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  2. Just ordered my first kit, Lancia delta XV 01. The build should go ok, built and flown RC heli`s before. I would like some tips on the sticker application, this can make the body look real good if done well. Cutting out solid shapes will be easy, cut right upto the print with no clear left. What do you do around "letters" for instance? Say if it has capital letter then lower case. Do take the time to cut around each letter OR leave some clear around the top and bottom of the print. Hope that make sense?
  3. I've never had to repair a new unpainted shell before, only used shells. The best solution I've found is flushing tape (blue mesh stuff on a roll that plasterers use) and brand name Shoe Goo. Has plenty of strength and plenty of flex. Lexan off-cuts and/or other brand shoe adhesive is too hard and brittle. Tip - If you know where your shell will split, tape and glue it in those areas before it does.
  4. Ahh those 36mm screws, I ended up buying 40mm and cutting it down!
  5. The brass sleeves are to prevent the arms bending... I've got plenty of spare gearbox parts if they do end up failing in that direction but with metal supports I think it will be ok. I picked up an almost rolling chassis to use as spares tat just arrived but realised that with it and the parts I have I could build another full car. After an ebay spree to get the parts to build new shocks and some other odds and ends all I'm missing that I can't find anywhere are a bumper (which seem hard to find, I'll keep an eye on ebay) and the infamous 3x36mm screw (2000053). Any way to get one of those? Is this the right one? B&W picture, no end on so hard to tell if it is posi or not. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-3x36mm-screw-58492/none/ Oh and someone has Thunder Shot B parts on ebay right now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-0005301-10005301-ORIGINAL-Thunder-Shot-Thunder-Dragon-B-Parts-NEW-NIP/223715249651?hash=item341677cdf3:g:ddEAAOSwDG1dpcdj @ThunderDragonCy I'm sure I'll be pinging you when I've had a bit more time to Look at the suspension/handling, thanks!
  6. Today
  7. From what i see on facebook groups the vanquish is having a bit of a glory period. Everyone seems to want one and lots are being restored. Prices are going up too. A vanquish rere would be a big seller imo.
  8. So far looks like your on your own with this one. Sorry mate. Nerf blasters are adding up in my house.
  9. If it's a runner and you place more importance on longevity than shelf appeal, drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it spreading. I just use clear packing tape on both sides of my running shells. When it gets ratty, remove clean and apply new tape.
  10. I think all of them are nylon, the parts tree will tell you; "PA" for nylon, "PA-GF" for nylon with glass fibre, "PA-CF" for nylon with carbon fibre. My experience with glass reinforced nylon is that the wear resistance is excellent - the grease or oil doesn't get polluted with dust over time like the cast aluminium gears do. However, since any plastic gear can still bend, if they get put under too high of a load the two gears can be forced apart and skip a tooth, and then small pieces of the teeth can break off.
  11. I’ve never built any of these cars before. I have an XV-01 on the table as well as an M-08. I noticed one big difference in the gear differentials. The XV-01TC Pro‘s gear diff uses carbon-reinforced black plastic for its gears. The M-08 uses translucent white plastic gears maybe made from nylon. I’m not sure which one is superior. I want to say the carbon reinforced plastic might be stronger, but then again the M-08 is newer so perhaps Tamiya decided the nylon was better. I have another XV-01 waiting after this one, as well as a TA-06.
  12. So the tble 02 might even work with dual stock motors in a clod? as they are geared down pretty low
  13. Would love a Ford Ranger. But like a lot of others have said......I'd love to see the Mid........Mr Kyosho must be aware that the Mid is the one everyone is waiting for, with standard gold (none threaded) shocks and normal sized wheels., please!
  14. I'm on the hunt for a trf 4wd buggy. Any condition considered. Hopefully someone can help me out! Cash waiting.
  15. Try blowing an air gun into a open plastic bag, or under a sheet of paper held 1cm above a table. The effect is opposite to what you'd expect. The bag gets sucked closed, and the paper is sucked down onto the table. You can get the same effect with a flat bottom RC car, although I think the effects of dealing with the fact that the "inside" of an RC car shell is rather leaky (wheel arches and other gaps) makes much more of a difference than ground effects alone.
  16. Scratch built one would be better to run everyday, or a Kyosho. Tamiya boats are too fragile to transport in a car, I have a 40 EX and I can't even imagine transporting a Round The World.
  17. Try it, our lecturer used it to show the effect. If you hold a piece of paper with both hands (in the corners) ,the other end drops down. If you then blow across the top, length wise, the dropped end starts to lift. Agreed, and you'll need to be hitting that kind of speed to be in our top ten, going to have to start thinking about a more slippery body for my off road speed cars! 🤔 I think that's exactly what @stew_mac has done with his TT02, almost 120mph speed run car, layering carbon fibre onto the lexan body (if i remember right?)
  18. And mention the capillary effect when you are going to paint the shell. Probably it will pull some paint through the crack.
  19. Yes they are optional and same as SS , see page 10 of Hilux manual . I have some fitted to mine. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/modalpic.asp?img=toyotahilux_manual_16_200.jpg
  20. I have a Sand Scorcher body waiting to be masked and painted. It's been years now....
  21. A Mid to go with my originals, a Dynastorm and a Jamie Booth Egress please 🤣
  22. Hi guys - lets cut out the 'testing the bad word filters' please. None of them are perfect, but there is a reason they are there and I'm happy to live with occasional false red flags. Cheers Chris
  23. Australian buddy @Max Power has got to be one of the finest Lexan detail painters I have ever seen. His Hornet stripes are second to none! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125442&id=32558 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125444&id=32558 He also did the stock black version, bit I can't seem to find it anywhere.
  24. I'm using ABS function of my Futaba and since then the TL01 handles quite good. Before that, my rear has overturned me on almost each corner.
  25. Hi guys I have recently bought a Hotshot #58047 and because this is not enough I bought a Hotshot II #58062 just a few days later. As spare parts are widely available for the first one and a few for the second one I thought to buy a re-re Hotshot #58391 to donate the parts that I need for the restoration, because it's much cheaper than to buy the parts separate. For some reason it doesn't work for my brain, to buy a new kit and then to build an old car and take all the parts instead of building this new kit. My idea is now to build a fake vintage Hotshot and to take each old part, step by step, compare it with the new kit and replace it when it has no number or special marking and appears to be the same. That means I will end up with a fake vintage Hotshot made from new parts, well almost. I have all the old parts and bras screws that I need and the period correct Acoms radio/servos speed controller, resistors, etc.That's gone be fun :-) it clarifies my question what exactly the difference is, down to the last screw. Once it's finished I will drive it and produce a few scratches to make it look even more realistic. Always wanted to have a Hotshot and I can't wait to start with this project. BTW: It's not my intention to cheat or to declare this as a vintage Hotshot. It is for my very personal fun and it will remain in my collection. This is the wreck with all the known problems of this series but it is almost complete, apart from the rear stabilizer set and the roof. Unfortunately my tires are dyed and I can't use them anymore, the wheels are still pretty good in case that there is a difference. Have already started to dissemble the model and to remove the grease and dirt from the parts, it's really dirty and the plastic is quite brittle at some spots. Weird cables to connect a 9V block (???). . . . . have removed it. Damper are in good working order and the resistors only need to be cleaned and later I will polish them. The new fake resistors from the 58391 are not designed to fit the original carbon/FRP mounts, can't use them. The cleaned vintage upper frame, pretty much the only main part of the old chassis that i'm using. I can't find any number or "made in Japan" on the other parts, bumpers, protection cover. Neither on the front or rear arms. The red plastic seems to be also similar. I haven't opened the gear boxes yet but according to the manual there are no differences in the plastic parts but let's see. The old kit has bras parts, mainly ball connectors which I assume is not the case for the new kit and the dampers are different too from what I could read in the forum. The spoiler comes with a Japanese sticker, maybe was for the Japanese market? Will definitely use three of the old decals on the new body kit, that's one of it (without the arrows)
  26. Some parts for the Top Force. The TA02 high speed spurs and bearing kit from Stella, and the JX servo from banggood. Just the final rcmart order to go. And maybe another rcmart order - reading the instructions for the spurs it looks like the biggest pinion is a 25T. No idea why a 26T won't fit but anything bigger than 25T is crossed off the FDR chart. I shoukd be able to gear for 17.5T blinky though as i'll run modern wheels which are bigger. The JX servos look good for the price. USD13 delivered with decent specs (9kg and .11sec at 6v) and quality appears similar to Trackstar which are twice the price.
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