too awful to be usable. I have since revised the pink falcon parts to give slightly better geometry for this car. Proper mockup with blitzer wheels! I think I can dig it, although I just have sort of gone the long way round to making a rubbish Mad bull
  5. T2Shop do indeed have it in stock, but the difference in price is about USD100 shipped, which I can't justify honestly. Thanks for the suggestion though.
  6. Is Tamico a option, maybe they do have it or T2Shop
  7. Today
  8. I actually remember seeing his work and being surprised that he was doing it freehand. I asked a couple of people - who are literally painting shells and other things for a living - and they were using vinyl and LM because of the increase in speed it afforded, but then they simply wouldn't agree to try something like JA's work or the freehand Hulk above at a 'normal' £ price. Their designs although technically awesome - literally no mistakes - were quite samey after a while. I'm doing the 2008 VIP Porche shell at the moment and I'm going to paint some of the details rather than using the stickers. Nerve wracking. Way back in the 90's when I was racing a chap at my club painted Sonic on the nose of a Cougar 2000 shell - it was incredible. And I think he did it with tape. Which made it even more nuts. Paint and graphics were his living though.
  9. Spool for the front I am with you. Thus my link to the Tamiya pads. By that you can turn the serial ball diff into a slipper spool. It will be locked up to a certain torque, when it can slip. I like that setup for this drivetrain, as the front can slip under high velocity crashes and save the bevel gears. It´s just a fail safe for "DNF" on high grip conditions. So running it first as getting it is a good start, but I would at least check the gear mesh the previous owner has adjusted. There are special shims in the kit for this purpose. If done properly without binding and not too much play, the drivetrain is very durable, especially running 21,5t to 17,5t classes. (It can stand even more).
  10. Don't run it. Put it on the shelf and admire it. Buy a new/used rere or used org for a runner. After one run it is no longer never run.
  11. Kit hands down. Build it, learn how it goes together, add your desired electrics, paint it as you wish. The satisfaction and knowledge gained from the build is invaluable.
  12. Not have done but planning to do. My 6yr old has an RC session tomorrow with a friend who has just got an RC for his birthday. I don't know what this lad has but I'm told it is '4x4 but doesn't run well on grass' so I'm guessing it is toy-grade. I'm debating whether to run the WW2, a Dual Hunter or the TL01 Bowler as there could be some tarmac / hard trail action. I might even take more than one. Whichever goes, I can't be too precious given the drivers! Better charge those NiMH this evening...
  13. hi, if you add a picture of the gear you need, i might have a used one you can have, and im in the uk.
  14. If any of you have followed my thread on my TA06 you will know I have struggled to get it handling in a way that I find enjoyable to drive/race. After my FF03 G4R became my go to fun driving racecar a few weeks back, I decided I would ditch 4wd and sell the TA06. But, RC being what it is, I hadn't even sold the 06 when this rather lovely TB03 popped up for sale at a great price Reasoning that it shares a lot of bits with my FF03 and I like the IFS on that, and with it being slightly more conventional drivetrain compared to the TA06, I thought I would give it a go. So, ebay auctions were cancelled and I have a nice new thing to learn about, plus a very hopped up TA06 to pillage parts from if I need to. Couple of observations from receiving it and getting into the manual. 1) It has ball diffs. I have a bad relationship with ball diffs in buggies. I simply cannot make them last. However, these seem really nice and smooth, and general consensus on these diffs is that they are good. @ruebiracer has advised me on some blocks for the front that can have a spool like effect, but one of the things I found with the TA06 was when I really stiffened the front diff it got really loose and oversteery off throttle into corners, which I found really hard to drive. It's great on throttle though. So, some work to do there to see if it's the TA06, me, setup or all three at fault with that. I can also drop in TB04/5 gear diffs if needs be (these would have to be purchased). 2) The stock spur gear attachment and prop shaft cups are plastic and held in place by some parts of dubious potential reliability. The prop shaft and outdrives themselves are metal and very solid, but some work to be done there. I have some 2mm grubs screws and 8mm o rings on there way to replace the awful plastic pin/clip part that holds the prop shaft cups on, and I found an aluminium spur gear holder at a reasonable price, but it will take weeks to arrive. The hope up universal prop shaft and rear drive cup are still around at a couple of the far east vendors, but they're hella expensive for what they are, so if I can make a couple of improvements to the kit parts I think this will be fundamentally sound. 3) Plastic servo mounts. I have some alloy RM01 mounts on the TA06, but they're a little deeper than the TB03 kit part, and the inboard one wouldn't fit under the prop shaft anyway. Got the left hand TB03 alloy mount on order to see if I can make it play with one of the RM01 parts. The servo a little further forward wouldn't bother the steering I don't think. 4) Lots of kit screws. I'm not completely obsessive about getting rid of these, but as a lot of the car will get removed to fiddle with at some point, anything crosshead will get replaced with allen key stainless as I go along. 5) Plastic suspension blocks. I have alloy ones on the TA06, but they're different widths and I'm going to hold off until I have driven it. Actually this last point is pretty key. Before doing anything (much), I want to get the electronics in it and just drive it, both here in the street and at the track. See what I'm dealing with before making any changes. It's proving quite hard to not tinker when I have some tasty stuff like the alloy blocks and TRF419 arms, ti turnbuckles on the TA06, but I want to see how it is inherently out of the box. It's getting the Surpass Rocket V3S 17.5 brushless motor and Trackstar D99X low profile servo out of my TA06, and a new Justock XR10 60A ESC. Waiting on some more Deans plugs to come before breaking out the soldering iron. Gearing will be 48dp, around 4.5 FDR, using a 66t spur and 36t pinion from the spares box. Other than that, there's a lot to like and it's very tidy indeed. Rear body mounts just needed spacing out using FF03 parts (SEE!) to get my Protoform race body fitting.
  15. Sorry just seen this now, theres a guy on the facebook tamiya legends page called steven mackenzie give him a shout he has restored alot of them and knows everything paint wise about them. Sean
  16. https://vikshobbiesmodels.com/product/tamiya-54003-nitrage-5-2-2-speed-transmission/
  17. I'd 100% go with the kit option and with the money saved from not getting the XB version, buy a Team CRP front suspension upgrade and then go have some fun with it!
  18. Packed and sent out the recently sold Super Champ yesterday. Back down to 12 cars which is good, pondering over another potential sale and purchase at the moment. I’m might move a wheelie along as I have 5, 2 which are waiting to be built and then replace it with the M05 chassis I would like to buy.
  19. Hi all, After either 7684011 or 7684139 Backplate gaskets for Tamiya nitro engines. Get in touch if you can help? Thanks
  20. That’s so kind, thank you! I’ll have a measure up this evening and let you know
  21. Are you after inner or outer ones??
  22. It was first buggy i owned back in 88 so sentimental reasons i supose,still have my old fox but it needs restored.
  23. ^^ thats quick isn't it! let us know if the turnigy one is any good.. will ned one for this Not sure what body to put on it - I have a Mk2 escort shell, but that might go on the TA03. Also not sure if to go brushless or stick with a 1060 and a 15T brushed motor. Brushless (to me..) inevitably means running lipo and although I have one know they're a bit of a pain.. deicsions decisions..
  24. JA Designs work is AMAZING!. I tried to find some old photos on RCTech, but they have disappeared. @Howards, this mans work cannot be believed until seen. Think the tiny sponsor logos on something like a Rough Rider or Super Champ, JA can cut that by hand with a scalpel and LM. He is truly a God.
  25. If you have a bottomless wallet you can just send them a sample and they can measure it from that. However, most cars use one of a few standard sizes, it looks most likely to be 0.8 module. You can work it out by measuring the diameter of the gear and counting the number of teeth. From this you can work out the pitch of the gears.
  26. I couldn't even find an image of some on Google lol. They must be super ultra rare for there not to be any pictures of them online. Your best option would be to have them fabricated I suppose.
  27. Kit all the way. Especially the Hornet, which is one of the easier kits available from Tamiya. There's nothing like the feeling of running a car that you 'built'.
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