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About 94eg!

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  1. Someone should make a double undertray to protect your Nimrod undertray.
  2. Im not sure it matters. If the undertray mates with the DS body shape, it won't matter what shape the chassis is..... so long as it's smaller than the body. You just leave the side guards off.
  3. Yes. They feature both over-current and temperature protection. No way it will melt down. If you're not going to run it on track, then don't give it a second thought. If you drive it, what you need to do is set your throttle trim so that neutral is just barely moving the car forward. Make sure its enough that the each still drives forward after letting off from full throttle. This is the only way to make it drive "normal" and prevent the auto-braking.
  4. I ran a P160F ina Dyna Storm rerelease on a clay off road track. With the re-re 14T pink motor it would run until the pack was dead. When I swapped it out for a real Acto Power 2WD pink motor, it would enter an over-current protection mode several times a battery pack. BTW CPRs suck to drive. Futaba ESCs (which is what these are) of that time had an auto-braking feature that made them almost unusable for 2wd.
  5. On the vintage Vanquish and Avantes the center diff is quite stiff. If I tried that same test I'm certain the front tires would slip and spin the same direction as the rear. I can confirm the vintage diff is different from these re-re ones. The internal parts aren't all interchangeable. Chances are the setup is different.
  6. I had a similar problem with a 12t and a Novak XRS esc. The XRS had some sort of current limiting built into it. Even with the smallest pinion, a DF02 had NO punch and couldn't clear a small double to save its life. My brother was so annoyed he sold the car.
  7. I use super glue on on actual race cars with edges exposed to possible impact. My 415 has all the edges filed-round, sanded, sealed, and polished like you explained. I also did the same for some hop-up DB01 shock towers. Rounding the edges really helps prevent snags. However, I personally wouldn't bother with chassis plates housed within lexan undertrays. It was never in the instructions of older Tamiyas to seal the edges back in the days of stamped carbon and fiberglass parts. Back then they had WAY rougher edges from the factory too (but not as sharp). So all my vintage parts are unsealed. I've ran a Dyna Storm and Vanquish off road quite a bit and never split a stamped fiberglass shock tower. And the Dyna Storm always liked to land wheels up. It's just added impact insurance. But definitely a lot of work to make look nice. Probably not necessary.
  8. In this chassis, both the motor and center diff are angled down toward the front of the car. This means the rear diff bearing is tipped forward to match. As mentioned previously, with the cover snapped into place it's all aligned perfectly. It does make setting up the pinion/spur mesh tricky though since it may appear good with the cover off, but then tighten up with the cover on. This is why modern cars almost all have exposed pinion & spur. Getting pinion mesh, slipper and ball diff setup perfect requires fingers have full access to locked down gears.
  9. It's really easy. There are tons of diy videos out there. This was the result of my first experiment.
  10. You can make them blue with baking soda (trisodium phosphate is better) a metal strainer and two or three 9v batteries in series. Very simple.
  11. The darker grey Ti screws like Tamiya's original Phillips/JIS ones from the 80s are grade 2 which is also referred to as CP (commercially pure). This titanium is light but also soft. Stronger than aluminium but slightly heavier. Most silver colored Ti screws these days are a tougher Grade 5 alloy also called 6AL-4V (6% aluminum & 4% vanadium). These are much stronger and weigh about the same as grade 2. Not as strong as steel of course. Titanium screws weight about 40% less than steel. Aluminum screws weight 60% less than steel (and are the weakest of all)
  12. From the first picture this car appears to be a MSX MRE with a standard MSXX top deck, and a standard MSX lower deck. Definitely has the 2005 MSX MRE rear bulkheads and top brace. This was before they were shaving the motor mount so it didn't touch the lower deck. And before the top brace was replaced with two separate hold downs to increase rear flex.
  13. Oooh! Blast from the past. So many memories rushing back.
  14. ....The important thing to remember is that these mid-height control arm cars are kinda unique. The arms are in-line with the driveshafts. This means they are meant to be run with the lower arms parallel to the ground (when fully loaded). This makes them seem quite a bit lower than normal. But because the arms are basically moved halfway up toward the upper arms, they appear quite different. Driveshafts are meant to run parallel to the ground for greatest efficiency.
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