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toybaron

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About toybaron

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    http://www.toybaron2.com
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    Tamiya Club 49

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  1. Thanks for these suggestions. I just ordered a couple of bodies that might work (including the Mears) and I actually had the rear Superchamp set up from RC channel -- playing with that now, not a direct "bolt on" but promising!
  2. another project I had in storage for a few years finally saw some light and progress...This SRB mutt has a mix of repro and vintage parts, and the focus is meant to be on the vintage Premier Designs Monoshock. The roll bar is a vintage RCH part, the sway bar is a vintage Parma set up, the front uprights are RCH as are the rear arms (I think)...The butterfly chassis is a reproduction, the wheels and tires are re-re, a few more bits here and there. Seeking advice about two things: 1/ what's the right sort of period body for this 2/ considering the rollbar rear attachment, is there something less "hacky" I might try or try to source? also grateful for any other suggestions to dial this in, ie the sway bar attachment point on the rollbar isnt awesome Thanks in advance!!!
  3. Posting a quick pic of my finished deco'd body, Tamiya magic does it again. Re-re body, removed the torsion bars, adding a generic Parma front body mount, on the shelf it goes for now...
  4. TY very much. I just grabbed one -- much appreciated!
  5. I've recently had the chance to re-visit some old RC projects -- some that I started years ago (some more than 10 years ago!)... Not sure when I started this one but it's almost ready to be considered done for me. I had a decent SRB set up and added the RC Channel rear suspension to it. I also added AYK SuperTrail shocks. My specific question is wether I still need the stock // vintage torsion bars set up as originally installed, as the rear is much too stiff. Parts seem pretty hard to find. I'm missing the M10 servo post and a servo spring. Is it the case where even the re-re version is quite dear and parts unobtanium? Finally, I'm seeking a decent to excellent body. I'm game for doing a Buggy Champ body myself (seeking a lead for one -- ) but these seem to be not readily available. I'd also consider acquiring a vintage or re-re one that's been done very well and suitable for a shelf queen --feel free to ping...
  6. Thanks everyone who responded here or directly, I've found the Avante wheel/tires I was looking for.
  7. I would be happy with anywhere from very good condition up to new condition...need a complete set of fr and rr Thanks
  8. I think you're right, likely a hi ilux wheel as that's the parts storage it was in..but I wasnt sure if this was the deep one or not.
  9. Really amazing work..I'd definitely be interested in a set of the custom parts you made if you decide to make them available...I am going to try to build one of these with an unfinished Blazer. I've gone to this link: http://www.shapeways.com/designer/simensays but the items are shown as not for sale... A freind of mine made this HO scale car for me: HO scale car is like 1/64 size so you can see I need to build one awesome job, really admire the craftmanship
  10. Hopefully my post adds to the conversation, I've gone a slightly different direction. i.e. not focused on collecting per se, but more on the reasons why the two hobbies are different, and therefore inherently have some different factors related to collecting... full disclosure: I collect both categories.... The words below were written by Pat Dennis. He is a friend of mine. He designed one of the most popular HO slotcar brands from the 1970's called TycoPro. He has some interesting insights that he's posted on a slotcar forum, I've paraphrased some of it to make it comprehensible as part of this thread: http://www.planetofspeed.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6410&start=60 His post was meant to describe the similarities and differences between real cars and HO cars. Pat has a life time of experience in both worlds. Alot of his comments hold true for a comparison between slot cars generally and R/C cars.. Here is what he says: .... the similarity between a real racecar and a slot car stop after the fact that both have four wheels and a propulsion device. An analysis of both follows: Real Racecar * An actual racecar has a functioning steering system and a decision-making on-board driver. * Is operated within the limits of adhesion in the horizontal plane through the experience (through intensive practice) and the "seat-of-the -pants" feedback. Exhaustive studies have proven that a driver who can maintain the smoothest transition of acceleration, braking and sideload G's turns consistently faster lap times. * These limits of adhesion are derived through engineering of the car - suspension control, braking design and materials, and tire technology. Additionally, aerodynamics which impart down force enters into this. * Actual race courses are typically glass-smooth, with somewhat gradual elevation changes Slot cars * A slot car follows the dictates of the slot and a remote operator that only controls the power, and is totally dependent on maintaining the guide pin/blade penetration into the slot. * There is a peculiar force, unique to slot racing that occurs when a slot car is subjected to a curved section following a straight. The front end of the car is violently jerked to one side upon entering the curve - remember that there is no lead-in to the radius, no ability for the driver to "set" the car's suspension upon entering the curve. This is what I referred to as a "spike force" acting on the guide pin/shoe. In a conventional race car this would be roughly equivalent to have the car struck on the front corner by another car at a great rate of speed at nearly right angle to the direction of travel. In an attempt to reduce the effects of this "spike", the TycoPro used a guide flag with a slight lead-in to attempt to "set" he car before that force arrived at full force. (note that the guide flag has the blade extending ahead of the pivot shaft). * Additionally, the upward force of the pickup material (spring-loaded rigid "skis or flexible contacts, braid, etc.) needed to insure electrical contact adds to the upward force of the front, lifting the guide device. * There is an additional force consideration, and that is the action/reaction of the pinion gear attempting to "climb" the crown - lifting the front of the chassis on acceleration and under power. This force is reversed upon deceleration - effectively forcing the guide flag/pin downward. This is the reason that an HO car responds so well to a short "off" to the controller approaching the curve. This is as close to "setting" the car for the curve as is possible for a slot car Note that this forward weight transfer exists in a real racecar, but is much less critical. .......................... So in the above comments, you can readily substitute the word "R/C car" for "Real Racecar".... and even though they seem to appeal to the same crowd (to a large extent they obviously do re Automotive etc) but for a significant part of the corwd in each would be passionate about arguing the merits of one or the other--which sort of pushes "value", and hence collectibility One other interesting thing, is considering where the slot car hobby and RC hobby merge: miniaturization is one part of the obvious common ground...
  11. Question about compatibility; I need D1,D2 parts for my vintage Avante runner, can I use the re-release parts? Appears so but wanted to see if anyone had confirmation. Thanks Ron
  12. My ebay user name is "thetoybaron"---all the items are VINTAGE http://www.ebay.com/...sid=p4340.l2562 Thanks for looking.... Ron
  13. Take a look in my showroom page and on ebay under seller: thetoybaron Thanks, Ron
  14. Mine recieved in great shape, well packaged and all that...like ebay feedback! All positive! Thanks, Ron
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