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  2. Ok, I got this fixed so sharing it for anyone who buys wheels like this. The wheel adapters connect to the wheels with five little screws, which are not supplied with either the wheels or the adapter. I found the right size by by sifting through my box of spares. Turns out the little screws for attaching the power switch to the frame of my buggy were the right width, but 2mm too long. I ended up buying some FTX Cap Head Hex Screws 2x8mm from modelsport. Couple of quid a bag, needed two bags. They are the right length for the specific adapter I wanted to use, but some other adapter had other fitments, for example they needed little nuts as well. The screws I bought had a slightly larger hex fitting than the Alan key that fits Tamiya pinions, so I needed a set of Alan keys, too. My next jobs are to clean my hopper, start work on a new (shelf) shell and fit my new green pipe frame plastic bits. Thanks for everyone’s input. Projects start to feel great once the wheels are on, right?
  3. I have a favour to ask of you. Do any of you know if there are any 1:10 scale V8 Supercars and V8 Super Utes available anywhere? Ideally Falcons as i’m a Ford guy but would consider a dirty, filthy Holden if i had to When i say Super Ute i mean the proper 2 door Utes none of this 4 door diesel pick-up nonsense. Hopefully one of you can help me as i know there’s a few members on here from Down Under.
  4. Got my hands on a Ranger xlt body. now I got to track down the correct body mounts.
  5. I'm gonna have a punt with a bit of ally and if it fails I'll hit you up 😂 might have a go at making a couple of suspension towers 🤔 got a sheet of ally in the garage,
  6. It's somewhere in my post, think it's 14€ incl.shipment
  7. 😂 Didn't rearlise your selling them, how much posted too the UK?
  8. I could, but as I still have some for sale I only sharing the drawing not the files
  9. If you are new to it forget the hassle with lipo (and possible safety issues) I can recommend vapextech 3300 NIMH and SkyRC S60 or the Imax b6 charger
  10. That looks exactly like what I was thinking, don't suppose youve still got a copy of the cad file for them iv got access too a 3d printer 😁, Just had a look on ebay and can't see any, found them for the wr02 tho, but at 16 quid 😳 I think I may grab a bit of square ally and make it fit 😂, but iv just seen some shock extenders 😁 are they worth having
  11. Some modifications i did https://tamiyabase.com/forum/30-modern-tamiya-custom-builds/17679-58231-wild-dagger-wr-01-hop-up-modified
  12. Sounds like you have Yeah Racing 70mm shafts there.
  13. Today
  14. Welcome! Tamiya 53619 will get you oil damped shocks to replace the friction pogo sticks. You can get alloy servo mounts for the steering. Search alloy servo mount wt01 on ebay. After that, there is plenty you can do but you are off down the rabbit hole then!
  15. Terra conqueror ist same shell as the Blazing Star.
  16. F&R wheels are both with hex but the comical are different OD so doesn't make much sense on a 4WD. Fitting the bodies, you will have to cut parts of the chassis and bodies as the GF bodymount position is too wide on the rear (front not much better). Grasshopper way to small in the rear, hornet tight. I think I posted pictures in a similar thread.
  17. oooh so that's a dirt thrasher.... i've been told its basically a terra scorcher shell with a different wing. you're in luck, those shells are available via teambluegroove on ebay, and the stickers... mci racing. oh and welcome to the forum :-)
  18. Hi guys, recently I was at my folks house and pulled these 2 out of storage, I'm quickly realising everything has moved on alot since these too were last on the road 😂, went too my local model shop too see if I could get a couple of crystals for my old am radio gear and got laffed at 😁, my 3 yo has insisted I start off with getting the "monster truck" up and running fist, iv picked up a cheap and cheerful ikonnik steering wheel tx thing (never used a wheel in my life) but wanted too try it out before committing too something. Iv chucked in a quickrun 1080 and made up a couple of y leads for the duel motors and all seems OK so far. Ordered a new nimh battery as all my old nicads were dead, and now it turns out my old charger in dead as well 😁 so iv picked up a cheap one off amazon for the time being untill I decide if I'm going too upgrade too lipos (are they worth it?) I had it out the otherday and it seems a bit sluggish even with the new battery think I'm gonna strip and regrease the gear box, hopefully it's all good in there, can I still pick up new bearing and gears for this if needed? Next plans are new shocks, (any recommendations) and figure something out for the awful steering servo mount, never rearlised how much it flexed before. Then it's time too start on the dirt thrasher but that's a much bigger job, it's had a very hard life and looks very sorry for itself, can I still buy a new shell for it?
  19. I may be biased in my view, but I’ve been running Mugen for the last 8 years (Truggy, this is my first Mugen Buggy) and find them to be very high quality, the Truggy’s did have an issue with breaking front arms, bu on the latest model MBX8T that seems to have been rectified. I can highly recommend Mugen, but and also very impressed with the HB Racing buggies as well. I say go for it, a 1/8 buggy is like nothing else flying around a purpose built 1/8 track
  20. Yeah, just a blow torch. Didn't need it tbh, others have just pushed them on in a vice no problem. Just find stuff slides on easier when it's warm 😁 (And the 10t hydraulic press was overkill, but it was sat doing nothing so...🤷‍♂️)
  21. If it were me* I'd simply paint the inside some sort of metallic silver (to represent aluminium), then use a genuine Land Rover Marine blue paint (you can always get it mixed from a dealer if you can't find the colour you want in Halfords) on the outside, so that when you inevitable scratch the car, the blue paint starts to scrape off, revealing the 'aluminium' underneath? *Actually, personally speaking I'd never use a polycarbonate body in the first place, but a proper hard-body set instead... however, I appreciate that the kit comes with a poly body, and that with some paint and detailing they can look pretty realistic. Something to consider? Jenny x edit. following on from above, and also what Busdriver suggested, this is essentially what I did with the hard-body for my OK TC build - using 'aluminium' paint as a base layer before applying [grey] primer and top-coat, so that the weathering would reveal the original 'metal' underneath in places.
  22. You can also use the uprights and some stub axles from the M series too as I recall, I did this on my WR-02 chassis to fit four hex wheels. Jx
  23. I was looking for a way I might display the bonnet when it was removed from Hopper's HiLux (to reveal the detailed engine bay), and I found it... eating Eggos in a diner (with a pair of magnets): Jx
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