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About Barnoid

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  • Birthday 02/07/1973

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  1. Yes yes yes to the steel A5 brace. It's a complete necessity!
  2. Sometimes - only sometimes, mind you - insomnia can yield benefits. :-) Now for a spot of paint!
  3. Looks totally sweet! Do you happen to know if you can upgrade to the two speed and lockable diffs on the sport kit?
  4. For 'out of production body shells in general', google Kamtec, or check out Penguin on eBay. Sometimes Blue Groove is your only option (I had to get an Avante 2001 shell from them; I couldn't find any UK/EU ones) but it's pretty expensive to ship body shells over from Canada, obvs.
  5. Good choice. I run those GooleRC motors (17 and 21t) in a few of mine (with Hobbywing 1060 ESC), and they're excellent. Good magnets, bearings etc. Plus, cheap :-)
  6. Part way through the restoration of Optima Mid number 3. I think I have a problem. God knows what I'll do if they re-release them - (apart from buy one - that much is pretty obvious).
  7. Porsche 956, and Hilux 3speed (the video of the kid being pulled along on his skateboard by one... ❤️)
  8. I do! The lowers are definitely different (and they don't necessarily correspond) - although that's not to say that any updated shocks the putative new Mid would run would have any problems with them. I run the new arms on a new build racing Mid I've made (brushless, LWB, slipper clutch, Thorpe internals etc) and they match up with new and old shocks with little conflict. Here is a pic of an original arm on my original Mid. It's slightly different to the rere Optima one, but not massively so. They're a straight swap in terms of overall fitment. The major issue (such as is it) is placement of the hole for the anti-roll bar attachment - but it's hardly a game-changer.
  9. They're pretty good! A little more bronze-y than the originals, But they're cheap, smooth as anything and they don't leak. What's not to love? :-)
  10. WIlly, are you running an original or a rere? In my experience, the front springs on the rere are way to stiff; as stock there's no sag at all. I understand that the original springs were pretty soft though. I've swapped out the shocks for old RC10 ones - with the increased stroke length you actually get some sag, and the handling (esp. on astro) is much improved. But other than that I echo what Willy said. Aftermarket front and rear alloy hub carriers are available from Yeah racing, but the originals seem to hold up fine (and the alloy ones are heavier, if that matters to you). I personally keep the original wheels for the shelf, and use some 2.2s for running.
  11. The lack of original bits is almost an improvement - there are loads of people out there with rere or restored SWBs. But there's likely no-one else out there with a buggy quite like this one. Chapeau!
  12. I think that might be the way forward in the future - although for now I'll be experimenting with the sleeve, as I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible! Cheers for your help ;-)
  13. I've bought some new shock mounts for my daughters' WT01; planning on running something other than the truly dreadful friction shocks on there - probably CVAs. Anyway - the new mount attaches at two points per side; the lower of these is the upper swingarm attachment point too. How do folks attach the swingarm? The original sleeved screw won't fit any more. I was thinking of using a brass sleeve for the screw to pivot inside, and then widening the screw hole on the new shock mount to the same diameter as the gearbox mount so the screw's not also rotating on the shock mount when the suspension pivots. Anyone got any thoughts?
  14. This evening I have mostly been wondering why the badword anyone would want to assemble a car using red threadlock. Aaargh! Bought this on eBay earlier this year, and I thought it was about time I treated it to some love. Kind of wish I hadn't. :-/
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