kalsh
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Everything posted by kalsh
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tamiya have definately shut them down which is a shame (I had confirmation from a well known seller) which is a real shame. Perhaps as someone suggested the vector files can be sold and leave it to individuals to find people to print them at their own risk. I like most people understand the copyright piece but if Tamiya are not going to reproduce the decals at all they are actually shooting themselves in the foot as Tamiya will remain more popular if people have the ability to refresh their vehicles. In the real car market producers other than the manufacturers produce parts to keep older cars on the road long after the manufacturers have stop making parts. I do wonder if Tamiya will try and shut down the decals that are offered via the TC site?? let's just hope not. I think it is important not to add any links to any sits or sellers to make it a little harder for Tamiya to track sellers down - the beauty of the PM part of TC used to share information without broadcasting it.
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I have just noticed that the quality repro decals appear to have dissappeared off the face of the earth so to speak. Does anyone know what is going on?? Are Tamiya club decals still available? Is Mr Tamiya upset?? A sad day if these guys have been shut down
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http://cgi.ebay.com/18088041-Tamiya-Sand-S...=item519949a3b4 I didn't realise they were doing these - two puchasers snapped up all 10. A bit pricey really.
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great cleanup - how did you get the gears and gearbox so clean??? You can get decals dirt cheap for this model still.
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are you sure that the Rising Fighter is a DT01? I always thought it was more like a hornet - the chassis is definately not the same as the Fighter Buggy and Mad Bull from the pics I have seen. I dont have a Rising Fighter so could be wrong. My boys have the fighter buggies - they are all but indestructable apart from the body - great fun for them edit (after TA Mark comment below) - I also have a mad bull and Rookie Rabbit and a spare set of full radio gear and cover for the rookie rabbit (will convert a Fighter Buggy one day when I can get some decals made - I have a scan from a fellow TC member)
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Can someone tell me if the rerelease arms fit the origibnal scorcher front ends so I can use the later arms with the larger ball races?
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Astute lovers may have to look away now!
kalsh replied to Wez-li's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
get youself a Mad Cap and build yourself a works replica astute http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=94 -
Anything wrong with the log procedure to the forum ?
kalsh replied to Swarm's topic in Tamiyaclub Rules and Site Usage
I to have to sign back in constantly to the forums page but not to my showrrom page. I am actually finding this site more and more annoying as it often appears to have problems with various pages not opening especially the forums. I think there is a server problem but I am no expert on such matters but it definately is not a problem at my end because all other sites I visit are working fine. I hope someone fixes this up as I enjoy this site. cheers -
Can anyone tell me anthing about the ESC K-80TURBO.R Power Mosfet II by Kitts. i.e what brushed motor it can handle. thanks.
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Could someone please tell me the rim width and diameter of the wheels for teh NDF-01. thanks Kelvin
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I picked up a couple of pairs of Serpent 1/8th onroad front wheels and foam tires (preglued) with the intention to try and make a conversion to fit them to a TGX which are impossible to find foam tires for. The Serpent ones are about the right diameter and width - I might shave a few mm off the ouitside edge to reduce the width depending on how wide the fitting ends up). A tamiya 12mm hex fits the rear of them snuggly but I would need to dremel a little more depth into them to change the offset. I would then get something turned up to fill the larger axle whole and use CRP wheel extenders to fit them. Has anyone else tried to complete a similar modification to this by this method or used anotehr method. I am actually not sure how serpent wheel actually fitted their own wheel axles so if anyone can point me to a site that shows this or a site that sells the fittings, or has a better idea please share it with me. many thanks Kelvin
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I have a new Big Wig chassis for sale - $35US. Postage additional and I only charge what my Post Office charges me. Location is New Zealand. I haven't included a picture but will email one to anyone who is genuinely interested in purchasing.
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I have a second hand Kyosho Hot Trick chassi for sale with belt drive conversion and universal joints up front. No electrics at all in it now. See my trade room page please. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp...277&id=9441
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Thanks Justin - very helpful. I am a little confused over this system and what receivers to add to it because the hack module appears to be DSSS and all the other receivers appear to be DSSS V2. It comes with a CR8D which now appears to be a DSSS V2? does anyone know?
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Hi all I have been reading s little bit about this conversion for old radio gear. What I would like to know is will this convert the really old transmitters, the likes of Acoms Techniplus AP201, Futabu Attack T2DR or TE2R, Technisport AW-27, Acoms 227 etc or are they simply too old? I read that you need to find the PPM signal along with a positive and negative connection.(the last two would be easy I guess). Has anyone here successfully converted old radio gear like these? If so how does one find the PPM signal? I also found this PPM System There are several data encoding/decoding systems on the market today. The older one is PPM (Pulse Position Modulation). That's just the way the data is encoded/decoded, since the RF carrier is often FM modulated on all systems. The PPM encoding system consists of a data frame containing a synchronising pulse followed by a number of shorter pulses equal to the number of channels. The frame duration is about 20mS, which means the data is being send at a frequency of about 50Hz. The transmitter encoder circuit reads each control potentiometer's value and switch's position sequentially, converting each value to a pulse width. The width of each pulse corresponds to the respective Servo position. A control in neutral position gives a pulse of 1.5mS and in the end position may be either 1 or 2mS depending on which way the control has been moved.
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Tamiya PIAA and Taisan Porsche Stickers
kalsh replied to Panther's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Check the manuals on this site - I am sure they are there. -
Hi All I picked this up recently and would like to know exactly what Optima it is. As you will see it was very dirty but afetr a clean up which I know is not perfect it looks a lot better. It has a belt drive and universals up front. I know very little about these so downloaded a Salute Manaual given that is the body on it. I also picked up another one which definately looks like an Salute which is also in my showroom. photos in my showroom of the Hot Trick chassis are here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...=03032011073559
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Mike(Renco5012) confirms Del is OK (he had just spoken to him on the phone) which is good news and Mike has family in Christchurch who are all good also. Del is in a place which was hit hard - no power or running water - a lot of people have gone away out of town until services are restored. He is still running his cars somehow...lol.
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I'll ask Renco512 as he is good friends with him. Fortunately like Bluefoot we are in Auckland which is in the North Island which is probably about 1000+ kilometers away. The impact on New Zealand is huge and a very sad event so far. Fortunately I dont know nayone who is dead or missing and I lived in Dunedin for 30 years which is about 350 kilometers South of Christchurch and I frequented Christchurch often and still have a lot of people I know there.
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http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...52&id=12393 this is the solution from Mud-Plugger
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I think as long as a member has more photo's/ posts relating to RC stuff the odd non RC thing should be OK...I actually like to see how the Comet is progressing and SCollins is a long term TC member and has inspired many a RC collector/fabricator out there. a saying I also remember is " If you write some rules for it you are bound to be wrong" Hopefully Scollins can keep us informed one way or another i.e. putting a RC car on what ever part of the comet he is working on. A little bit of useless information for you all also....I live in NZ and went fishing with a friend today and my 9 year old boy in his boat on the Huraki Gulf (Auckland). Things were going well until my boy decided to drop my fishing rod in the ocean and away it sank in about 80 feet of water. I wasn't to impressed but we kept on fishing with other gear we had and were going OK and then my friend caught a line and said who have I caught and you wont believe this but the rod my boy dropped had a fish on it and up it came on my friends line so we recovered it and the fish was still on the hook and was a keeper.........now where could I share a story like that with you all. Keep smiling everyone
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I picked up a Mad Bison last year which was complete but unfortunately the motor is all gummed up . I could pull it completely to pieces to clean I guess but does anyone else have any suggestions? I had thought about simply soaking it in nitro fuel then using a compressor to clean it all.
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Blackfoot is not a great fit at all and if you run a hard body on this is changes the weight and tends to roll over more. If you dont have any cracks in the body look for some new or repo decals for it. It doesn't actually look that bad - perhaps the photo isn't doing it justice.
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read this http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56332 and this http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...58&hl=56332
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I picked up some extras on an auction win and they all appear to be from Frewer which is a New Zealand company that produced bodies, wings, underguards, wheels and tires I believe. If anyone can shed any light on what ethse parts are for I would be most grateful. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=103935
