
raemin
Members-
Content Count
768 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Community Reputation
0 NeutralAbout raemin
-
Rank
Member
Profile Information
-
Location
186
Recent Profile Visitors
1782 profile views
-
In the past I used yo have some "look alike" connectors compatible with the good old Tamiya connector. These were soldered (not crimped). Any hint on where I can find these again?
-
Found it in the club! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=126431&sid=33208 Ishimasa super 9 with chevron body. Time to find some tires!
-
raemin started following Multiplex Cobra 1/12 nitro pancar ?
-
I have been away for quite a few years... Getting back to the hobby with this strange "multiplex beast" offered by my brother under the explicit condition to race it against one of his own pan-cars. Any idea on the manufacturer that was providing these cars to multiplex? https://servimg.com/view/12350580/28 https://servimg.com/view/12350580/27 The form factor is really interesting and, the ball-raced / aluminium / brass frame looks nice. Multiplex had sold some Playtron rebranded buggys, but this one seems from another source. Thanks!
-
On the paper it looks a "lot" better as it comes with proper timing while the standard 540s do have zero timing, its efficiency should also be slightly enhanced as the the most balanced motors are close to 21 turn.
-
I have one in my showroom : Kyosho landjump / datsun fairlady
-
The 02H was made by johnson and not the same length as the mabushis.
-
Any charger would do the trick, you may try the xpeak (sold under various brands), it can charge any batteries and do cyclings (nice for your radio batteries). Personnally I do have a schulze but the budget is slightly more important
-
TZ (T=Torque)/ RZ(R=rpm) are the same motor one with standup brushes, the other one with laydown brushes. Laydown brushes are a nice way to legally increase timing of a stock endbell (fixed 24 degrees). The point is that with big turn engines (>20 turns), rpms is low but torque is massive. By adding more timing you get more rpm, less torque, less efficiency in short an engine that is more homogeneous. In any case at the end of the day you won't see much difference except in a straight line...
-
Actually the dynatech 01R hop up armature was a suitable to the technigold: it offered more rpms / less torque. This armature had much less weight (flat sides). As for the techni series, the armature and brushes can be exchanged without any problems. Note however that the beefy one was the technigold, not the other two theat were much more mild.
-
The blue acto power can be found new for aroung $50. Great motor.
-
Do a search on google for glow plug mini howto. I remember finding there lotsd of precious tips. If you can't sort out your engine porblem, as a last resort, try cold plug / high nitro / richer than factory / lot of gas in the engine / plug unscrewed by 1 or to turn / fully charged plug batery / electric starter . And go from there
-
My rarest is definitively my DWA blu2 quarter scale. with a 20000Frf price tag this one did not make it in the french market:) As for the one I most desire I would say the raco indy with all the fancy options : real pressure tires, brake disc and of course the real v8 twin cam engine... A picture is worth thousands words, so see for yourself:
-
If you're tight on budget, try an old tekin dyno. This is the one I am using, the load is produced by a slave motor (not as good as a flywheel), but unlike cheap dyno the slave motor is only used for load not for measures which are made out of separate sensors. If you want accurate figures you want a tekin "balanced" slave motor (they do still stock a few ones for $10 or so). The other draw back is the display output that shows the age of the dyno... By default the dyno just detect the best efficiency load and will deliver figures based on that load, for any other figures you have to adjust the load and quote the numbers. If you want a 100 point curve it may take you some time... On the big plus it is extreemly durable, you can get a used one for $120, and when it says a motor is bad it is definitively a bad motor... As said, the other alternative is a few sets of calibrated props
-
quote:Originally posted by kontemaxI cut the Carbon fiber with dremel and circular stone discs, then finish the job with small files. id="quote">id="quote">Carbon dust is very dangerous for your health...