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  2. Very well put. The Top Force has a very pretty chassis, a distinctive shell and a look all its own, so if you want it to look at as well as use, then go for the Top Force. However if you are after a runner, the Manta Ray doesn't need much in the way of upgrading to keep up with a Top Force, so perhaps this would be a worthwhile route? If nothing else, new plastics are likely to be less brittle than 15 year old ones.
  3. Today
  4. Taken the DF03 for its maiden thrashing, nothing broke, couple of rubberside up moments, several cartwheels (that made me do that, shut eyes, look away, hunch shoulders move), but got 30mins out of 1 pack, around local carpark with speed bumps (aka jumps). Think this'll be a keeper.
  5. You beat me to it that's what I was going to ask 😁
  6. For sale is this beauty. without electronics 200€, with 250€. pictures will be added later on.
  7. The pounder has a cool looking chassis but that’s about it. I fancied the mtx and the cen but they don’t really exist in the uk so I just went with readily available Tamiya and saved a fortune by making my own chassis. Didn’t fancy an import charge on a us chassis. I was really expecting the SMT to be a better rig but you basically upgrade everything except the chassis plates and then it’s more expense to repair if you do break(or bend) the metal upgraded parts. The clods a funny one with the reverse motor which goes in the SMT10s favour as well. Hopefully the updated SMT10 will be a lot better but like you I’m not optimistic. Axial need to design axles for the purpose of giant wheels. They could do it easily. The other one I’d really like to try would be a kyosho mad/twin force/crusher fo-xx or whatever-it’s-called-this-week based truck. I’d try that over an smt10 every day.
  8. See how I skilfully manage to keep the primer out of the corners whilst build up enough to run down the lower right side of the door... Ive added some RP wheel arches, this is a dummy run on the monster beetle before i attempt a sand scorcher custom.. the primer really is good at exposing all your flaws...
  9. That blue looks bonkers! What would be the difference between a translucent colour backed with silver or metallic silver, and just a metallic colour straight on the shell, maybe backed with white? My Novafox as box art should be ps4, but I am thinking of going metallic blue instead just to make it a little more sparkly, but the translucent idea also looks really good!
  10. Very interested in this... Will open my Novafox box and measure, just to compare
  11. Ah okay, thank you. I'm torn as to which wheels to get. I will always keep the kit wheels for display but prefer to go with something more robust when running as I'm going to add a good amount of juice to the car. I started out by wanting to go w/ the Dark Impact wheels but sourcing them are difficult/near impossible right now. That led me to look at the contemporary wheels/tires (which led me to this question). My issue is that I don't want to have to source new wheels each time I need to replace worn tires as I glue them on. If I went with contemporary wheels, that will not be a problem. Currently, neither the dark impact wheels or the egress wheels are easy to find.
  12. I had an email from Fusion Hobbies in the UK updating me on an order I’d placed in May. They said delivery from their distributor would be delayed again, because, and I quote “the Super Hotshots have been put back by Tamiya Japan to the 4th August, due to only having 60% of staff left at their depot in Malaysia because of Coronavirus.”
  13. Today I had a first stab at an ABS body with grey primer. Conclusion:- I suck at using spray cans... I’ve not filled the fine details which is a bonus.. but overdid the side panels trying to get into the corners of the wings and the side tread (beetle body) so... there will be some wet’n’dry required... Next time I might see if I can get the same primer to use in an air brush, the narrower spray pattern and lower flow rate might help getting into corners.. might put a picture up later so I can be mocked...
  14. Almost finished removing paint from this old bodyshell
  15. Nothing particularly exciting, but some kits are getting re-released. It might be more correct to call it "another production run", considering that most haven't been discontinued for so long and are returning with their original item numbers. They have all been discontinued though, so technically, I guess they are re-releases. In addition to the Novafox and the 58578 Capri, which is just out: 47326 TT-02R Chassis Kit 47372 Subaru Impreza WRC Mexico 04 (TT-01E announced, but some sources indicate it will be on the TT-02 instead of the original release's TT-01E. I think it's unlikely, but I'm not certain) 47429 Porsche 911 GT3 Cup 2008 (TT-01E) 58591 Renault Alpine A110 Monte-Carlo '71 (M06S) Stretching the re-release definition a bit further, I guess the Super (Storm) Dragon can be considered a re-release too: 47438 Off-Road Racer Super Storm Dragon (Hornet Chassis)
  16. I've never broken mine on 14.4v twin 550 power or 8.4v twin 15T 540 power aside from stripping a few rod ends. My main issue has been wear in axle gears. Others have broken the stat shaft in the diff at times too. They do have some weight behind them so I can see them being more breakage prone over a Clod based truck particularly in the areas you mentioned. I could see them in the Sport Mod class if they'd taken off and Tamiya kept parts supply flowing. A Juggernaut is practically made for the Outlaw Retro class. I want to like the SMT10. I'm glad they reintroduced an improved version along with a kit, but like you said, they are a money pit. Even with the kit, by the time you add beef tubes, better gears, shafts, hubs, etc, plus fix the wheelbase, plus buy wheels and tires, plus a body, plus electronics, the bill get pretty big. There's a bunch of other shaft trucks that don't seem to get recognition too. CEN has the HL150. MST has the MTX-1. I think HPI still makes the Wheelie King, which was once pretty popular. Probably the less said about the Redcat Ground Pounder, the better.
  17. As i'm from germany I can give you first hand details In the video he said, the carbon fiber is a normal carbon decal cutted out from a big roll. The mesh is the same as used on car parts for optical tuning. Mostly out of Aluminium.
  18. I believe the hex from the mad bull wheels fit the splines but that causes other issues which I have forgotten exactly but either the axles were too short or too fat/thin to accept the bigger wheels. But I also believe that this is the same gearbox as the monster series use so it should handle the bigger wheels, it's just finding some that will fit.
  19. 4wd front wheels are usually narrower than rears. 2wd fronts usually have bearings in them, whereas 4wd fronts are bolted to a hub. If you want to go hex hubs on a hotshot, can I suggest a set of Egress / vanquish wheels. They are sort of period correct for the car and your existing hotshot tires will fit on them.
  20. Need a pro tip, please. I'm looking to replace my hotshot re-re w/ hex wheels and in doing so, realized there's a huge sub category of wheels. Take Amain for example, one of my go to online shops (US). They have the following sub categories under buggy: 2wd front, 4wd front and rear. I understand that a 4wd car's front is different and usually thicker than 2wd. But what's the difference between a 4wd front and a rear wheel? I find some info that 4wd front are 27mm but can't find credible information for others. Is a 4wd front the same as a rear? When looking at the actual tires (as opposed to wheel specs), there seems to be differences in width for 4wd front from one to another. Anyone want to give me a lesson? Thanks!
  21. Hiya! Halfway through my 2CV Rally build at the mo. Currently standard appart from a Sport Tuned motor and bearings. I've built it with the higher ground clearance settings, as I plan to use it on gravel. Just wondering about the benefits of tyre foams and oil filled shocks on this chassis? I have a TT02b and a Lunchie, both of which have benefitted immensely from some simple upgrades, foams and posh shocks yeilding the biggest improvements. Completely new to the M chassis so all advice welcome. Any other tips for this lovely little build much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Stay safe, Pete.
  22. Other than the rumour of the Novafox being rere’d again in September, do we know what other releases Tamiya had scheduled or rumoured for 2020? I’m don’t know what restrictions were in place where Tamiya kits are manufactured, but it’s safe to assume production will have been halted for a good while With lockdown measures being ease in certain countries, I’m wondering if we'll start to see some more information coming through on rere kits?
  23. It is very easy to get obsessed and spends a lot of cash on any model. I would keep it simple and add bearings and alloy body posts- enjoy it and then develop it as you go a long, that way you know what you have, what you are working with and you will have a true measure of the improvements that you have made. There is a really good YouTube video by 1 of the TC'ers with cheap or free mods by Shenco well worth watching- I've had 9 LB's now and my daughters is pretty well specced with bearings, lights, torque tuned motor, alloy body posts, CVA's, 5th shock mod, uprated wheelie bar, etc, etc- does she care no she just likes it- the mods were all about me. I am just about to build a NIB which will start out almost bog standard and then over the next few years it will get run and run and slowly developed.
  24. It is a good item , and as I said before , it's easier to fit than to scratch building or sourcing a 5th shock and installing it . I also built sets of F&R stabilizers for the LB's and I think that helps all round to back up the AmPro / 5th shock as I haven't rolled at speed in corners for a long time if ever even with a 15T , I have 'bicycled' however but that's due to tyre dig in or divot more than anything . I also fitted all the chassis tub braces and that helps tighten the whole thing up and makes it more responsive
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