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About rc-martin

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  • Birthday 09/02/1970

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    Doncaster, UK

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  1. They're Tamiya, same as fitted to Dark Impact but in white
  2. Any shock oil will do but probably the thicker the better to stop leaking so much, the shocks on the Sand Scorcher don't really do a lot anyhow. Again, any light grease will do but don't go over the top on greasing as it just attracts dirt and then that turns to grinding paste
  3. What you have there looks pretty good, it's a very early Sand Scorcher as it has the screws on the front suspension castings instead of the later cast lugs. The wire on the front is the original suspension spring and it should have one on the other side too. Shocks where pretty terrible from new and leaked all the time, that's probably why yours are mounted upside down, it was a common thing to do to try and keep oil in them. The section of "shell" you're missing is the receiver compartment of the waterproof mechanism box. The silicone sealant should come off pretty easy and i wouldn't have thought it would hinder you stripping it down. Pretty much all the parts from the rerelease Sand Scorcher are compatible but the front hub ball joints are a different size on the rerelease. Yes, basic tools are all you'll need, Screwdrivers, 2.5mm allen key, 1.5mm allen key, needle nose pliers. Just use any standard degreaser for cleaning Would recommend keeping the standard motor you have in it, it should still be fine to use and a Hobbywing 1060 ESC. You will also need a Hump pack battery to fit in it as the normal standard stick packs won't fit. Enjoy the rebuild!!
  4. Hi, yes, the dog bones are too small, i was pretty annoyed as they're an expensive hop up. I've got some old thundeshot universals on the front now which are fine and on the back i have added a small spring inside the diff outdrive and a 2mm foam pad inside the hub drive and the shafts seem to fit ok at that.
  5. Some more pics of the progress so far.
  6. Getting busy again with the 3d printed HotShot, some modifications from last year and also some 3 degree toe in rear arms as well
  7. I have my original Wild One from 1986 and whenever anything broke on it I replaced it and kept the old parts in its box, when I restored it about 15 years ago I realised that if I bought a few more parts I would have enough to build a second car. There was a thread years ago about Junkyard dogs built out of spare parts. So now I have 2 Wild Ones, both of them have original parts on them, one as it looked when it was fresh built and one as it looked a few years later all battered. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=91629&sid=130 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=1052&id=130
  8. Finally happy (i think) with the front end now, fitted new lower arm mounts with the pivot point further out and changed the shock mount position on the main chassis. The front shocks now can clear the anti-roll bar so it can be refitted. I've also mounted the shocks on a bar fixed between the shock mounts so this should strengthen those too, I'll cut some bits of aluminium tubing to go over the bar so it looks a bit smarter. Also took the plunge and bought the MIP diff kit
  9. I'll try and get a video of it, I'm 99% happy with it at the moment now and am nearly ready for giving it a test run.
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