PandaBear

Is the rational behind running it dry that it's so exposed it'll attract dirt and grime (if it was covered in grease)? I guess it would also expel grease over other parts of the car? Exposed grease will also pickup dirt and grit to form a grinding paste... (but hey, we still lube our exposed diff balls in pancars, so that arguement gets tossed out the window!!) TA04 pinion & spur can safely be run dry, but I prefer a quick rub of wax. Keep a candle in your toolbox or use a commecial dry lube if you really like things lubed.

Fantastic luck!! Good to hear the finds are still "out there". [H] Condolences on Dad.

If you're talking about an alloy equivalent to the blue TA02 upright... does that use 1510 and 1260 bearings to hold the axle?? (this upright is also used on the XC crosscountry 4WD) If so it'll be different to the standard Hotshot knuckle which uses 2x 1150s. The TA01 uses HotshotII's red plastic knuckle (2x 1150s) is an equivalent drop-in replacement... just watch the threading on the chrome balls. Some have coarse thread vs finer thread.

Was thinking of building a TLT-1 over xmas... ended up mucking about with an Xray M18T instead. Cute thing, little 1/18th 4WD buggy - goes decently quick even on the stock electronics. Anyone got one of these too? The Monster Truck upgrade kit starting to look tempting... []

curious, what's the motor cover for a W1 look like?

Does it do that going either direction? [:$] Sounds more like a dead FET on the ESC... there's 3 banks of FETs inside, if one's dead/disconnected the motor has 1/3rd chance of getting 'stuck' unmovable in that part of the rotation. Have 3 SS5800s, they work great for me. Getting a bit old (3 yrs) now, maybe time for an upgrade... the one I was bashing with Tuesday after xmas repeatedly overheated. But it was a stinking hot day though (59degC on track surface, 38degC in shade). Novak's repair/return policy has always been fantastic for me. [:S]

A 4WD mini running "any" hot mod motor on 4-cells... runs as fast as an 6-cell M03 with a SportTuned. [] Bit more gearing flexibility that's it. If everyone's got an M03 then that's great, but if people aleady own other minis then it gets a bit hard forcing people to buy an M03 just for "cheap" racing.

Tamiya Translucent Red backed with silver ends up looking like Pactra's Burgundy, has a bit more blue than Tamiya Metallic Red. My favourite application for Translucent Red is to mist on a light coat of Translucent Silver before backing it with black - gives an interesting 'change' effect. Translucent Red is best done in thin coats, but put as many coats as you like on as it doesn't really affect the end color. I've done light mists to emptying the entire can onto 1 shell... more the better for even coverage if you don't care about weight.

Castor is a seed (vegetable!) oil. Methanol is like ethanol, can be made from fermenting sugar. Ditto nitromethane. Glow fuel doesn't depend on dino juice! []

TA04 shares its suspension with TB EvoIII, TB02, 414 and 415. TB EvoIV came out with the new "reversible" suspension which now the 415 MS now has; this can be retrofitted onto any TA04-type setup. Tamiya sells the hopup as as a kit. TA04 diff equivalent fitment to 414. The only other vaguely interchangeable parts are common bits like shocks, axles, foam bumper & screws/hardware.

Current mob of V2 (round brush at an angle) mod motors are pretty good, they go a long time between maintenance. They are not "cheap-n-nasty" but. Just be careful on TL01... mod motors need lower gearing (smaller pinion) to let them rev properly to make their serious power. Brushless is always good and I love the Novak systems.

Hullo.

Mike, YGM.

quote: Originally posted by nismospeed well the ones ive got are made by tamiya, on the pack it says TAMIYA, radio control replacement parts, part no, B1480 so it says i can post a pic id="quote">id="quote"> haha, no need... betcha its got a BLUE paper tag? [] That's courtesy of our good pals at Toy Traders (oz Tamiya distributors) but that tag also goes on a lot of 'other' stuff that don't come anywhere close from Tamiya's Shizouka factory. The stuff that Tamiya sells come on a bubble card, has an "OPxxxx" part number and the packing is red/blue/white. Unfortunately Toy Traders don't even bring these into Oz so we can't even get them if we wanted to pay the high $$$ for them... so one has to get them direct from overseas. As for the metal-shielded bearings... yeah they work fine. Heaps better than bushings so can't complain! []

I read it more like "pay us $20 or else nothing will happen"... ahh, who knows, we'll see. [:I]

quote:And are the chassis plates of the Renault Clio Williams the same as those for the Taisan Starcard Porsche 911 (993)? then I'll may get mysell a crappy one and get all the opions of my clio on it...cool! id=quote>id=quote>If memory serves the Clio Williams is a FF01S chassis - full width 180mm but just a little shorter than standard. It is not a Mini 160mm chassis. Isn't Taisan a TA02 4WD?

How about Hornet shells too, Daz? Sounds like you've got a vacforming setup?

Looks good! Would any other different wheels fit on the truck axles?

Same thing with low voltage halogen lighting, folks - probably enough UV there to get sunburn and cataracts. An interesting observation too just the other day... seems that some halogen bulbs are causing deterioration in some modern cars' headlights too - which are made from (wait for it)... Polycarbonate. Food for thought.

Yup, mica red is a darker 'cherry' tone, with less obvious particulates. It is also more translucent than other metallics so it will be affected by the undercoat. If painted over white it comes out like Shodog's (yes?), but if you try with darker backs like blue or black it'll look various varieties of red wine. Already had a "manual-authentic" mica red example, so decided to do last month's car in Metallic Red over chrome silver instead to give it an extra sparkle. Given its intended job as crowd-pleaser, it did its job well. (yess Theo!)

quote: mine's the porsche 959 paris-dakar. the body details are great but getting masking tape around them is a real task. id=quote>id=quote> We skipped the whole masking bit and just painted everything by hand. Tamiya's white and blue PC paints cover pretty well, and with about 3-4 coats no brushmarks will show. There was no benefit imho in using the airbrush, takes too long for those wide expanses. Imho Tamiya X18 SemiGlossBlack looks the best for the vents. Used Tamiya's silver PaintMarker for the bonnet bits and the tail vent's surround. Taillights used X-orange and X-red, works better than original idea of clear red/orange + silver backing. The white bit in front can be glossy, it looks fine. quote:try masking the black trimming around the windshield. Whew! id=quote>id=quote> This was actually the easiest part to paint by hand. When handpainted from the inside, the rib is the perfect brush guide for a #2 brush. quote:Fortunately these days, Tamiya lexan bodies require only one color, the rest is taken care of by the decals. id=quote>id=quote> Ugh, decals leave something to be desired and its corners can lift over time. Some bodies look better with the window frames hand painted black instead of the stickers - also makes subsequent body masking a lot easier.

quote:I found when taking action shots I kept droping the transmitter Only trouble with some digicams is that they have a HUGE delay between shutter button & actually recording the pix. Check before you buy, as it makes it very hard to capture moving stuff.

quote:...the camera car the TamCam...id=quote>id=quote>Tamcam meet CeliCam ("sillyCam"?) (Not me pins there, Chris.)

And if that ain't enough... get a kit-stock 959/Celica chassis and whack a Mini shell on it!! M0x will never ever go as fast.

ok then, croupier... Last minute chipping, that's the only way to play the wheel!!