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Prescient

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Everything posted by Prescient

  1. 380 motors are a lot smaller than the 540 motors and no where near as powerful, and certainly hamstringed in off-road buggies. They need an adaptor plate to fit and even then, they don't always due to pinion positioning with the shaft not necessarily being long enough plus different shaft diameter and pinion fittings. @Returneryou are best off cancelling the order and getting a suitable 540 motor.
  2. Chaps, don't be too dismissive on the offers and pricing on these, loss making activities and marketing often supports business growth within internal supply chains. Hence why there are often multiple storefronts for the same seller. It's essentially the Starbucks model. Equally when PayPal/eBay/Amazon run the 10%\20% discount days to increase marketing spend reducing in year profitability and tax liabilities. You can make too much profit. Often marginally loss making businesses with strong revenue growth is more profitable for business owners where they make all the profit at the start of the internal supply chain on an arm's length company yet still take salary and expenses from each business.
  3. 3s on the silvercan motors is the way to go. The advanced timing on the sportstuned over stock silvercan takes it out of comfortable spec on 3s. Try silvercan on 3s and you will virtually retain the same performance without so much heat and smell. If you use a torque tuned silvercan on 3s the additional torque over the sportstuned is noticeable in my opinion and more beneficial than a slightly higher rpm in anything off-road.
  4. Not all wheels are designed to fit all vehicles especially across multiple brands where offset, hub depth and hex spacing differs. Even inter-brand but on a different chassis or even the same chassis but different designation effects compatibility. Sometimes the cost and time effective solution is sadly that a different but correct fitting wheel is the better course of action.
  5. Wow that looks great, that @Prescient sounds like a great chap @Granddad Stinky really glad you're happy with it.
  6. Speed Passion 7.5T/5300KV or equivalent is perfect in these.
  7. Finally set up my remaining Juggernauts ready for sale. Middle shelf, wholly original Juggernaut 1 (got box and instructions still etc). Run once or twice 18 years ago. This has the original kit axles and gearbox not even the first care package installed. I have a new 1st iteration care pack and new second iteration full gear box / axel upgrade care pack for it. This has the period correct vintage electronics & MSC fitted too. Top shelf, new built Juggernaut 2. Fitted with a TEU-106BK and Tactic TTX300. Also got to meet @Granddad Stinkywho collected my vintage Super Clod Buster, hence the space on the bottom shelf.
  8. Lipos are perfectly safe most of the time but they are not inert. Lipos hold charge very well and may not even register a drop overnight which tangibly impacts on race performance. Issues arise where packs get damaged and are then charged and worse case charged unattended. This can be compounded if fake / un certified chargers are used, the charger fails and /or the wrong charging settings are used, including non-balance charging stages. Obviously a properly damaged or shorted pack can go up pretty quick in use too. Regardless I still kept my new and used Lipos out of the house (although as of today all ones left have been given to @Granddad Stinky). I left some new hard pack lipos in my conservatory once at our old place. Ambient out of sun temps hit mid-high 30s. All had swollen and broken the casing within 2 days. They got disposed of properly and pretty sharpish and it was a quick way to waste £££. I have always disposed of any damaged or bulging lipos too without trying to charge.
  9. Hmmmm packaged up another vintage kit to go off to its new owner tomorrow.
  10. @Nitomorcan't believe this was a 2016 build and you totalled it over a year ago. Where has the time gone.
  11. You can widen out the battery bracket using aluminium flat bar, folded and cut to length. Battery needs to be long ways not hump pack
  12. Yes yes, baton handed over, glad your having fun still. @Saito2the WT/WR chassis works better as 2wd and is much more cost effective. The independently driven dual axel set up does not perform close to a central box with drive shafts. Plus on dual motor, what you gain in the dual motor power is lost in additional weight; notably where you need a proper dual motor, dual ESC, dual battery setup to maximise the performance. This definitely effects agility and handling. 2WD with a 5000kv or higher motor and suitable ESC and 2s lipo is a great way to maximise performance on these.
  13. It's almost irrelevant on the WT/WR01 though as even with all the shock tower and tuned suspension options, the chassis design hits it's limit at 25-30mph and any speeds after that are survived through luck. 15-20mph off road is enough for these. You can do straight-line speed runs on a good road or smooth grass surface and hit 50mph+ Traxxas equiv do 30mph out the box and are as comfortable at 50-60mph+ in the lipo variants. Chevrons on the WT/WR get the most out of the chassis.
  14. You want the 135mm x 70mm chevrons like I have on this. I have run out of sets to sell now though sorry. These are the biggest volume 2.2s I have found. They come with foams. eBay or Hobbyking sell them. Typically £25 for 4. In my experience they out perform the more expensive competition. They come on rims which have the wrong offset but fit perfectly on Tamiya 2.2s. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-r-tm-1-10-crawler-monster-truck-135mm-wheel-tire-silver-rim-2pcs.html?___store=en_us
  15. @Man1c M0nk3y @topforcein There is absolutely no import duty, vat or duty related admin charges from Tamico nor should there be for any other shops based in countries in the EU. Tamico are German based. They are also really quick to ship and package very well. Fastest for me has been ordering Monday and getting Wednesday. Of course Brexit may change that but that's not impacting yet. Tariff free trading is one of the key benefits of a single market like the EU. I have bought thousands of pounds with Tamico as have many members on here. Tamico do charge a fixed ship cost by DHL courier to the UK regardless of size but it's not much given the saving. Always worth adding a few bits to the basket like spares, hi caps etc.
  16. You can still get the top force and for very sensible money. https://tamico.de/Tamiya-Top-Force-2017-Bausatz-300047350
  17. NiMH brushless with 13.5T and TBLE-02S is a good way to go for simplicity and using 8.4v NiMH packs makes a big difference.
  18. @DoubleThis could be a controller end point adjustment issue. Especially if the servo has more to go. Check the instruction on your handset. My TT02s have always been really sharp on steering. They will turn in the tightest circle they physically can.
  19. Superstock RZ laydown brushes, higher no load rpm slightly less torque so for touring car gearing. Superstock BZ/TZ standup brushes, lower no load rpm with slightly more torque for heavier duty use like off road or monster trucks. The BZ and TZ are actually identical motors but Tamiya gives their stats in different numeric measures and includes a dust cover with the BZ to try and differentiate. These motors although rated at 23T tend to out perform a lot of stock and cheaper mod motors even those rated at 15T. They are brilliant motors albeit expensive. The cost of the Super Stock motors + suitable brushed ESC (Hobbywing quicrun 1060) means that actually, it's better to go brushless unless you want all Tamiya. Consider a 10.5T brushless + ESC in the Blitzer. Even on NiMH that's a good combo, on 2s lipo its really quick. Alternatively with the 1060 ESC it will happily run on a silvercan or sportstuned with 3s lipo for a great speed boost.
  20. Turn the fan heater off when physically spraying though as the you get a lot of air movement and particles even if pointing away otherwise. Just have it on before then a couple of mins after. If you want to do a really quick job, PS not TS paint will give a fairly matt finish but dries way quicker to the point of light coat, hair dryer for a minute, rinse and repeat and within 30 mins you will have a finished body.
  21. Ah, Tamiya's finest copy of the EMaxx / TMaxx only much more breakable Looks good, really is a shame they never made a proper brushless version instead focusing on the TXT / Super Clod @Baddonglad you found a suitable Madbull @Jason1145that Lamborghini looks great, how much was it in the end?
  22. Hi, Dead easy if a runner. Use Tamiya TS paint as this contains some lacquer so you get a nice finish without the need for a separate clear lacquer top coat. No need to prime the body but do wash it with washing up liquid to de-grease then rinse and dry thoroughly. 1-2 cans of paint will be sufficient. Use very light coats, don't be tempted to over spray as it will run. With a light coat once dry you can run over with microfiber cloth between layers to remove the inevitable dust/hair/fluff that can land on it. Light coats allow you to use a hair dryer to enhance drying on a low heat setting but it's better not to. After 3-4 light very coats with 20 Min between each, leave overnight then repeat. Warm can/paint in cup of warm water before spraying. Spray booth, use a cardboard box. Bad time of year really unless in heated room. If you leave to dry in the cold though or are trying to spray in sub 10 degrees it can crack or ripple. You can go stuff it and in 1 hour: 1 coat light with full coverage - hair dryer hot - 1 coat bit heavier - hair dryer medium - 1 coat medium - hair dryer medium - 1 coat to finish all the missing bits and run the can out - hair dryer to dry. Then couple of hours later, Paint restorer to smooth off any runs, sticker and job done
  23. Depends how cold. Thermo set plastics on Tamiya rims are pretty robust. I suspect this is just because Tamiya + Jumps = Breakages It's a feature not a flaw
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