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Old Busted Hotness

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About Old Busted Hotness

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  1. Finished the Thing Shot with Canon PowerShot A630 at 2007-07-04 Shot with Canon PowerShot A630 at 2007-07-04 Shot with Canon PowerShot A630 at 2007-07-04 Shot with Canon PowerShot A630 at 2007-07-04 Shot with Canon PowerShot A630 at 2007-07-04
  2. The SL is a little big for an M-chassis, but it would be sweet on a touring car. http://cgi.ebay.com/Lexan-body-1-10-Mercedes-300SL-Gullwing-classic-190mm_W0QQitemZ330115947275QQihZ014QQcategoryZ34063QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Note: auction has ended, so this post complies with TC rules. He also does an Aston DB5 and 356 coupe.
  3. I had some leftover Depron foam and decided to whip up another unique project, this time using the Frog as a base. Settled on the 181 because I'd never seen one before. I narrowed some HPI stock car rims and BFGoodrich tires, and modified the front wheels to accept bearings. Blitzer headlights and VW emblem are the only body parts not scratchbuilt. Taillights are pink house-insulation foam. I'm still working on the ribs that cover the body. Once those are all on, I'll cover the whole thing in epoxy resin, sand it a bit, and it'll be ready for paint. The foam was left over from my Renault Galion build, which I built to haul my crawlers around I know it's ugly, but I just had to do it.
  4. And here's a 78 Scout, on a Hi-Lift chassis: Pro-Line's is modeled after the early Scout 800, with a different grille.
  5. Mine's all modified Tamiyas, except for the few restos (Scorcher, Monster Beetle, haven't put the Bruiser up yet) www.freewebs.com/goatworks
  6. So it's just pure coincidence that Losi includes white-on-black "506" stickers with the body?
  7. I'll admit there are better quality bodies out there, but none of them depict a Trans Am, or any second-gen F-body for that matter. For a one-man operation, I'm pleased with how it turned out. You have to realize that Somebodies isn't Tamiya, it's some bloke making these things in his shed. The body lines are fairly accurate and the finish is reasonable. He does a few unique subjects, like a Mk I Escort and late-model Bentley, also a Corvette Stingray. Don't know how long it's going to be before he's shut down due to licensing issues (I doubt he's paid the SCCA for the use of "Trans Am" (they still own the copyright)) so I figured I'd get one while the getting was good. Doesn't look half bad either [H]
  8. Ordered this from Somebodiesuk on eBay (no link per TC rules, but it was a 24.99 quid buy it now) and painted it up: Yes, it's a '78 Trans Am, the car I wanted in high school after watching Smokey and the Bandit on the big screen way too many times. The body comes with a blue and white flaming-chicken decal, which I used as a template to hand-paint the gold bird on the bonnet: The pinstripes are Pactra trim tapes, and took almost as long as the bird. Next step is to paint some HPI mesh wheels gold (with silver accents) and mount up the whole mess. Yes, it was horribly expensive for a Lexan shell, but it's sure to make a big impression so it was worth it. It's going on the drift car, so it will last a long time, unlike a race body that would be destroyed after a weekend.
  9. The ToeRag and Jero use the same chassis. You can build a 'rag as a short wheelbase by using the alternate suspension mounts on the chassis and cutting the driveshaft. Pajero body mounts are included in the kit.
  10. If you like torque, and money's not a problem, look into the Novak Crawler brushless system. I'm using one in my Hi-Lift and it's perfect. Plenty of torque, smoother than a brushed motor, and no faster than the stock 540 with nearly twice the runtime. If you want to use it with the MFU, add a Y-harness.
  11. I imagine your 1:1 daily driver would roll over "too easily" if you turned it full lock at full speed. You have to drive a scale rig like you would a 1:1, and pick your line carefully over obstacles. It's more involved than just bashing about. Suzy, be careful with your driving, I've just finished this one. Coming to get you! Stretched XC with a Chinese Land Rover body, converted to resemble Hamish Macbeth's.
  12. Building a crawler forces you to think, and make components from different manufacturers (sometimes they're not even from an RC car) work together. You have to use much more of your brain than with racing just to get the thing built. You don't have to buy a new battery pack every month to remain competitive, your tires last for years, and during a competition it's just you and the course- your run can't be ruined by an idiot who can't drive, unless it's you. The opportunity to make something that's never been seen before is also a lure. Try that with a touring car. Crawling is a niche for designer/builders rather than assembler/builders. It will surely go downhill once it gets popular enough to have RTR's available.
  13. I got tired of getting hung up on every little obstacle, so I decided to do something about it. Raised the tranny about an inch, and at the same time lowered the motor to maintain CG and body clearance. The motor is offset 90 degrees to the left. This required quite a bit of chopping to the case, which is sealed with silicone where I couldn't make the joints tight enough to seal, especially between the case and the motor. You can see how tight the clearance is here: Now I've 2-1/2 inches of center clearance, twice as much as before [Y] Relocating the battery and shift servo completed the install, which took about 8 hours start to finish.
  14. I reached the same conclusion with my 58036 Audi quattro. But the experience of running one is worth the hassle, and the disappointment. And that's not unthinkable. Unthinkable would be letting your neighbor drive it.
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