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About Rich_8717

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  • Birthday 06/17/1987

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  1. Nice, now's the time to grab some hi-caps whilst they are easy to get if your budget allows.
  2. For those that haven't seen, there are a couple of photos of these on the official Tamiya Blog page. I have to say they don't look that impressive, it's also interesting that the turnbuckles are different from the original Evo ones and the ball connectors are still just the standard 5mm ones where as from the original picture posted in this thread I expected a full set of 6mm ones...
  3. I honestly don't know if they ever sold a set with evolution written on it separately but it doesn't really make sense to ever sell it like that unless you can buy every other evo part separately as well (including the body sets and wheels which I don't think they ever sold). I have a re-release top force with everything 'evolution' on it except titanium screws and the correct diffs, it even has orange wheels and a replica evo shell, (I built it so I could have an 'evo runner' without feeling guilty about using it), most people would assume it's a real evo at first glance but, although I'm excited to get the carbon chassiis set for it, I still don't want it to say evolution on the top deck because it's not a proper one. I have to admit it's interesting to me that they have now released most of the Evo parts for the re-re Top Force but in limited numbers. We can effectively build a replica evolution from brand new parts but only if you've been lucky enough to snag all the bits when they came around. It would have made more sense to me to have put all those parts into a limited run of 'evolution spec' top force kits so the original Evo owners are happy that their models keep their value and the people who want an Evo re-release get mostly what they want instead of being dissapointed when they manage to get a couple of the parts but miss out on the others. Here's a pic of my replica next to my original one,
  4. I actually prefer it this way as it stops people trying to sell off re-re evo replicas as original evos. It's still a genuine Tamiya carbon chassis set and it wouldn't be right to stick an evolution branded top deck on a car that doesn't have all the other evo parts anyway.
  5. The df03 is a great buggy and spares are still easily available although aftermarket parts tend to be quite expensive for some reason. I would recommend universal shafts for it and the slipper clutch but the clutch alone is about 50 quid if you can find one. - fortunately the base kit tends to be quite cheap so it balances out. The downside to it is that the chassis tub is very small so putting modern electronics such as brushless systems and lipo batteries can be a bit of a pain to get them to fit. In terms of bashing it's a perfect chassis really, its got good ground clearance if you want to run it off road but it can be setup for hard surfaces easily enough as well. I've never owned or driven the a DB01 but I did look at getting one for a while, spares seem to be a bit less easy to get hold of and if you are just gonna be bashing it about then belts aren't always a good idea as they tend to need more maintenance than having a propshaft. Whatever you decide to buy, If you put decent electronics in it, it will easily keep up with a rustler, the 4wd alone gives you an advantage if you are on loose surfaces. I sold my old DF03 MS to my brother and he has put a 5.5t brushless system and even used a 3cell lipo in it and it flys with no problems.
  6. Haha yeh, too right, although for £150 quid I would expect them to come on a silver platter. I was hoping that the hi-caps and now the chassis plates were still being produced but kept back possibly for an evo re-release, and releasing them to be sold separately was a bit of an after thought so they just bagged them up and made a few sets available but you never know these days with Tamiya.
  7. Yep probably going to be same as the re-re hi-caps (I wish I had bought more sets when I had the chance) I've emailed Tony through ebay earlier so just going to wait and see what happens, I want to know the full price first before committing as I don't really need them, but it's just nice to have proper tamiya bits.
  8. I'd like one of these for my re-re evo replica, its got everything on it so far except the proper evo diffs and titanium screws, I have a 3rd party carbon chassis atm but this would finish it off nicely. I just hope they make a decent amount and that they don't all get poached and marked up.
  9. The spire spike tyres were discontinued a while ago and have been superseded by the square spike ones. I don't know why they would be any better really as they are almost identical but the squares do seem slightly more wear resistant compared to the spires and under heavy load I can imagine the spires probably 'bend' more where as the squares are more sturdy so they probably offer better grip. I've personally spent months looking for a new set of spire spikes for my original evo and have only managed to find a half decent used set. I do have a brand new set of fronts I bought ages ago but the rears very rarely come up for sale and when they do people ask silly money.
  10. Is the ta03 diff gear a smaller diameter than the original one or is it just an illusion in those pictures?
  11. What annoys me is when the car is listed as 'rare' and 'vintage' but it's clearly a re-re or even an XB model, this is especially common with Hornets, and they are still asking £100+ when you can still easily pick the kit up NIB for about £70. Some models get re-listed time and time again, don't sell, the price drops about 20 quid, still doesn't sell, so they take it off and re-list it about 6 months later for £50 more than before... I also see non-tamiya models listed as tamiyas a lot, obviously non of us will fall for it, but it's annoying to see people who don't have a clue what they are selling asking top money for tat. The problem is that when ebay first came about it was like a car boot sale online, and old r/c's weren't popular cos us lot were the ones getting rid of them, now it's seen more as the main place to get specialist things you can't easily find anywhere else, so people can pretty much ask what they like.
  12. Hi, Check the steering first if you haven't already, make sure nothing is loose or bent and that it's centered, something could also be binding up meaning it doesn't always center all the way back, especially if you have a weaker servo - just take all moving parts off and grease them up. If that all checks out it could be the diffs, I've never built one honestly but usually if something is broken or loose in a diff it would be putting more power to one wheel than the other causing it to veer off. You would have to remove it to check and maybe rebuild it. Edit - A quick way to suss a diff problem would be to hold the car in the air and give it some throttle and watch what the wheels do, if they all spin and stop equally then there is a good chance they're fine, but if one of the wheels spins less than the others or for longer than the others once off throttle you need check them out.
  13. Looks great, nice work!
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