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acprc

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Everything posted by acprc

  1. acprc
    Welcome to the site and the Forum. As you will appreciate we get a fair few scammers on the site and quite rightly the members will be wary of your single post. My steer would be to post up some pictures of the car and we can go from there with advice. Thanks
  2. acprc
    So after a week away its back on the Leopard. In the background I have been working on some of the upper hull. Reattaching missing parts and sorting out damage. The rear plate is coming along but I am missing the complete barrel lock. I will use a nickel replacement to finish it off The turret has and is needing lots of work. It had a large crack down the roof and lots of parts missing. Lots still to do but slowly getting there The tank uses an old switch controlled by a servo for forward and reverse. I have a new one so I will tidy it up and fit it back into the tank However, as this tank will eventually be sold I am going to fit a period Futaba ESC. I also have the switch plate for the tank so it can be mounted nicely. The new owner will get much better control with the ESC fitted. B But, the ESC needs a wire repair and new rubber connectors on the motor connectors Bit more progress over this weekend and we may see the tank fire up.
  3. acprc
    There is no rhyme or reason ref the suffix on the engines apart from FZ, FX, FD and CX in my mind. FD and FX denoting Force who made the original engines that were re branded as Tamiya and CX takes a nod to the Novarossi engine that was re branded to Tamiya. FZ seems to follow the chassis type of the TG10 Mk2 it was assigned to. I am sure that the Tamiya HQ would have some historical data as to why the first real engines in the majority of the kits (FS-12LT and FS-15LT) had the suffix LT however I dont know it. They were made by Shuwa a white label engine producer and maybe its just something from their model references. As far as I am aware LT does not stand for anything. The OPS and OS engines are pretty much the original designations however the FS-12SS, FS-12SW and FS-12SWG engines are indeed made by OS. Again, the suffix does not really tie into the engines that they are copied from. Maybe the SWG is also designated that way as it was only used on the TG10 Mk2SG kits so they added a G onto the SW suffix. 41083 will indeed only fit the FS-12FD.
  4. acprc
    I think most has already been said above. Tamiya has pretty much ditched nitro from its range now and the on road car parts are hard to find and expensive. I agree though that the TNX, TGM and NDF-01 buggies are a good alternative. Even these though have some really hard to find genuine Tamiya parts. The TNX and TGM fuel tanks are difficult to find and demand a premium, genuine TNX range wheels are equally difficult. However, these are vintage and part of the fun is finding the parts and restoring the cars. One other kit to consider is the TNS-B range of buggies. A few about and pretty robust. Also they are engines with Tamiya branded Force engines so parts are very much easier to find.
  5. acprc
    Hi all, Just removed another three scammers from the site this morning. It's that time of year where everyone wants something cheap for Christmas so please do your due diligence before buying anything online. The general rule is that if it's too good to be true then it probably is! Some hints Don't pay with Paypal Friends and Family if they are not Friends or Family! Don't pay with a Bank Transfer or Western Union checks etc. Most messages where someone tells you a friend has it are scams. Its either a referral to another scammer or just another account they own. Always ask for a picture with your name on a piece of paperwork next to the item you are interested in. Do a reverse image search though Google to see if the image is about elsewhere. Rare items are just that, rare, and so you wont see many pictures of them and scammers have a lot less to choose from. Oh and if you get contact here and you are not sure ask me. I can log into anyone's account and see what messages they are sending. Scammers stand out for the sheer number they are sending . One scammer actually replied to one of my wanted ads this morning in this way....it was his/her last mistake and they and their IP are now banned. Hope that helps, be safe. Adam (Acprc)
  6. acprc
    So a bit more done on the Leopard. Got the gearbox fitted into the tank, the motor cleaned up and fitted to the gearbox Rewired the motor with new wire and added some heatshrink on the original switch. Fitted the rest of the sprockets and idler wheels then added the metal tracks Got the top coat done on the centre caps and they have just been fitted using hot glue. I use hot glue instead of modelling glue as it will hold the caps in place but they can be removed if needed. A work trip to China for a week will stop things for about 10 days however planning to get the rest of the tank wired up so I can test that it runs ok.
  7. acprc
    Excellent.........PM incoming on weekend my friend.
  8. acprc
    Hi both, Apologies for the slow reply. It all got lost in the many emails and messages. So I think I may have some torsion bars now on the Leopard A4 chassis that I have acquired for parts. I need to do some size comparisons but I think they will be the same. The turret rivet are as below. They are just plastic block that the turret rides on when moving. I have a feeling they are unique to the King Tiger as the newer version now uses a turret ring and wheels to glide on. I may have to seek the help of a 3D print expert. @jonboy1 may know someone!
  9. acprc
    A bit more progress Rubber tyres were dried and then sprayed with Gummi Pfledge and then wiped dry and fitted to the road wheels. Chassis Yellow Olive also came out ok The sprockets all look good and the front idler wheel that has to be moved to get the idler shaft out Took the rear sprocket centre caps off the donor chassis and got them primed. Will be yellow olive before the end of the day. Just before I am typing this up I have started getting the gearbox back in. Got the motor to clean up now and get some new wires on it then it can be fitted. More to come
  10. acprc
    So with the chassis clean I set about getting it painted. Tamiya originally specified Olive Drab in the 1977 manual however the real tank would of been Gelboliv or Yellow Olive. With modern paint I can just purchase airbrush colour already done. First job was to get everything primed. Here I am using Vallejo grey primer and then some shadowing applied with black paint. This will make the top olive coat darker in places. While that was drying I came across an incomplete Leopard 1 in Japan and purchased it Now this might sound a bit crazy but I paid just £48 for the chassis and it has a wealth of parts. Firstly it has provided a complete set of good roadwheel rubbers. At nearly 3 euros each for reproductions this is an instant saving as you need 32 for each tank! The chassis also had a few missing plastic parts from the rear deck and the turret and also lots of the control parts for the steering etc. Whats left will be sold off. I am expecting to make my money back on the part that are left. A set of tracks, gearbox, clutch etc. The chassis also has some parts for my King Tiger restoration (torsion bars) Road wheels went through the ultrasonic, will then be dried, treated with Gummi Pflege and then a very small bit of rubber grease applied before refitting Chassis has just had two coats of Yellow Olive and then will be sprayed with matt varnish to seal in the colour. The turret has been started and slowly filling cracks and sanding etc. More to come soon
  11. acprc
    Hi all, After the following parts for an original 56004 1/16 King Tiger. Suspension Torsion Plate x 2 Turret Rivet x 1 Drop me a note if you can help. Thanks
  12. acprc
    Sorry for the delay in replying I have been out of the country travelling for work. Please reach out if you need any support.
  13. acprc
    Added
  14. acprc
    So, with the gearbox out the rest of the chassis was stripped down to be cleaned. The motor and mount, switch etc all taken off. The chassis itself was pretty greasy which wasn't a surprise given the state of the gearbox assembly. As It looked when stripped down The metal chassis was then given a two stage clean. First was brake cleaner and a brush to remove the grease inside and then a hot soapy wash. Came out ok I think. Just some old sticky pads to get off with some glue remover. The rubber road wheels are all perished so I will need to order 24 reproduction ones! Not cheap at nearly 3 euros each. The motor will have the wires removed and then be cleaned and new wires fitted. The switch will be replaced as I have some new ones in stock. I also got my DSPIAE mini reciprocating sander in from Aliexpress. These are very handy for removing old glue etc on the plastic hull and turret parts prior to painting. More to come on that but here is a picture. USB powered it charges in no time and uses small self adhesive sanding squares.
  15. acprc
    Started stripping the chassis down this morning. Got the tracks off, motor out, switch off and then the gearbox out. Gearbox was pretty dirty but was going in the Ultrasonic. but came out well after an hour at 60 degrees. Even found another turret part that was obviously stuck in the gearbox somewhere. Nice and clean now. Will be dried and then re-lubricated using a teflon dry lube spray.
  16. acprc
    Oh dear, I think the thread is only going one way after that
  17. acprc
    Well something very different from me but welcome to another build/restoration thread. Recently I have been picking up and restoring a few Tamiya 1/16 scale Tanks. This is the second of 4 that I have to restore. The first, a Flakpanzer Gepard is too far down the build to document it but I thought this one would make a good candidate from the beginning. So this is kit number 56002 or RT-1602 and was first released in July 1977. It really is at the forefront of Tamiya RC with the first 58 series car the Porsche 934 coming out 5 or so months earlier. I picked this one up in Japan and have been collecting a few parts to get it started. The main parts of the tank I have The base chassis and some spares parts I have found to add back the details that are missing I have also picked up a vintage period Futaba transmitter, receiver and servos to go back in the tank So the plan is to strip the chassis down, Ultrasonic the gearbox and get that all neat and tidy again. Strip the wheels off and rejuvenate or replace the road rubbers accordingly. Quite a few have perished but the restoration will include original and reproductions. The top deck and turret will need some plastic repairs, filling, sanding and obviously a repaint. This will be done in stages as I build up the bits that are missing. There are also then some extra modern reproduction brass parts that will be used to make the Leopard look better and also complete it. Obvious things that are missing are the IR search target light and hatches. The tank will be converted to 7.2v for ease of battery availability and it may get a modern MSC. I do like the idea of using the old microswitch system though. Will be a fairly long one as I need to finish the Gepard but stay tuned for more.
  18. acprc
    Hi, I will make Chris aware. A bit past my technical ability this one!!
  19. acprc
    I hadnt noticed but then my home internet is slow anyway! Starlink just arrived today so soon to be fixed.
  20. acprc
    and by way of an update I purchased a brand news set of 27Mhz AM crystals. Despite having tried three pairs of crystals previously the new pair worked fine. The Futaba TX is now talking to the Acoms RX. I need to do some servo position swaps however all three servos in the tank were moving (just not with the correct transmitter control).
  21. acprc
    So looks like either the RX or my Futaba TX are not working. I remembered that I had a picture of the original TX that should of been with the tank and based on the photos from @Mouc-RC confirmed that the RX is AM as the Acoms TX has the AM details on the top right. I need to check all my 27Mhz AM crystals (and maybe buy a new pair to confirm) but at least I am making progress.
  22. acprc
    Yep, I am now betting I have a 27Mhz FM Acoms ARA-427 RX and that is why my AM 27MHz Futaba TX isnt working.
  23. acprc
    UK. I have plenty of crystals I think the issue is which ARA-427 do I have!
  24. acprc
    Hi all, Anybody know if the vintage Acoms ARA-427 4CH receiver is AM or FM? I have one in a Vintage Flakpanzer Gepard Tamiya 1/16 tank and trying to match up a TX. I have a Futaba FP-T4NBL that is 27MHZ AM27 and it doesn't do anything when powered up. I am guessing that means the ARA-427 is FM27?
  25. acprc
    Topic locked. @pirtoo check your Private Messages please.
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