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  1. I'm guessing a Bullhead that's been autocorrected If that's the case, the series/parallel is a decision made when setting up the wiring - I don't know of any ESC with a wiring switch. If you're running parallel, just remember you need an ESC capable of handling 1/2 the turns of the motors (so, if running 27 turn motor, get an ESC capable of handling at least 13t, lower would be safer) I always used to wire 'em up in parallel, as series acted like a centre diff (all power to the free running axle) which was useless for crawling. Search for Clodbuster ESC (even if you do have a Bullhead) as there's probably more topics on the Clod For a modern options Tamiya make the TEU-106 BK https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-teu-106-bk-with-bec/rc-car-products/369338 Hobbywing WP860 http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=357&filter_attr=0
  2. Got a nudge through TC this morning about the anniversary of a project - 15 years shot past a bit quick This was when Clods were used a lot for crawling (my first TLT was bought the year before) and the steering links were the one thing that always got in the way The steering servos were mounted to the axle braces and the whole thing worked pretty good Unfortunately, it ended up with the ugliest body ever, a Proline Rock Pleazer Video, edited on a Spectrum 48k
  3. If you compare a 3mm self tapper to a 3mm machine screw, you'll see the shank inside the thread on a machine screw is a larger diameter than on the self tapper (the self tapper's shank is also tapered to make thread-starting easier) The noise is the plastic around the hole binding on the machine screw's shank. Unless you drill the holes out to the core diameter appropriate to the screw, you'll get this binding. There's a drill-size chart here; https://www.trfastenings.com/Products/knowledgebase/Tables-Standards-Terminology/Tapping-Sizes-and-Clearance-Holes Drilling the hole will also minimize the chance of the plastic breaking Greasing might stop the noise, but not the chance of breakage, as the machine screw is displacing more plastic than the hole was designed for.
  4. Found the original truck, article mentions 'Autographics Pinstriping'
  5. The sticker reminds me of the Parma/Bolink generic designs of the late 90s, possibly even Autographics
  6. UK store Modelsport has stock; https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=376225 UK eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-Nova-Fox-58577/174468160989?hash=item289f1cdddd:g:giMAAOSwtzVffXaD RCMart have back-order option; https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-1-10-novafox-buggy-2wd-w-esc-ep-58577-00037031
  7. The original beetle has a 2400mm wheelbase (according to Wikipedia) so it's only 300mm shorter than a Blazer - I thought they'd have been further apart than that With the Sand Scorcher's WB being 250mm, that makes it 1/9.6 if the wheelbase wasn't altered on Baja Bugs. Wheelbase-wise, at least, it's almost perfect scale with the Blazer (1/9.4 v 1/9.6) - Do they use the same driver head?
  8. Looking at the Blazer; Wheelbase is 2705mm on the '82 1:1, on the kit it's 287mm so that's 1/9.4 Width is 2007mm v 240mm so 1/8.4 Hilux (1:1 used Regular Cab, Short Bed as ref) 2616mm v 287mm wheelbase so 1/9.1 1621mm v 230mm wide so 1/7 I guess it depends which dimension you're taking as the scale basis. If you look at all the 257mm wheelbase 1/10 touring cars, none of them are truly 1/10 in all three dimensions as far as I'm aware
  9. 2 body options Updated chassis with forward motor 2 speed as standard Overdriven axle Inner wheel arch mouldings Preorder from Gmade - $319 for Military, $349 for Civilian Shipping to UK $50ish, plus high probability of import charges (20% +£15) Sold as kits, all electrics required http://www.gmade.net/gmade-110-gs02f-buffalo-ts-kit/ http://www.gmade.net/gmade-110-gs02f-military-buffalo-ts-kit/
  10. As usual, all the info is in the picture No other details yet, GS02 (No F) chassis is used on BOM and Komodo Crew New body option at least, although they did do a Cherokee lookalike as a body set here
  11. In a couple of years time, one of these will be cited as the actual documented reason (told to me by an ex-employee who I can't name for legal reasons) for the name change and, along with 'they smashed all the moulds' become part of TC's 'grapevine legends' I read somewhere the name change has very little effect on straight line handling, although the diminished rigidity of the side panels (due to shorter stickers) does allow for better airflow over jumps.
  12. I'm pretty sure it's because J17 can use either 3 or 5mm diameter LEDs, depending on the truck - Are there 3 and 5mm LEDs with black/white wires? https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300056523/300056523_MFC-03_Euro-Style.pdf R470 Highline = 5mm Actros 1851 Giga = 3mm Man TGX 18.540 = 5mm Volvo FH12 and Knight Hauler = J17 not used at all King Hauler, Aeromax and Globe Liner = J15, 16, 17 and 18 not used All LEDs will work in all sockets, provided you turn the socket on correctly from the transmitter or switch panel and you have them plugged in the right way round.
  13. You're quoting trade there. For non-commercial, https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty So VAT is payable on any goods not marked as a gift, once the value is over £15. Once VAT is chargeable, so is the clearing fee from Royal Mail/ParcelForce/Other Courier
  14. King Hauler? Released in 1993 The Lunchbox has a far simpler body, so it's less likely to get wrecked as fast by an inexperienced driver - Despite the WW2 having roll bars etc, it's still quite easy to trash the body, especially the windscreen surround
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