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slink(2)

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About slink(2)

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  1. I've just been looking into this, as i have started buying a few bits from Hong Kong. There is a fixed, and accountable calculation, which runs at declared value, plus postage costs (the ones on the box). To this is added 2% import duty for the UK (yes, two), applicable for metal or plastic toys, motorized or not. The same figure also applies to kits and pre-builts. VAT at 17.5% is then added. Now the rub. Parcelforce (the UK agent) will then add 13 quid clearance fee to clear it for you, and collect the cash as a COD. However, I got a TB01 Enzo and a Nitro Daytona NIB kit from HK, and it cost me a total of 51 quid in duty / handling etc, which, as the combined was nearly 200 quid cheaper than UK, I didn't think was too bad. This is all detailed on the HMCE website (www.hmce.gov.uk I believe), or search under improt duty UK. Steve.
  2. Hi, I have a motor in a car which is labelled Reedy DS Race. It has no other information. I need to know its specs, so I can make sure I don't bake a new ESC I want to buy for it (discovered ESC+puddle=smoke). No information on Reedy website etc. Any clues, please? Cheers, Steve.
  3. Thanks for the replies. The suggestion of fwd/brake only ESC unfortunately won't help, as I haven't yet reversed into anything whilst actually driving backwards, it's just the model seems fairly tail happy, despite 4wd and adjusting suspension settings, and has a tendency to break away in fast corners, and slide out tail first... realistic, but usually expensive! I'll have a search through the website listed, and see if they have anything to assist, or I guess it may be a manufacture of a rear bumper to protect it whilst practicing on the track, looks lousy, but may save a few bits of plastic! Steve.
  4. The F201 formnula one chassis seems quite nicely made. The front wing gives the appearance of a sturdy bumper (mine has now had a fairly major argument with a lump of armco, and came off with scratches, once we had dug the car out...), and reasonable performance out of the box. However (and it's a BIG however), if it hits anything backwards, even very slowly, it breaks the track arm off of the rear upright. I am now on my 4th upright in as many weeks, and whilst this may not reflect favourably on my driving, todays breakage resulted from spinning on a wet track up a sloping "racing" curb. Has anyone else seen this problem? Is there a fix? Do anyone make a carbon, or even aluminium hop up for this part? Any info and ideas gratefully received! Steve.
  5. Howes in Kidlington (near Oxford) have always been good to me. Reasonable stock of kits, spares and hop ups, prices OK (good for a "real shop" rather than a cyber one!). Honest opinions, know their stuff, will try to help by splitting radio sets for example. Recently told me to go elsewhere for a F201 at a good price, as they needed to order 3, and didn't want them on the shelf as they don't sell well around here. Can't say fairer than that. www.howesmodels.co.uk steve@***linksted.co.uk (Remove *** to email me)
  6. Hellbelly, Thanks very much for the scans. The volcano is fully automatic as far as I can see, and I don't think it has the adjustments (it doesn't say anything about them on the box), but at least it gives me some clue! Sorry about the bounced email, it may be due to my "doctroed" email address on the sig line. Cheers, Steve. steve@***linksted.co.uk (Remove *** to email me)
  7. SteveH, DJTheo has it spot on - I have had so many sites pick up my email address automatically, and use it to spam me for ever more, that by putting *** it makes it an illegal address, so all mail gets returned when some robot tries to use it. The remove message is so a human can see it's garbage, and do the necessary! Sorry it's a pain, but I hate the junk mails! Steve. steve@***linksted.co.uk (Remove *** to email me)
  8. Pete, Thanks very much for the offer - if there's anything in there worth scanning them for (now that I have worked out which way to wire it up!), then yes please, I'd love a copy. If it's all just warnings like "It gets hot - don't touch", then don't bother! My email is at the end of this post. Regards, Steve. steve@***linksted.co.uk (Remove *** to email me)
  9. Thanks guys - you're dead right about hooking it up backwards! Isn't it just great when something comes with different colour wires to the motor, and no instructions! Still gets too hot though - I suspect this has something to do with being inside the TB01 dust cover, as it's OK if I run without the cover fitted. I think I may have to modify either the cover or the chassis to try to get some air to its fins, then all shoud be OK. I like the cover though, as the floor we run on is very dusty, so it helps keep the muck out of the car. Thanks also for the tips on which speedo you guys like best - at least I know what to look for next time! Steve. steve@***linksted.co.uk (Remove *** to email me)
  10. A can of worms this! I have recently become "re-interested" in the hobby, and have 1 TA01 Escort with the Tamiya 3 speed controller, and now a TB01 Subaru. As there was no radio with the TB01, I went the route of ESC, and was recommended a RC Line Volcano, rather than the similar price Hitec 560, by my local shop. The ESC is great, much more control than 3 speed, and brakes too. But, (and it's a big but), it has a huge delay between stick & movement (ie about 1 to 2 seconds before moving the throttle and the model moving) which means it's almost impossible to maintain a rythym, and it overheats. I can handle the delay between forward & reverse, that may save me some gear stripping, but why the delay between off & forward, especially if the model is already rolling? The overheating is due to the way it's mounted - more of that later (it is in spec for the motor fitted, and it's being used indoors on a lovely smooth, flat, airconditioned area!). QUESTIONS: Do all ESC's have this delay? Has anyone used the Hitec 560 - is it worth it, or should I save & buy something of a much higher spec / price? Has anyone successfully mounted an ESC in a TB01 without cutting the inner dust shield about, to achieve a much higher cooling rate? What is your favourite ESC, why, how much, and where from? Many thanks for any info! Steve.
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