phiber_optik
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96 ExcellentAbout phiber_optik
- Currently Viewing Topic: M-05 Car Park Basher Build
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Definitely something to think about, it’s great to see other options outside of tamiya, even though I’ve never owned another other than tamiya with the exception of a Kamtec 3 wheeler.l. The 3racing chassis is peaking my interest, as long as I can have access to spur gears I can’t see it being an issue, combined with a phatbodies or bitty shell it could be a competent car park fwd basher without a hefty price tag.
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And here I thought I only had to make a decision between 2 models, M05 or 7 now 3R is on the cards lol
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Will have to have another look at the 3R stuff, I’m still old skool as in I still haven’t made the jump to Lipo, will these chassis take an NiMH stick pack?
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I don’t baby my cars, if they get battered they get battered as long as there is spares available though I hate breaking a car lol. My concern with the 3Racing and Xpress is the exposed gears. I have ran a mardave on foams outside and never had issues though but it’s direct drive. Would it break my heart in the long run on a 3R etc?
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A build thread will absolutely be done come the time 😃
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This is all very interesting, I had worked out that an M05 would cost about the same as an M07 by the time you added the required upgrades. But the whole running it on a car park is what got me, good to know the M07 can gain some ground clearance which would solve my concern. Plug the hole in the chassis and play away. The car parks and drive I use are both pretty fresh, so hopefully a M07 will cope, else there’s the 60D options and if all else fails full size wheels.
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I had my mind set on an M07 as a quality build but I also love running my vehicles (car park run around cones normally with my son and his cars. We’ve have a collection but normally it’s a TT02, GF01 and a soon to be retired while it’s still in one piece M03) I totally understand the M07 is the better kit but how does it fair in car park bashing vs an M05 or M06 (no preference for either FWD or RWD). Thoughts and advice welcome.
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I’ve been reading through the posts and believe I understand now, I need a thread forming / rolling tap verses a thread cutting tap which is what I have many off. Need to acquire a thread forming tap now, Tamiya or other. Tamiya one seems to be harder got in the UK but have seen other available ones are reasonable money that can be obtained easily.
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I am looking to purchase and build an M07. I understand it is recommended to use an M3 tap for anywhere that screws together. Will a normal tapered M3 tap suffice or does it need to be a thread forming / bottom / plug tap?
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That’s pretty funky! Next question just to throw something else in the bag, would 1.55 rims fit?
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Good to know within reason it is possible to make a decent trails vehicle, keep thinking I will just buy a crawler but I like sticking with famous, I’ve had cc01 but didn’t bond with it. My original thoughts were lift, lock diffs, CV joints and the cc01 rock block tyres from the unimog 425 and a smaller pinion, so seemed to have ticked the boxes.
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So my son has a hot wheels that is based on a Porsche 911… I’ve seen a few Porsche TT02 lifted but I’m curious if I lifted a TT02, locked the diffs and threw on a set of CC01 tyres would it be capable as a trails vehicle? Obviously based on the hot wheels lol.
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Hi everyone, I am thinking about a "crawler" in the near future, I know there are Traxxas, Axial and Element versions which are highly thought off but I've always liked the HPI Venture. Is it still a worthy Chassis? It will only be used for trail walking and not aggressive crawling etc.
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Very cool, how did you do the spot lamps?
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phiber_optik started following 4 Cell ESC
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Hi, Just wondering if anyone can give some advice on a CHEAP Esc that's capable of running 4.8v 4 cell NiMH batteries. Just for some mardave/kamtec vehicles. I seen mtroniks autosport 20 can run 4 cell and handle down to a 20t. Will only be running stock silver cans. Does anyone else have any recommendations? Ta, Chris