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Slapped on some wheels and tires and original bumper and body posts. Now I'm calling this done.
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No, I did not. Fussing about with makeshift solutions seemed silly when using Lithium AA worked fine, and when I knew I would just go LiFe eventually anyway. There is a menu setting for a custom battery alarm (CSTM) that you could probably make work with the 3x AA rechargeables if you were really committed to making it work.
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First set of wheels are painted, minus detailing. I love the colour. -
The MX V and MX6 both used a Rx that was unique to them and not used by any others in the sanwa lineup. I don't think there were clones made either. The 3PV uses all but the latest FHSS rx so shares them with the 10PX etc. Same with the rest of the Sanwa lineup, the MT4S can use any FH3 or FH4, the M17 can use FH3, FH4 and FH5, plus there are the aftermarket clones around too for both Futaba and Sanwa I also find that rx don't die so if you have enough then should always be ok?
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@bRIBEGuy have you tried fitting the 4 cell battery tray from the 3PV on the 4PM? Looks like it will fit. But yeah, the LiFe battery is a good investment, can’t imagine going back to AA batteries on my transmitters
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Ruddog accepted my pre-order today. Deliveries expected to start in early to mid May.
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Make sure you post the YouTube video 😉
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That pretty much makes the "optional" life battery mandatory... Not a huge deal, just a 40$ extra expense for me here in the US. Not a huge deal but it seems a bit annoying that there wouldn't be a way to adjust dry cell/NiXx/Life in the menu like you can do on certain Tx. Of course once you have the LiFe battery I am sure you never look back.
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Yes, that is correct.
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Just to understand correctly, because I am not native speaker: Dry Cell means normal batteries from shop?
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One thing I will mention as a negative about the 4PM is the battery setup. It requires 3 x AA DRY CELL batteries to run. I wasn't fussed about this, as I just read the "AA" part, and popped in some good (Enloop Pro) rechargeables (which seem to do fine in the 4x configuration of the 3PV). After a very short period of usage...... BEEP BEEP BEEP low battery warning. It's a PITA. Seems like the lower nominal voltage of rechargeable's is enough to mess with the alarm. Dang. I ran 3x Lithium AA's for a bit, but eventually just ponied up for a small LiFe pack, and have been really happy ever since.
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monster beetle Help with identifying Monster Beetle!
okieran replied to okieran's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Thank you both for your responses! Very happy to hear it could be the original. Could you recommend a battery? It's the only missing piece to get this thing running (fingers crossed). - Today
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From my understanding, most of the profits in RC are in replacement parts and hop-ups, so mass producing re-res that will likely end up on a shelf probably isn't all that profitable, thus the limited edition gimmick. Tamiya is big enough to where they can make re-res left and right, and it helps that ABS plastic is easy on molds. Of course, AE makes race-grade stuff but that's a niche part of the hobby. On the other hand, there's plenty of money in selling crawlers, MT10s and other "bashers", since people often end up buying replacement parts and upgrades.
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Thank you. I think I will go for 4PM, just to not regret that again I bought low end radio. I am 80% sure for now. I am still open for comments and opinions!
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As per your other thread: I own a 3PV and 4PM (and a 10PX). Out of the three the 4PM is the one to buy, unless you have a specific reason to choose otherwise. I bought the 3PV for my daughter, as it was well regarded, and notably lighter and smaller than most radios. Compared to the 4PM, it feels cheap and basic, and the user interface is a nightmare compared to other Futaba's. If I had seen one in person before I ordered it, I honestly would have just let her use her old radio a bit longer, and then sprung for a 4PM. That being said, in function it works fine, and I can't tell any "speed difference" between the 4PM and 3PV in actual use. Not that it would matter in a Midnight Pumpkin, SW01, or trail truck... The 4PM feels nicer, is easier to use, and has a lot of features I don't typically use... but might someday. I'd rather buy something a bit nicer now (if I have the cash) than have to re-buy down the road. I personally look at a TX as an investment in the hobby more than as a consumable item cost.
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Update: Shocks disassembled, washed, dried and ready for assembly. One shaft from front shock was damaged after crash, so I will use shafts from CVA shocks. They are shorter, so I have to use o-rings inside rear, to adjust travel. I hope I will not make mistake and end up with correct suspension setup. I am also not sure, which springs and oil I will use. Shocks will be mounted to towers bit differently than in stock version. It will be solution like in TRF cars. As bottom mounts I will use... 5 mm short adjusters. I found they are cheap and have exactly the same dimensions as mounts form shocks sprues.
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RC gallery (absolutely No words-pics only)
skom25 replied to Nicadraus's topic in General discussions
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@Chris.B: Yes, foam tires gave this class a massive boost. ETS might vary, but in my region F1 is rare, especially on practice events. If you make a race with a F1-class, you have 50 entries for touring car and 1/12 with three F1 drivers. The season continued and I was very happy with the car. If I remember correctly, I became club champion in that year. For the next year I tried more things. From my old AE touring car, I stole the front suspension and installed it on a carbon plate and then on the F104 chassis: Even with anti-roll-bar: The front end was fantastic now, but the rear needed more grip. You can see it in the next picture. I made a large multi story rear wing to fit between the rear tires (which became huge): You can also see the rear motor. As the motor had no regulation in our F1-class, I switched to a 10.5t Later I removed the huge tires and exchanged them for 30mm touring car foam tires. Therefore a wider F103GT axle from YeahRacing was installed. I also wanted to change the outfit and fell in love with the Brabham BT45 body: I remember that body with the large tires being oversteery, but looking great on track.
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Tamiya brushless TBLM connector bullets - what are they called?
Alex97 replied to Howards's topic in All things electric...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332599736864?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KLXIDDUuTtW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=pflrb5mospu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY That should save you a few quid. -
I agree they won't be discounted , id be surprised if AE doesn't just make what gets pre-ordered. Due to the cough cough Pandemic and the current Potato for an American President (I'm American), the world's economy is a faaaaar different place. Fuel costs alone justify the cost increase.
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The plastics cost more, compared to the clear fragile parts on the CC. Where can you buy a NIB Egress for 320?
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I'd wager that these will never hit discount. They will match the supply to meet the demand. They won't make the same mistake that they made with the Worlds re-release 10 years ago Here in the UK it seems that the allocated stock might already be sold out. I wouldn't mind having one of these, just for the stamped & laser-etched parts and the unique box. I don't really have a problem with the price but it is a bit galling, when I paid less than £150 each for two of the classics in 2013.
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Yes, new molded parts should be stronger. If you run original molded parts, it's important to keep them hydrated so they don't become brittle. I recall breaking maybe a couple front arm blocks, steering and castor blocks. This happens when one clips a tree or fence post - we have many obstacles in the back yard. Shock shafts and hinge pins can be made from 1/8" round stock if one has access to groove and threading cutting tools. I bought a 3' length from my local hardware store a few years ago and I think it's time to restock. Most RC10 parts are available through aftermarket sources and original parts from ebay (if you have deep pockets). Nearly every RC10 collector will want one pristine example to display and remember the old days. Pristine A stamp pans and front plates are fetching big money these days. If the trend holds, maybe someday I could liquidate my relatively modest collection and use the proceeds to buy a winter home in Costa Rica.
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Why would this cost almost 20% more than the clear though? I don't disagree that it's a good car, but it really does feel excessive for such a basic kit. Heck you can get an Egress for about the same price. I still want one but I'm hesitant because of the price. I'll either miss out or pick one up once we see a discount it if they're not selling. Can't help but feel that most buyers are considering this an investment and that AE would have made a lot more $$ selling a higher qty at $320.
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Correct, I didn't glue it. With a little patience, the installation of the diff unit was no problem.
