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maxHiLux

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About maxHiLux

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    max_laoh@hotmail.com
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    http://www.laoh.com
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  • Location
    8757
  • Interests
    RC, PC
  1. Do you have any info on the contaner trailer 56326, price or stock date. Will IT be possible to pre order? Max
  2. Hi I use these batteries and these are superb. I use them on my Mamba Max 7700Kv brushless set (replaced the Tamiya plug) and it works very well, there where my brand new Intellect battery blew on the first run! I also use the 2s and 3s Lipo sets of Vapextech and I think these are the same value for money. Max
  3. If you mean the XC Pajero (MTW) (the re-re) it is pretty easy. There are not many things that break, and spare parts are easy available (it has the same chassis as the Touareg). If you are going to drive in mud and sand (salt water even??) then you should mount a strong servo and the steerig can be a pain. it is made out of a platic pin through the chassis, turning in the plastic of the chassis. If sand gets in it it can be a show stopper. I replaced this with a rather expensive part from Bauteil1 (german XC specialist) if you are handy you might be able to do something yourself with flanged bearings and a metal axle. The 540 motor is for crawling purposes to fast, better mount a lathe motor or a special Truck puller etc for more torque and less speed. Hope this helps Max
  4. The most sense is running the RTR, since its Lexan so less chance of damage and lighter so better center of gravity in the car. Make sure though to put on oil shocks (standard friction are useless). On the other hand MTW is soon in rere so this will make it easy to replace the top. Just my 2p. Max
  5. I have a 4600 in a TA-02 touring car, really smooth, works extremely well, and a 7700 in the Durga. Super sets, maybe you should take the 5700 or 6900 for torque/speed balance. Max
  6. I can't imagine any use of the torque splitter in a XC. You mostly want the XC wheels as fixed as possible to get through the mud, usually even the front axle locked. Max
  7. Well I agree to the hex screws, or if you want to stay with the stock screws, grease them one by one with something like ball diff grease. I don't see the point of changing the dogbones , I have never lost it up to now. Ditch immediatly the stock motor (why is it in the kit) because you should mount a very hot one. Max
  8. TA-02 rules. So my bet's on the Ford Max
  9. I have experienced the same problem and replaced with the metal ones. But what is crucial is that you thighten the first time very very secure. Because if you have got to retighten the diff it will end in worn out nuts and even the smal ballbearing will break. Best to never use the plastic cups and start with the after market ones. Max
  10. Hi, The SR3000 is equiped with BEC, so you just have to connect te red bec cable from the TEU-101BK to the bat/tel from the SR3000. Make sure the red matches + and black - (black on the same pin as brown of servo). BTW BEC stands for battery eleminator circuit and was invented for running the receiver on main battery power instead of 4 heavy AA size batts in your car! Hope this helps, Max
  11. Anyone knows why my truck has been deleted as entry? (DAF Dakar truck) Max
  12. I think you missed out TNX (Tamiya Nitro eXtreme) however strange enough the chassis of TNX's and pre's are TGM-XX (Tamiya Gas Monstertruck???) TG-XX (Tamiya Gas???) and TGS (Tamiya Gas Special ??? Just guessing Greets Max
  13. TB01 will fit but isn't the right scale (1/10). What fits very fine is Porsche 959/ Celica group B (look here: Mini in my showroom). there must be a lot of these drivers left since the 959 body shell was so weak.... Max
  14. Good to here from you Chris and hope you can find time again in the future. Of course if you need some sort of help don't hesitate to ask. Greetings & a happy 2008. Max
  15. Thanks guys, A lot of opportunities. The DF-03 is an option when using the front ones on another car Max
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