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shenlonco

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Posts posted by shenlonco

  1. I have a B4 here the rear shocks look shorter than the stock DI shocks?

    Also because i put a 20 tooth pinion it made the buggy a little faster so now it jumps a lot better because the wheels spin faster i guess when you are up in the air and it helps lift up the buggies nose more now.

    Shen

  2. Put a 20 ntooth pinion in now to test it out... I did the shock on the rear with the two hole pistons ...But there is just somthing about the DI it always feels like  the back always is bouncing up and down.. this buggy feels to me like a Toy next to my B4 the DI is very unballanced i feel...You go off a jump and the nose falls so fast it's not funny.

  3. I just put the motor in the other day and did not run a full batt through it so i will run it and see how hot she gets but i ran it in the driveway the other day for like 3 min or so and it felt like it was pretty hot......

  4. Just got my blue tube heatsinks (tamiya hop up) it comes with 3 and an aluminum motor disk spacer .

    I put the blue tubes on they look pretty trick hope they help cool this thing down it's a HOT runner!!

    I am running a B4 81 spure and a 16 tooth pinion with a trinity super stock motor..the grean color one monster i think and it ran pretty hot so i hope the heat sinks work!

    Shen

    http://www.rcpics.net/media/Dark_Impact_013.jpg

     

     

     

     

  5. Hi i swapped out the 3 hole and put in the 2 hole pistoins it seems a little better now..But i know what the real problem is on the DI the suspension don't drop down enough if you take the shocks off the A arms drop lower so i came to the conclusion the DI needs longer shocks or if you want to use the stock shocks you can make them a little longer if you can find another ball connector that's longer and threads on the shock shaft ..this would make the shock longer and give you more travel..

     

    Shen

  6. Hi i use a LRP they are tiny only about 1 inch square they fit perfectly with ease!

    Hi DCM71 i am going to redo my back shocks today should i use the pistion with the smallest holes? The back always bottoms so easy maybe this will be the way to go?

    THANKS

  7. One thing i noticed about the DI is how big the diff gears are and they are up so hight in the chassis that when you set the A arms level the dog bones are on a lot of angle....NOT GOOD!

    It's a basher just to play around with because of the high outdrives i don't think it will ever be a good racer.

  8. A fan ubove the motor will be exposed to to much dust and dirt i don't think it would last long.

    Also i been riding my DI maybe 3 times since new after i put the B4 slipper on it..All is great no problems but I feel this car is very unbalenced on any surface even when jumping off a curb a stright drop off the rear of the buggy always has a bronco effect always when driving you see and get a funny feel back from the DI like the rear of its always bouncing up and down in a funny jolting matter?

    I feel it's because the front of the car is so heavy and this is what always causes it to nose dive all the time... Any fixes to combat this problem?

    THANKS

  9. :-) I have 4 XC'S!! I have 2 VW regs and 2 pajeros 1 stock body and the other with a blackfoot body on it..

    They work about the same i trail run mine in the woods and the mountain by me is very rocky and ruff!!

    I would say for trail running a slightly moded stock suspension set up works better than a full blown link rear from my testings with the full link rear you can't climb as steep grad or drive on a hill on an angel with the full blown linked XC they flip to easy..

    I have a mod i do with the stock rear that works wonders and only costs about $2.00 to do!!

    I suggest moding the front also so you get a little more travel with the stock shocks by grinding some plastic off the front A Arm where it hits so the shock can drop lower also unscrew the front shock ends 2 or 3 turns so you get some more travel.

    this is done on all mine on the fronts but 2 of my XC's have stock rears with my mod i talked about and 2 have full blown linked rears ...And i like the stock set up in the rear with my mod better for trail rock running it just works better.

    Look through here you will find lots of XC stuff But most all my good videos got erased off rcpics.net when they upgraded there surver!!! I got some good vids just no where to post em!

    http://www.rcpics.net/member/Shenlonco

    PIC'S OF EASY MOD WITH INFO LOOK UNDER PHOTO!

    http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=65685

    http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=65684

    http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=65683

    http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=65687

    http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=65688

  10. My B4 slipper unit arived today my bearings would not fit on the shaft i had to put it in my dremel tool and use sandpaper and sand a little off where the bearing went on to get it to work properly... I think mine was just a bad one as where the shaft was ground to size it looked like it had chips out of it like as if the bit they used to cut it was dull....

    Hopefully they all are not like mine!

     

    Shen

  11. Hi DCM71 I ordered the slipper unit $37.00 US $ expensive in deed!

    Just wanted to know does the stock gear cover unit fit still?

    Also i hear guys saying you can buy the tamiya one for alot less and just drill out the center of the B4 spure gear just a little and it should work with the tamiya slipper unit.

    Thanks

    Shen

  12. I can well recommend getting the TA-03 universal driveshafts to fit to the front of the XC. No worries about dogbones popping out with those fitted.

    Even so with the universals when you drop the front A arms lower to a certain point the ends of the pins that go through the drive shaft or dog bones at the top of the gear box cups they sam to almost come out of the grove they ride in... You can only drop those A arms so much.

  13. The only way to get a little more down travel is to grind the C hub carrier.. I did this but i found a better way on my last XC i bought i ground the inner side of the A arm where the C hub gets held on.

    This way is better because it makes the front suspensin much stronger now than when you grind the C carriers.

    I did this with the stock front Oil shocks on the VW and i just unscrewed the bottom ball cup on the shock shaft a couple turns and this made the front A arms drop lower.

    Funny thing is you can't really make them drop much lower the dog bone shafts right now are almost at there limit it looks like if you lower it more they will pop out when you turn...

    Also i ground a little off the C carriers where the steering knukle hits them this is a great mod it makes you get better steering so you can turn in a much sharper radious.. Grind just enough off so that the steering ball cup on the steering knuckle at full turning hit's up against the back side of the A arm.

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