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  2. 3D printer are more and more frequent in the hobby apparently :-D On my side, finalising the files for the 44B Hilux bodyshell reproduction from my friend of Loisirs Creations RC here in France...
  3. Bumping this thread because I am excited about an upcoming trip to a new Mini 4wd racing venue in New Jersey, it's called Sidebite. I'm in the UK, but this is in fact my most accessible Mini 4wd experience, given that almost nothing happens over here, and that I don't speak Italian! Sidebite is brand new (opened in March) and very much modelled on DXN Provisions not he West coast: https://www.instagram.com/dxn_provisions/ Sidebite doesn't have an online shop yet, but seems pretty well stocked with kits and tune-up parts. I plan to go with my daughter, buy a kit, build on site and race in on their 5-lane wooden track! Will reports back when done. Very much looking forward to being in a room with fellow enthusiasts!
  4. Cracking. I look forward to pics. I'm keen to get into mine. I think at some point I'll also try to design for 3d printing some toed in rear uprights as a direct swap. I assume the stock ones are 0°? And maybe have a look at whether it's possible to introduce camber on the front.
  5. My loctite 243 is OK to break, although I have had the odd occasion where it's taken quite a lot of force to undo. I use it but I do think twice in spots where tool access isn't good. I suppose it's overkill for most RC applications really. Thinking about it, a weaker threadlock would be nice. Has anyone tried Loctite 222? I wonder how the tamiya stuff compares to the various loctites in strength.
  6. Today
  7. Started a 3D print for the TNX body this morning. I need to print 3 pieces. The computer said 13 hours print time for this piece, but the printer says 37 hours.
  8. Thanks @BuggyDad, I’d intended to just paint it red like a 1:1 I had but glad I didn’t in the end. MK1 Escort’s are one of my favourite cars.
  9. Very nice work on these changes. I had some doubts about the extra-wide suspension on the first build revision. It looks like you now have the best of performance, faithful design, and durability. I just wonder if the ride height needs to be slightly higher.
  10. ▪️Sensorless motors can be run in reverse by swapping the phase wires, but the timing also needs to be reversed (e.g. +15 to -15 degrees).Not quite correct. Sensorless motors can be run in reverse but they don't have any timing adjustment on the motor so its a simple plug swap to change direction. ▪️Sensored motors can't have their phases swapped, so can't be run in reverse like this; they have to be set as reverse running via ESC programming. Not all ESC's have this option, though, and I can't see how you tell which do, other than by reading their manuals. Broadly correct, you actually can run a sensored motor in reverse if you leave the sensor lead unplugged (IE sensorless) or if you swap the phases and re-pin the sensor lead, not really a suggestion for a beginner though. ▪️BL motors with fixed timing can still have their timing adjusted via the ESC...not sure about this one. Can the ESC adjust the timing of a reversed motor? What if the timing is fixed at non-zero? Sensorless brushless motor don't have a concept of fixed timing on the motor itself. An ESC can adjust timing on a reversed motor no problem. I have never seen an ESC with the timing fixed at not zero. ▪️Some ESC's dynamically adjust the timing, but is that just sensored ones? Do you only get that with non-budget ESC's? I've only seen even the option to _reverse_ the motor via programming on a FlySky 160A 150.00+ ESC... Correct as far as I'm aware, only high end sensored ESCs can adjust timing dynamically. If I was doing this mod I would probably buy something like 2x following. Aiming for waterproof and cheap. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-wp-10bl60-bl-esc-382833 https://www.banggood.com/Surpass-Hobby-3650-3100-or-3600-or-4500-or-5200kv-2S-or-3S-1-or-10-Waterproof-RC-Car-Motor-p-1446810.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=516951&rmmds=search
  11. Funny. Looks like they generally changed their mind here. Unfortunately, I did not see any indication of a document version in the manuals.
  12. If I recall correctly I got it off amazon.
  13. 3D printed a full scale version of @silvertriple Hunter protoype body in eSun ABS+ filament and run 5 vac forms with 1.5 mm ABS. They turned out well and this was little degradation of the 3D print. I think I could easily get 20 or more forms from it. Next step is white ABS and then try some polycarbonate
  14. @Paulus welcome aboard, looks like youve got a real nice classic there and a good start whatever you decide to do. Its a great hobby and dont hesitate to reach out to the many experienced folk here on this forum for help if you need. All the best Kurt
  15. I've got some Tamiya Big Bores, which I feel maybe wasted on this, and some Aeration dampers that I'll probably opt for. The lower damper mounts have just arrived from RCMart so I'll probably look at getting the dampers on this evening.
  16. ok, managed to do a second test, this time full scale and printed in eSun ABS+ a couple of errors, but overall not too bad. I had planned to clean it up a little, but ran out of time and thought just do it! So I ran 5 forms using 1.5 mm hair cell ABS, a little bit of trouble getting the mold out, I need better grip on the underneath, but otherwise no real dramas and the all formed really well. The 3D printed mold is starting to smooth a little, but otherwise I think I could have kept going for 20 or more forms with out too much trouble. I'll start cutting them out over the weekend and take some better pics.
  17. Strange. It is in printed version of TT-02, but in online .pdf I do not see it.
  18. It's semi-permanent, so it can be broken. Best to have a good set of drivers to avoid damage, though. Don't use automotive 'red' threadlock as this is way too strong for Tamiya screws. In my experience the Tamiya red and blue threadlocks are similar in strength and don't prevent you getting the screws out.
  19. Love that paint job. Def one of my favourites on TC. That's a great photo of a great car.
  20. @Pylon80 and others, who used carbon shock tower. To check dimensions before I install everything, I did some measurments. I compared stock shock tower, carbon and carbon Type S. As a reference point, I used holes on center, which are used to screw tower to diff cover. Then I marked shock holes. In stock part, I marked bottom one as in manual. I measured +/- position of arms and distance from center of chassis to shock mounts. Then I measured distance from shock mount on tower to point on arm. Stock: 50 mm Carbon S: 49 mm Carbon: 54 mm (!) Of course, measurments are not super precise but give general view. I am confused: it seems, that if I replace standard shock tower to carbon, chassis will be around 4 mm lower. Ekhm, why? I expected that there will be exactly the same position on both + some additional holes on carbon. It seems that it is not correct. Am I wrong?
  21. No, you do not need that. Does your manual tell you to mount that? What manual is that? The only manual I know that asks you to mount that part is a printed version of the TT-02D manual I have. All the manuals I find for download, including TT-02D, omit mounting that part. If you have universals, you can even dremel away the limiters on the front knuckles.
  22. Holy cow Kevin, not my favorite shell (although my dad had the tl01 Version bitd) but you make every car look cool perfectly. Oh and i always thought the distorted hasseröder logo was sth. They actually ran, like the marlboro Black stripes etc.... well And the chassis is a true BeautY anyway. I love the looks of it, maybe even more than the Look of a hopped up ta02 or ta03. I just cant get round the fwd in my head. Didnt know you dont like the flamingo dampers.. i used to think the same, but in the meantime i like them... The Top Deck with the writing is sooo nice always.if i ever get a top force, i got to have the cfk top Deck at least because of the white Letters. And the lowering of the c.o.g. of course
  23. Ooh good tip thanks @Mad Ax I hadnt seen that mentioned in the instructions. Is thread lock a permanent thing like modelling cement or is it easy enough to break the grip if parts need to be dismantled?
  24. Hello, Sorry for bringing up what must be an old chestnut, surely thrashed to death many times in the past - I can't find "the definitive answer", though...the benefit of your collective wisdom would be much appreciated. I want to change the motors in my WR01 to brushless. The WR01 is twin motor and one runs CCW whilst the other runs CW. If I told you what I've read on the matter so far, perhaps you could confirm/deny/explain the issues to me: ▪️Sensorless motors can be run in reverse by swapping the phase wires, but the timing also needs to be reversed (e.g. +15 to -15 degrees). ▪️Sensored motors can't have their phases swapped, so can't be run in reverse like this; they have to be set as reverse running via ESC programming. Not all ESC's have this option, though, and I can't see how you tell which do, other than by reading their manuals. ▪️BL motors with fixed timing can still have their timing adjusted via the ESC...not sure about this one. Can the ESC adjust the timing of a reversed motor? What if the timing is fixed at non-zero? ▪️Some ESC's dynamically adjust the timing, but is that just sensored ones? Do you only get that with non-budget ESC's? I've only seen even the option to _reverse_ the motor via programming on a FlySky 160A 150.00+ ESC... To paraphrase Mayor Quimby, "I choose to do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard..." Thanks for any advice 👍
  25. Thanks! I didn’t even know those plushy tips exist for a Dremel.
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