Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About oldWilly

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Well yes that is always a problem with the Blazer I find too. If you really look at the steering set up there are way too many areas for slop, and friction too, most notably the bell crank located at the front, it is not bearinged or bushed, it’s kind of a mickey mouse affair made out of 3 little rods, really bad design but hey it was 1982! They did a better job on the Bruiser with its beefer moulded arm but it’s still not wonderful. You will notice that modern crawlers put the servo right on top of the axle, ugly? Yes, but it works better. The other big factors are the weight of the truck, whats a Blazer? 12 pounds or so I seem to recall, they are fairly beefy, so was the Hilux but it had one advantage….narrower tires. The big paddle tires on the blazer are very cool but just hard to move and they made them out of a nice grippy rubber too. At least the Bruiser had a harder compound tire and it was more rounded in profile too, it helps reduce the surface friction. I was going to try some newer rounded crawler tires on my Blazer to see if the steering works better. You can also change the spring in the servo saver to a stronger one or shim the existing one but take my advice and don’t lock the servo saver completely or it will just start breaking plastic parts off when the wheels don’t want to move and the servo is still pushing. We have some very high torque servos available now but don’t push it too far, parts are hard to find. So that’s all I know about it, I have just learned to drive it the way it is, it’s a bit sloppy but I never really get it going very fast anyway, I can’t imagine rolling it over would be very good would it?
  2. Hey friends, I have recently found a really nice old B2B sidecar kit except it is missing a couple of things, some I had in my spares collection and the manual was an easy download but I am in need of a decal sheet for the build. I would be interested in a Tamiya original or what ever you have. I want to build this one at long last but right now I am considering a custom paint job but I always wanted to do it right. Perhaps I have a part you need? Help please
  3. Hey DJTheo, Thanks for the info. I am not sure what you mean by too heavy, I am not sure how the weight of the truck would cause the tire to crack all the way around. If it was just a spot where it was sitting I could accept that, but.... I do have the inserts installed but the truck was not on stands. The tires were not washed or treated in any way. So my quest continues. Any other ideas? Anyone??
  4. Hey there! I stay away from the brake fluid all together as it is hard on the skin and to hard to dispose of, you should not be pouring it down the drain! It's bad for us all! I use Easy Off oven cleaner ( cheaper too) and sometimes a hobby shop product called Easy Lift Off or ELO. I do know what you are talking about though. I think the brake fluid reacts and srinks some plastics on the surface. This sets up internal stresses in the part that cause it to crack and crumble right before your eyes. Most containers of it have a caution about spilling it on painted or plastic parts of your car perhaps this is why. Try the oven cleaner method. Just brush it on and wait untill the paint softens. Then use some liquid soap and a brush to scrub the paint loose then just wash it all off with water and your done. Don't go straight for the water as it neutralizes the chemicals and you end up with a big sticky mess of old paint, the soap holds the old paint in suspention so the water can wash it away. Same goes for the ELO. BTW the old body shells are styrene plastic like a model kit. The suspentions are ABS plastic, that's why you can't glue it back together with model glue.
  5. Hey, Skip the grease, If you are taking it all appart switch the bushings to sealed ball bearings. I did it a few years ago, it's a bit tricky and you need to make a couple of small spacers but it was worth it, the trans is so smooooth! I think there are even some web posts ( Now ) about doing it. All you will need then is a bit of lube on the shift forks and sliding parts, some spray oil is great. I even think I saw someone who had converted his 3 speed to be oil filled, looks like too much work for me but hey, it's your truck! Just be careful and make some diagrams and/or take pictures as you go, there are a lot of little parts in there! Good luck
  6. Hello Fellow Canuck! I have found that Easy Off oven cleaner works great for removing the paint, just don't get it on your skin! Also there is a great product you can get at your LHS called Easy Lift Off or ELO, it is from a company called Floquil Polly S. I don't like brake fluid is it is hard on the skin, costs too much and is a big disposal problem too, you can't just pour it down the drain! I don't know about the radio box I have never had to strip one, as they say test it in an inconspicuous spot first. You may just want to polish the paint off it with rubbing compound. The best tip I can give for both chemical methods is let the stuff soak for a while ( a half hour or more ) check to see it is not drying out, brush on more as needed. Then when the paint is blistered and soft take a tooth brush ( an old one, not your wifes!) and with some dish soap only, scrub the paint off to break it up. If you go straight for the water you will have a sticky mess as the water neutralizes the chemicals and the paint tries to solidify again. The soap holds the paint in suspension and then you can wash it off with water. Try it it works! I have used it for years on old R/C and static models too. As for the part numbers, checking in my old MRC/ Tamiya parts books the old numbers for the Grasshopper fronts were SP-1121 or 5121 and rears were SP-1122 or 5122. The first number is the original numbering system and the second number are from the 1988 parts manual. Note these are also for complete wheels and tire sets front and rear. I know there were seperate part numbers for some of the later cars wheels and tires but the only listings I have for the early stuff is for the wheel/tire combo sets. I am trying to find out if I can get spares from the current re-release of the Hornet. It has the same 4 rims and front tires as the SS. I could use a new set of front wheels and tires for my SS too. I was fortunate to get some NOS rear stuff on the 'bay a few years ago before the prices when out of sight. If I can find the numbers I will post them here for you. Also you might want to consider just equiping it with the Hornet wheels and tires front and rear for now, pin spikes would look good and you know they will fit. I have had good luck with the Monster/ Blitzer Beetle parts they are the same except the tail light. That is a 1 piece moulding, no seperate clear lens. But a good paint job will help hide that. Good luck.
  7. OK guys[], I have been trying to find some information to help me with my problem. About 3 years ago I though I would put new tires on my Hilux. I wanted to save my origianl tires as they are in good shape and still are[]. I read about fitting the tires from the newer trucks (F-150, S-15, Hummer, Jeep Wrangler)so I ordered a new set and yes they fit pretty good. I drove the drive a few times, put it back on the shelf, changed jobs, got too busy, moved, etc. I haven't driven the truck, it has just been on the shelf and my 3 year old tires are cracked right through on the side walls![!] I can litterly pull the tread section right off on a couple of them leaving the beads on the rim! I only noticed when I was packing it to move late last year. The original 20 plus year old tires are in better shape that the 3 year old tires.?? Any thoughts? No they were not exposed to sunlight, my shelf was in a dark corner, I did not apply any tire treatments etc. Are they just making sub standard tires now? The main reason I ask is because I want to put on another set and run it again but don't want to waste more money on new tires that will come apart in 3 years or less[]. I really liked the new tread and found the truck worked better than before but....... I have several other vintage cars on the shelf and with only few exceptions there is no tire rot going on. I have found the Super Champ type pin spike tires crack the side walls too but they are 20 years old. ......On a side note I have one set of pin spikes that is thicker than the others and also they have no breather hole on the tread face, but other than that they look to be OEM vintage Tamiya tires, could they be a newer moulding?[?] The only differance I could feel on the new tires for the Hilux is they seemd a bit more "plastic" than the old ones, they still feel like real rubber. If I must I will try and source out some NOS Hilux tires $$$[] and then drive it on the originals until they are dead or find some Blazer rims and tires for it, I always wanted to see what that would look like.....hummm.....[] Give me your thoughts on this, did I do something wrong? Are they reacting to the aluminum rims? Help!
  8. Hey guys, I have had good luck recently with putting new cells in my old "hump" 7.2 volt Tamiya packs. As you all are aware you can't put a new stick pack in a stock SS or any of the early cars. I found my favorite electronics warehouse was selling a 7.2 V 1500 mha sub C pack for about $10 new. I carfully scribed along the glue line on the old Tamiya case until I could seprate the top and bottom. I reuse the wires and plug if they are good and with a few simple solder joints, fit the new batteries in and reglue the case, I have a new 1500 mah vintage "Hump" pack for my cars. Willy is happy again! Give it a try if the pack is already dead you have got nothing to loose. PS. I find the electronics warehouse a great source of parts, motors, battery plugs, antenna wire, small metric hardware and of course batteries! Always check to see if they have a surplus area lots of other things in the world use sub "C" type ni-cads...........
  • Create New...