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Rich_8717

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About Rich_8717

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  • Birthday 06/17/1987

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  1. I ran an old '8.5t' hobbywing brushless motor in my original top force for years with no issues at all, not sure of the KV rating but it will have been around 4000 I think. I've since retired that and now run an evo spec re-release top force with the Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5t, my brother runs the same motor in his stock Top Force as well, we both run the speed tuned gear set (66t spur with 25t steel pinion) and use 2s lipos although he has run a 3s in his before and we haven't had any drive train problems except I shredded the splines off a couple of the steel diff plates - I put this down to poor quality re-re parts because I since put new old stock diff plates on and it's been fine ever since. We just run the cars on short grass and gravel and mostly run at full throttle, we aren't constantly on and off throttle or doing massive jumps but I wouldn't want to jump a top force anyway because of the weak rear shock tower. I also have a DF01 chassis speed runner which has geared diffs and the speed tuned gear set and I have a 3.5t Team Wave brushless motor in that which has some crazy high KV rating, the only issue I have at the moment is that it keeps sending the tyres into orbit.
  2. I bought my first house last year and can fully relate to what you describe. Several times I've had a 'clear out' of things that I enjoy owning but can't really justify having money tied up in especially when I was paying money out every month on rent whilst trying to save a deposit. Some I now regret and wish I had kept, some I'm not really bothered about. The advice I will give you is to ask yourself why you bought them in the first place, was it on a whim or was it nostalgia? What are you going to do with it if you keep it? Will you eventually be able to display it or is it just going to sit in a box forever? If you don't have any real attachment to them then just sell them on but don't under sell, as long as you get what they are worth then you are less likely to regret it. Another point I'll make is that you may be looking forward to buying your first house but at the end of the day when you get the keys it's just going to be an empty building, what makes it your house is having things you enjoy inside of it and you might regret having sold all your models when you finally move in and want them back - be aware that you probably won't be able to afford them for a while unless you buy a brand new house as all houses need some work and it's crazy how expensive silly things are like paint and curtains. There are still a few cars I would really love to own but now I can't justify spending 500 on a new model when I could replace some double glazing or buy a piece of furniture instead. I sold pretty much all my models I had when I was younger but I have managed to slowly rebuild a small collection over the last few years whilst I was saving a deposit. I now second guess every purchase and have only ended up with cars I really want. I think the main danger with this hobby is that people get too caught up buying the newest thing or just for the sake of having the 'whole set' and then you end up with tons of cars you don't really cherish but aren't worth selling on either. tldr; keep what you really love and will enjoy owning and sell the rest.
  3. I have an old TF body on a DF01 chassis (blazing star) that I've built as a speed runner. I had to trim the plastic aerial tube holder down flush for clearance but other than that it fits fine using the original rear body mount. I still have the front end on my shell so I've just put a large body pin in the front body mount to trap the shell down plus a bit of velcro for now until I work something better out. With some trimming you can make a top force upper chassis deck fit on the bathtub chassis and then you can use the proper top force front mount but you will need some of the J-parts tree to do it, plus the upper deck which aren't that commonly sold individually. The little humps are there because the shell is supposed to fit snugly against the front gear box casing and those allow clearance for the screws.
  4. The manual says its PS16 Metallic Blue which is the lighter shade, not sure what paint code Avante uses but I would guess that its the same one.
  5. In case you haven't seen, Tamiya have just announced a re-re Terra Scorcher so no doubt there will be plenty of kits split and sold on ebay once they are available. You will be able to get a genuine body set easily.
  6. You are always going to have one left over because it doesn't need 8. On my non-evo Top Force I did 32 rear, 28 front, 42 for the steering and it leaves you with a 38 for the middle steering linkage if you want to bother (you can never get a spanner on it to adjust it anyway so it's almost pointless but the EVO does have an adjustable one). (I personally used my spare pair of 38's as steering linkages on another bathtub chassis DF01 I have) The difference is that the standard Top Force manual tells you to use the outer holes on the front shock mounts and the middle hole on the rear for the tie rods where as the EVO manual tells you to use the inner most rear hole and the top middle front hole, therefore the EVO tie rods can be that bit longer. If you want it close to EVO spec I would put the 42's on the steering, then use the 38's in the rear and 32's in the front whilst moving the ball connectors inboard, then just stick the 28's in your tool box.
  7. Suede your truck looks really good, I have never been a fan of these because of the narrow track width but with the wider a-arms it looks awesome. Could you post a few more chassis pictures please? I'm assuming you have just used DF01 parts to widen the track? Do these use the short chassis tub? I'm interested in building one myself now. Thanks.
  8. I went to deans years ago after constantly melting the tamiya connectors together, I bought a massive bulk pack of them so just put them on everything.... I have only just started to run out but probably won't change now. They are easy to solder on and the newer ones with the 'grip' part are easy to use.
  9. Nice, now's the time to grab some hi-caps whilst they are easy to get if your budget allows.
  10. For those that haven't seen, there are a couple of photos of these on the official Tamiya Blog page. I have to say they don't look that impressive, it's also interesting that the turnbuckles are different from the original Evo ones and the ball connectors are still just the standard 5mm ones where as from the original picture posted in this thread I expected a full set of 6mm ones...
  11. I honestly don't know if they ever sold a set with evolution written on it separately but it doesn't really make sense to ever sell it like that unless you can buy every other evo part separately as well (including the body sets and wheels which I don't think they ever sold). I have a re-release top force with everything 'evolution' on it except titanium screws and the correct diffs, it even has orange wheels and a replica evo shell, (I built it so I could have an 'evo runner' without feeling guilty about using it), most people would assume it's a real evo at first glance but, although I'm excited to get the carbon chassiis set for it, I still don't want it to say evolution on the top deck because it's not a proper one. I have to admit it's interesting to me that they have now released most of the Evo parts for the re-re Top Force but in limited numbers. We can effectively build a replica evolution from brand new parts but only if you've been lucky enough to snag all the bits when they came around. It would have made more sense to me to have put all those parts into a limited run of 'evolution spec' top force kits so the original Evo owners are happy that their models keep their value and the people who want an Evo re-release get mostly what they want instead of being dissapointed when they manage to get a couple of the parts but miss out on the others. Here's a pic of my replica next to my original one,
  12. I actually prefer it this way as it stops people trying to sell off re-re evo replicas as original evos. It's still a genuine Tamiya carbon chassis set and it wouldn't be right to stick an evolution branded top deck on a car that doesn't have all the other evo parts anyway.
  13. The df03 is a great buggy and spares are still easily available although aftermarket parts tend to be quite expensive for some reason. I would recommend universal shafts for it and the slipper clutch but the clutch alone is about 50 quid if you can find one. - fortunately the base kit tends to be quite cheap so it balances out. The downside to it is that the chassis tub is very small so putting modern electronics such as brushless systems and lipo batteries can be a bit of a pain to get them to fit. In terms of bashing it's a perfect chassis really, its got good ground clearance if you want to run it off road but it can be setup for hard surfaces easily enough as well. I've never owned or driven the a DB01 but I did look at getting one for a while, spares seem to be a bit less easy to get hold of and if you are just gonna be bashing it about then belts aren't always a good idea as they tend to need more maintenance than having a propshaft. Whatever you decide to buy, If you put decent electronics in it, it will easily keep up with a rustler, the 4wd alone gives you an advantage if you are on loose surfaces. I sold my old DF03 MS to my brother and he has put a 5.5t brushless system and even used a 3cell lipo in it and it flys with no problems.
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