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Less than a year ago Kyosho was in serious financial trouble as a business in general and was being restructured. I doubt Tamiya are that worried. The Ultima will certainly bring in some extra revenue for Kyosho though.

No matter what condition nitro comes to me in I struggle to not make it boxart again! It's like a small switch inside me is flicked......

Dont feel too bad that Tamiya drill is £187 in the UK and 110v only!

Always use a cordless drill when taking apart one of the large 1/8 scale Tamiya nitro. Far too many screws otherwise. Of course if you have deep pockets there is always 74089. Its a Makita driver branded for Tamiya. https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74089screwdriver/index.htm

I have never had any issues changing fuel as long as the engine has been broken in correctly initially. As mentioned I think it is more to do with lubrication than nitro content. I have actually mixed odd bits of fuel together with no issues either. Generally I use 16% for most of the Tamiya nitro and 20% for the more demanding engines like the TNX 5.2r, Nitrage etc.

I moved this one over, I will keep an eye on any more obvious ones to move.

Yep, I think I have 10 plus a NIB

I tend to use Byrons and Model Technic fuels. 16% is usually a pretty good starting point

Nice, I have a 1/8 Mugen Supersport that is slowly being restored as Koji Sanada's IFMAR Worlds car. Had some input from him directly as he is now the CEO of Mugen

All good. TGM-01 was the Mad Bison, Terra Crusher range was TGM-02. Tyre weight is indeed bonkers!

Force 32 Engine in the TNX 5.2R. Pretty similar but Tamiya version has a different head and the carb and engine body have Tamiya not Force decals. Kits as follows 43508 TGM-03 TNX Released 03/06/2004 with FS-18SR Engine 43508X TGM-03 TNX Pro Racing Edition released by TamiyaUSA after some initial success in racing in the USA. (this truck pushed the design for the 5.2) 43530 TGM-04 TNX 5.2R Released 06/12/2006 Powered by the FR-32X 49460 TGM-04 TNX 5.2R Champagne Gold Edition released 20/11/2007 again powered by the FR-32FX Adam

Usual reason for burning up plugs is the mixture is too lean. Richen the mixture up till the exhaust smokes when using the throttle. The lean mixture generates heat. I nearly always use OS A3 and A8 glow plugs.

More the merrier, what plug, fuel and is it the kit motor?

LOL, I have one set of the MPI CVD's in silver not blue, I need another and I am also searching! They are 6025-00 Proline Progressive Powerstroke bypass shocks and are expensive used, the set on Ebay is £110 as I type this. The shocks are generally for E-Maxx and T-Maxx and were recognized as the best you can get for them so the price stays high even for used sets. I have all the bits needed now to build the same truck apart from one set of the CVD's. I have the servos, wheels, tyres, fuel filter, rotostart parts and engine backplate and the servo saver.

Plenty of videos about for doing this yourself, I think youtube had some. I am starting to make a table that shows what compression new Tamiya nitro engines have from the Factory so I can use it to compare compression on used engines to determine wear. Half, quarter worn etc. Not super scientific due to some variables however a good initial indication