67CamaroSS

I am looking to buy a F103, F103LM roller. No body front/rear wings needed, wheels and tires are a bonus but also not required. i am in the US so I would prefer a US based seller. if you have one, let me know what you want for it. thanks

The HPI Datsun 510 is a 225mm. Its also a 2-door

I have a Winger decal set that was inadvertently sent to me by MCI. If anyone wants it, pay postage from the US and its yours.

That is the HPI 1969 Camaro Body with HPI Vintage Wheels and Tires. I also have a 415 that it would look great on, but I'm in California. Any idea on shipping to the states?

Not all lexan paint dries matte. The Duratrax stuff for instance, has a semi-gloss finish and it can look a little grainy so it wouldn’t work for that application. also this way you don’t lose paint if you scrape it,.

I recently tried the boiling water method. It worked but is labor intensive. I boiled them for about 10 mins then pulled the tires of the rim, with occasional help from a medium flat head screw driver. The finish came also off the rim, which, didn't matter to me since I was painting them anyway. Only reason I even considered it was because they were HPI Vintage VTA wheels, which have become very expensive. Anything else, I would have just bought new rims.

Tamiya Polycarbonate Body Cleaner works good too. It also wont haze the body. Whatever cleaner/remover you use, make sure you try it on a scrap piece first to make sure it doesn't hurt the lexan Also for future masking, I recommend vinyl masking tape. The Tamiya stuff is good but you can also get bigger, cheaper rolls on ebay from China. Works really well and conforms nicely to curves. I usually apply it, then hit it with a little heat from a hairdryer, then press it down firmly again. That way it seals well.

Here is an easy way to do a matte hood, spoiler, etc., without having to paint it from the outside or apply a lot of masking. 1. Paint the body regularly, but don’t remove the overspray film. 2. With a new, sharp blade, trim out the area you want matted and remove the film just on those parts. Here it was the front and rear spoilers and the hood. The first pic shows the film removed there. 3. spray the exposed panels with a good matte spray for lexan, Spaz Stix and Tamiya make good ones. 4. remove the rest of the overspray film and admire your results.

Always liked the movie and when Pro-line released the body, I had to do one. This started as a Pro-Line Tough Black body that came in black shiny lexan. It was trimmed and I masked the windows and sprayed the outside with a matte clear dull coat from Spaz Stix. Bumpers painted on the outside. Also added the correct Texas plates. Its on a Slash Drag Chassis.

good choice. Good looking truck.

I think many of those "non-scale" trucks perform better but you sacrifice the scale look of the Clod and others like it. I thought the SMT10 is a good combination of both. But Ii your main goal is speed and cornering (which there is nothing wrong with) then you are probably better off with something like that Associated or something from Traxxas or Arrma. To get a Clod to perform on that level will cost you a lot more than just buying a RTR basher.

It is not geared as a crawler I never ran it with the stock brushed kit motor, but with a plain 3300kv Reedy (the ones that came with the SC10s) and a small 3s pack, it was very fast. Maybe 30-35mph? Also still had lots of torgue, as it wheelied a lot.

The SMT10 Builders Kit, essentially a slider chassis comes in black. http://www.axialracing.com/products/axi03020 I mis-spoke about the wheels. The SMT10 uses 12mm hex. Maybe you could put the stock clod hubs (B5) over the hexes if you wanted to mount clod wheels, but I'm not sure. I can check if you need me to. Those B5 parts get expensive because you have to buy the whole tree, which includes the gearbox halves, and you need 2. I bought the Jconcepts Tribute wheels which are are very nice, in that that they come with 3 different offsets options. I'm not sure what the prices in the UK would be, but here its about 100-110 USD for the jconcepts wheels and tires. But you still get a nice roller for about 300USD when all is done

Take a look at the Axial SMT10. The stock tires are too small but you can put clod sized wheels and tires on it. I have a stock Clod, and a Clodzilla II and IV and it outperforms them all, while keeping a very scale look. It is very quick and handles well.

Good find. Whoever owned it did a great job with that motor. I don’t think Parms makes RC stuff anymore so almost all Parma bodies and parts are rare and expensive now. I have one of those, but have noT opened it. I know the body cane with a separate piece for the bottom fenders but I have never seen that top with the two side windows.