Jump to content

Barnoid

Members
  • Content Count

    76
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

64 Excellent

About Barnoid

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 02/07/1973

Profile Information

  • Location
    9491

Recent Profile Visitors

606 profile views
  1. The first option would be to see if you can get away without a fan (although I suspect not). Secondly, check that you can fit the motor in there without hacking away at the chassis upper plate - space is *very* tight. It'd work if you either got rid of, or carved away at the driver, but I appreciate that's far from ideal!
  2. Beware that the rere knuckles have a different thread to the originals, and the kingpins are different, with a different diameter surface, so require rere c-hubs or boring out the originals a little. Suspension arms are similar, and will fit, but don't use the same anti-roll bar attachment - this will need bodging. Personally I think the anti-roll bars were made of cheese anyway, and were more for looks than function! Can't help with the steering setup except to say that yes, it looks upside down, and I agree re the delrin spur diagnosis. :-) Pics when it's finished!
  3. Find the Kyosho Vintage RC group and look for Rama Chandra - I got mine from him; it now runs an AE slipper :-)
  4. Glad it worked out! I'm not sure if there are any direct new replacements for those bits, but spur parts do crop up on ebay from time to time. Another alternative would be to machine a longer shaft to install a modern slipper clutch - there are a few folks on Facebook who might be able to sell you one - but that's as much of a hassle (and an expense) as you'd imagine! My 'race' mid has an Associated slipper only so I can run brushless without fear of drivetrain death, but I think it'd be overkill if you're not planning on racing with brushless.
  5. What sort of Mid is it? LWB? SWB? Gear or ball diffs? Does the spur seem to move OK? Any melting plastic-y smells? Initial thoughts are that the spur 'slipper' (it's not really a slipper; it's too primitive) is loose, and needs tightening. Anything else will get time consuming, as it'll involve a near total strip down.
  6. To answer your questions - assuming the dampers are the same as the Porsche, the lower seals are non-replaceable, as fas as I can tell. It seems that there's a brass bushing with a groove machined into the inside of it, into which an o-ring is adhered. This whole assembly is then slotted into an aluminium sleeve, which is bent around to seal the bushing assembly in, and make the damper body. Unhelpful. If you're lucky it might still be sealed, though - but you need to be careful; those old oranges can have quite a bit of initial stiction, and overcoming this can break the (extremely fragile and impossible to replace) suspension arms. Oil-wise you'll need probably something like 20w - I've been using 30w and it feels a little over damped. Wheels and tyres - new tyres in that size are basically unobtainable. The wheels are unique. Of course! Thanks Tamiya. 👍 To get around this, you can buy Mad Bull/Vanquish 12mm hexes which will slot straight on, which will allow a much, much wider range of wheels and tyres to fit. 4 hexes will run you to around a tenner on ebay, and I got some cheap wheels and tyres for about the same price. Time will tell how well they last, but they're much, much better than the 30yo originals!
  7. I couldn't tell you, except to suggest that it might be to do with the damper throw for the Avante (and the rere) on the front, which is spectacularly short (around 7mm). The original springs were way too soft - a problem they addressed in the rere by making them extremely stiff - as stock there's no sag at all. Perhaps the shock shocks with softer springs just don't work at all properly? As an aside, I run my rere with RC10 front shocks, with the stock (rere) springs. There's more droop, more upswing and a similar overall stance. Handling is much improved. But that doesn't answer your question! (sorry)
  8. I *think* they're symmetrical. I'd appreciate you looking, thanks!!
  9. Hullo all! I'm trying to revive a friend of mine's Porsche 959 as a favour. It's in surprisingly good nick, all things considered - a little body shell touching up and repair, and some new wheels and tyres (the old tyres are dead, dead, dead) and I think it'll be a fairly straightforward fix. However, one of the ball joints on a steering upright is worn, and replacements are rather hard to get hold of. There is a C parts moulding on eBay at the moment for £150. (Hahahahaha no). Short of taking a punt on some 3d printed parts, are there any other options? Does anyone have a part worn (bot not totally ruined) one knocking about they might be willing to sell? Unlikely, I know, but if you don't ask... ;-) Thanks for reading this far! Barney
  10. Hi all I've got an RC4WD hilux back end I'm trying to make as scale as I can. This and the bruiser etc have a gap in between the bed hatch and the side panels that needs filling. Not ordinarily a problem, but this one is slightly out of alignment. Is there any way of lightly bending the plastic so it sits better? I was thinking boiling water might do the trick, but though I'd run it past the hive mind first. Thoughts anyone? Thanks in advance :-)
  11. 🤣 Literally anything anodised - especially if it's purple :-)
  12. I think to an extent it's a little bit like stereos. When you're a kid (in the eighties) and you're quite happy listening to Hair Metal on a tinny crock ghettoblaster, all is well with the world. This, I put it to you, is the Grasshopper. But then you get a little older, and maybe buy a cheap separates system, and realise that the difference is out of this world. You could never listen to the tinny ghettoblaster in the same way. This is the Inevitable Massive Upgrade. The Madcap, perhaps? The Super Astute? The (whisper it) Kyosho Ultima? It's incremental gains for ever increasing cash from then on, but that first paradigm jump is always the same. And there's a bit of you thinking - wouldn't it be coo alto have all the panache of the Grasshopper, but the handling of the Astute? badword yeah. I haven't decided what the RC equivalent of Hair Metal is though. Acoms? ;-)
  13. Love that. That rearward motor makes it look like it's got testicles like a male hamster, mind you :-)
  14. I acquired this thing this morning - a Lazer ZX ripe for a resto. Not going full box art though - mostly as I hate the shell. She'll get a modified LWB Mid one instead, once I've rebuilt it and jiggled everything around. The motor and ESC were *very* tired - I opened up the ESC (Tekin TSC411p, Tekin fans) to find loads of sawdust (!), cleaned it up and replaced the positive leads. Next was the motor. Stripped it down, admired the glorious purpleness, asked some of the good folk on Facebook about it, determined it's a Trinity Epic reverse wind, probably a 19t. Gave it a clean, reassembled it (for now - I'll sort brushes later). Powered it up and everything works. Pow. Next comes the car. Needs some new shock mounts, and reconverting back into a buggy from a touring/rally car (it came with a Kyosho Escort shell). Onward!
  15. I *loved* Lee's Jamie Booth hotshot. And he was super rapid with that Top Force too! I was somewhat disappointed to break a hub on my ancient Avante 2001, but I had a rere spare - hooray! Which then broke in the same place within 30 seconds. Gah! So, alloy one ordered. I also snapped a steering pivot on the Egress, but that's an easy fix from Tony's Tamiya Parts. And the reconditioned Trinity Ruby 16t motor in my SWB Mid overheated. Again. So that needs looking into. But apart from those niggles, I had a fantastic time. LWB Optima PinkMid is epically good fun, both indoors and on the carpet (which only needed indoor tyres by the end of the day), and the DB01r was a revelation outside. Super poised, stable and planted. I was actually considering selling it, but it's now sticking around - I'm planning on racing this year, and it might be a suitable candidate. :-)
×
×
  • Create New...