RichieRich

All of my older stuff has period electronics. But, if I drive them, I use a modern radio. 75MHz radios are the devil, Mama!!! So glitchy!

Thank you! This is PS-16 Metallic Blue and PS-23 Gun Metal. I'm not a big fan of the yellow but I wanted to try to keep some Avante colors.

I recently purchased some MRC/Academy shock bodies that are upgrades for the SB Sport 4WD buggy. I have all the parts to assemble EXCEPT for the "damper bush" circled in the pic. I believe it has an 8mm outside diameter, 3mm thick and with an M3 hole. Can anyone confirm the specs or point me to a parts tree?

Finished! Again, I added the TT02B/DT03 dampers, slipper and front cvds.

Yeah, it was down for maintenance earlier this week. I guess they wanted to make it slower and they have succeeded.

This thread made me laugh. I have 18 Tamiya-type 4 way box wrenches: 11 Tamiya, 3 Kyosho, 2 HPI, 1 Academy and 1 unknown wrench with a hole in the center. The HPI ones are nice because one side can hold a ball end for threading turnbuckles.

I have one but I totally wore it out. Everything is cracked. The plastic hub drives, the suspension arm mounts and the front bulkhead. The plastic halfshafts turned into sharp pointy things and the tires literally melted. It was a fun truck.

I use the FlySky FS-i6 for my Bruiser clone. It's works well for driving/shifting. There's a guy on youtube who uses one of these on his builds and has programmed his lights, etc. The channel is called hobbyconcepts. One huge note, the radio is built for airplanes so the throttle stick does not recenter. You'll have to mod the gimbal using a kit sold by FlySky. Super easy to do though.

I have also experienced this but I'm having a hard time remembering which car was giving me problems. I kinda want to say it's my FF01/TA02 cars?? Like, you're changing a wheel and in the process, the hex falls off and in trying to catch it, you drop the pin and to top it all off, a bearing slides out and rolls across the floor under a shelf.

Yes. Also, you can figure this out the long way using math. The input is 25 teeth and the diff is 50 teeth. So you have 50/25 = 2. If you want to include the idlers, again which you don't need to do, you have this: 27/25 x 27/27 x 50/27 = 1.08 x 1 x 1.852 = 2

Idler gears do not factor into the overall gear ratio at all no matter how big or small they are. Idlers are literally there to change the spin direction or move power farther from the input.

I checked my manual and of course, Kyosho recommends their Polyca paints. They only had 12 colors at the time with KYO2230Y being their yellow. I think most Kyosho guys have just been using PS6. Maybe PS6 backed with some PS19?

Are you sure the seller sold you an authentic Tamiya transmission? There is a clone version and the internal parts are not as smooth which upsets the shifting mechanism. The clone is a copy of the current Bruiser 3-speed. If you have an older original 3-speed, then there might be a different issue.

Oh great, thanks for reminding me! Decisions, decisions...

Ah, ok. I've never actually read either of those threads. I can lock the original and re-title the "problem fixed" thread. If you want something fancy done, we'll have to wait for netsmithuk to open the hood and root around...not Aussie root, btw.