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Everything posted by TWINSET

  1. Just in case; Pic and video link from @Mokei Kagaku on FB Reminds me of
  2. I haven't been admin for over 3 years now - I wasn't spending enough time on TC so resigned. The only option for avatar adding (as far as I'm aware) is for Netsmith to do it manually. It's covered in the post ad456 mentioned.
  3. This is an international site, you might want to add a location or country to your profile or post
  4. Pics from Thundertech (the ones CPE copied ) https://www.thundertechracing.com/motormnt.htm This side goes to motor - The bolt heads sit in the recess, and the sides of the slots stop the bolts rotating Use the original brass tubes when assembling - they stop you overtightening the nuts which could distort the gearbox/axle casing and screw with the mesh They add about 5mm to the motor length too, so your motors might foul on the suspension arms. If you are sticking with 13 t pinions there is no need for the motor mounts
  5. No, sorry - haven't messed about with Clods for years. You'll either need a normal and reverse rotation set (if they're still made) or 2 identical motors with adjustable timing, then mirror/reverse the timing on the front/rear. Have a read of this;
  6. Clod pinions are 32p (32DP) with 13 teeth Because of the gearbox design, you can't easily fit a different sized pinion (you can just about get away with 12 teeth if you take the brass tubes [BM5] out) If you want to change the gearing any more, you'll need a set of these; https://teamcpe.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33_148&product_id=2040 These are always a good thing to fit too (B11 in manual) - the plastic versions break eventually; https://teamcpe.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33_167&product_id=2277
  7. Coming soon... https://thebajabugmovie.com/
  8. Years n years ago Tamiya used to make some 2 or 3 part wheels where the rim section could be flipped to widen the track (I think) Pretty sure they were white 5 spokes but can't remember what car they were for originally Edit: These are them https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295137112709?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RPYY7N2XTou&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UfeleFAHRXy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Porsche version: offset +2 and +10 flipped https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394235869679?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=64iuHMS9TDa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UfeleFAHRXy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  9. This was up for sale a few years back Edit: Just found this too;
  10. If not, there's some pretty good pics here https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=137880&id=58636 and here https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=132709&id=49348
  11. Best not to run it with anything other than a 27t motor; MTronik ESC used to be notorious for going up in a puff of smoke if taxed. Back in 2008 they were hard to ID;
  12. I set my tank up on a Black and Decker workmate near the garage door - easier to clean up splashes then. For the trackball, I used a far smaller tank; an approximately A3 sized, Really Useful 18 litre The more film you use, the less the design gets distorted during the dip - The film is sold in metre lengths, you just cut off the appropriate amount. As I'm using a splash design the distortion isn't really an issue but, on cartoon character or logo designs, it might be
  13. The film isn't solid like a decal sheet, it's basically pigment printed onto a disolvable carrier film Once the carrier film liquefies, you're left with pigment and the sludge of the carrier film - that needs rinsing off the dipped part before it re-sets Take a look at this - At 9:00 you can see the pigment swirling around behind the dipped part The carrier film is PVA based so I skim the water with a few paper towels then drain the tank thru a plant-pot lined with a couple of coffee filters and some material from a cooker hood, into a bucket The water then goes on the garden plants.
  14. Been using midi controllers for photo editing for a while now and fancied something that didn't look 'repurposed' All the Hydro dipping kit came from https://www.hydrostyleuk.co.uk/ The most essential part after the design film is the Activator - this makes the transfer stick to the part Their stock films; https://www.hydrostyleuk.co.uk/product-category/all-hydrographics-products/hydrographics-films/ The other parts; a 48 litre 'Really Useful' box from HobbyCraft - cost £18 I think Drain tap was from Amazon, £6.50 Need the drain tap as the box will weigh about 40 kilos when there's enough water in it and I'm not sure it's too portable at that point - both in terms of whether I can carry it without spilling it, and whether the box is actually strong enough to be moved when full of water. The box is easily big enough to dip a Sand Scorcher or even a Clod Body That's pretty much it for kit The whole process is very simple: if you're capable of painting a hard body this is a piece of cake - My hard body paint skills suck but even I got a reasonable outcome These are test pieces, 'Speed Shapes The design is matt when applied, any gloss comes from top-coat sprayed on once the part is dried off The controller First, sand off the original screen printing Cover redundant holes and prime/paint. The transfer I'm using is black and clear, so base coat shows through transfer Painted the casing with Tamiya Plastic Primer, then top coated with X8 Lemon Yellow acrylic paint, thinned with X20A Thinners, airbrushed on Dipped casing - The dipping needs to be done a minute or so after placing the film in the water, so no pics of that, but plenty of Youtube vids on the subject Gloss top-coat And a trackball
  15. These just popped up on Instagram - Design concept by nobrainer.psd
  16. It doesn't look like their stock/website has been updated for some time; Tamiya: Although they list a lot, nothing 'new' is on there and a fair few older releases (Loads of CC-01 but no CC-02) https://www.racingtama.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=tamiya&category_id=0&limit=100 GMade is missing all the recent releases (at least 2 waves of new chassis) Axial: Again, really old range, Yeti 1/10 for one - that's been out of production for a while. I reckon they stopped bothering at least 2 years ago
  17. Job Lot - £30 posted, UK only NIB Wheels: FAV: FULL SET Rough Rider/Buggy Champ: FULL SET Sand Scorcher/Super Champ/Fighting Buggy/Hornet /Grasshopper: REARS ONLY NIB Scorcher/Grasshopper rear tyres Also, screw bag for 1 set

    Gmade GOM

    DIG is just an axle lock - used to be referred to as rear dig but the 'rear' has been dropped or just not mentioned for years. It locks the rear axle solid so the truck can make tighter turns but it also helps going over crests on a downhill as the front wheels pull the truck and the rear end is the brake Can't remember if the GOM dig is lock only or allows for undriven rear axle too From the old days when 56k dialup was all the rage
  19. Here's his profile - you can find topics etc he's posted in from there; https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/profile/1040-janderson/ Unfortunately, the links in the Tundra build thread all go to dead pages on tamiya.com Edit - found the links in web.archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20091224161252/http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=378
  20. Sorry, he's the other side of the county from me - Temple Cowley if anyone else can help?

    Gmade GOM

    Original/old release was countersunk screw into countersunk hole, this caused the panhard mount to break. Newer version is button head into a thru/plain-bore hole.
  22. I just asked where seller actually is - if he's close enough I can get it for you

    Gmade GOM

    I actually wasn't a fan of this one - I'd built one of pretty much every GMade kit prior to the Gom but there were a few issues with the earlier version - one was the diffs would pop the driveshafts, another was the 2 speed gearbox not working great and having a slot for the shift mechanism which meant dirt could get in and be a pig to clean out, especially in the small slot for the selector slide (and obviously the panhard anchor issue above) The spring to return the 2 speed/dig rod wasn't very strong either, and that took a lot of fettling, it ended up with 4 shock o-rings on the shaft to keep it working By the time all this was addressed I'd lost interest in the build and sold it before running it properly - I don't even have finished-kit pics in my showroom

    Gmade GOM

    Go careful with the panhard link on the axle - Me and another member here both bust ours after going a bit mungo with screwdrivers; Looking at the manual, they may have remoulded the part now, as it calls for a button-head screw, not a countersunk, but just check in case you have an older kit Later in the manual though, the screw is still drawn countersunk
  25. PS6 is a very bright yellow, shadewise it matches a lot of 'yellow' parts (wheels are moulded in yellow, not painted) Camel yellow (used on the lexan top shell below) is darker - a bit more like Colmans mustard The lower part is bright yellow moulded plastic, but close to PS6 shade I'm colourblind too, but used to use PS6 a lot as it was closest to most 'yellow' things, especially Tamiya parts like wheels on Lunchbox etc.
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