94eg!

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About 94eg!

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  1. 94eg!

    Carbon fibre parts

    It's not so much cutting out the shape that's the difficult or even important part.....it's the perfect alignment of all the screw holes. Any misalignment, especially will cause the suspension/gearbox/bulkheads to be crooked. But even worse is any misalignment between the top & bottom decks will cause the entire chassis to be twisted (typically refereed to as tweak). But to get to your questions....the 1st most important part about the material is that you use the right thickness. Tamiya typically uses 3mm 2.5mm and 2mm thick plates. At the very least you want to match the ones you are trying to copy. Upper deck, lower deck, and shock towers are usually different thicknesses. If memory serves me correctly, the ideal tool for the job would be a scroll saw with a permagrit blade. You absolutely can use a dremel (That's what I do). Typically you make your cuts outside the lines and use sanding blocks to knock down and finish the edges. Please be aware carbon dust is extremely bad for your lungs (carcinogenic). You definitely need a mask.
  2. 94eg!

    Avante appreciation thread

    Are those hi-caps re-done in champagne gold (or just weird lighting)? If so, that's amazing!
  3. I ordered this 1:14 scale buggy for my son. For $95 completely ready to run it can't be beat. They also have a brushless version with all the hop-ups that's practically race-ready for $168 Brushed: http://www.nitrorcx.com/25c132-14-soar-buggy-green.html Brushless: http://www.nitrorcx.com/25c102-14-soar-buggy-green-brushless.html
  4. 94eg!

    Masking lights before painting.

    I like that staircase method. Looks very nice in the photos. Personally I cut thin strips of masking tape about 2mm wide and run them around the edges. Thin tape curves easily and provides crisp straight paint lines. Once the edges are laid down, I fill in the remaining open areas with various pieces of tape. There is no way I could get away with the liquid mask on a shelf-queen body. I do not have a steady enough hand to cut satisfactory edges. I am extremely picky. I also would never have the patience to wait 3 hours between each coat of masking film. I usually have all my layers of masking tape laid down in less than 2 hours.
  5. When I moved from a ta05 to a trf415 I broke less parts and they were cheaper and easier to swap out too. Also switching to race bodies cost a lot less than the scale bodies. They even lasted longer too and were easier to find identical replacements. The car handled a lot better and was much more consistent from race to race. I was a novice at the time of the changes, and I never progressed past the sportsman level. I'm more of a mechanic than a driver.
  6. [quote= Mokei Kagaku] As for the "cutting edge" design of RC-bodies, I think the difference it makes is mostly noticable for really good drivers only. For most of us, it's more about the placebo effect[/quote] I noticed this line the quote two posts above and wanted to touch on this specifically to kinda help everyone... Race bodies are not a bolt-on-and-go-faster item. They are a tuning option. The difference between a good driver and an amateur is that they understand what the different bodies and body-settings provide, and select accordingly. It is a tuning option that can alter the balance between the front & rear tires or even help increase low-speed grip or high-speed stability. It is in no way a placebo. For a mid to expert level driver, selecting the correct body WILL make the car go quicker around the track. Selecting the wrong body can make an over-steer or under-steer nightmare on the track. Most racers that run the same track all the time, stick with one body that works best for them. Protoform bodies I am familiar with: - Mazda 6 most rear bias (understeer and very stable at higher speed) - Mazdaspeed 6 most balanced for my 415MSXXMRE (good balance) - LTC-R a little front bias (light oversteer & less high-speed stability) - R9R a lot of front bias (most oversteer and I never wanted to try it)
  7. I guess my point was that when you are actually racing, it doesn't matter what body is on the cars. That is if you enjoy the actual racing portion. The cars move so quickly you cannot discern any scale details whatsoever. And the cars do not move in any way that could be considered scale to their 1:1 counterpart. So what's the point? If you just want cool bodies to look at on the pit benches, then I feel you may be missing the point of a racing competition. Even ultra scale off-road truck builds like the one pictured a few posts back look cool in photos....but in action they seem anything but scale. Since you cannot scale physics, they simply bounce and bobble around unrealistically. Would probably appear exceptionally realistic with a high-speed camera making the film slow, but otherwise they look almost comical in action.
  8. Cause nothing looks more "scale" than a 68 camaro pulling 9 G's in a turn.
  9. Cut some strips off an old decal sheet and lay them into the opening for the bearing as shown below. Then press the bearing in. Cut the remaining bit of decal that's hanging out of the hole. You can do both bearings so long as the strips are placed at the same clocking.
  10. Kit oil should be 900cst (clear). Options are quite limited for anything thicker.
  11. 94eg!

    Explain "on road" to me

    Without a track, on-road cars are boring. If you don't have a track nearby, then I recommend investing in a case of sidewalk chalk. You can find an nice smooth parking lot and draw yourself a track. Turning laps is lots of fun. You will learn tons of stuff. BTW: The smaller the car, the smoother the surface you will want for driving.
  12. 94eg!

    The correct way to say TAMIYA

    When you call Tamiya USA on the phone, I think they pronounce it Tu-Me-Uh. The old USA promo videos sounded more like Ta-me-uh. Either way it's "me" in the middle.
  13. 02H motors include that motor plate in the box. Not sure about the 01R though.