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  2. Yeah free enterprise =low pay zero hour the Amazon world of work! Havn't we learned anything in this rubbish we are in at the moment who are the important people in our society? Is it free enterprise Richard Branson's(who tried to sue the NHS because he lost out on a contract) Mike Ashley's, and that idiot that owns Wetherspoon's (who told his workforce to go and get a job in Tesco's) of this world? or the real people who are working and have been for weeks all through the lockdown???? I know who I have respect for and it isn't free enterprise! Sorry for the rant I've got a good friend (postman) who is seriously ill with this horrible virus (intensive care) and I can tell you his family are forever grateful that he was in his union because they have come up trump's with the care and support that he and they need and deserve! So "militant" probably not maybe back in the 70s? Unionised yes! And the problem with that is???
  3. I don't actually know what the max is because I just set mine for track conditions, usually around the 2 - 2.5cm mark but there is always room to go higher. I would guess at least 3cm on mine? But then mine are for dirt, so have specific shock towers, shock bodies, arms etc for lower grip dirt tracks. There is quite a big difference between the front and rear ends on the B6D vs the B6 carpet version, mine is a B6D that I bought secondhand and it had been converted to carpet, so I have all the options of arms, gearboxes, shock towers etc and it was a complete strip and rebuild to switch them over.
  4. Get the DB01 or DB01RRR (if you could find one), as both can bash with covered gear/belts. The chassis are reinforced plastic but you can use TRF501X/502X/503 and 511 parts like A-arms, uprights, hubs, belts, Gear diffs, alloy hop ups etc. I have a 501X and never get worried about parts because the DB01 has so many parts available. Here is my old 501X (Raced at prepped tracks only)
  5. Got two tucked away in a commode drawer...🤫
  6. I read somewhere that the model code is a sign to how long it will continue... The 58****** cars seem to stick around, whereas the 47***** rere don't... Probably more complex than that, but seemed to hold true in the cars I know of in my head!
  7. This. This is what I deal with on a daily basis. I can't get my head around it. Some folks I interact with feel this whole thing is cooked up by the democrats to hurt Trump. How?! The whole world is in on this? Every country entered into a secret pact with inflated death counts and overblown concerns over this virus simply as a ploy to bring down our president? If the president is so powerful and all-knowing how could he not stop this diabolical plan against him? None of the logic adds up. The news they refer runs counter to every known news outlet. Sorry for venting. I keep my mouth shut around these people. I'd never try to change anyone's mind. Their opinion is theirs but the mental gymnastics they make are unfathomable to me.
  8. Agree with most of what you say, but not sure (but have little direct evidence) about the modern buggies. I was speaking to the Schumacher guys and they said the cars could do 2-2.5cm clearance. That isn't a lot, and way less tha older cars can do (even df03 I think is closer to 3.5cm?). As I said I may be wrong (or it may vary a lot between models), but worth checking for anyone reading this and thinking of a modern car
  9. Today
  10. Sorry To Hijack Dc-Arena. Would anyone be able to point me towards the bullet connectors themselves (male and female with covers) to make an extension lead. I'm also in the XV-01 cable not long enough camp and am still swapping esc about so don't want to chop up my Tamiya one just yet. Many Thanks Chris
  11. Jerks, I would call and raise badword. I notice screwups are rarely ever in reverse. Why couldn’t they have accidentally shipped a Bruiser?
  12. I think I've killed my TBLE02S. Hooked up to a TBLM 10.5T motor, I noticed the forward on the transmitter made the car go in reverse. Oh, I think, I'll just swap one of the motor wires over and try again. There was no magic puff of smoke but by God it did give off an awful smell. Now it glitches, a red light flashes and it won't go. Have I killed it? I'm an electronics murderer aren't I?
  13. I did also buy new glass, so that’s now fitted. Chuffed with these wheels. Really should have bought the shell ordered front wheels from New Zealand, in the same style slightly battered packet. I swear they were the last in the world!
  14. Wolf dog, I joined this forum specifically because of you, I am not at all happy with you. You have made me spend an awful lot of money on my old Childhood Thunderdragon!!!!! jokes aside, ordered a brushless setup, and as it is massively sentimental to me, went and ordered original nos wheels and tyres (going to be too scared to run them what they cost) it’s a semi restoration, semi modification. i would really love a new shell, missed one on eBay the other week as it was hideous money, now we are so far into lockdown I am regretting it (would have been £80 to the door, and I just spent £50 on wheels) I know it’s ridiculous, but like I say, sentimental and I think it’s kind of cool to revive a childhood toy after 30 years and have more fun
  15. Simple for me- 1. Run the Konghead a few times to text my old batteries. 2. Pack and send my Toyota to br refurb.
  16. In theory it could do the same for a TL-01B monster truck too, right? I love this silly old truck, it started as an HBX Bonzer but it's more Tamiya than HBX parts now. Anyway, it drives great with the big old stock 560 motor but when you put something a bit faster in, the handling gets very nervous and squirrelly. I've heard this is much the same with the regular version of the chassis and is partly caused by the lack of any caster or kickup at the front. I've been getting quite frustrated by the problem because although not a masterpiece, it's a 4WD truck with independent suspension all round and I feel it should be a little better than it is. With a brushless motor I just find it's very inclined to dart off to one side from the slightest steering input and while this might only cause a spinout in the touring car version, it often results in a traction roll with a bigger MT version with more rubber on the ground and suspension setup for off road running. I like how this truck handles with stock power a lot, it is pretty good on-road perhaps due in part to it's on-road origins and it's not too shabby off road either, it's a pretty good all rounder until you go over a certain amount of power and then it suddenly does the jekyll/hyde thing and becomes hard to control, especially on-road. If I could increase it's threshold for power slightly it would be awesme. My Lunchbox is less nervous and tracks straighter with the same kind of power (it has front kickup) and even my Nikko Hawg type trucks are less fidgety and have more straight line stability (impressively, I discovered the hub carriers on these have caster, kudos Nikko!) so I would really like to get this truck that is theoretically superior into the same ballpark for composure. So I decided to grab some TG10 hub carriers to see if it has a positive impact. I'm also getting some rear hub carriers with toe-in as I hear this helps the stability of the TC version a lot too. Has anyone else tried this? I'm thinking maybe it might work on the WR-01 too? That chassis suffers the same basic flaw because it has no caster and unlike the WT-01, there's no kickup. Could adding TG10 hub carriers help the likes of the Wild Dagger be a bit more stable too?
  17. Quick question, do I need to remove the grub screws holding the rear upper arm when I install the steering links? Thanks.
  18. I can't imagine that they will re-release anything else this year given the way things are, probably just prepare up for next year now
  19. Let me check tomorrow - I'm pretty sure I have those parts. Are you in the UK?
  20. I havent photo`d each stage but she`s up to rolling stage. I`ll sort a thread with photos of where she`s at tomorrow.
  21. Very cool. Agree these should be a standalone hop-up or at least easy to obtain the parts-trees. I'd be concerned with the TL-01 though, the weak spot is the damper tower tops, prone to splitting when the suspension travel max's out before the chassis bottoms out. That's definitely going to happen here! I'm worried for your damper towers! At least on the MF-01X the damper towers are separate from the main chassis.
  22. Well.... of the 20 cars I have..... I only have 2 runners monster beetle and neo scorcher so it has to be the neo (although it’s not really a neo -‘its a TT02b MS with a neo shell on) JJ
  23. I love the escort shell. My first car was a MK1 Escort estate 2 door.
  24. As usual lots of unrelated bits - paints not for the kits shown, body not for that chassis and wheels not for that body! A new respirator (not easy to get hold of at the moment, the place I got this from didn't have all the parts so I'm awaiting some filter holders from eBay), brakes from eBay, Paint from Scalemodelshop (first order, impressive service), the correct paint and mixing jars order from Redline who sent me the wrong bits the other week, and did an excellent job of rectifying things with a prepaid return - top marks! The rest from Tamico. I'm not a huge buggy fan but the Terra Scorcher was the car my mate had as a kid when I had my King Cab, so there's strong nostalgia there. He got a replacement body and painted it black and pink. I won't be doing that. As a big TT-02 fan I had to get the latest SR. I'll transfer all the Hop-ups from my "Type-RS" Type-R/Type-S hybrid to create an "RSR". The body is an Impreza 2004. The CC-01 wheels I bought purely as they have plated versions of the centres for the 911 GT2 BBS wheels. I can make use of the wheel barrels too, and will sell the tyres on.
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