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94eg!

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About 94eg!

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  1. The DF03 wheels should be fine. I run them on my old Vanquish with no problems. My car has the original 88 version of the center diff and front & rear ball diffs. I believe the newer center diff is still non-adjustable where you simply fully tighten the center screw. Loc-tite shouldn't be necessary but if you must you must. I'm running a 23T TZ motor in mine. I've even run it with slicks with no slipping problems.
  2. My money would be on bump-steer. Normally bump-steer wouldn't cause this problem under acceleration but the Hot Shot's unequal length tie rods cause different toe-in/out on either side when the front end lifts & dives. Under acceleration it lifts.
  3. Dyna Storm Evolution
  4. TRF415 MSXX Marc Reinhard Edition
  5. It's not so much cutting out the shape that's the difficult or even important part.....it's the perfect alignment of all the screw holes. Any misalignment, especially will cause the suspension/gearbox/bulkheads to be crooked. But even worse is any misalignment between the top & bottom decks will cause the entire chassis to be twisted (typically refereed to as tweak). But to get to your questions....the 1st most important part about the material is that you use the right thickness. Tamiya typically uses 3mm 2.5mm and 2mm thick plates. At the very least you want to match the ones you are trying to copy. Upper deck, lower deck, and shock towers are usually different thicknesses. If memory serves me correctly, the ideal tool for the job would be a scroll saw with a permagrit blade. You absolutely can use a dremel (That's what I do). Typically you make your cuts outside the lines and use sanding blocks to knock down and finish the edges. Please be aware carbon dust is extremely bad for your lungs (carcinogenic). You definitely need a mask.
  6. Are those hi-caps re-done in champagne gold (or just weird lighting)? If so, that's amazing!
  7. I ordered this 1:14 scale buggy for my son. For $95 completely ready to run it can't be beat. They also have a brushless version with all the hop-ups that's practically race-ready for $168 Brushed: http://www.nitrorcx.com/25c132-14-soar-buggy-green.html Brushless: http://www.nitrorcx.com/25c102-14-soar-buggy-green-brushless.html
  8. I like that staircase method. Looks very nice in the photos. Personally I cut thin strips of masking tape about 2mm wide and run them around the edges. Thin tape curves easily and provides crisp straight paint lines. Once the edges are laid down, I fill in the remaining open areas with various pieces of tape. There is no way I could get away with the liquid mask on a shelf-queen body. I do not have a steady enough hand to cut satisfactory edges. I am extremely picky. I also would never have the patience to wait 3 hours between each coat of masking film. I usually have all my layers of masking tape laid down in less than 2 hours.
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