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As the title says - looking for a Schumacher Cat 2000 of any model and/or parts. Will be used purely for vintage racing so focus is on function rather than looking pretty on the shelf. If you have anything to offer, please send me a PM! I live in Sweden, and got Paypal ready..

Not sure if I ever wrote in this before, since the thread has been alive for a while. But for me I'd say it's several, really difficult to single out one of them.. NIB TRF211X The two pre-211X prototypes, one brand new 411X (one new built, one runner, one ex-team driver used) TRF 1991 Astute (ran at the worlds and euros)

Display only. Can't decide though..

Updates have been made, I'll do my best to try and snap a few shots tomorrow =)

Realized I have made some further work on the actual build thread car since I did this thread (all original parts); * Damper top caps * Plastic slipper centre * Gear cover * TRF springs (yellow front, orange rears) * Rear damper mount Will post a few pics this weekend if time permits. Might also add genuine aluminium ball ends (with normal nut style, unlike the Top Force evo ones), but still undecided wether or not to butcher up a used 211X just for this. Also cutting up a new unpainted body, but I'm even more undecided there...

I have quite a good stash of these (new and unused) since I've decided not to race with them anymore. Material is just too weak. Let's sort out our parts swap / interchange soon

It could be done, it all comes down to how ambitious you want to be. The hardest parts, from a purist perspective, will probably be the outdrives, the layshaft pulley, the front gearbox plastics (particularly if sticking to the cog-based belt tension setup) and possibly the drive belt. I'd say all the rest can be done, either through machining nylon or aluminium, or borrowing stuff from other cars. Small stuff that you can't spot from the outside can of course always be simplified, such as hex or square shape (outdrives + pressure plate) instead of splines, but it'll still be a ton of work. I have all parts if somebody would be ready for a serious attempt, but that's gonna be one big project. And it'll require lots and lots of Dyna Storm hardware for whoever wants to complete their replica..

Such a work of art. awesome!

I've got a build thread here, never did any on Tamiyaclub (I think?) https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=43438

Yes!

Indeed, Nimrod did one. I've got one still uncut, but until somebody else decides to have a go I'll keep it like that..

Thanks! Weight, well nothing extreme really but I still didn't expect it. Compared to my Top Force Evolution which is basically standard apart from the Custom RC rear anti-squat kit and some aluminium parts, the 411X roughly 25 grams lighter running the exact same electronics which surprised me a bit - I would've thought the opposite because of the slightly more complicated rear transmission. It's mostly the front end that's considerably lighter due to the its very simple, neat and uncluttered layout - the rear on the contrary is a bit heavier than the TF. So as a consequence, the 411X has more of its weight at the rear. Can't say it's either good or bad but running lipos which are so lightweight, I suppose it evens out the balance a bit. My first thought was to load it up with lead weights at the front to sort of make it match the weight balance of my TF but it didn't really do much, it just kept the nose down too much / excessively when jumping. So I took away most of it. I still suspect it could be a bit 'lazy' on tight indoor tracks but it remains to be seen. The only weights remaining are to balance L/R at the rear end, it's a bit too light on the rear right hand side due to the motor not being entirely centered (the belt spacer offsets it ~8mm or so). Ball diffs hold up really well so far, they're just std dyna storm diffs but with carbide balls for the gear and ceramic balls for the thrust bearing. Feels smooth with no slip. I think running a slipper saves them a bit as well, I'm not really a fan of that 'MDC' clutch but it's a piece of that cars character. Since I also have a limited amount of spare 411X belts I'll do whatever I can to ease the pain. The belt still looks like new, took a lot of care to set the tension loosely enough so that I can get away with running a belt tensioner. Not sure if it helps a lot but so far so good.. The front kick up angle is actually slightly more aggressive than the Top Force. Haven't measured but I think it's at least 5 degrees more. Rear anti-squat is either zero or the same as the Dyna Storm (got two types of suspension blocks). I would say the worst thing with the car is the complete lack of front chassis kick-up. I knew this before from talking to a few team drivers who ran this car, but experienced it myself as well. I understand completely now why they ran that bent lexan piece instead of a bumper Other notable details - way, way less slop than the Manta Ray/Top Force series of cars. Basically nothing in the front or rear suspension, and way more precise and less sloppy steering setup. It feels more like a Schumacher car from that era, than a Tamiya in that sense. I guess that won't automatically mean it'll perform any better, but it certainly doesn't hurt either its consistency or the way it responds to setup changes.

It's a Parma Tomcat. Originally made for the Lazer ZX-R back in 1992 and fits the 411X perfectly. It's what most of the team drivers used when they raced the 411X..

General - Std '2nd edition' TRF411X carbon chassis - Top Force battery mount, Nick Walker lipo X-brace - Belt tensioner added (TRF414M parts). - Electrics moved forward as much as possible, the car is just too light with lipos (lighter than the Top Force) but at the same time got more weight at the rear. Rear end - "2nd edition" rear suspension with block for each arm (early 411X's had another, really cool setup which I've learnt since I did the build thread). Aluminium mounts by Custom RC - TR-15T gearbox - TR-15T hub carriers - Top Force spur gear, re-drilled and dremelled out (really only to be able to gear a 13.5T properly, simply not possible with the std spur) - New hole drilled for upper arm - Top Force rear damper mount with some further holes - Anti-roll bar mounted on backside of bulkhead - TRF201X/re-re Egress hybrid CVDs - Std sleeved dampers Front end - Graphite design caster blocks & GPM TA02 steering knuckles - Pargu Egress steering arms - Std wider 411X arms - Mini sleeved dampers - Original TRF Manta Ray/Top Force fibreglass damper mount for short dampers - Home made anti-roll bar - TA02 CVD axles/TD4 bones hybrid CVD's So far I've only driven the car at a quite difficult astro track. Compared to my Top Force it was more stable, a lot better over the bumps and generally feels easier to drive. I usually run vintage indoors on tighter tracks so it's hard to tell if it'll feel as good there. Transmission has been really smooth, no belt wear or skipping despite the fine pitch.