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  1. Past hour
  2. RichieRich
    Yeah. Well, it looks like this chassis may be too long but, it still could be the foundation for a new Lazer 4wd buggy. Maybe add a carbon fiber top deck, some long arms, big bore aluminum shocks, a buggy body and buggy tires. I'm sure I'm way over simplifying but why not? No one makes one-off products. It's all about making a chassis and see how many iterations you can come up with during a marketing meeting.
  3. alvinlwh
    I have a Thunder Dragon and it's mono shock works well, after setting it up correctly. A HS was on my shortlist last year but I went with the TD instead. I should not need a battery protector since I use hard case batteries. What is a tree? 😁 http://www.orkneyjar.com/orkney/orkland.htm#:~:text=While Orkney is now largely,continued until the early Neolithic. This will be a light runner given that it is a "special" edition, I will want to preserve its looks, metal arms should be ok, and fits in with the metal look "special" parts. I will also have the metal reinforcing bridge for the front gearbox. The ones I am looking at do away with the silly fiddly metal plates pivot points. In any case, those will have to wait as if I am to go all the way with metal upper and lower plus hubs (I believe I can reuse these gray ones in my TA-02) for color coordination, it will cost over USD70, probably the same in GBP after tax and postage is thrown in. A side note is I think color coordinated arms and hubs on this is more worthwhile than say a M/TC as they are visible and actually adds to the look of the vehicle.
  4. Today
  5. smirk-racing
    Can you explain more about what you have in mind?
  6. Kowalski86
    That should be the stock kit! Nice work livening it up a bit. I meant to share this over the weekend (but error -200), I met up with a Tamiya fan with a few nice TT-02s and an original Hotshot that saw quite a few races back in the day.
  7. Kowalski86
    This weekend I had the chance to look at a Hotshot up close, the mono-shocks work better than you'd expect. Note the battery protector too, it might be worth making your own up. I wouldn't use metal arms on a runner, if your RC smacks a tree it's better to break an arm than break the chassis. If anything, this is a case where it would be really nice if there was a better plastic alternative.
  8. RichieRich
    Maybe this could be turned into a new Lazer?
  9. Kowalski86
    I've been eyeing the Dirtmaster on and off, just to have a more sturdy "old school" dirt buggy to drive about. Something akin to an old RC10 but with parts availability. This release makes me think of the Traxxas Raptor "Ultra Scale Edition", but I like the execution here much better. You get an aluminum chassis, Deans battery plugs (like the Fazer line up), a velcro battery strap (why Traxxas won't use velcro is beyond me), but more importantly the wheel wells look big enough to avoid body rubbing. I've seen an "Ultra Scale Raptor" up close, there is a good bit of tire rub on near full compression, and unlike an MB-01 I can't simply swap another body onto it (oh and it costs significantly more). My only gripe with both of these trucks, are the clip less body systems/non standard dimensions that limit what aftermarket body shells will fit.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Pizza Frog
    I'll see if that works (I have a blitzer beetle) I'm hoping that the front body mount only needs to be raised up on a long stalk or tube. I'm going to prime the entire chassis and gearbox with red oxide primer and then a thin coat of flat silver to give it an oxidized metal look.
  12. Kai City RC
    Exactly! Snapshot_rccars on Instagram posted this from the manual, so I guess that's all the info we have. I don't have an air brush (or the skill necessary to get good results with one) so my best effort would be to try combining cans of Tamiya PS paint in the hopes of getting a match. I estimated my chances of a successful result to be slim to none! 😅
  13. Wooders28 started following Steel driveshafts durability
  14. Wooders28
    Which driveshafts did you get? I've 4 different ones! 2 from 3racing, and 2 from yeah racing. If I remember right, the 2 outer are 3racing (normal, and heavy duty) middle is yeah racing. The other I have (in my DFO3 atm, but same shafts), is the spring steel yeah racing. I quite like the 3racing diff joint on the DT03 though, seem a bit harder wearing, didn't think they where that expensive, at around £20 for the diff joints and drive shafts. They do wear though, same shafts on my DF03..
  15. rich_f
    Yes they do wear. When they get really bad you can just punch them out and replace them with a new pin.
  16. Pylon80
    This is how I would do it. I would take care to round off the edge of the diffuser to avoid stress risers that could still cause the T-bar to break.
  17. Raman36
    Very cool! I bought and outlaw rampage for my son, which is pretty awesome, but would have preferred it to be 4WD. This looks like it would be the ticket!
  18. Willy iine
    I posted on Instagram just now the successful fitment of Tamiya’s Mini Cooper body on the MB01 with FWD setup. The front tires barely rub at full lock as the track width of the MB01 is quite wide.. but even at that ride height it is still drive-able so it is acceptable for me. I found that the MB01 in FWD rotates well.. begs for ball diffs. I’m running the factory friction dampers too.. just ball bearings as hop up. I will need to mount Billy on the gearbox in order to fit as the steering linkage is quite tall.. I also show the 2 areas I chopped off the steering to gain a few more degrees in turnability.. #pretendRCshop
  19. alvinlwh
    Not according to this.
  20. alvinlwh
    Having kids is absolutely no reason to give up my hobbies, well, for me at least. Because I am normally a late sleeper, I will take the "night shift" where my wife will go to sleep at 8 or 9pm and I will watch over the baby right up to 2am after their night feed (bottle). So that is a few normally quiet hours for me where I am free to do my hobbies. Now they are 7 and 4, it is easier. Today, my wife is working evening shift on her second job so after dinner and bedtime at around 8pm, I got onto my build. My latest post in my HS2 build was done between them going to sleep and wife coming home at 10pm. As for space... I am building a new shed to make space.
  21. wintersdawn
    Found these for the front: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/299473/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw06-oBhC6ARIsAGuzdw2U5RLj24kPVm1rYqjUUPR0MgHLZCcBjuqyUJJBdhNhX7gFgtbfBCcaAptQEALw_wcB
  22. Mrowka
    I hope so, too, for her sake.. And thank you for the kind wishes.
  23. Raman36
    The body that comes with this is a Tomahawk. Is that what he used?
  24. Raman36
    I like the continuation of re-releases, even though this one is not for me. I do wish Kyosho would do something about the optima steering upright, to spruce things up. It’s pot metal looking and cheap
  25. TurnipJF
    You could fit the F104 gearcase front, back and sides to the F103GT easily enough - the screw hole positions are a match - but the F103GT T-bar is integral with the motor pod floor, taking the place of the F104 moulded plastic diffuser piece which also formed the motor pod floor. This is a good thing from a structural perspective, as the point at which the F104 T-bar attached to the diffuser/floor piece was a common point of failure. I once saw a chap break 3 in a single race meet. Tamiya seem to have learned from this, as the F104 Pro II has ditched the plastic diffuser and gone back to having the T-bar integral with the motor pod floor. I have yet to see one of these break. If you want a F104 diffuser on your F103GT, you might consider cutting it free of the motor pod floor piece, and fabricating a bracket to attach it via the screw holes on the back of the gearcase which are used for mounting a wing on an F103, but remain unused on an F103GT? You may also consider sandwiching the diffuser piece between the gearcase and T-bar. This would lower your rear ground clearance by the thickness of the diffuser piece, but you could compensate by lowering the axle in the height adjustable gearcase by the same amount?
  26. smirk-racing
    Hi All, hope you won't mind a Kyosho rig over here but this is my forum of choice and I like you all, so we'll see if there are many Kyosho fans around (Optima Mid certainly does well enough ;). https://www.bigsquidrc.com/kyosho-1-10-toyota-tacoma-trd-pro-readyset/ New platform from Kyosho which I hadn't quite noticed last year because of the atrocious body on the 'mad wagon' (IMO) and the naming (thought it was just a small iteration on the mad van). Turns out this is a pretty new concept - 10th scale flat chassis, with a giant vertical brace down the middle, and a center diff. Might be an interesting new addition to the scene. Curious to hear your thoughts. I think this new truck looks great and ought to be a fun driver.
  27. Pylon80
    Lots of detail and part numbers 👍 That's a gold mine for me, as this will be my next build. I want to keep mine purposely barebones, for the 1990's feel, but at the same time I do have the RM-01 sprue with the friction dampers and your idea of fitting side dampers is intriguing. Regarding the paint I do not like PS-12 which has these giant, closer to 1:1 scale, metallic flakes of silver in it. The last body I painted was a 911 RSR and I too swapped the PS-12 for PS-63. Darker yes, but more realistic. Yours looks great.
  28. barneys66
    Ha, thanks, I am tempted by some bubble windows, but originals are a fortune nowadays and I'm just not sure I could handle the stress of cutting into that original body.. Ooh, that's my reading sorted for tonight
  29. mtbkym01
    Yeah so true, The acrylics that airbrush painters use will work, but what brand and shade exactly? And….if you don't have an airbrush then what?
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