speedfreak

thanks I will give it a shot

Hi guy's , been a while. I just wanted to know if any fellow MSX owners can advise me on a good reliable source for a replacement rear diff joint set. My standard kit supplied aluminium set has developed grooves (pockets) where the actual dogbone makes contact with it. I need to replace it or find an alternate reinforced plastic hop up. The problem is, I can't seem to fin it anywhere. Please....help....

Hi guys, thanks for the advice, will put it to the test, Dean76 I got the lightweights in already, manage to fit a 88 spur as well, we limited to using the sport tuned motor as supplied by the kit with 1500 NiCAD stick packs, I use a 34.5 rollout, which just gives me a 5 min runtime....I find the front of the car a bit to stiff (direct for me) under deceleration only, and understeers a bit on the tight and twist parts of the circuit, tail breaks away abit as well. We allowed to use any types of wheels, rubbers and foams....thats all the info I can give you....for now, mite just give you a better idea of what the cars doing

thanks mr pushrod, i'll try not to worry about it to much then, our tracks been very successful with cars fitted with one-ways...I have one in my MSX and works well. Just wanted to try it in thr F201.

no suggestions?......strange...thought it would be a easy asked and answer number...guess not

Hi guys I just got myself a F201.....I have been reading quite a bit about the diff's in general, and noticed that they are a problem...I see that they or most of them refer to getting a front one-way diff installed. My question is...what tamiya diff, i.e. from which car TB evo 3, 4, TA04, etc would work or can be adapted to fit in that chassis?. ...Also if anyone has good tips on drivetrain setup besides the front one-way,....thanx

Hi guys What is diff lube....? I just got some of those ceramic diff balls and the manufacturer calls for diff lube and not diff grease?. I have the tamiya diff grease and actually dont have or possibly know what diff lube is. Can anybody give me a clue to what a good lube would be?.

Thanks to all the imput guys. Its not about strategy from my point of view. I am actually talking about a few of them namely all the guys that are on top of their class i.e. the leaders all have that in common, the free drivetrain, apart from their overall experience in years and me, a rookie relatively speaking, I joined the club in December last year, participated in 5 races since then, best position, 4th A group. Best average time achieved over race distance 15.830 seconds versus their best of 14.900, I say I have a fare way to go. Overall points standings at the moment 3rd out of 19 guys in total. The advice I've been getting was very genuine and made sense overall, My first 2 races averages were about 17.200 sec's and since then improved to the 15.800 mark, I think a lot of thats got to do with the change from the evo 4 ms to the trf msx....and pure track running time. Best lap 14.930, lap record 13.900, currently fast guys getting 14.300, me 15.100. My thinking is to have all the right equip in place, eliminate all unknown variables, then take it to the track. But getting imput from you guys out there is very valuable and comforting. Those ceramic bearings and diff balls are on the way....It cost a bit but eliminates a variable. Thank you so much for the imput!.

Cool bender.....I have just ordered some ceramic bearings and diif balls for the msx, I will see what difference it makes. I was refering to a Belt drive, namely a schumacer

I will give it a try, cant seem to find the clip on the 950 bearings, You mention not to grease the unis, you mean universal joints....I will do that to, I flushed all the bearings in bezine, and used 1 drop of lite oil...I have reassembled the car and I can now literally move it by blowing on it with the shell attached. But from what I have felt and seen at the club with the old racers...their drivetrains are a lot loose!....but any suggestions are taken in and will be tried. Thanks guys!

Oh for the record, I have a TRF 415 MSX....that's the car I'm trying to get up to speed. We race on asphalt outdoor track. Using Jaco foams 35 shore wheels. I race in open stock class, std silver can johnson or mabushi with 1500 nicad's. So less friction the better I see

No...the pinion is def removed.

Hi guys, I have a suppose tricky question. How do the guys at my club get their drivetrains on their belt or shaft cars to be so free spinning?. One guy has mentioned special exspensive bearings and others generally say a lot of time and hard work....but thats all I ever get. When I say free spinning they literally spin one wheel at the rear and all the wheels keep spinning for about 5 seconds...mine stops as soon as I take my hand off it!Can just see what advantage they have with that less friction.....any suggestions [:^)]

thanks guys, got the xl. sheets and more.

Does anybody know what combination suspension blocks will give me rear toe of 1 degree and 1,5 degree.

tried that,there are one or two but they wont ship to south africa and prob is when the bid ends there its normally the middle of the night down here..[V] thanks....

Yep! thats what I have now, not good enough, want the real thing. So no idea where to get one hey best I have seen is $500. Thanks Djtheo

Hi Guy's Any idea on which dyno to get....Fantom, Robitronic. Cant seem to find others, are there?. Really want to get one for myself. Any links to good deals please!. thanks

Hi guys, and boff's Must apologise for not replying, we had a race meeting yesterday, my first, be it. For the record, class entered, open stock, (any johnson or mabushi motor in any chasis. with 4 door shell). 1st heat started 6 out of 6 finished 3rd. 2nd heat started 1 out of 5 finished 2nd. finals 2nd out of 5, finished 4th. Quite disappointed with myself, i.e. the finals, I caught the leader on lap 8, passed him and led for another 6 laps, then was passed by the guy started 3rd, took myself out on the last lap!, damm! but rewarded with driver of the day!. I would have been much happier with 2nd place rather than driver of the day. Guys ...thanks for the imput, your comments and suggestions will be tested. Raemin, DJTheo......great debate...outstanding, I will try various ops and keep you guys posted, for now i need to get more power out of them motors. Raoul, thats 1 very sorted out excel sheet, what a legend! I will try and make use of it. thanks buddy.

Well guys, I have taken them for their real dyno runs.... On average all seem to be above their std's, rpm lowest 15400, highest 16150 torque lowest 80nmm, highest 98 nmm power, 65, highest 75 watts. thanks for replies......be it negative or positive... key thing is to remember...SOME OF uS ARE STILL LEARNING!....

Hi guys and boff's As requested not so long ago, the "know how" on breaking in stock motors, i.e. johnsons and mabushi's. Terry.sc, Type49rs and Sammy all suggested similar technics and I now have results. Motor no. 1 Johnson. silver can. (dyno pulse run in for 30 mins.) Tested at 7.0 volts max rpm; 16674 amps: 1.3 max amps 1.48@ 6.94V (16254 rpm) No. 2 Johnson silver can (water dunking for 4 sec's) Tested at 7.0 Volts max rpm; 16101 amps: 1.4 max amps 1.73@ 6.76V (15400 rpm) No. 3 Mabushi silver (water dunking for 4 sec's) Tested at 7.0 Volts max rpm; 16563 amps: 1.3 max amps 1.65@ 6.75V (15889 rpm) No. 4 Johnson dull silver can (water dunking for 4 sec's) Tested at 7.0 Volts max rpm; 16382 amps: 1.2 max amps 1.41@ 6.76V (16198 rpm) No. 4 Mabushi silver (metal polishing with slave drive) Tested at 7.0 Volts max rpm; 16659 amps: 1.61 max amps 1.81@ 6.75V (16382 rpm) thats all i've done so far, I am quite pleased with the results but still a bit off pace.....compared to most of the guys at the club, but I'm sure will get there. Based on the above data, does anybody know if its possible to calculate the torque?. We have a race this coming weekend, in which I will be particapting. I tend to use 3 different motors for each heat, fastest for the final of course. Would you guys agree to using a rollout not exceeding approx. 43. Thanks once again...looking forward to your coments!

Willychang, its a APS Dyno-charge 3309, its more of a charger than a dyno...will give you all the basics excl. torque!

Thanks to Sammy, Type49rs, Sosidge (its ok, you too can spill the beans) and especially Terry.sc. I will def. be trying your methods and will keep you posted! I have a dyno on the way, I will be able to check the results on different running in methods.

Hi guys and boff's For all the experts out there, I am in need of a good lesson. Guess its been debated over and over again, but i cant seem to find any discussions on this matter, i.e. motor running in, mainly for johnsons 2 slot or mabushi's. I just joined the local club here and raced in what we call here the open class which requires use of these motors. The guys were quite fast compared to me and it was not gearing at all, rollouts were right up there with theirs. They getting on average 16 to 18 thousand rpm out of their motors, they say its all in the running in phase and cant be done afterwards, I really need some advise on this matter, I heard of water and grinding paste, but what really works?....direction PLEASE

guess not!