rc-martin

Some latest pics.

Any shock oil will do but probably the thicker the better to stop leaking so much, the shocks on the Sand Scorcher don't really do a lot anyhow. Again, any light grease will do but don't go over the top on greasing as it just attracts dirt and then that turns to grinding paste

What you have there looks pretty good, it's a very early Sand Scorcher as it has the screws on the front suspension castings instead of the later cast lugs. The wire on the front is the original suspension spring and it should have one on the other side too. Shocks where pretty terrible from new and leaked all the time, that's probably why yours are mounted upside down, it was a common thing to do to try and keep oil in them. The section of "shell" you're missing is the receiver compartment of the waterproof mechanism box. The silicone sealant should come off pretty easy and i wouldn't have thought it would hinder you stripping it down. Pretty much all the parts from the rerelease Sand Scorcher are compatible but the front hub ball joints are a different size on the rerelease. Yes, basic tools are all you'll need, Screwdrivers, 2.5mm allen key, 1.5mm allen key, needle nose pliers. Just use any standard degreaser for cleaning Would recommend keeping the standard motor you have in it, it should still be fine to use and a Hobbywing 1060 ESC. You will also need a Hump pack battery to fit in it as the normal standard stick packs won't fit. Enjoy the rebuild!!

Hi, yes, the dog bones are too small, i was pretty annoyed as they're an expensive hop up. I've got some old thundeshot universals on the front now which are fine and on the back i have added a small spring inside the diff outdrive and a 2mm foam pad inside the hub drive and the shafts seem to fit ok at that.

Some more pics of the progress so far.

From above

Getting busy again with the 3d printed HotShot, some modifications from last year and also some 3 degree toe in rear arms as well

I have my original Wild One from 1986 and whenever anything broke on it I replaced it and kept the old parts in its box, when I restored it about 15 years ago I realised that if I bought a few more parts I would have enough to build a second car. There was a thread years ago about Junkyard dogs built out of spare parts. So now I have 2 Wild Ones, both of them have original parts on them, one as it looked when it was fresh built and one as it looked a few years later all battered. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=91629&sid=130 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=1052&id=130

Finally happy (i think) with the front end now, fitted new lower arm mounts with the pivot point further out and changed the shock mount position on the main chassis. The front shocks now can clear the anti-roll bar so it can be refitted. I've also mounted the shocks on a bar fixed between the shock mounts so this should strengthen those too, I'll cut some bits of aluminium tubing to go over the bar so it looks a bit smarter. Also took the plunge and bought the MIP diff kit

I'll try and get a video of it, I'm 99% happy with it at the moment now and am nearly ready for giving it a test run.

Thank you! It's a great compliment to hear that from you, I'm a big fan of all your work too!

Already redesigned the front suspension so the push rods are attached to the bottom arm, may move the pivot point further towards the wheel also yet. Also moving the front shocks forward so the cantilever is moving in a more linear motion and this also allows me to refit the original antiroll bar.

After beefing up the chassis I decided I wanted to tackle the suspension, I'd ordered a set of aftermarket Supershot shocks but didn't really want to mount them like they are on the SS, I've always loved the look of Grahoo's HotShot and wanted to go along the same lines, with front and rear twin inboard mounted shocks. I tried as much as I could to mount the front shocks inside the chassis lowdown but the lack of space and poor geometry quickly ruled this out as a viable option which I think Grahoo may have encountered also and is why his car keeps the front mounted monoshock. The only other option was to mount them above the front gearbox instead, this worked out ok as I could adapt the front top suspension brace to hold the quadrants and create a shock mount that comes up from where the original anti roll bar bracket mounts are and still be able to fit a standard unmodified body. I also utilised the original pivot points but extended them like the Boomerang has, although I may change this again as I'm not 100% happy with it.

Yes, ran at the Junkies meet. The steering set up works great, so much so that I had to turn it down because I had too much! Discovered a few weak points which to be honest where quite obivious that it would fail in these areas but I've already addressed these issues in an updated version. The material that it's printed from is not ideal either so I'm going to change this also. Got another couple of ideas in the pipeline for it too so should keep me busy for a while

Cheers, my latest design uses a Tamiya M03 quick release battery holder but I've had to adapt this to use a modern square shaped lipo battey pack

Hi All, Thought i'd share with you all my project to build a 3d printed chassis vaugely based on the plans for a GRP chassis in a 1980's edition of Radio Race Car. At the moment i'm just using PLA but will probably use PET-G or maybe ABS for the final print once I'm happy. It will most likely be a work in progress as once I've printed a part I usually realise what I could have done to improve it and go back and adjust the design. The photos below show the basic chassis coming together and are already out of date as I've added some other features but haven't had time to take any pics yet. Started first by measuring the basic chassis/gearbox mounting locations Basic side section sketch in Autodesk 123D First print of many One of the problems with the HotShot is it's unequal length steering arms and the terrible bump steer it has because of the steering linkage geometrey, this is something I wanted to improve. I've seen people using various bellcrank type steering and decided that I was going to use one too. I had a Tamiya M06 chassis lying around so I've utilised the steering assembly from this and added the relevant mounting block positions to the chassis base print. Tamiya M05/6 Steering assembly Side and base Improved steering geometry Radio fitted

I have an original built SWB M38 and it has a AP227 Mk2 radio in it

Thanks, depending on the environment it differs, in open space probably about 1km in more built up areas that can drop to a few hundred meters

For anyone interested in my thread I've added a link at the top which will take you to my rcgroups blog where all the missing pictures are.

A couple of pics from yesterdays outing at Broxtowe Model Car Club at the Iconic RC meet.

Took the truck out for a run at the iconic RC meet yesterday at Broxtowe

I know you said you didn't want to go Lipo but if all you're after is some speed then a 3S lipo around 2-3000mah will fit in your battery space and be a lot less hassle than messing about soldering NiMh cells. You would probably need to change your ESC though. Hobbywing 1060 ESC's are great, cheap, waterproof and will take 2 or 3S lipos

Some pics from last Sunday's 1st round of 2017 Iconic Cup