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94eg!

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About 94eg!

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  1. The rear dog-bones were the same on all vintage Avante Vanquish 2001 & Egress
  2. If you hold the can you may be able to tap the pinion shaft with a hammer to knock the end-bell off. I've done this with a Dyna Storm Re-Re pink motor that had a crimped on endbell. Paint flaked off the can where the two crimps were. If you do insist on trying this, maybe consider practicing on a similar motor like the Johnson 540J first.If you hold the can you may be able to tap the pinion shaft with a hammer to knock the end-bell off. I've done this with a Dyna Storm Re-Re pink motor that had a crimped on endbell. Paint flaked off the can where the two crimps were. If you do insist on trying this, maybe consider practicing on a similar motor like the Johnson 540J first.
  3. That's right. The tapered front springs on the Avante & Vanquish were required to clear the curved arm of the metal uprights at full droop. The Hi-Caps got around this by using a conical plastic lower spring seat that simulated the taper and allowed the shock cylinder to nest down inside at full compression. Pretty unique.
  4. Avante front shocks are very short and will only work if you remove the Vanquish front shock tower. Even the Avante rear shocks appear to be too short as the Vanquish rear tower looks much higher. Hi-Cap rears were also very tricky to setup to my liking on the stock Vanquish chassis. I remember having to flip the rear lower arms over and swap them left/right to lower the shock mounts (allow longer shocks). The shocks also required an internal droop limiter to prevent the dog-bones from binding up and breaking the upright while driving.
  5. Sears Lobo II. Had a range of about 10 feet. First real kit was a Kyosho Raider painted exactly like this one:
  6. Got mine in the fall of 1990 for $99 out of the back of the RC magazine also. I remember the shock I felt when I found the add while sitting on the toilet. Mine is still painted Testors blue spray (which flakes off with every crash) and Testors brush-on Gray canopy (clear windshield). I ran a set of grey-painted Turbo Optima wheels till I scored a set of used aluminized ones. Ran those tires bald on the street. Also ran bald a set of HPI Super RS4 rally tires & chrome Mesh wheels. Eventually fitted a set of Kyosho gold shocks till I finally got tied of their inappropriate compression and droop lengths (vanquish rear shock length is pretty unique). Next I pieced together some Hi-Caps later on when original Egress parts were still available. Since then I've fitted Ball race bell cranks, original Egress front & rear ball diffs, original Egress blue front upper arms, square-wire hi-cap springs, and fully shimmed & ball-raced drivetrain. These cars are so much fun to work on. Just take it apart and see what feels right putting it back together! You can always change it later. BTW: The Vanquish Drivers head on an Avante cockpit looks fantastic inside the body.
  7. Most inspiring image of a Terra Scorcher I've ever seen. Buggies are meant to be low to the ground. Wish there was a small front bumper option. That would make it look like a serious competition chassis.
  8. I would say the most evolved iteration of the Hot Shot would be the Terra Scorcher.
  9. I have an R. It's easily the best handling buggy I've ever driven. Highly recommend one. R RR or RRR are ideal. Even the kit stock Durga I drove was amazing with a cheap 15T motor. The main hop-up you want tho would be a set of steel 501X out-drives for the rear ball diff. When running ball diffs, the rear is typically set looser than front so they need to be more heat resistant. Also some extra 3mm washers/shims to tighten up the damper pistons between the two e-rings on the shock rods.
  10. The DF03 wheels should be fine. I run them on my old Vanquish with no problems. My car has the original 88 version of the center diff and front & rear ball diffs. I believe the newer center diff is still non-adjustable where you simply fully tighten the center screw. Loc-tite shouldn't be necessary but if you must you must. I'm running a 23T TZ motor in mine. I've even run it with slicks with no slipping problems.
  11. My money would be on bump-steer. Normally bump-steer wouldn't cause this problem under acceleration but the Hot Shot's unequal length tie rods cause different toe-in/out on either side when the front end lifts & dives. Under acceleration it lifts.
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