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Rich_8717

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About Rich_8717

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  • Birthday 06/17/1987

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  1. If you aren't going to run it I don't see the point in making it look like the original that you already have sat on the shelf? That doesn't make any sense to me. If you are going to run it to have the experience of driving one without the guilt of ruining an original then it makes a lot more sense to want it to look as close to 'right' as you can. Also I probably don't need to tell you but it's amazing how quickly the extra little bits and pieces add up once you start converting it. I made a re-re top force into an evo replica so I could run one (I have an original as well that I don't want to spoil) and the titanium screws and grey tie rod ends alone cost me about £50 and that's if you can even find any as I'm sure now loads of people will be having the same thoughts as you and hunting down the same parts.
  2. Without making this thread about Brexit what am I missing here? Tamiya products aren't made anywhere in Europe as far as I know so why would leaving the EU make any difference to the prices? If you are talking about people buying their kits from other European countries just because it was slightly cheaper than buying them from UK dealers then I say that's tough luck and I guess it's going to be time for people to invest all that money they saved back into their own economy.
  3. In reality, they are no better, and in a lot of cases they are actually worse, but that's not really the point for a lot of us, if it was all about performance we wouldn't be buying Tamiya kits at all, we would probably be bashing an associated or schumacher buggy instead. I can see your point here but I would say that most of the (expensive) re-release buggies are being bought by people who wanted them as kids but had no chance of owning them, as kids if we were lucky enough to get one of the original kits how many of us would have left it NIB as an 'investment'? I know that I certainly wouldn't have. Now if I could find and buy an original NIB Egress or TFE kit I wouldn't want to build and run it either as I would see that as not only a shame, but financially a stupid idea as I would immediately lose half of my money as soon as I broke the first blister pack, that's why the re-re kits make so much sense, sure they are still expensive but relative to the original kits they are cheap, and you don't have any guilt in building and running it. Basically they are a second chance to have the experience of owning and running something that your childhood self had no chance of doing, or for the lucky few, re-living that experience again. Obviously everyone see's the hobby differently and I know that many guys get more joy out of keeping a kit NIB and just looking at it now and again and that is fine. As for those that just buy these kits to make money, I personally don't see them as wise investments unless you are going to watch the market like a hawk or buy up tons of stock. Those guys are going to have to store the kits for a good few years before they start making any real money and lets all be honest, in 20-30 years when most of us will be dead or over it, there probably won't be any value left in them at all or the market will be so saturated with people selling up that the prices will drop. Of course I do agree with you that if you are going to buy an Egress for your 9 year old and let them launch it off a ramp then you would be much better with a cheaper kit, but end of the day, people can do what they like with their own money.
  4. They will all be fine if you aren't going to be stuffing them into static objects at full throttle or trying to run them on brushless 3s systems. I 'bashed' an original top force for years and usually run an evo spec re-re top force these days and the only parts that I've ever broken are the front uprights and the ball diff plates, both of which are easily found parts. The VQS should be equally sturdy out of the box but I would be worried about finding spares for it down the line as I believe it's a limited run kit and any original parts you might be able to find are of no use due to their age. The Egress is better in some areas than the top force but worse in others, if you do break something it will be a lot harder and usually cost more than the top force to repair but in genral it's no better or worse for its reliability. Due to the sheer amount of 3rd party 'hop ups' for the DF01 chassis I would go for the Top Force myself as almost every part you might end up breaking has a stronger replacement part available, also, if you build it properly it doesn't need any regular maintenance at all other than keeping the driveshafts/hubs clean.
  5. I bought an egress not a top force evo, maybe read my post properly? My point is that the reason this re-re exists at all is that people have kept banging on about it for years, when they could easily have just built a top force to the exact same spec as what has just been released. Back when the original evo came out you couldn't buy all the proper evo parts separately to make one, that's what made it special, now you can, so it isn't.
  6. ModelsportUK have them on their site, I 'bought' one yesterday for £460 although the expected delivery date is currently set at June 1st... Yep, just going by that press release photo, the turnbuckles are different to the original as well, they just look to be the black ones that came with the re-re carbon chassis set, shocks are attached with screws on the a-arms instead of ball connectors and the springs are different. The blurb does say it comes with the aluminium ball diffs which is good if true as they are probably the hardest original evo part to find and it also says you have the option of fitting the front 1-way idle gear so that is also included. To be nit-picky, the upper chassis deck has different writing on it to both the original evo, and the re-re set and the whole chassis set appears to be the shiney carbon version, were as the the original had matte carbon upper and lower decks and the shock towers were actually still just frp. It's basically going to just be a re-re top force with all the existing re-re hopups included in the box +evo decals/wheels and (apparently) the ali ball diffs, not that it's a bad thing, but it's definitely not exactly the same as the original evo, still for the price I would probably still buy one if I hadn't already built an evo spec re-re a couple of years ago.
  7. It was posted on the Tamiya blog last week; https://tamiyablog.com/2021/01/new-production-batch-of-tamiya-58583-egress-2013/ Quick edit just incase anyone knows, Is the evo the exact same spec as the original? Just wondering because a few bits on it don't look quite right in the photos, does anyone know if it has titanium screws and the correct evo ball diffs?
  8. I would join a club if there was a local one with a decent track but I have no interest in putting £1000's into racing round a makeshift track in a random town hall that I have to drive 2 hours to. If I was going to race I would prefer a stock class of some sort, maybe something like everyone uses the same tyres/motors/batteries but outside of that I have no interest. For me the ideal club would be a paid membership that gives you access to a private track at any time and on any day and you can run whatever you like. An old school off-road track would be my preference (dirt/gravel with berms and small jumps) but I would be fine with grass/astro or even a smooth on-road surface as well as long as I could run a buggy on it. Maybe have a couple of organised meets twice a month with fun competitions (like time attacks or light hearted races) The real appeal of a club for me would just be somewhere to run my cars without the worry of annoying the public and somewhere to chat and meet other people and watch their cars run. I envy the local boating clubs that just meet up and sail their latest build and just enjoy the craft side of the hobby... no prejudice, no overly competitive attitudes or being looked down on for not having the 'right gear'. Unfortunately I don't think there is enough demand these days for that sort of thing or I would have made an effort to set one up myself. The cost these days to build a track and maintain a club house for only a handful of people to use just wouldn't be worth it.
  9. My guess would be that a parent probably complained that it was putting their toddler in danger as they rode their bike with stablisers round the skate park whilst in turn preventing the teenagers from using it properly. I used to ride BMX when I was younger and there was almost always small children riding their bikes in the skatepark whilst their parents sat watching and then telling us off for nearly crashing into them. I know these things are funded by the public and are for public use but some people just don't have common sense. To be honest though, I would have been a bit annoyed myself if I had to avoid running into an R/C car in a skatepark but running them round a BMX track it's not so bad as long as it's not flying through the air and hitting people. We used to run our cars on our local BMX track between riding our bikes on it but eventually it got re-furbished to be one of the national tracks and it ended up fenced off so we couldn't use it anymore. I'll add that a comment further up has reminded me of something that happened to me a couple of years ago.... These days the only place I can really run my cars is on a big gravel overflow car park at my local park, it is almost always shut off to cars and it's always empty so we run around on it regularly and have never been told to leave. For the record It's about the size of a football field and is in a large park that is mostly grass and has well maintained foot paths (ideal you would think for riding a bike on...). One day me and my brother were running our cars on it alone when a young family pulled up and decided they were going to teach their toddler how to ride a bike right slap bang in the middle of it, baring in mind this is a sandy/gravel surface that isn't going to be kind to anyone falling over on it. They then proceeded to glare at us as we ran the cars around the perimeter until we eventually decided to keep them in one third until the batteries were spent and we packed up and left. Of course it's a public space and they are just as entitled to use it as we are, but from our perspective if we turn up and someone is using it (some people do workout routines on it for example) we will wait until they are done before running the cars. Live and let live you could say, unfortunately some people don't see it that way. As for OP, I can only suggest you write a letter to the council saying you accept the new rules but request that they acknowledge you also pay council tax and would like them to suggest an alternative location for you to run your cars.
  10. I think a lot of the 'issues' we read about on here stem from the fact that TamiyaClub is purely about the R/C side of Tamiya when in reality the R/C stuff isn't really their main business focus in the rest of the the world nowadays. In most countries Tamiya are known for their detailed static models or their consumables (paint, glue etc) and it appears in the east they are most popular for the mini 4wd racing scene which pretty much doesn't exist in Europe. Basically I feel that what we want as nostalgic r/c enthusiasts doesn't appear to match what Tamiya want to be known for in the modern day, or at least they think it's not the best way for them to make the business successful in the future and that has created a dis-connect between Tamiya and their loyal r/c fans. From their point of view, why focus on making a few middle aged men happy with a limited number of large, expensive kits when they can sell higher volumes of smaller ones to a younger generation? If we are honest Tamiya haven't made much effort to appeal or relate to the western world for the last 20 years, they are very stubborn in terms of their R/C technology (refusing to adapt to lipo for example) and it shows in their lack luster kits we've seen over the past few years (endless bland TT02 based cars). They very rarely innovate in the r/c world anymore they choose to play it safe, and when they do innovate (dual rider for example) it's too much directed to the Japanese market for any of us to want it. The other problem is that R/C as whole has moved on from where it was when Tamiya originally started making the kits we all love and they haven't adapted. They had to decide if they we going to go the aggressive 'basher' route to compete with brands like Traxxas and HPI or go back to their roots and make super detailed scale models that can be driven, unfortunately they have ended up somewhere in the middle leaving no one happy, their scale r/c models are boring, their bashing kits are too fragile and all that's left are the few die hard enthusiasts waiting on re-releases of kits from 30 years ago. Another way to look at it, if your 12 year old self was able to travel into the future and went into a hobby shop to choose their first r/c car today, what are the chances you would pick a modern day Tamiya kit?... the top 5 best selling Tamiya kits this year are all re-releases.....
  11. Nice job, it looks great with the yellow wheels.
  12. I ran an old '8.5t' hobbywing brushless motor in my original top force for years with no issues at all, not sure of the KV rating but it will have been around 4000 I think. I've since retired that and now run an evo spec re-release top force with the Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5t, my brother runs the same motor in his stock Top Force as well, we both run the speed tuned gear set (66t spur with 25t steel pinion) and use 2s lipos although he has run a 3s in his before and we haven't had any drive train problems except I shredded the splines off a couple of the steel diff plates - I put this down to poor quality re-re parts because I since put new old stock diff plates on and it's been fine ever since. We just run the cars on short grass and gravel and mostly run at full throttle, we aren't constantly on and off throttle or doing massive jumps but I wouldn't want to jump a top force anyway because of the weak rear shock tower. I also have a DF01 chassis speed runner which has geared diffs and the speed tuned gear set and I have a 3.5t Team Wave brushless motor in that which has some crazy high KV rating, the only issue I have at the moment is that it keeps sending the tyres into orbit.
  13. I bought my first house last year and can fully relate to what you describe. Several times I've had a 'clear out' of things that I enjoy owning but can't really justify having money tied up in especially when I was paying money out every month on rent whilst trying to save a deposit. Some I now regret and wish I had kept, some I'm not really bothered about. The advice I will give you is to ask yourself why you bought them in the first place, was it on a whim or was it nostalgia? What are you going to do with it if you keep it? Will you eventually be able to display it or is it just going to sit in a box forever? If you don't have any real attachment to them then just sell them on but don't under sell, as long as you get what they are worth then you are less likely to regret it. Another point I'll make is that you may be looking forward to buying your first house but at the end of the day when you get the keys it's just going to be an empty building, what makes it your house is having things you enjoy inside of it and you might regret having sold all your models when you finally move in and want them back - be aware that you probably won't be able to afford them for a while unless you buy a brand new house as all houses need some work and it's crazy how expensive silly things are like paint and curtains. There are still a few cars I would really love to own but now I can't justify spending 500 on a new model when I could replace some double glazing or buy a piece of furniture instead. I sold pretty much all my models I had when I was younger but I have managed to slowly rebuild a small collection over the last few years whilst I was saving a deposit. I now second guess every purchase and have only ended up with cars I really want. I think the main danger with this hobby is that people get too caught up buying the newest thing or just for the sake of having the 'whole set' and then you end up with tons of cars you don't really cherish but aren't worth selling on either. tldr; keep what you really love and will enjoy owning and sell the rest.
  14. I have an old TF body on a DF01 chassis (blazing star) that I've built as a speed runner. I had to trim the plastic aerial tube holder down flush for clearance but other than that it fits fine using the original rear body mount. I still have the front end on my shell so I've just put a large body pin in the front body mount to trap the shell down plus a bit of velcro for now until I work something better out. With some trimming you can make a top force upper chassis deck fit on the bathtub chassis and then you can use the proper top force front mount but you will need some of the J-parts tree to do it, plus the upper deck which aren't that commonly sold individually. The little humps are there because the shell is supposed to fit snugly against the front gear box casing and those allow clearance for the screws.
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