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  2. 1. Failure of the plastic mount is inevitable even on a silver can. Best bite the bullet and get a metal one. You can get them on their own - no need to go for the half-redundant upgrade kit. 2. The hot screw method is good, as is drilling out the first millimeter of the screw hole to 3mm, thus ensuring that the screw only starts stressing the plastic after it has been inserted 1mm into the hole. The 1mm of unstressed plastic around the edge of the hole helps prevent, or at least delay cracking of the part.
  3. yes they do, I have them in a wt -01 truck for more then 2 years, and with the 25 tooth pinion you get noticeable more top speed. the stock fdr with the 20 tooth pinion = 16:5, with the 25 tooth pinion and high speed gear about 10.5 fdr. The gears are good quality, I bashed the car hard for 2 years with a hobbywing 3800kv brushless motor and the gears are still fine.
  4. no today, but yesterday, we moved house. That was painful! 18 yrs of accumulated stuff from a family of 4. And in 10 months we get to move back to where we came from, albeit into a new house. Our old house was pretty tiny for 4 people, so even this rental we are in will be better set up so I'll have an area where I can make/do RC building and not have to worry so much about having to tidy it up.
  5. Question for the speed experts. This is my speed demon car, not looking to do 100+ with it.. so keeping very scale. So I figured what better body than a 911 GT2! Tyres / Wheels have been an issue. Original tyre and rims used with this body can’t handle the speed over 30 mph. So I switched to Sorex 36R which are good up to 60 so far. Issue is the rear wheel width. Sorex only makes 24mm tyres and 24mm rims at best come with +3 mm offset. I need around 6 mm - 9 mm. Seems they don’t exist in 24mm. anyone of you know a good source?
  6. Both good points, that offset each other nicely in my experience. I reduced the speed on my nephew's first hobby grade RC with an 80t motor, and was open with him about it, saying "This is your training motor, do X without crashing and you'll earn an upgrade". (In our context, X was 5 consecutive laps of the local track.) He progressed from 80 to 35 to 27 turn motors in this manner, as well as earning other chassis and suspension upgrades, and eventually a new car. Having a target to aim for kept him motivated to improve while ensuring that he realised that any temporary frustration he felt at being slower than the rest of the field could be alleviated through practice.
  7. Think I've decided on a TA02 chassis then get a custom lower deck made. Plenty of hopups for that chassis too
  8. I wouldn't expect them to undervalue the order, and to be honest I'd rather have the insurance for the correct value. But if the orders big enough, could potentially make a small saving on each shell, never know till we ask. Will definitely save by splitting shipping, import duty and RM handling fees vs individual orders though
  9. I'm pulling a box of DF01 parts back into service for "basher" purposes. I'm going to drag this beater everywhere like my work, rain or shine, etc. Upon tear down, I've noted the legs on the motor mount are cracking (expected) and the 4 screw holes in the lower front gearbox that the lower gearbox/front lower arm mount attaches to are fractured. The plan is to spend as little as possible getting it up and running (reliably) Questions as follows: 1. I have a new-on-sprue plastic motor mount available. Are these doomed to fail regardless of the power level? The plan is to run anything from a silvercan to a Sport Tuned, but nothing more powerful. Should I just get the metal mount and be done with it? It already has an upgraded prop shaft making the full Tamiya upgrade kit half redundant. 2. Any ideas on preventing the gearbox from fracturing again? Admittedly, it was built long before I started assembling using the "hot screw method" which, so far, has cut down on typical fractures around ABS screw bosses and such. Maybe this would be enough. Another idea would be to tap the holes and run machine screws instead of tapping screws. Thanks.
  10. Good idea but sadly for me a day too late It might be worth setting something up though. You might save on shipping fees but as TBG state on their website they will not undevalue or declare as a gift so the duty will always be a % of the overall total. Having said that duty I beleive is also calculated on shipping so if you got free shipping you would save a little.
  11. I think if you want it that low/slammed, then yes, the easiest way is probably some sort of touring car chassis, and then chop the body shell/arches to fit the wheelbase as required - as WillyChang suggests. However, you could easily consider the older TL-01 chassis (pretty much fixed at 257mm wheelbase without some work) or even the MF-01X chassis and add a bunch of spacers to adjust the wheelbase closer to the original shell - that way you'd have a reasonably narrow track width to tuck the wheels under the arches, and the ability to adjust the overall ride height by simply using a mix of different shocks and body mount posts? Sounds like a fun project! Jenny x
  12. Theres been some absolute bargains on here of late - its good to see it among forum members.
  13. Ok thanks I need funds and space... my rc car collection is really getting out of hand and the egress pains me. I took great pleasure building it but then never ran it for fear of hurting it and everytime I convinced myself of running it and finally having fun I just couldn t do it. I have an avante 2001 that is a runner so the egress has to go to make room. No electrics so I ll price it on now spectrum.
  14. Today
  15. I guess all to one menber which is quiet happy now, right? Fair offer man, appreciate it.
  16. Hi All, I've been slowly amassing all the parts to built from NOS or from used the kits I couldn't afford as a kid, however like many have hit a roadblock with body shells and stickers. Would any UK members be interested in a group purchase from the above 2 companies, splitting the handling and customs charges, and where applicable the shipping fees accordingly (mci free shipping above $50)?
  17. I have the same square gears waiting for my konghead build. Do they make a noticeable difference in your experience @dannymulder ?
  18. If it's all their ready to run you should €350-400 (i noticed your in france) don't short change ya self its worth every penny if just kit €280 no less, it's a shame you have to sell it!
  19. Here we go! Cut out the truck body, real difference between a £15 Ebay body and Tamiya body. Got there in the end though its quite flimsy These are all the bits and pieces!! Page 1: Tamiya speed gear set (not spur) YR cups and propshaft Page 2: Front diff with putty, quite tight. Rear diff AW grease Page 4 : 10.5T Blue sensored brushless, 96t spur and 45t pinion, YR adjustable mount. Think thats enough for day one.
  20. Hi all I m forced to sell my egress re re (2013) new built never run. What price is reasonable To ask for it ? Cheers Les
  21. Loved @juleo68 415msx build thread on here and wondered if it might be beaten by a 420 conversion ?
  22. So much better than the alternative And pretty much an essential hop up for any racing kit 96+ Including the 30th Anniversary 934 - which may be driving prices ? Does anyone know what happened to the Tamiya Expec v1 that bundled it ? Not seen one for ages
  23. Agree with @Hibernaculum And would add that if you’re a successful 40 / 50 something who wants (and can afford) regular vintage kit you’ve probably worked out how to swerve (or at least mitigate) economic or political idiocy ...
  24. Start to change my konghead from a crawler truck in to a basher truck, today I changed some of the gears for square high speed gears, I use them in my wt-01 for 2 years now. I am going to put in a castle 1410 3800 kv sct motor that I have in a box here with a 25 tooth pinion to give it some speed.
  25. I love my 302 aswell but it cost about 60 euros when I Got it 5 years ago and with no lipo cutoff .... I just buy 1060 now. I do love it being tamiya though and it looks beautiful !
  26. Rarity is fine but it doesn’t always drive cost or the affordability of running vintage kit The Sand Rover gear is a good one I do like @WillyChang cases if you run your SR regularly - but, if you do, it’s silly to think they won’t prompt flaws elsewhere - likely by over stressing the rear axle with rigidity that was never intended ... And, let’s be honest, the odds of (even open) plastic drive gear outliving those front suspension tops are pretty low in the first place 🙄 Having run a boxed built 70s / 80s garage biannually for the last 4 years, the truth is you can’t win gents Shelfers wither if not carefully maintained and daily runners suffer from archaic design - so the best you can do is to shoot the gap, and run your best occasionally So, for me, @Hibernaculum is spot on re keeping kits stock and just investing in period spares for runners with well known weak spots Whether you also buy NOS spares for NIB kits you’ve yet to build is a diff question ?
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