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  1. Coming soon... https://thebajabugmovie.com/
  2. Years n years ago Tamiya used to make some 2 or 3 part wheels where the rim section could be flipped to widen the track (I think) Pretty sure they were white 5 spokes but can't remember what car they were for originally Edit: These are them https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295137112709?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RPYY7N2XTou&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UfeleFAHRXy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Porsche version: offset +2 and +10 flipped https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394235869679?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=64iuHMS9TDa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UfeleFAHRXy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  3. This was up for sale a few years back Edit: Just found this too;
  4. If not, there's some pretty good pics here https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=137880&id=58636 and here https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=132709&id=49348
  5. Best not to run it with anything other than a 27t motor; MTronik ESC used to be notorious for going up in a puff of smoke if taxed. Back in 2008 they were hard to ID;
  6. I set my tank up on a Black and Decker workmate near the garage door - easier to clean up splashes then. For the trackball, I used a far smaller tank; an approximately A3 sized, Really Useful 18 litre The more film you use, the less the design gets distorted during the dip - The film is sold in metre lengths, you just cut off the appropriate amount. As I'm using a splash design the distortion isn't really an issue but, on cartoon character or logo designs, it might be
  7. The film isn't solid like a decal sheet, it's basically pigment printed onto a disolvable carrier film Once the carrier film liquefies, you're left with pigment and the sludge of the carrier film - that needs rinsing off the dipped part before it re-sets Take a look at this - At 9:00 you can see the pigment swirling around behind the dipped part The carrier film is PVA based so I skim the water with a few paper towels then drain the tank thru a plant-pot lined with a couple of coffee filters and some material from a cooker hood, into a bucket The water then goes on the garden plants.
  8. Been using midi controllers for photo editing for a while now and fancied something that didn't look 'repurposed' All the Hydro dipping kit came from https://www.hydrostyleuk.co.uk/ The most essential part after the design film is the Activator - this makes the transfer stick to the part Their stock films; https://www.hydrostyleuk.co.uk/product-category/all-hydrographics-products/hydrographics-films/ The other parts; a 48 litre 'Really Useful' box from HobbyCraft - cost £18 I think Drain tap was from Amazon, £6.50 Need the drain tap as the box will weigh about 40 kilos when there's enough water in it and I'm not sure it's too portable at that point - both in terms of whether I can carry it without spilling it, and whether the box is actually strong enough to be moved when full of water. The box is easily big enough to dip a Sand Scorcher or even a Clod Body That's pretty much it for kit The whole process is very simple: if you're capable of painting a hard body this is a piece of cake - My hard body paint skills suck but even I got a reasonable outcome These are test pieces, 'Speed Shapes The design is matt when applied, any gloss comes from top-coat sprayed on once the part is dried off The controller First, sand off the original screen printing Cover redundant holes and prime/paint. The transfer I'm using is black and clear, so base coat shows through transfer Painted the casing with Tamiya Plastic Primer, then top coated with X8 Lemon Yellow acrylic paint, thinned with X20A Thinners, airbrushed on Dipped casing - The dipping needs to be done a minute or so after placing the film in the water, so no pics of that, but plenty of Youtube vids on the subject Gloss top-coat And a trackball
  9. These just popped up on Instagram - Design concept by nobrainer.psd
  10. It doesn't look like their stock/website has been updated for some time; Tamiya: Although they list a lot, nothing 'new' is on there and a fair few older releases (Loads of CC-01 but no CC-02) https://www.racingtama.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=tamiya&category_id=0&limit=100 GMade is missing all the recent releases (at least 2 waves of new chassis) Axial: Again, really old range, Yeti 1/10 for one - that's been out of production for a while. I reckon they stopped bothering at least 2 years ago
  11. Job Lot - £30 posted, UK only NIB Wheels: FAV: FULL SET Rough Rider/Buggy Champ: FULL SET Sand Scorcher/Super Champ/Fighting Buggy/Hornet /Grasshopper: REARS ONLY NIB Scorcher/Grasshopper rear tyres Also, screw bag for 1 set

    Gmade GOM

    DIG is just an axle lock - used to be referred to as rear dig but the 'rear' has been dropped or just not mentioned for years. It locks the rear axle solid so the truck can make tighter turns but it also helps going over crests on a downhill as the front wheels pull the truck and the rear end is the brake Can't remember if the GOM dig is lock only or allows for undriven rear axle too From the old days when 56k dialup was all the rage
  13. Here's his profile - you can find topics etc he's posted in from there; https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/profile/1040-janderson/ Unfortunately, the links in the Tundra build thread all go to dead pages on tamiya.com Edit - found the links in web.archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20091224161252/http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=378
  14. Sorry, he's the other side of the county from me - Temple Cowley if anyone else can help?

    Gmade GOM

    Original/old release was countersunk screw into countersunk hole, this caused the panhard mount to break. Newer version is button head into a thru/plain-bore hole.
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