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DJTheo

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Everything posted by DJTheo

  1. The TEU-101 will work ok with the BZ if your transmission is fully ballraced and in good condition. Best value for money would be to get the original hop up shocks for it (the yellow monster Beetle ones) which now are black and have the number 50520, you need 2 pairs. Cheers
  2. With hot motors it would be overgeared with the big pinions, racers usually use short gearing. Also a high top speed cannot overcome deficencies in acceleration or handling, except if its a drag race. Cheers
  3. So my guess was correct, we are talking about the same one! [Y] Cheers
  4. Charging losses are usually bigger then 10%, you usually need to multiply charging time with 1.4, for example a 3000mAH with 3A charging current would need 1.4 hours. Cheers
  5. Normal sized receiver should fit as the Tamiya one is also not smaller. Cheers
  6. TRU03 (TSU are servos) has also an intergrated failsafe, while TRU02 not. Cheers
  7. Battery # is 55090 although might be better to get some 3rd companies ones which make NiMH packs for it with double+ capacity, Tamtech original receiver # is 45036. Cheers
  8. Neither will give you that info, as they are both special editions about the history of products, you need the normal yearly cataglue or RC guidebook, the 2007 catalogue will soon come out and the RC one around May. Cheers
  9. There are 4 plates which some you put on the one side of the motor holding screw and some on the other, this way you have automatically the correct distance to the spur for 5 different pinions, same also with the other HS family cars Cheers
  10. The same reason as most have rear solid axles and underdamped suspension, they are made for soft highway crusing, not curve fun [] Good thing though is due to their poor suspension and big motors they don't need a handbrake for some fun oversteering! [] Cheers
  11. Except the above mentioned front arms and bodies at rear mount also Ranger bodies break often around front fender (as tires can rub on it under compression and steering), front steering knuckles can break (no big deal though after the Frog re-re) as well as front bumpers are fragile. Cheers
  12. Last 2 ones finished around $600, so normal ebay level, they are getting rarer though. Cheers
  13. Just get every year the Tamiya catalogue and you will see which kits are discontinued, thanks to ebay it takes some times till they get rare after. Cheers
  14. Since you already have bought ball bearings, I would recommend you to get a ESC and a Tamiya Super Stock BZ motor, its great torque suits monster trucks like a glove, you wont recognise your car and love it! Cheers
  15. Despite looking similar almost all parts are different!!! so you are better off selling the Bruiser and getting a Hilux/Blazer instead as if you try to convert you will have both in the end LOL Or if you dont care about originality and correctness you could try adapting smaller wheels on the Bruiser (needs Hilux axles or special hubs/adapters) and adapting their bodies to fit it, but won't be easy. Cheers
  16. I would welcome such a section (even better for all picture show threads) as this way it wouldn't mix with discussions I want to see, as like terry.sc, I preffer to watch pictures in the showrooms and read/use the forum for discussions, help seeking and advice. I just like tidy organisation and clear separation/rules, guess my German half... LOL [] Cheers
  17. It is 53131 but they are long discontinued so you have to pay high ebay prices if some rarely appear, Tamiya http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/category.php?sub-id=71300 and Kawada make some other BBS style wheels, but non alu and looking as nice. Cheers
  18. isnt Janderson american in cali working for tamiya he knew about it, but I believe had to keep it hush hush???? Well that anyone can say so that, the only fact is that Snake posted it here first. Also according to another TC member working for 17 years for a Tamiya distributour, very few knowledge gets before outside Japanese HQ, so chances are often even Japanese stores know before other distributors: (from http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/2/196062/ShowThread.aspx) Cheers
  19. I think I know which store you are talking about. The only thing we ebay users can do is to try to avoid such sellers which excessive shipping cost or negative feedback or even report such things, the more people do it consequently, the better this marketplace will be. Cheers
  20. Well, why would I repeat your several errors that others already pointed out. I just can't stand when people claim they know stuff (RL racing physics) when from their posts its clear they don't. Also I very rarely critise knowledge in this forum as its (thank god) usually correct and comes from people who have experience with it, I would be also critisised if I would start posting in a cooking forum [], that's why I unlike you I just post things I am pretty knowledged about, not just googled semiknowledge. I never critisized you also in the Hummer topic as you seem to have good knowledge of static modelling but in RC stuff its obvious you don't, noone can be expert in all fields. I also don't try to re-invent the world on things I don't know, except when you are a Einstein in your field, you better follow the existing knowledge and don't try to proove everyone wrong, it usually leads to failures (like your 100kph M02 project). When everyone sais something is white, the chances its black are very low. Since you want more constructive critics, here there are []: It is more silly to setup it up to some randon values and putting some random material, thickness, shape stabilizers on it. As said its better to start from a prooven setup then "tabletop" guestimate one, except if you have alot of experience with (RC) racing, which you don't. The M02 was a dragster with a real 2WD front suspension that should go straight only and you even used some ultra thin ring tires at front, those 2 cars and targets have not really much in common. Also you called even an almost stock TA01 with even a high and heavy ABS hard body and high off road tires as stable and great handling, so I am not sure about your judging standards... [:S] How do you measure with your eyes a mass distribtution especially on a F1 where most parts and extra weights are hidden, would also like some FEM and x-ray eyes [] Even if you would know it wouldn't help much as it has totally different suspension geometry and aerodynamics (which even if in scale downsized wouldn't act the same, as aerodynamic forces are highly nonlinear. 1. They all work the same, only due to their different torsional and bending loaded sections they have all a different "total" stiffness. 2. Stabilizers are made from special chosen stiffness material and diameter, so you have to be very lucky that a random material and diameter would be close to optimality. Better use and modify existing stabilizers as they are closer to the desired for 1:10 cars stiffnesses . 3. A 4WD car made to 2WD is already too much oversteerer due to its non optimal weight distribution. By putting a stabilizer on the rear you just make oversteer worse, you rather put it to the front. Wow, you just discovered the way a stabilizer works, congratulations! [Y] What will be explained next? How a damper works? Sorry, but it really gets me when someone presents ultraold stuff as his new big discovery. Btw a stabilizer and thus less body roll doesn't improve grip in corners but reduces it on that axle, just makes steering and handling more precise. Some car and physics books or texts might not harm when you try to "reinvent the wheel", will save you the steps from making it squared at first [] Cheers
  21. I am not sure what you mean with RL race car (as you have used this term several times before too) but if you mean real car racing physics, they might give some understanding about what effects what, but won't give you working initial designs and setups, as not all factors can be 1:10 scaled down, so you need alot of RC racing experience as others wrote. Also I doubt anyone of us really understands in depth modern racing car setups, aerodynamics etc except if he is doing it professionally, almost everyone else has just "google and TV program knowledge" as it can be seen also by the several corrections in this and the older Alpine M02 thread. Cheers
  22. Diameter doesn't really change as we wouldn't like rubbing on fender, different gearing and wrong tachometers, but the tire stiffness and thus deformation and pressure distribution. Cheers
  23. Didn't say anything against that, only that 4WD chassis made to 2WD handle even worse then chassis which were designed for 2WD. As above 60/40 weight distribution isn't great for a 2WD car, look at 2WD buggies and pan cars to see how back the motor is. Also RWD vehicles have usually a different front caster angle which you can't change easily as camber. Tires aren't a real solution to bad handling or unsuitable weight balance. Also what would ride height affect??? Problem is setting up needs knowledge, experience and alot of testing, so such a-priori changes don't lead anywhere unless you have alot racing experience and knowledge, so would better recommend start from the factory setup (even if its for 4WD) and start with one change at a time, as with many changes you can drift quickly far away from the "optimal working point" Cheers
  24. Sorry but thats one of the most widely spread to most automotive interested errors as a) the actual contact surface doesn't change much with wider tires (as they have a wider but less long surface "square", check pic below) Here is a very good article about tires and wheels http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html even if it would change, friction force F is INDEPENDENT from contact area, as surface pressure decrease with larger area and just depends on friction coefficient m (material of contact surfaces) and the normal force N pressing them together (usually weight), F=mN http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction Another thing that most people don't know is that friction acceleration (for example maximum braking decelleration) is also INDEPENDENT from weight/mass, as higher weight (normal force F) is counterweighted exactly by the higher inertia due to the larger mass, so with the same rubber mixture and tarmac a 500kg and 2000kg car would brake in the same distance if they both have optimal brakes. So the maximum theoretical braking decceleration just depends on the friction coefficient of the 2 surfaces, i.e. rubber mixture and road surface! So why do sportive cars have wider tires then? The answers are a) they can dissipate heat better due to their larger surface due to their larger surface softer mixutres can be used c) they have less deformation at braking or cornering (usually combined with lower profile) so they give more precise handling and better feedback to the driver Unfortunately these things seemed not be passed well in school physics, so even most of my University students don't know them before I tell them, so you are excused! [] Cheers
  25. True but most modern cars have those already from factory, thats why extra holes and slots don't really bring much, except faster warping. Also true, but you can get also modern car brakes to fade when you brake several times from very high speed, but that would be only legal in Germany LOL (so I have felt it too many times LOL) Cheers
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